Author Topic: My revel type ix u-boat (Read 40083 times)

Senormodeler · « **on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 00:09 »

Hey all,

I thought I would post a few pics of my build so far. I've painted the base coats and I'm beginning to weather.

The next few steps I'll take are to apply filters to the hull, do more rust washes on the tower, apply future and decals, then do more washes. It's a great kit.

falo · « **Reply #1 on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 07:09 »

Hi Senormodeler,

first of all, welcome aboard. Thanks for sharing the pictures. I like the painting especially the deck painting. Looking forward for more pictures to come.

Regards
Falo

SG · « **Reply #2 on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 07:30 »

Very, Very Well done Senormodeler!!
A very clean build: weathering is great and yes, the deck is very well rendered, especially the metal sections.The boat is very convincing (clever how you managed to do the flooding hole slats

). Top marks, Congrats!!

Senormodeler · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 09:10 »

Thanks, Falo and SG. I've been following this forum for a while, studying all the VII builds. One of the biggest takeaways for me was the use of artist oils to make one's own filters and washes as an alternative to buying MIG or AK-interactive products. Not to take anything away from those filters/washes, but the results I'm getting from gamblin oils and odorless mineral spirits are really great. Especially on the deck.

Another quick pic with the deck:

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 10:58 »

Welcome Senormodeler

Liking the tower, whose photoetch have you used?

Regards
Jon

Senormodeler · « **Reply #5 on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 11:10 »

Kremin,
Thanks! The PE sets are the 3 sets that Eduard put out. I thought about going with Oto's PE deck, but I decided to just proceed without it. This was my first experience using PE so I made a ton of mistakes, including applying certain PE pieces way before I should have, and then subsequently knocking them off and losing them.

I also started off the build by attaching the vent hole PE grills directly to the the hull without drilling out the vents, and without trying to make the PE flush with the rest of the hull. Later, when I learned more, I went back and pulled some of those PE pieces off and cut out that area of the hull. Then I reapplied the PE and smoothed the edges with apoxie sculpt. Ugh.

Basically this is my second model since I was 12 years old. I'm 40 now. Really enjoying the hobby -- always new I would re enter that world.

S

falo · « **Reply #6 on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 14:39 »

Senormodeler,

liking the pre shading on the conning tower too.

I know what you mean regarding to pe parts: This awful noise when a very, very small pe part pinging away from your tweezer ;-)

Regards
Falo

Senormodeler · « **Reply #7 on:** 10 Jun , 2014, 23:03 »

Ha! Yup.

Re- preshading: I did some basic preshading on the tower as you saw. On the hull I did reverse preshading. On the upper hull I used a dark grey to preshaded the raised details. But on the lower hull, below the waterline I used a light grey to preshade. Since I was painting the lower hull Schiffsbodenfarbe III Grau, I wanted the raised details to look lighter. As though they were fading a bit.

I read about this method in an article in FSM so I thought I would give it a shot. You can almost see the effect in this shot:

VonStigler · « **Reply #8 on:** 15 Jun , 2014, 17:44 »

Beautiful boat, you should be very proud. Thanks for sharing, it is inspiring to see a type IX coming out of the slipway.
Regards,
Brian

Senormodeler · « **Reply #9 on:** 15 Jun , 2014, 21:29 »

Thanks, Brian! I'm really loving the build. I'm out of town at the moment, but when I get back my plan is to glue the deck to the hull, and then continue weathering the tower and the hull. I've never done any of this before so I'm just experimenting based on what I've learned from you guys on this site and some other sites. I'm not new to painting, but I've never done anything like this. It's really great.

Senormodeler · « **Reply #10 on:** 16 Jun , 2014, 13:11 »

I'm gonna crew up my type ix with a couple of these guys.

I have no idea how to prime and paint them. Will have to research.

SG · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 Jun , 2014, 08:23 »

Excellent choice!!!
I'd suggest priming them with Krylon matte finish (http://www.krylon.com/products/matte-finish/), it grips on anything and better than any other primer. Here's an excellent review about it from an outstanding modeller: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=154931
Either acrylics or enamels for painting them. It depends on what technique you're most familiar with.
Cheers!
SG

Senormodeler · « **Reply #12 on:** 19 Jun , 2014, 06:44 »

Applied one of the AMP decals today. Using lots of microsol to get it to settle down. It still isn't settling down over the rivets like I want them to. Continuing to load on the microsol. Any suggestions?

falo · « **Reply #13 on:** 19 Jun , 2014, 16:12 »

Hi Senormodeler,

do you also use a the soft solution of Microsol? Please look at this Youtube clip. The guy explains decal setting with Microsol very well and he has also the rivet problem on the fuselage of the aircraft model.:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Jv89DU9c3E

Hope it works.

Regards
Falo

Senormodeler · « **Reply #14 on:** 19 Jun , 2014, 18:40 »

Thanks falo! I'll take a look.

Meanwhile, I'm starting to weather this beast.

Rokket · « **Reply #15 on:** 26 Jun , 2014, 02:03 »

Very nice, and again, esp the deck. Good rust in the last shot, not too much. Well done!!!

Senormodeler · « **Reply #16 on:** 30 Jun , 2014, 08:06 »

I'm slowly starting to weather the hull. I used a black wash all over the hull and then a light wash below the waterline to fade the paint. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but here's the port side bow:

I've been researching different weathering techniques. I did some practicing on the anchor.

SG · « **Reply #17 on:** 01 Jul , 2014, 08:18 »

Congrats for the results achieved. The anchor is very convincing!!!

Senormodeler · « **Reply #18 on:** 01 Jul , 2014, 11:22 »

Thank you, SG!

VonStigler · « **Reply #19 on:** 01 Jul , 2014, 18:38 »

Looks awesome! I can't wait to see the finished beauty.

Rokket · « **Reply #20 on:** 02 Jul , 2014, 02:28 »

absolutely!

Senormodeler · « **Reply #21 on:** 02 Jul , 2014, 08:45 »

As I'm slowly weathering the bottom hull on the port side, I masked off the starboard side to work on the upper hull and did some initial discoloration filtering.

Also attached the screws after letting them soak in vinegar and salt for 48 hours.

falo · « **Reply #22 on:** 02 Jul , 2014, 14:12 »

Hi Senormodeler,

that reminds me that I give my propellers the same treatment a year ago or so (typeseven). Stored the two propeller in a small jar and now I can't find them. Will start a quest soon because I'am curious how they will look by now.

Regards
Falo

P.S.: Thanks again for this thread

Senormodeler · « **Reply #23 on:** 02 Jul , 2014, 15:18 »

Wow. They're definitely going to look war-torn!

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #24 on:** 03 Jul , 2014, 07:51 »

Hi falo

Or you may just have a jar with brassy coloured vinegar

Regards
Jon

falo · « **Reply #25 on:** 03 Jul , 2014, 10:27 »

Hi Senormodeler, hi Cap,

I will start my quest tomorrow and post a pix if I find the propellers. Stay tuned, Gentlemen!

Regards
Falo

Senormodeler · « **Reply #26 on:** 04 Jul , 2014, 08:24 »

I've done some more weathing on the hull. On the port side I've been focusing below the waterline and on the starboard side i focused on above the water line. Once I get back from vacation I'll reverse things.
Here's the aft starboard side above the waterline. On both sides you'll see I had trouble with the decal. I think i'll just need to blend it in better with oils. Not sure though.

Here's the bow port side, with most of the work done below the waterline. Again, I'm disappointed in how the decal turned out (although it's not as bad as the previous one) and I'm hoping to be able to blend it in more with weathering. I'm trying to decide if I should pull back on the rust here. I don't think I'll push it any further. Any thoughts?

dbauer · « **Reply #27 on:** 04 Jul , 2014, 09:38 »

Hi!
I am enjoying your work. As far as the decals, what works for me is to brush the area with Future wax first, when dry I set the decals in with Micro set. Then go over it again with the Future. When I am through with weathering I spray the entire hull with Testors Dulcote. This alsways works for me. The decal film doesn't even show after that.
Regard,
Dan

Senormodeler · « **Reply #28 on:** 04 Jul , 2014, 11:01 »

Hey Dan,
Those are the steps I took but still had problems. I sprayed with future. Applied micro set. Then Micro sol. There was some hazing when I applied micro sol. I thought the future was completely dry but maybe it wasn't. I applied more future and most of the hazing went away. But you can still see the decal film. Do you think the film will disappear once I spray dulcote?

Jake

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #29 on:** 04 Jul , 2014, 11:28 »

Hi senormodeler

Are the vents around the torpedo tube doors brass fret or cutout, (they look a lot better than mine)

Regards
Jon

Senormodeler · « **Reply #30 on:** 04 Jul , 2014, 12:11 »

Hey Jon,
Not sure what you mean by fret or cutout. They are PE parts. I'm embarrassed that you can see the edge of the PE. I attached this part when I was at the beginning of my learning curve, and I didn't make it flush with the plastic. I've learned a lot since I started this model, but some of my early mistakes (i.e. the decals) are the giveaways that I'm pretty noob-ish.

Jake

dbauer · « **Reply #31 on:** 04 Jul , 2014, 14:02 »

Hi Again!
Yes it should. You are correct in your method. I usually wait a day or more to let the Future dry. I am thinking the Dulcote should hide the film. If not, I would try the Future again. If anyone else has a comment or idea, please step in.
Dan

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #32 on:** 05 Jul , 2014, 04:14 »

Quote from: Senormodeler on 04 Jul , 2014, 12:11

Not sure what you mean by fret or cutout. They are PE parts. I'm embarrassed that you can see the edge of the PE.

Hi Jake

sorry, my bad, fret = brass fret or PE

Don't worry about the edge, I thought you have done it deliberately, see attached photo of U 534

Regards
Jon

Senormodeler · « **Reply #33 on:** 05 Jul , 2014, 10:23 »

Cool pic. I feel better about my work now.

Next step for me I think is I repeat the work I've done here on the rest if the sub. I might try siara's technique of diluting white oil paint in lighter fluid and flicking this onto the sub. I love the effect he achieved. I'll try that next.

J

falo · « **Reply #34 on:** 12 Jul , 2014, 06:14 »

Hi Senormodeler, hi Cap,

found the propellers. As I said the two brass propellers were stored for more than a year in vinegar and salted water.

Regards
Falo

Senormodeler · « **Reply #35 on:** 12 Jul , 2014, 07:41 »

So good. I should have left mine in for a year.

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #36 on:** 12 Jul , 2014, 11:28 »

Hi All

Wow no paint required

My VIIs as well as my IX propellers are getting dunked today.

Regards
Jon

David83 · « **Reply #37 on:** 14 Jul , 2014, 01:32 »

Hello

I wanted to ask which Raboesch Propeller are the right ones for the Typ VII ?
Maybe product key will be very helpfull .

Thanks

wbr David

falo · « **Reply #38 on:** 14 Jul , 2014, 04:38 »

Hi David,

please follow this link:

http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/prog1.shtml

Regards
Falo

OldNoob · « **Reply #39 on:** 15 Jul , 2014, 22:57 »

Such amazingly talented modelers on this site.

OldNoob · « **Reply #40 on:** 16 Jul , 2014, 00:01 »

ARG!!! you guys are a bad influence!

Stumbled upon a coupon and ended up buying one for $60 dollars.

bill_c · « **Reply #41 on:** 16 Jul , 2014, 09:18 »

Aging brass PE is easy with Birchwood Casey Brass Black:

http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Brass-Touch-Up-3-Ounce/dp/B0000C514O

Senormodeler · « **Reply #42 on:** 31 Jul , 2014, 16:39 »

Haven't posted in a while because of other business. But I have been doing some more weathering on the u-boat.

OldNoob · « **Reply #43 on:** 31 Jul , 2014, 22:44 »

Quote from: Senormodeler on 31 Jul , 2014, 16:39

Haven't posted in a while because of other business. But I have been doing some more weathering on the u-boat.

WOW!!!!! Thats awesome man!!

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #44 on:** 01 Aug , 2014, 14:54 »

Hi Senormodeler,

Very nice weathering

Regards
Jon

Senormodeler · « **Reply #45 on:** 01 Aug , 2014, 15:45 »

Thanks for the comments, Jon and oldnoob!

falo · « **Reply #46 on:** 02 Aug , 2014, 02:00 »

Hi Senormodeler,

great painting job! IMO it looks very realistic. Did you use the salt- or hairspray-technic to wheather the hull? The shown effects rings a bell ...

Regards
Falo

Senormodeler · « **Reply #47 on:** 02 Aug , 2014, 23:28 »

Hey Falo,
I did not do any salt or hairspray work. I did so some paint fading by diluting some white oil paint in lighter fluid and then I splattered that onto the hull. The lighter fluid dries very quickly which leaves irregular shapes of white. Besides that I just used washes and filters made from oil paints and mineral spirits.

Make sense?
S

falo · « **Reply #48 on:** 03 Aug , 2014, 01:37 »

Hi Senormodeler,

It makes sense because it looks so good!

Regards
falo

VonStigler · « **Reply #49 on:** 03 Aug , 2014, 07:23 »

It does look spectacular! I have really been enjoying this build, keep up the good work.
Regards,
Brian

SG · « **Reply #50 on:** 03 Aug , 2014, 09:50 »

Hi Senormodeller, i was on holiday and couldn't see the pictures with an adequate definition: the weatherng effect you achieved is simply stunning. I agree with all the positive comments done by the others and i am looking forward to seeing the model completed!
Cheers!
SG

Senormodeler · « **Reply #51 on:** 03 Aug , 2014, 15:10 »

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm liking how it's turning out. It's my first attempt at weathering really. Just trying things out that I've read about online.

Senormodeler · « **Reply #52 on:** 06 Aug , 2014, 18:20 »

Currently I'm trying to add a little bit of a scum line along the water line. This would be a little bit of algea build up where the antifouling paint has been the most worn away. The first two photos were taken after I applied the blue-green algae. I think I may have overdone it. So I pulled it back with some AK Interactive Streaking effects for winter vehicles (third picture). I may need to do more of this to bring it back further. But it seems to be adding a good effect.

Feedback welcome.

dbauer · « **Reply #53 on:** 09 Aug , 2014, 18:44 »

Hello!
The third attempt looks great! I would hold back on the rust below the water line. With a vessel under way, not too much of a chance for rust to form unless it is sitting still for a lengh of time. Some rust may be present sure but not the same as the upper Hull and Trum. Super work!
Regards,
Dan

Senormodeler · « **Reply #54 on:** 09 Aug , 2014, 23:35 »

Thanks, Dan. That's very helpful and makes total sense. I was adding some rust to the lower hull but just not streaking it downward. But I think I'll pull that back a little and definitely won't go any further.

Senormodeler · « **Reply #55 on:** 01 Sep , 2014, 22:36 »

Time for an update.

Lately I've just been adding layer upon layer of weathering to the hull with Gamblin artist oils. I don't know where the finish line is but I feel like i'm getting close. I've been doing some sponge chipping as well. Here are a few pics:

As I'm looking at these photos, I'm realizing that you can't really see all the detail I'm putting into it. They kind of look the same as the last group of photos i posted. Oh well.

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #56 on:** 02 Sep , 2014, 14:21 »

Hi Senormodeler,

details in photos is a funny thing, even though you may not be able to see it the photo wouldn't be the same without it, plus you know it's there, like the models with the pressure hulls, in practice you barely need to put anything inside the hull after cutting the vents and drains out.

Regards
Jon

GlennCauley · « **Reply #57 on:** 03 Sep , 2014, 13:37 »

Very nice indeed!
If you are looking for a really good example of weathering, waterline algae buildup, etc. do a search on "Harvey Low IIB"
There is a thread here on AMP: http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=192.0
That boat was featured in FineScale Modeler, and I even competed against him at contests. I believe the article explains how he achieved his weathering effects.
Harvey is an excellent modeller, and a super-nice guy.

Senormodeler · « **Reply #58 on:** 06 Sep , 2014, 07:50 »

Thanks!
And thanks, Glenn for the link. That u-boat build is amazing. I fear I may have overdone the rust, but it's one of my first builds after getting back into the hobby. I've since sprayed on a matte coat and it has blended in the rust tones a lot.

That algae is amazing!! I'll definitely pick up the may 2010 back issue and take a look. Still a chance I can improve the weathering on my build.

Thanks

Rokket · « **Reply #59 on:** 10 Sep , 2014, 01:50 »

Looks gorgeous

Senormodeler · « **Reply #60 on:** 11 Sep , 2014, 13:11 »

Hey Rokket,
I sent you an email with a question about your type vii model. What brand/guage of thread or wire did you use to rig your u-boat? It looks so good and I'm pretty close to rigging mine up. I'd love to get the thread that you used.

Thanks!

Senormodeler · « **Reply #61 on:** 12 Sep , 2014, 07:24 »

If anyone else has any suggestions as to what type of thread to use for rigging, please let me know. I'm trying to do research but haven't come up with anything solid yet.

falo · « **Reply #62 on:** 12 Sep , 2014, 11:44 »

Hi Senormodeler,

I use this one for rigging, very elastic and fine:

http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/

By the way Uschi van der Rosten ( aka Alexander Glass) is a very good model kit builder and he runs his own company.

Regards
Falo

Senormodeler · « **Reply #63 on:** 12 Sep , 2014, 15:15 »

Thanks, Falo. Would you recommend the standard, fine or superfine for a 1/72 scale u-boat? That's .03, .02 and .01 mm respectively.

falo · « **Reply #64 on:** 13 Sep , 2014, 06:07 »

Hi Senormodeler,

I purchased "fine".

Regards
Falo

falo · « **Reply #65 on:** 18 Sep , 2014, 11:23 »

Hi Senormodeler,

maybe a little bit late for your algae paint job but I just found that:

http://www.dersockelshop.de/detail/index/sArticle/45416

It works with powder and colored fixer fluids. IMO a very interesting idea.

Rgards
Olaf

Senormodeler · « **Reply #66 on:** 01 Oct , 2014, 07:52 »

Time for an update. I've been working on this every free chance I get so that it will be done in time for OrangeCon this saturday. All that's left to do is the rigging, the stand, and a few touchups and fixes.

I didn't much like the insulators that the kit provided so, after a lot of research, I decided to follow Glenn Cauley's (and other's) example and make my own turnbuckles and insulators. For the insulators I just just cut apart the kit provided piece and then cut grooves on the sides of them. Then I wrapped electrical wire around them. I still need to find something to use as a wire "wrap" between the insulators.

I made the turnbuckles from styrene with wire hooks on each end. Glenn has an excellent set of instructions for doing this on his WIP thread for his U-673:
http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=67.msg9954#msg9954
Thanks, Glenn!

For the wire rigging I used EZ-Line (fine). But I twisted the line so that it would look like braided steel cable. I still need to paint the cable and weather the turnbuckles to knock them back a bit.

Thanks for looking!

GlennCauley · « **Reply #67 on:** 01 Oct , 2014, 08:37 »

NICE!!! And you're welcome.

Senormodeler · « **Reply #68 on:** 08 Oct , 2014, 08:10 »

Finally calling this build done! I made the final push last week before OrangeCon. And then was deeply humbled at OrangeCon when I saw the level of workmanship there. Very cool stuff.

I'm still working on the stand but otherwise the u-boat is finished. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to get a display case? I've looked at a few online but I'd love to get your input.

Here are some pics. Thanks for looking, and thanks for all the help.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #69 on:** 09 Oct , 2014, 08:46 »

Holy WOW !!!

dbauer · « **Reply #70 on:** 10 Oct , 2014, 17:28 »

Excellent Work!!! Very well done.
Regards,
Dan

Senormodeler · « **Reply #71 on:** 10 Oct , 2014, 20:02 »

Thanks, Dan!

42rocker · « **Reply #72 on:** 08 May , 2018, 22:08 »

So many lost pics - THANKS a lot photobucket.

Can anyone post a few of these back up or are they gone for good.

Later Tim

AndrewTSM · « **Reply #73 on:** 27 Oct , 2019, 19:59 »

I know you'll probably never read this, but if you want to make your U-505 slightly more accurate, you got to remove the A bar stantion connecting to the twin rudders, it was removed on U-505 and many other U-boats beginning late 1943.

dougie47 · « **Reply #74 on:** 28 Oct , 2019, 13:18 »

Hi Andrew,

I removed this from my U 505 model too. I mentioned it in my U 505 article (see page 38 in The Wolf Pack II file). Your removal date of late 43 onwards seems spot on.

Cheers,

Dougie

AndrewTSM · « **Reply #75 on:** 29 Oct , 2019, 12:25 »

Yes, I've spotted this outside your article, then I got more info about in your article, this guy seems to have missed it.

AndrewTSM · « **Reply #76 on:** 29 Oct , 2019, 12:28 »

This may be rivet counting at its finest but even the most dedicated modelers miss this hole on their IXC.

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Author Topic: My revel type ix u-boat (Read 40083 times)

Senormodeler

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AndrewTSM