U-552 - doing it my way.

[Siara]

 

Im slowly getting to grips with the optics:



TBC...

[warnster68]

Hi all,

New member at the request of Rokket....he said I'd find a lot of info on the AMP forum and after the past couple of days going trough the discussion groups he was not wrong.

My main modeling back ground has been 1/35 Germain artillery dioramas but I've always had a desire to build a U-Boat.  So, here goes.

Have purchased the Revel VIIC (5015 Kit) and am just waiting for the after market parts, PE, figures etc  to arrive.
My plan is to make a water level diorama of the U-552 (or 557....not sure yet....any real difference between the two?) with provisions and torpedoes being loaded at sea.

As I have 3 kids and a wife and work as a TV Commercial Producer, "ME" time to build this sucker will probably take over a year. YIKES.
If I don't reply to any of your questions or answers right away you now know why.

In viewing Rokket's utterly amazing 557 and seeing the masterful work Siara is doing on his 552 I'm hoping to learn as much as I can to make my VIIC a piece I'd be proud of.


I do have a few questions.....

Did 557 or 552 both have wood decks?

I purchased the the Czech Masters Winch for loading torpedoes at sea (CZN2007) but do also have need the Winch kit CZN2009) that mounts rigging to the conning tower?

Siara....just amazed at your work...your shrink ray works well.  How do you make the bolts that you show at the base of the periscope tower?

Secondly, what type of Koki paste are you using as there are several different types?
I've found a North American company that apparently sells the stuff...just have to call them with specifics.

Thanks everyone and I look forward to seeing and reading more about your projects.

Warren.

[Greif]

Hi and welcome warnster68!  I hope you continue to enjoy the forum.

To answer a couple of your questions:

Both U552 and U557 had wooden decks, the early war slotted versions.  "Nautilus Models" sells a very nice wooden deck for Revell kit 5015, the one you want is Model 72-501 if you are planning to use a wooden deck that is.

There were slight differences between U552 and U557.  Of course Wink and Siara are the experts there and will be able to give you alot of great information concerning the two.  Another excellent source of information is the "U-BOATS: Type VIIC Free-Flooding Vent Patterns" pamphlet by Dougie Martindale along with his equally excellent "U-BOATS: Kriegmarine U-Boat Colours & Markings".  Both can be found at the AMP Website under "Library" button.

The first CMK Torpedo Loading Winch is the one you want.  The setup is very much the same as the CZN2009, though there are some differences.  The instructions do a good job showing you how it should be displayed.  There are also several photos at various internet sites that show torpedos being loaded at sea.

I will see what I can dig up as far as links.  The Gallery right here has some great photos, so it is a good place to start.

Again, welcome!

Ernest 

Hi all,

New member at the request of Rokket....he said I'd find a lot of info on the AMP forum and after the past couple of days going trough the discussion groups he was not wrong.

My main modeling back ground has been 1/35 Germain artillery dioramas but I've always had a desire to build a U-Boat.  So, here goes.

Have purchased the Revel VIIC (5015 Kit) and am just waiting for the after market parts, PE, figures etc  to arrive.
My plan is to make a water level diorama of the U-552 (or 557....not sure yet....any real difference between the two?) with provisions and torpedoes being loaded at sea.

As I have 3 kids and a wife and work as a TV Commercial Producer, "ME" time to build this sucker will probably take over a year. YIKES.
If I don't reply to any of your questions or answers right away you now know why.

In viewing Rokket's utterly amazing 557 and seeing the masterful work Siara is doing on his 552 I'm hoping to learn as much as I can to make my VIIC a piece I'd be proud of.


I do have a few questions.....

Did 557 or 552 both have wood decks?

I purchased the the Czech Masters Winch for loading torpedoes at sea (CZN2007) but do also have need the Winch kit CZN2009) that mounts rigging to the conning tower?

Siara....just amazed at your work...your shrink ray works well.  How do you make the bolts that you show at the base of the periscope tower?

Secondly, what type of Koki paste are you using as there are several different types?
I've found a North American company that apparently sells the stuff...just have to call them with specifics.

Thanks everyone and I look forward to seeing and reading more about your projects.

Warren.

[warnster68]

Hi Greif, thanks for the welcome and reply to my quarries.

Wood Decks, perfect.  I'll order the deck. Thanks.

I'll check out the books you mentioned....I think I'm leaning towards the 552 (late war period) at the moment.

As for the Winch....I thought I only needed the one kit but the descriptions at Squadron didn't give that much detail.

Had a look at the U-Tube link Wink posted on the footage of a torpedo being loaded at sea.  Definitely not the way I will depict the scene in my dio.
Fun  to watch though.

Thanks for the help and yes, have spent many an hour pouring over the gallery and it's links.
There is some fantastic talent out there that is for sure.

Best regards,
Warren.

[Siara]

Slowly, but surely...




TBC...

[bracco_n]

Incredible stuff! Nice!

[Siara]

Incredible stuff! Nice!

Thanks mate!

Some more detail:





TBC...

[Siara]

TBC...

[Rokket]

That's just crap, Siara, that match stick looks fake! It's too big t be real against your REAL deck gun...

Beautiful, as always. I am assuming that you have (in addition to amazing talent): no partner, no job, unlimited funds...right?

Cheers,
WG

[warnster68]

amazing stuff Siara.  All your solder points done with that Koki paste?  Very clean...would love to see a tutorial on how you apply and solder that stuff.
Warren.

PS...and ya, that match stick just stinks...very fake looking. shame on you.

[wildspear]

thats a good idea, we all enjoy your work and marvel at the detail. A short "how to" on your soldering would be a godsend to us all. Since seeing your work I am in the process of getting soldering equipment so I can try my hand at scratch building rails and such.

[Siara]

Thanks guys. Its nice to hear such encouraging words.

All the soldering is done with Koki paste. Its so easy to solder using that stuff, the tutorial is not necessary. Just get the tube of that paste, and start soldering. Its that easy.
What i do is, get the pinhead size dot on one of the soldered parts, align the other part to be soldered, and either apply heat via the torch ( few seconds will suffice ), or using the iron tip i will hold the tip against one of the soldered parts, untill the paste starts sweating- thats the point when the joint is ready. With the later method you can solder real close to some of the already made joints. I was soldering parts as close as 2mm from another joint, and it didnt run.

That paste leaves no buildup, and the joints are real clean. Few strokes with soft wire brush will produce amazingly tight solder work.

Heres the good tutorial from my friend Sergionex on polish model forum. I know its in polish, but good pictures will show you step by step how is done.
http://pwm.org.pl/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1867&p=17871&hilit=+pasta+koki#p17871
Hope it helps.

[warnster68]

The paste sounds amazinging and looks so easy to use.

I found the Koki website for anyone wanting to inquire about the paste and where they might be able to purchase it.
http://www.ko-ki.co.jp/product/product1.html

There are several paste products but I think the one we want is TB48-M741. It's has the lowest melting point.
I've written to the "Product Inquiry" section of the website and e-mailed the North American distributor but have not had a reply as of yet.
If anyone else gets info on the paste and where to buy it please post.

Siera, your friend in Poland...does he own a hobby store that stocks the stuff and does he ship to N.A. (or better yet, have a website)

As "wildspear" has done, I've started buying solder material and the Koti paste is the only thing missing.

Looking forward to Siara's next set of pictures !!!!

Warren.

[Siara]

The best type of Koki paste for our hobby seems to be the 4- M954 type.
The make up of the paste being:  Sn62% Pb36% Ag2%
Melting point for that paste is reached at ~210deg C

[Siara]

Schoulder supports:







TBC...

[bracco_n]

Good job! Is the gun crew already painted?

[Siara]

I havent yet started the 88mm gun crew. I need to finish the gun first, and then align all the limbs to fit the gun.

[Rokket]

reeeally, as always, amazing

[Mr. Bill]

The level of craftsmanship here is outstanding!  Seeing this is an inspiration for me to improve my work and try new techniques.  I only wish my 50 year old eyeballs were in better shape!

Regards,

Bill

[Siara]

Thanks guys!
Schoulder supports are ready, few more details, and gun will be done.







TBC...

[Siara]

Gun finished:
















TBC...

[Mr.Mox]

Nice, very nice. Looks much more "busy" than the kit parts alone.

Cheers/Jan

[Rokket]

yet another real miniature!

[GlennCauley]

Before I forget, have you added the 2 doublers (the strengthening strips) that were located behind the forward planes? The green arrow points to them. Neither of the doublers are on the Revell kit. I'm not sure these 2 doublers were quite as wide as the other doublers on the hull casing but it is hard to be sure. You can also see them on page 25 and page 27 of Steve Wiper's pictorial book. 

Cheers,

Dougie

I have a question about the lower doubler as shown in your pic.

The lower doubler starts near the bottom of the casing (just above the keel) and goes fowards and upwards.

But where does it end?

a) ends in line with the upper doubler
b) ends at the rear edge of the lower flooding vents
c) continues all the way forward to below the lower torpedo door

I noticed that in the Modelbrass PE lower flooding vents, there are the top 3 rows of vents... then a wide gap... then the remaining 5 rows of vents.


From your line drawing, if the lower doubler went all the way forward, it looks like it would pass through that wide gap in the lower flooding vents and continue forward.

However, where your line drawing shows the end of that doubler ending below the lower torpedo door, on the model it would end up at the bow plane pivot hole.  Maybe it's an error in the PE vents, but to make the doubler pass through that wide gap in the PE vents... the angle makes it end in the wrong place.

Hopefully this last part makes sense... if not then I'll take a pic of my model with the proposed path of the doubler drawn on it.

[Siara]

Glenn- you absolutly right. If you install the PE flood holes for the bottom of the hull at the bow, the doubler should go through the gap in the middle of the plate. However, this means, that if the PE was installed correctly , the doublers would finish at the bow planes pivot point. This is exactly how i made my doubler look.
According to pictures ive seen the doublers should extend further- in line with the other doublers on the port side, and on the starboard sie it would be longer then other doublers, still simetrical on both sides- (remember the starboard doublers- top, and the midle one are slightly shorter)
Hope it helps.

Siara

[dougie47]

Hi Glenn & Siara,

Well done lads on noticing this. You are both right. The Modelbrass part isn't right. When the Modelbrass set was being designed I send the designer a drawing of the free-flooding holes in this area. However, rather than adjusting the "height" of the piece, he left it as it was. As he was very keen to be first to the market he didn't allow enough time to correct this. Only about a year later, when I was researching the doublers in this area, did I realise there was a major problem here. I realised exactly as you did - how the hell can a doubler run through this piece to a point under the dive planes? It was at that point it became obvious that the height of the piece is wrong.

The best photo of this area is of U 99. It is a VIIB rather than a VIIC but I think the doublers were the same -



Forget the white arrows, they were for something else. You can see that a thick doubler runs up until the holes. Then a much narrower doubler runs through between the two groups of holes and then up to a point as shown on my U 47 side profile.

I'd copy what Siara has done in this area - it disguises the problem very well.

Best of luck,

Dougie

[GlennCauley]

The best photo of this area is of U 99. It is a VIIB rather than a VIIC but I think the doublers were the same -



You can see that a thick doubler runs up until the holes. Then a much narrower doubler runs through between the two groups of holes and then up to a point as shown on my U 47 side profile.

Okay, so we aren't all suffering from mass dillusion then!  LOL
From this pic, it looks like a doubler up the the rearmost edge of the holes... but then through the holes and forward it looks like a weld bead on the casing rather than a doubler... or perhaps a single rivet-row strengthening strip?

[dougie47]

Hi Glenn,

Not sure, if I had to guess I'd say a single rivet-row strengthening strip. Have a good weekend.

Cheers,

Dougie

[Siara]

Looking at the picture sounds about right.

[GlennCauley]

Looking at the picture sounds about right.

Which one sounds right?   

The reason I think it may be a weld line forward of the bottom "new" doubler:

Look at the top "new" doubler... it ends at the rear of the vents... and then a 45

[Siara]

Im back in the shipyard, and work started on the 88mm gun crew.
Im using Warriors set.
After asembly i cut out the imitation of the 88mm projectile from the hands of the loader- i will turn the new one from brass.



TBC...

[Siara]

 

[wildspear]

Could you post a pic on your turning set up? Fantastic work on the shell.

[Siara]

Could you post a pic on your turning set up? Fantastic work on the shell.

Thanks Wildspear!
Nothing fancy- just plain set of tools.
Heres the shot of my turning/drilling set up:


...and soldering tools:


Im dreaming of the proper lathe....

[bracco_n]

Fantastic as usual! May I ask for a photo of your hand holding the 88? I would like to see the size related to the hand and see the full scale of your work.

[Siara]

Fantastic as usual! May I ask for a photo of your hand holding the 88? I would like to see the size related to the hand and see the full scale of your work.

 

[Siara]

Im sure you are going to like this set of test shots.



TBC...

[Siara]

I have aded the sights for the aimer, and the bracket only on the other side.




The whole gun was sprayed Chaos Black primer.




The support on the aimers side is extended to fit the figure, and on the other side one is in stowed possition.

TBC...

[Rokket]

very real looking, such detail!

[bracco_n]

WOOOOW that

[Mr.Mox]

Sweet looking

[Siara]

Sweet looking

[Siara]

Started painting the gun.






... and the base colour for figures:

TBC...

[warnster68]

Such great stuff....I finally got all my supplies and kit so am just itching to start my build.
Finding Koki paste has been a little tricky but I did finally find a Canadian suppler but the cost if fairly high and the ship time is 6 weeks so I'm going back to the solder wire....where I did find a 0.3mm wire.

Your U 552 sight is a great resource and I've studied it (and this forum) extensively. This build will be a real scratch building challenge for me and the one question I had for you regarding scratch built parts made from thin brass sheeting was how do YOU cut the brass sheets into such small parts?

[Siara]

Thanks! 

Im glad you like the model.
First things first- Koki paste. I know the producer gives it 6 months lifespan, but i keep mine in the fridge, and is still as good as new. In fact i know people that use it for good few years, and is still OK. Key is to keep it in the cool, dry, dark place.
The paste may seem to be bit pricey, but believe me- NOTHING BEATS KOKI! If you take jump, and invest in it, you will never go back to solder, and flux. It will last you forever and the results are easy to see in this thread. Trust me- order it today.

Regarding the brass manufacture- i cut it using scisors as close i can, and then holding it in tweezers i work on the piece with various grade files, and sandpaper. If i need the ring i drill first, and work the outsides after. Amazing what one can do his way. Wih the little patience and practice nothing is impossible.

[warnster68]

Thanks Siara for your input....my Koki supplier says the paste can be messy and that the wire may be a better choice but seeing the work you have done with the paste I will get the paste and just see what happens.

[Siara]

TBC...

[Rokket]

Nicely weathered and ready for firing!

[Siara]

Thanks Rokket.

Weathering cont.
First the oil stains:



Then the soft pencil for raw metal scratches.



TBC...

[Siara]

 

[Siara]

[Mr.Mox]

So, you are getting close - a bit of rigging and thats it ?

Looks good and I must say those MIG washes works well!

Cheers/Jan

[Trierarch]

Hi Siarra,

I'm back after a few weeks on the road, and I cant believe what incredible work you have been doing since. Just superb craftsmanship. I think that you are getting very close to the end now and that the rigging will be piece of cake, even if you have to model all the oval shapes tighteners.

Good luck for your completion. As of me the modeling season is over until next fall. I knew it before hand, and in the upcoming months I might get only a few hours a month to model.

Keep up your fantastic work.

Cheers
 

[Siara]

The list of things to do:
Finish painting the deck
Finish weathering the hull
Attach the capstan, and KDB
Insert the lights
Weather, and attach the 20mm
Rigging- complete scratch
Screw the model onto new wooden base- which needs to be stained, and insignia need to be placed on
Cover the model with glass cabinet, and crack open the biggest bottle of Becks i can find.

[Rokket]

God idea saving that Becks for the end, otherwise the rest might not get done.

[Siara]

I have uploaded 27 new images of U-552 on my blog. 

[Siara]

Rigging.

This is the part of the project, where scratch building will be required.
Revells parts are completely unuseable:



Real life picture:


I discarded the revells parts altogether, and designed the "mother" isolator from 2 separate oval brass discs, and after sloting each of them half way through the middle, soldered them together.



My friend from Poland promissed to make 30 of them from resin, using the "mother" to make mould.

[wildspear]

Siara,
I don't remember if I asked this before... What kind of camera are you using to take your photo's.

[Siara]

Siara,
I don't remember if I asked this before... What kind of camera are you using to take your photo's.

Canon IXUS 70 Digital, mounted on Star 700 EF Digital tripod.
Really inexpensive set up, but so simple, and easy to use. Ive been happy with this camera for last 2 years. So much so- my father, an my friend use them also.
I believe you can pick one for about 100

[dougie47]

Hi Siara,

Great work as usual. I didn't say but your 88mm is exceptional, weathering excellent too. It doesn't look like 72nd scale - looks like a much bigger size.

I hope your mate from Poland can produce your insulators in resin. I contacted a professional modelmaker years ago to try and get insulators made for my old Amati boat. He couldn't do them because of the small size and air bubbles. But hopefully your mate will fare better as they would be VERY useful.

Cheers,

Dougie

[warnster68]

If he makes 60 I'll buy 30 !!!

[GlennCauley]

when i made my insulators for my U625, i used the kit ones, cut them up, and made 4 furrows in each one with a fine-edge file.

let me know how yours turn out!   would be a great item to sell.

[vonbulowfla]

siara' yes mate those 'mothers you made are top shelf . as for the camera whats that price in us dollars .150.00 ami close i know somewhere out there i cyberspace there is a conversion chart . to f------ tired or should i say lazy to find it ! anyway you know you get nothing but praise from me on your boat ladd gooday . let us know how those insulators  come along . peace to all !

[Rokket]

Nice dwg and technique, Glenn!

[Jeff Douglas]

Greetings Siara-I am both new to Sub modeling and to this forum. Your work is an inspiration and education for me. I have followed Glenn's and Wink's work also. All of you set the standard for others to try some of your techniques. Thanks all of you for sharing your knowledge with others.
I have begun a 1/72nd scale diorama with both a Flower Class Corvette and a Type VII-C U-boat having built mostly 1/35th figures and armour over the years.I felt the need to change inorder to restimulate my love for the hobby.You guys have helped.
Sincerely- Jeff Douglas

[Rokket]

Glad to hear it, Jeff, welcome aboard and post some pix!

[Siara]

While waiting for the insulators i made the hand drawing of the rigging with all the components that will be needed:



TBC...

[vonbulowfla]

siara ' nice drawings mate . cant wait to see the final product .

[bracco_n]

So you are also a fine drawer!

[NZSnowman]

Hi Siara, I just found this on the net of U-552. It may be useful for the rigging etc or have you see it before?

<a href="http://imageshack.us" target="_blank">[img width= height= alt=" border="0]http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9710/u5522.jpg[/img][/url]

[Siara]

Yeah- i know the picture, but thanks anyway!

[warnster68]

Hi Siara....how's the progress on the rigging coming as I haven't seen any posts lately. 
Warren.

[Rokket]

SHHH, I' supposed to be casting some bits for him...SHHHH!!!!

[Siara]

SHHH, I' supposed to be casting some bits for him...SHHHH!!!!

   Waiting patiently. 

[Rokket]

MAAAAYbe this weekend...

[vonbulowfla]

whats the holdup ladd's . off to the pub thennnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn for a few .and a few more . and so on and so on.

[Rokket]

Casting Type II parts, Gato Torpedo Shutters sets, that pesky 7-3 job (that always spills over), a wife, and a a few dozen other unrelated projects - once my complete control of time and space is assured, THEN...bwahahahahahahahahah

[wildspear]

I think someone is playing a Fiddle.......enough talk get the lead out and get working........   

[Rokket]

I made a mold over the weekend, first cast was horribly unsuccessful, cut mold down and tried agin, same luck. The resin is too thick to make it into the tiny cavity, even with help.

BUT, Iam pretty sure there's a profile in plastic that fits these...a "+" profile strip thcould have the ends rounded....

[Siara]

Thanks for trying Wink.
Im sure i can come up with something suitable.
Im slightly busy with the Kettenwagen project at the moment, but once i calm my skin down a bit, i will jump on the boat again.

[Rokket]

that KW is looking fantastic already!

[kagero43]

Simply fantastic work - thanks for sharing, including your drawings! - Harvey

[Siara]

Thanks guys!

[Siara]

Finally im getting somewhere!

I have ditched the plans for resin insulators, and decided on photo Etch approach.
I got in touch with guy from Poland called Wojtek Fajga ( well known scratch builder ), an he will help me in the process of making the insulators from brass. Stay tuned....

[Rokket]

Excellent!

Myself, I just used tiny slices of plastic glued to the thread. Seemed to work well enough, they are very small.

[conus00]

Hi Siara,
can't wait for another update. I just got my hands on the same kit and as soon as we move I intend to give it a good bashing
I am not as skilled scratch-builder as you, so I do not intend to go as nuts as you did (and I mean it in a good way ) but, if you don't mind, I intend to use some of your pictures as a reference.

-Libor

BTW Great job on the KW so far!

On the funny note: my g/f saw your avatar picture and she said: "he looks just like Jason Statham..."

[Siara]

Hi Siara,
can't wait for another update. I just got my hands on the same kit and as soon as we move I intend to give it a good bashing
I am not as skilled scratch-builder as you, so I do not intend to go as nuts as you did (and I mean it in a good way ) but, if you don't mind, I intend to use some of your pictures as a reference.

Feel free my friend.

BTW Great job on the KW so far!

Thank you!

On the funny note: my g/f saw your avatar picture and she said: "he looks just like Jason Statham..."

Only not as rich.

[Siara]

I just received the email from Wojtek regarding the photo- etched insulators, and they are done!
He has sent the insulators today, and showed me the picture of the test fitting:

The spaces between the line grooves will be filled with Magic Sculp, or Green Stuff.
You like?

[dougie47]

Hi Siara,

Yeah, I certainly do like!

Will your friend Wojtek be selling these insulators to the public? If so, this would be VERY useful as the insulators have always been a problem.

Cheers,

Dougie

[Siara]

Hes only making set for me at the moment. I dont know if he`ll be interested in making it as the bussiness venture, but if theres demand ill ask him.
Do you reckon it will sell?

[dougie47]

Hi Siara,

It's difficult to say about market size. I doubt if he'd make much money. But if your friend has the philosophy of wanting to help modellers then it is definitely worth doing. It does look a good product, and superdetailers would really appreciate the product.

By the way, the insulators would be great for the 72nd Type II kit. Modellers would, I think, want to get them for their Type IIs as well as Type VIIs.

Given the small size he'd cram a large number of insulators onto one brass sheet. So production costs per unit would be low.

I'll post a poll on the forum to ask others about this.

Cheers,

Dougie

[Siara]

And i will have the word with Wojtek if he is interested if the poll esults are encouraging.
He is very busy man, as he builds the models himself- and is one of the best i ever came accross.
 check this out guys!

[westers]

Wow Siara, your friend is a seriously talented guy.

As I can't translate the build thread can you explain briefly what he is doing? It looks like he is designing the plane from scratch, but I'm not sure as the resin engine pieces and the fusalage pieces perhaps show a kit he's bought, but is improving on.

[vonbulowfla]

greetings ladds . i have been throught the f-----g ringer this past week . my dad who was also a master modeler and one of the best drag racers in the late 1960s .took his own life last sunday out of f------g nowhere . he was sick for years and finally at 66 years old .said f--k it and hung himself .it is like losing your hero . he was a master machinist as well as a  arobatic model airplane.flight expert . i am putting in our site because althought he didnt sign in but he always checked up on the site to see what all us ladds were building .he was a master model craftsman in every meaning of the word . his name was 'sonny ' walter pfister my dad and my idol .and now i have a hole in my soul that is there until they toss me in a f-----g hole . so ladds let us all here on the site tip one back in honore of my dad and a lover of all models and all you great guys who build them .and in his memory i am going to produce and finish some things that he wont be able too do .to the standard of the master my pop .i love dad and if you canslip some of your energy particals across the universe . and see what i said to all my mates about you .and check in and let us know somehow your threre . anyway ladds this event took my drive and intrist in the hobby he gave me and i love into the ground with him but i will comeback stronger and smarter as we all will be from all he taught me ' thats all for now i needed to let this energy out to all my mates and all the ladd. thank you ./ and thank you pop i love you always and forever .will talk to you all soon mates . 

[Siara]

Im sorry to hear it Michael.
Please accept my sincere condolences on the passing of your dear father.

[billp51d]

           Sad news indeed...Bill

[vonbulowfla]

siara' thank you mate . and thank you bill and all the ladds for your kind words . it is worth more than all the money in the world . talk to you all soon .

[JAORSA]

Dear Vonbulowfla,
we do not know personally, but please accept my sincere condolences as a member of this forum.
Javier
(Sevilla-Spain)

[dougie47]

I'd like to offer my sincere condolences to you and your family. I will raise my glass in honour of your father tonight.

Warmest regards,

Dougie

[Rokket]

Very sorry to hear the news. I felt the same way about my Dad, he died at a similar age, 62, it knocks you out. But like you, I have really wonderful memories and really wonderful friends. I shall raise my glass as well.

Wishing you the best.

Wink

[Siara]

The delivery from Wojtek. These things are small.  



Wojtek produced few designs, and i have to decie which i will use. No doubt it is some challenge to solder them together.

[Rokket]

wow, looks nice tho!

[vonbulowfla]

siara' are those the insulators for the wireless . they sure do look small . might have to beef them up a bit ladd . but then again at that scale who the f--k could tell anyway . in any event they will finish the boat off good . i want to thank you and the ladds again for your kind words . i will get back to the shipyard as soon as i feel better . take care and will talk to you soon .

[Siara]

Take your time Michael- models can wait.
Dont forget that submariners should be patient.
Talk to you soon.

[Siara]

I have made beautiful insulators doday, and i didnt use the PE!

Ill show you the effects by weekend.

[Rokket]

just teasing us, hey?

[Siara]

Im still getting to grips with my new camera, and the shots are not as good as they can be.


I used the 0,125 mm for test shot, but in the end i will make all the rigging using the braid called Dacron.
Good thing about insulators made from the Green Stuff is, that it is of the right color already. No need to paint.

[billp51d]

         Siara...Nicely formed. What diameter wire (Gauge) are you useing ?
                                                                                    Bill

[Rokket]

Interesting way to do it, works great!

[Siara]

Bill- this is just the test fit, to see if the grooves are cut correctly. For final rigging i will be useing the thread called Dacron- really thin, and subtle fishing braid. (I use the stuff to tie the carp rigs, when im carp fishing.)
If you just wondering what thickness the wire is- it is 0,125mm.

[Rokket]

is it hairy? I Think Dacron is a type of polyester, or am I waaay off?

[Siara]

Wink- it is super smooth. No one hair on it. It also looks like the steel line, when adequately painted.

[Siara]

Thanks to my friend Lucas who visited the Wilhelmshaven boat yesterday i got the good shot of the rigging.

[Rokket]

Stunning! I thought bits of plastic on either side of the line were good, but you have the rigging, wow, blows me away mate!

[Mr. Bill]

Hello Siara,

The photo of the rigging is stunning.  I hope I can muster enough skill and close up vision to come even close to this level of work when I get to the rigging on U-45.

Excellent!

[Siara]

Guys-    the picture of the rigging is of the original boat in Laboe- not the model, but when i make mine, be sure i will put enough work in, so it looks almost identical.
I got it all sussed, and rigging will be Dacron, with wraporounds done using excellent Lycra from White Ensign Models.
Now i have to find the gap in the week to start putting the words into practise.
Hopefully over weekend i should get some done.

BTW Bill- that U-45 of yours is looking real good pal. Superb detailing- i love it!

[Rokket]

Sometimes it's hard for us to tell the difference with your stuff...

[Johann Vilthomsen]

Thanks to my friend Lucas who visited the Wilhelmshaven boat yesterday i got the good shot of the rigging.

Siara, look this link, more photos from Laboe and the insulators.
I'm your fan!!!!!  

General Pictures
http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showpost.php?p=1177039&postcount=2

Insulators detail
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42663166@N03/sets/72157622285248961/show/

Greetings.

[Siara]

Thanks for the links Johann- superb pictures!  

Gandalf on subsim- is that you?

[Johann Vilthomsen]

No, no, i'm not gandalf. In Subsim I'm Johann Vilthomsen too 

[Siara]

Aha- you are the spanish guy converting the living room into U-Boot. Great idea i must say. Is your wife (if you have one) ok with the project? I know what my would say if i did the same thing to the house. 

[Don in Cincinnati]

Siara:

I have followed your build here for some time and congratulate you as not only a craftsman, but as a true artist.

I am a retired designer, age 72, with a passion for U-boat models, and have just begun a build on the Type VIIc Revell boat. (U96)
 While I have nowhere near the talent you bring to the hobby I am working to do a better-than average model insofar as corrected vision and slightly shakey hands allow. (Thank god for Optivisors!)

Right now my curiousity prompts the following question (although I am a long way away from finishes): You mentioned hairspray and kitchen salt as a means of weathering the  lower hull. Could you explain in some small detail just how this works and how it is applied?

I would greatly appreciate any help you may give.

Best wishes,

Don

[Siara]

Hi Don, and welcome to the forum!
Thanks for compliments!

Im glad you like my work.

For the hairspray, and salt technique i can recomend this thread on MIG forum

Hope it is not against the rules of the AMP forum, and Wink, or Dougie not gonna use the chopping technique on this post.

[Don in Cincinnati]

Hi Don, and welcome to the forum!
Thanks for compliments!

Im glad you like my work.

For the hairspray, and salt technique i can recomend this thread on MIG forum

Hope it is not against the rules of the AMP forum, and Wink, or Dougie not gonna use the chopping technique on this post.

I don't know Wink yet, although I've ordered U-boat waterline decals from him. Dougie and I have been corresponding for a while now.  (he's currently trying to help me find a home for a big U-boat construction site diorama -the Kruppwerkes at Kiel- that I've built over the past three years.) so if need be I'll put in a good word! 

I've been reading some of the salt and hairspray techniques over the past hours and think I will do some trials on some old "throw away" models of yor.

Thanks for the help.

BTW: what is your art background? Your sketches and selection of art pencils hint at art training and background. (Having drawn and painted over many years it is somethig I tend to notice in others.) Do you draw for enjoyment? If not, you should consider it.

At any rate thanks for the help. I will continue following your build and wish you all the best. No doubt I will be asking more questions over time but I'll try not to make a pest of myself.

Thanks again.
Don

[Siara]

Sometimes i draw, or paint, but lately im more into photography.
I like the pencil work, and watercolours, but had done oils aswell.
Heres the example of my work- mind you i never received fair criticism for it.

Watercolour on cardboard, framed, and hung in my workshop.

[Rokket]

Siara, That post is Sooo history! (get it?!) Naw, we won't cut stuff because you link to other forums. The point is to share and expand.

Don - please do tell us more, and post some photos, love to see.

[Don in Cincinnati]

Siara:

With regards to your drawing, nicely done. I have done a lot of portrait work over the years, but still have an artist's love for figure work, which I consider among the most difficult to do.

So far as criticism goes I'll leave that to others. For me artwork is like modeling; so long as I enjoy what I've done that's enough. George Bernard Shaw once commented that a critic is "Someone who comes in after a battle and murders the wounded."

And also, in regard to modeling, it is, I think you will agree, a form of sculpture. The objects we shape have an aesthetic quality as much as a historical significance.

Wow! All this is getting pretty esoteric at 10:00am local time. And I'ne got some weld seams that are crying for attention. Stay well.

Don

[Siara]

Don- im eager to see your work.
Please post some images my friend.
 

[Siara]

All the other projects are on hold, and im slowly sarting the rigging.

[Siara]

Added few blocks, and primed Chaos Black:

[Don in Cincinnati]

Siara, That post is Sooo history! (get it?!) Naw, we won't cut stuff because you link to other forums. The point is to share and expand.

Don - please do tell us more, and post some photos, love to see.

Rokket:

Thanks for your invitation and sorry about my delay in responding. (As John Lennon said, "Reality is what happens to us while we are making plans.")

As to photos of my build, two problems: first I'm working with what might be politely called an 'inexpensive' (read cheap) digital camera and close ups tend to be fuzzy. Secondly, being no great shakes at the computer stuff posting pictures still has me scratching my head.


If I can sort things out I'll put up a few shots.

In point-if-fact you (and I) have Siara to thank for my not getting a lot done on the boat. The truth is I spend more time here on the forum than I do building because I feel I am getting a master's class on how to build a U-boat.  My craft skills are far from you-know-who, but have improved markedly since coming here.

I owe a great debt of gratitude to Siara for sharing his remarkable talent with us.
 

[Rokket]

That's what it's all about! do keep us informed here, and I'm sure you'll get a few photos up - if you can do subs, you can do pix!

[Don in Cincinnati]

The last post by Siara on this forum was on October 14, seven days ago. I'm wondering if all is okay with him? Has anyone had any contact that explains his absence?

[Siara]

Actually i have posted yesterday.
Im OK- no worries mate. I dont work constantly on the boat, as it could be dangerous to your nervous system. I rather space my work- that way i never get bored.
Im working on some other small projects inbetween to keep me sane.
Check my blog

[dougie47]

Hi Siara,

Love the wood on the sentry box. What scale is it - 35th perhaps?

Cheers,

Dougie

[Siara]

Hi Siara,

Love the wood on the sentry box. What scale is it - 35th perhaps?

Cheers,
Dougie

Yes it is in 1/35 scale.

[Don in Cincinnati]

Actually i have posted yesterday.
Im OK- no worries mate.

Not worry, S, just mild concern. When one reaches my advanced age (72) it just seems natural to look out for friends.

I dont work constantly on the boat, as it could be dangerous to your nervous system. I rather space my work- that way I never get bored.

Makes sense. Truth be told, I'm amazed at your ability to balance modeling, job, family and friends, and still manage to get so much quality modelwork completed. I thought when I retired I'd have tons of time to model, but life's little necessities seem to intrude all too often pulling me away from the model room. Today, for example, is a beautiful sunny fall morning in midwestern USA and I need to get up on the roof for some much needed gutter repairs. But should that PE arrive today? 

Im working on some other small projects inbetween to keep me sane.
Check my blog

Sanity is in short supply among modelers, and hurrah for that. I think it's the lack of it (in a good way) that makes us all a little more interesting.

I visit the subism site along with your blog and this Forum. It's a real education for me.

Stay well, and happy modeling.

Don

[Siara]

Todays sanity medicine:


 

[Don in Cincinnati]

Siara:

I need your help.

I am in the early stages of my build and while doing some hull work I sanded off some rivets. You mentioned somewhere back that you were using a Trumpeter rivet tool to do your boat.

Going to an online product source the picture of the tool makes me believe it produces indented rivets. However the pictures you posted look like raised rivets.

Can you clarify? Any help you may give will be greatly appreciated.

Don

[Rokket]

For the side of the hull casing (I totally ripped it out to open the long slot), I rebuilt with veeeery thin sheet plastic, and used a pokey tool (think it was a nail punch, but anything pointy but not too sha) to poke or emboss rivets from behind. On the hull...tricky. You might have to go to the excellent Archer resin transfer, but they are $1 million.

Siara - love the sentry box, what's your weathered wood secret?

[Siara]

Don- for the general hull rivets i used the Trumpeter tool, because i believe in such scale the rivets should be barely visible. And indeed when looking at the model, you can only see the rivets at the right angle- against the light.
For the doubler strips i have cut thin alu foil, and indented the rivets in it using the same tool. This rivets are raised.
Like Wink said- if you like all your rivets raised- then go for the Archer Fine Transfers rivets- i bought them, but did not use the set- i will use it on some vehicle one day.

Wink- the wood is just styrene, which i carved to imitate the wood, and then painted layer, after layer to end up with different shades of gray- like the old weathered wood. Only some will be visible from under the shevrons tho.

[Rokket]

If you'd like to give more detail (I know you're busy), it would make a great reference for the Library section.... I imagine too that knowing the technique means nothing without heaps of practice doing it! Stunning, a true miniature. I want to build one now to practice myself! Somehing out of weathered wood! Anything!

[Don in Cincinnati]

Don- for the general hull rivets i used the Trumpeter tool, because i believe in such scale the rivets should be barely visible. And indeed when looking at the model, you can only see the rivets at the right angle- against the light.
For the doubler strips i have cut thin alu foil, and indented the rivets in it using the same tool. This rivets are raised.
Like Wink said- if you like all your rivets raised- then go for the Archer Fine Transfers rivets- i bought them, but did not use the set- i will use it on some vehicle one day.

Wink- the wood is just styrene, which i carved to imitate the wood, and then painted layer, after layer to end up with different shades of gray- like the old weathered wood. Only some will be visible from under the shevrons tho.

Siara:
Thanks for the help. Until seeing your boat in progress (Along with a few others) I'd never envisioned getting into this level of detail. My learning curve must be nearly a vertical line since coming to the AMP forum.

Another big shout out to Dougie for his encyclopedic knowledge of U-boats and his unstinting willingness to share it.

The decision about raised vs indented rivets is on hold right now until I look at a lot more reference photos. I'm not sure at this point whether I am ready to take the step of sanding off all the rivets. It may be beyond my skill level.  (But it is under consideration.) Right now I feel like someone who has climbed up onto the high diving board to impress his friends and is now faced with the thought that I may have to jump!

Keep up the good work. You are an inspiration to all of us to reach a little higher.
 
Don

[Siara]

Jump Don!
Your skills will improve during this build, and you come out the better modeller.

[Rokket]

I jumped, nearly dashed head on rocks, but came out OK.

[Don in Cincinnati]

I jumped, nearly dashed head on rocks, but came out OK.

Maybe you should elaborate about that "dashing head on rocks!" part, Rokket.

In any event, thanks for the encouragement, guys. I'm giving it serious thought. I really need to do more reference study. I am going ahead with ordering the Trumpeter Rivet tool and will do some practice work. More on this later.

In the meantime I'm working up a scratchbuilt pressure hull, or maybe I should say the front and rear sections. The center section will be the top portion only. I plan to keep it simple with only details that might be seen through the limber holes or other cut-outs.

In essence the plan is to cut a center spine using the hull profile and then add circular bulkheads set at 90 degrees along the spine. (all of .040 styrene sheet.)  Then I will skin the shapes with .010 stryrene sheet. In shape it will look sort of like the old balsa model airplane kits.

It's looking good in the early going.

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

[Siara]

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

So we are all the same. We all started the same way, and then fell in love with the U-Boat we were building, and wanted to do the best job possible. Welcome to the club Don.  ;-)
As to the pressure hull- just do the bare essentials, as not much is visible afterall- wish i never put so much effort and time into mine.

[Don in Cincinnati]

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

So we are all the same. We all started the same way, and then fell in love with the U-Boat we were building, and wanted to do the best job possible. Welcome to the club Don.  ;-)
As to the pressure hull- just do the bare essentials, as not much is visible afterall- wish i never put so much effort and time into mine.

Let me suggest something to you that is hard to explain, Siara, and on the surface makes little sense.

I have only been modeling for the past 13 years having come to the hobby late in life. (Age 73 in a few months.), but I have noticed that often a model that has hidden detail somehow still looks better sitting on a table next to the same exact model that doesn't. (I'm not talking about mine now.) I can't explain it, and it might just be psychological, but It seems so to me. Perhaps the love of doing quality work shines through in other ways.

 I don't intend to spend countless hours detailing something that will never be seen, but on occassion it is satisfying to know "it's in there."

[Siara]

Little update from the bench:


 

Time to remove some paint to expose some wood.

[Rokket]

Don - I see  what BOTH you and Siara are saying. I agree, the model with the barely visible "under the hood" detail has a certain magic. It's like backstory in movies - maybe a fully rich story is never really shown more than a tiny tiny bit onscreen or in a book, but whatever the story, the flavor helped the author. So I get that and agree!

But I see what Siara is saying, and agree with that totally too - the bottom line with this model is, you want some detail that is magically behind the hull, but yet it doesn't have to be massive t have that special "real" effect. I bult a whole nose and stern p-hull. but just the top of the center part as you say. I added a gun platform very rough, so that looking thru the slot you would see "somtehing" - same for conning tower. I added frames with holes for the bow (ony on my display side, I cheated), and they are invisible, but a casual side glance and you can see "something" - worth it I think.

[Rokket]

Siara - stunning as always, yes, add some "minus paint"

[Don in Cincinnati]

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

So we are all the same. We all started the same way, and then fell in love with the U-Boat we were building, and wanted to do the best job possible. Welcome to the club Don.  ;-)
As to the pressure hull- just do the bare essentials, as not much is visible afterall- wish i never put so much effort and time into mine.

Siara:

Any progress on the insulator problem?

I found some tiny Japanese glass beads at a local craft shop, but they are round, not oval. A shame, since they are a glossy bottlegreen with no need for paint. Also found some small braided wire for craft necklaces that looks like it might be close to the scale of the jumper wires. I'm a long way from that step but I try to keep my eyes open for things that might solve future modeling problems.

Spent the weekend scratchbuilding the front and rear pressure hull sections. Upon completion the rear section did not fit. Not even close.   I tried modifying what I had built, but ended up hacking it up so bad it went in the waste basket. This morning I started over and things are working out a little better. I'm still awaiting PE and decals from WEM on backorder since humans started walking erect.

There's a chill in the air here in the mid-west USA, but the fall colors are spectacular. I hope this message finds everyone well.

[Siara]

...and i was exploring rust today:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Reference39/RustReference#

[Greif]

Hi Siara, long time since we last spoke (wrote that is)!  Your model is spectacular, a true work of art.  You are gifted my friend. 

Like Don, I am interested in if you found other solutions for the "insulator question", other the the green stuff you used.  I am approaching the phase in my Type IIa build that will require me to scratch build some, and I'm not sure if my skills are up to shaping 21 or so oval shaped pieces of - whatever material I eventually will have to work with.  If there is an alternative I would jump on it.  If I find something I will be sure to share with the group.

As an aside, I am doing a bit of "kitbashing" to contruct the torpedo loading equipment for the scene I will be modelling.  The equipment is much different from that used on the Type VII's and IX's.  Hopefully, it will turn out as well as the "water" did.

Ernest

[Don in Cincinnati]

...and i was exploring rust today:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Reference39/RustReference#

Ah, the joys of rust. Is it any wonder our significant others look at us askance from time to time?

From your link I take it you are looking not only at color, but texture?

With that thought in mind are you familiar with a product called Rustall? It's a water based liquid made in the US which, when brushed on in a light application dries to a very convincing rustlike finish. The first applications tend to settle in cracks and corners for a slightly rusted finish, but further coats can be added to give a totally rusted look. Car modelers have used it for years to produce very convincing junkers and abandoned cars. And, perhaps equally as good it cleans up in brushes with soap and water.

I have used it with reasonable success in combination with pastels and paint over smooth or textured styrene.

It is available from Kuras design Group, San Francisco USA.

[Rokket]

Thanks for the review of Rustall, always wondered about it.

[Greif]

Hello all, I may have found a solution to the uboat insulator problem.  Last night I was looking for material to build a block and tackle for the torpedo loading equipment I am building for the loading scene on my U3 build.  

While at a website called "Cornwall Model Boats", which sells fittings for wooden sailing ships among other things,  I found some small wooden blocks that are used by builders of wooden sailing ship models for rigging.  The firm I looked under was Amati.  They have several types of small wooden rigging blocks, the pictured one is the type I ordered and plan to try out.  It looks to be the right size (2mm long) and I think with a bit of sanding it can easily be made more oval in shape.  I will let you all know how it turns out.

Ernest  

[Don in Cincinnati]

Thanks for the review of Rustall, always wondered about it.

While it's on the pricey side I've been happy with the results over the years. Glad I could add something positive to this thread.

[Don in Cincinnati]

Hello all, I may have found a solution to the uboat insulator problem.  Last night I was looking for material to build a block and tackle for the torpedo loading equipment I am building for the loading scene on my U3 build.  

While at a website called "Cornwall Model Boats", which sells fittings for wooden sailing ships among other things,  I found some small wooden blocks that are used by builders of wooden sailing ship models for rigging.  The firm I looked under was Amati.  They have several types of small wooden rigging blocks, the pictured one is the type I ordered and plan to try out.  It looks to be the right size (2mm long) and I think with a bit of sanding it can easily be made more oval in shape.  I will let you all know how it turns out.

Ernest  

Is this the same company that sold the Amati U-47 Resin hull Type VIIb (Which I had the misfortune to order) before Revell's kit came out? If so, I seem to remember Dougie trying to use the insulators in his Amati boat kit and not being too pleased with the results. (These things are incredibly small.) I will go dust off my old Amati kit and give the insulators -which I believe are wood- another look.

All that aside, keep us posted, Ernest. And thanks for sharing the information.

I suspect that some of us who don't possess Siara's micro modeling skills -and I fall into that group-may have to make a decision as to how much detail we can handle with pieces this small. When I built Revell's 1/125 scale boat I used drops of white glue applied with a toothpick and painted for insulators. They dried into round shapes but at that scale were nearly invisible.

[Greif]

Hi Don,

yep it is the same company that puts out U-47.  Their wooden ships and fittings are far better quality then that poor effort.  I should receive the blocks in a few days and I will let everyone know if they work out.  I agree about Siara's skills, which are far, far better then mine.  Right now I am making turnbuckles for my Type IIa, and had to take a break after 2.5 hours of effort, which incluced much cursing under my breath!

Ernest 

[Siara]

Greif- this insulators are really nice. Please let us know how they turn out.

Don- i have never used this Rustal thing myself, but i know about it, as lot of modelers i know use it, and i heard much good reviews about it.

For rust i use the acrylic, layered painting, with salt technique, and to finish off i use pigments, and artistic oils where needed.
I received test batch of new product called "Euro Rdza Metal", and "Euro Rdza System" for rusting metal, and plastic parts respectively.
It is made by Euromodel Plus, and the first tests look promissing.

Btw: I have been testing some new things on the sentry box- please let me know if it looks convincing.
I thought adding the single salvaged plank would ad some extra detail to the box.
Now i need to scrape some paint off, and do serious weathering.

[Rokket]

It looks mighty fine Siara

[Greif]

Siara, it looks pretty good to me!

I will be sure to let you know how the insulator idea turns out.

Ernest

[Don in Cincinnati]

Greif- this insulators are really nice. Please let us know how they turn out.

Don- i have never used this Rustal thing myself, but i know about it, as lot of modelers i know use it, and i heard much good reviews about it.

For rust i use the acrylic, layered painting, with salt technique, and to finish off i use pigments, and artistic oils where needed.
I received test batch of new product called "Euro Rdza Metal", and "Euro Rdza System" for rusting metal, and plastic parts respectively.
It is made by Euromodel Plus, and the first tests look promissing.

Btw: I have been testing some new things on the sentry box- please let me know if it looks convincing.
I thought adding the single salvaged plank would ad some extra detail to the box.
Now i need to scrape some paint off, and do serious weathering.

The sentry box looks good so far. I'm anxious to see how the weathering turns out.

I did one in 1/125 scale for a diorama once, and I notice you have the correct little holes on the sides. Are those peep holes? My research for the sentry box is worth a laugh. I freeze framed the DVD of The Battle of Britian movie at a scene where the sentry box was shown. I must say the set designers had it right.

How will your sentry box be used?

[Don in Cincinnati]

Hi Don,

yep it is the same company that puts out U-47.  Their wooden ships and fittings are far better quality then that poor effort.  I should receive the blocks in a few days and I will let everyone know if they work out.  I agree about Siara's skills, which are far, far better then mine.  Right now I am making turnbuckles for my Type IIa, and had to take a break after 2.5 hours of effort, which incluced much cursing under my breath!

Ernest 

I had a similar experience, Ernest. Worked all day (10 hours) scratchbuilding front section of a pressure hull only to discover when complete and test fitted it was too big!

But we owe a debt of thanks to our friend, Siara. (I do, anyway) The next day on this thread I saw how he had built, detailed, painted and weathered a conning tower -which to me looked flawless- but he was not satisfied and started all over again.

His willingness to redo that which fell short of his expectations inspired me to start that hull over again, as well.  (It turned out okay, and was even better since it was my second go and I now had some experience under my belt.)

Don

[Siara]

Rokket & Greif- thanks guys! Much appreciated.
Don- humble thank you sir.
Im glad my work inspires you. Its always nice to hear.

How will your sentry box be used?

Im still on the crossroads regarding the overall layout, but at the moment i think it will look like so. Picture this:
In front of the sentry box will be the MP figure, to his right will be open barrier (scratch) on the cobblestone road with a bit of pavement (scratch).
I will build the rikshaw using Tamiya bicycle set, enhanced with Lion Roar PE. This will be driven by Polish rikshawman, with the german officer and his "new" girlfriend as passengers. I can drop the girlfriend, and use the drunk officer instead.

The street section will be lit by industrial lamp, mounted on the wooden street post(scratch).

Im gonna decide on the final set up, while i go along with the project.

[Siara]

I just ordered this thing:
http://www.rbmodel.com/picture.php?file=3501.jpg&type=foto&size=big

 

[NZSnowman]

That will be a nice touch

[Siara]

That will be a nice touch

Yeah- i think it will look good, and unique. I may use this dio as the table lamp. ;-)

Some progress:

Now i will seal it with varnish, and get started with oils, and pigments.
Im having the blast with this little project- no rivet counting, no reference pictures- just pure modelling fun- brilliant.

[Don in Cincinnati]

That will be a nice touch

Yeah- i think it will look good, and unique. I may use this dio as the table lamp. ;-)

Some progress:

Now i will seal it with varnish, and get started with oils, and pigments.
Im having the blast with this little project- no rivet counting, no reference pictures- just pure modelling fun- brilliant.

Looking good. Keep sharing your progress.

Vis a vis your final comment, while working on a three year diorama project (The Kruppwerkes "glasshaus" U-boat construction site) I put the following reminder note over my worktable: This is supposed to be fun! It is still there. Helps to keep thing in perspective, you know.

[Greif]

Very nice weathering Siara.  Coming along nicely!

Ernest

[UrpoK]

Siara, you are a wizard! 
I mean that sentry box is a real beauty.
Timo

[Siara]

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Weathering finished:



I also added few bird droppings to the roof, as im planning to scratch the pigeon.

[Greif]

Awesome job dude!  Bird droppings hmm....make sure you wash your hands. 

Ernest

[Don in Cincinnati]

Awesome job dude!  Bird droppings hmm....make sure you wash your hands. 

Ernest

Bird droppings? This is modeling to a degree I'd never thought possible. Have you done your color research, Siara? (It's not just all white, you know.)

Seriously. I saw your plug for Koki paste on Grief's thread and it took me to a company in Poland. Since I have had little luck finding a US source for Koki paste my questin is:

A) Have you used this source?
B) Do you consider them dependable?
C) Would you consider them safe for a credit card purchase?


Thanks for any information you can give, Siara.

Don

[Rokket]

good questions because I'll need some too...

[Siara]

I bought the Koki paste from the same shop in Poland, and i must say the transaction was quick, and secure. I recomend the shop highly. Looks like theres not many dealers around europe at the moment, so the choices are limited.
The price is high, but on the good side- the tub of Koki paste will last for years- providing we never forget to put the paste in the fridge after use. It states on the packaging, that the life of the paste is aprox. 6 months, but i had mine since 2007, and is still as good as new, and still about 3/4 of the tub left. Good stuff honestly.

Meanwhile i have finished sculpting the pigeon.




Wings, and tail from beer can, legs made using 0,150mm copper wire, and the rest is Green Stuff.

[Greif]

Siara, that is one nice bird.

Ernest

[billp51d]

           ...Nicely done indeed...Bill

[wildspear]

OMG, that is so cool.

[dougie47]

Hi Siara,

Very nicely done, the pidgeon is a nice touch and rounds it off well. I think I have a 35th scale rat somewhere if you wanted that for inside

Cheers,

Dougie

[Siara]

Thanks for the offer Dougie, but i think one animal is enough. 
But i will be adding more detail to the inside of the sentry box- heres the phone i have scratch built today:

[Rokket]

pigeons have never looked so good!

[Don in Cincinnati]

good questions because I'll need some too...

On Siara's recommendation I ordered the Koki paste from Poland, Rokket. The stuff is pricey, but Siara's glowing recommendations were enough to convince me. I also bought the Dremel soldering iron. (Do you suppose he's getting a kickback on all this? )

One word of caution if you decide to order from that source: Once you are registered and place the order, no confirmation appears. Instead a message appears which says "Your shopping cart is empty." It isn't. Your order has been accepted. The only confirmation will appear on your E-mail. When I saw this  message I went through the process again only to find TWO order confirmations in my E-mail. I quickly cancelled one of them

Don

[Siara]

Do you suppose he's getting a kickback on all this? )

I wish.
The only think im getting is the sattisfaction from knowing that youll use the best things on the market, and it will help your model making great deal.
I gained that knowledge from other experienced modelers, an im just passing that knowledge on. Thats all.

[Rokket]

Thanks Don! (and Siara)

[Don in Cincinnati]

Do you suppose he's getting a kickback on all this? )

I wish.
The only think im getting is the sattisfaction from knowing that youll use the best things on the market, and it will help your model making great deal.
I gained that knowledge from other experienced modelers, an im just passing that knowledge on. Thats all.

It was my feeble attempt at humor, Siara. My apologies if it was offensive.

In truth my boat -which is in the very early stages of the build- is already far better for knowing you and being inspired by your thread to to reach a bit higher. For example, I would never have known about -much less ordered Koki paste had it not been for your recommendation. I could name perhaps over a dozen other improvements to my U96 already that are a direct result of studying your build thread and blog. As with Dougie, Rokket, Greif and a few others, I consider you a cyber friend. Hope you feel the same.

Don

[Siara]

I feel the same  

BTW: Does that wood look like the one on the grampa furniture?

[Rokket]

It does - "crazing" technique with water-based over enamel?

[Siara]

Wink- i used artistic oils over the acrylics. Oils nicely blend the courseness of the acrylics, and create shading similar to the wood grain.
Heres how it looks like at he moment:

Im generally pleased with the final result- it helps to add the detail , and color to the plain body of the box.
Im planning on some extra items like the Kar 98, Signal magazine, possibly empty wine bottle, and maybe long waterproof coat, so the inside of the box will be busy.

[Rokket]

phone is very nice, esp. the earpiece.

[Don in Cincinnati]

phone is very nice, esp. the earpiece.

Chaos reigns in the shipyard this morning. The subject that has me confused are the Modelbrass saddle tank inspection covers. The fret has 10 large plates and four small ones.
Since modelbrass included no directions, I went to their web site which shows five covers per side, three large and two small, all set with the long side of the plate at 90 degrees to the long axis of the boat.

Deck plans in Robert Stern's book Type VII U-boats (p.44) show five plates as well with three set at 90 degrees and two with the long side parallel to the long axis of the boat. It's hard to determine size, but they appear to be all the same i.e no small ones.

In David Westwood's book Type VII U-boats (P. 26) three large covers are shown at 90 degrees to the long axis of the boat and two small ones are shown parallel to the long axis. Also in his book the frontpiece shows a photo of U99 which clearly shows five cover locations, but the covers appear to be removed. As best I can tell all seem to be the same size and set at the 90 degree angle.

For context my boat is U96,  Circa 1940, A Type VIIc.

Question #1
Am I correct in assuming that the Type VIIc of my vintage had five plates per side on the saddle tanks?

Question #2
Are all the plates the same size i.e. large, or are they a combination of 3 large and two small?
 
Question #3
Are they all mounted at 90 degrees to the long axis of the boat, or some combination of the above?

And one final question;
If they are all the same size where do the four small plates on the Modelbrass fret go?

I'd appreciate any help as I don't want to attach them until I'm sure they will be accurate.

Don

[dougie47]

Hi Don,

I believe the drawing on P26/27 of Westwood's book is correct. This shows 3 covers at 90 degrees to the axis and 2 covers at 90 degrees to the axis. This is supported by the photo of U 69 (the caption says U 99 but it is U 69) on page 2/3 of Westwood's book. The Modelbrass set was rushed into production for commercial reasons (accuracy wasn't the main goal). All you need is the five oval covers per side.

Cheers,

Dougie

[Don in Cincinnati]

Hi Don,

I believe the drawing on P26/27 of Westwood's book is correct. This shows 3 covers at 90 degrees to the axis and 2 covers at 90 degrees to the axis. This is supported by the photo of U 69 (the caption says U 99 but it is U 69) on page 2/3 of Westwood's book. The Modelbrass set was rushed into production for commercial reasons (accuracy wasn't the main goal). All you need is the five oval covers per side.

Cheers,

Dougie

Dougie:

Thanks for your input. I will go with your recommendation. I appreciate the time you took to help me.

Don

[Don in Cincinnati]

Hi Don,

I believe the drawing on P26/27 of Westwood's book is correct. This shows 3 covers at 90 degrees to the axis and 2 covers at 90 degrees to the axis. This is supported by the photo of U 69 (the caption says U 99 but it is U 69) on page 2/3 of Westwood's book. The Modelbrass set was rushed into production for commercial reasons (accuracy wasn't the main goal). All you need is the five oval covers per side.

Cheers,

Dougie

Dougie:

Thanks for your input. I will go with your recommendation. I appreciate the time you took to help me.

Don

The covers are installed thanks to the timely reply from Dougie.

I used the installation method employed by both Siara and Glenn Cauley i.e. super gluing them in position and then heating the brass covers with a soldering iron to melt them slightly into the plastic. As a final step I sanded the small plastic ridge aroung the edges of the covers.
The above works particularly well with the Modelbrass PE which is pretty thick and hard to shape. The inspection covers now sit nice and flush on the saddle tanks.

For those who have concerns about the heat method, let me assure you I am not a master class modeler, but I found this step remarkably easy. One tip: try a test with a piece of scrap brass of the same thickness on an old model first.

Thanks to Siara, Glenn and Dougie for the information.

Don

[Don in Cincinnati]

Re: Koki soldering paste as recommended by Siara:

good questions because I'll need some too...

Rokket:
Just received an E-mail stating that my order for the paste has shipped from Poland. All seems to be going well as of this message. If you are still interested I will post updates  here. I'm really looking forward to trying it as my soldering skills are about a minus three  on a one to ten scale.

Don

[Siara]

Don- i was the same before i got my hands on that paste. U-552 is the first model i have tried soldering.

[Rokket]

Thanks for the info Don. It's especially nice to point out that scary things aren't always scary!

[Don in Cincinnati]

Don- i was the same before i got my hands on that paste. U-552 is the first model i have tried soldering.

 The hallmark of a true craftsman is a willingness to share information in an effort to help others improve their skills.  It is to your credit that you have done this so freely here. I'm sure I am not alone in offering sincere thanks and appreciation for the thread.

Don

[Siara]

Im glad i can help.