Author Topic: U-995 Mission accomplished (Read 150648 times)

FoxbaT · « **on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:43 »

Hi,

i am new on the forum, my name is Karel Ton, age 37, and i live in The Netherlands.

I am building the U-995, i visited this boat last year in Laboe and it was very impressive.
This visit inspired me to build the U-995.

I will post pics of the progress until the point where i am now, if there are any comments or tips please let me now.

Me in front of the U-995....

I am going to build the boat with these accesoires:

-Eduard 53015 PE kit
-Nautilus wooden deck
-WEM Flood, Drain and Vent holes PE kit
-Griffon armament kit
-Modelbrass Type VII PE kit
-Archer transfers type VII kit

FoxbaT · « **Reply #1 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:43 »

FoxbaT · « **Reply #2 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:44 »

FoxbaT · « **Reply #3 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:45 »

FoxbaT · « **Reply #4 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:46 »

FoxbaT · « **Reply #5 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:47 »

FoxbaT · « **Reply #6 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:47 »

FoxbaT · « **Reply #7 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 11:48 »

This is how far i am now, i will keep posting more pics during the build....

Karel

Jan · « **Reply #8 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 12:04 »

Hi Karel,

welcome! Wooow...looks really good already! I especially like the surface of your outside pressure hull! Really nice effect

Cheers,
Jan

NZSnowman · « **Reply #9 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 14:22 »

Hi Karel

Welcome aboard! Your U-995 look wonderful some far. Will you be building U-995 as now at Laboe or at the end of WW2?

Simon

FoxbaT · « **Reply #10 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 20:31 »

Thanks Jan and Simon

I will build the U-995 in war condition.
As can be seen on one of my latest builds (1/9 scale Harley davidson WLA, see pics), i really like rust...

Therefore the U Boot will be weathered, i am really looking forward to that stage of the build.

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #11 on:** 15 Sep , 2010, 20:46 »

The Harley Davidson looks fantastic!!

Not sure if you know, but there are major changes to the hull etc

FoxbaT · « **Reply #12 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 03:14 »

If its not too much trouble, i would be very happy with a list of changes

Karel

UrpoK · « **Reply #13 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 04:00 »

Great job Karel! And very graphic images!
Timo

Grimsby · « **Reply #14 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 06:37 »

Really an outstanding job and some great pictures. Good job.

Fernando.

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #15 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 10:17 »

HI Karel

Magnificent job that you made!!My arms is fall on the ground

bravo !
Nicolas

Bad Karma · « **Reply #16 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 12:49 »

hi Karel,

Welcome to AMP my friend,glad to have you here.

Like others says,good job,keep us updated.

my best regards,

Ron.

Siara · « **Reply #17 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 16:41 »

Good job on the boat, but the bike is out of this planet!
I love it!
That reminds me i have BMW with the sidecar in the same scale waiting for its turn- i have one wheel completed with set of metal spokes so far.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #18 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 21:20 »

Thanks everbody for the compliments, always a good motivation

Siara; good to hear that there are more motorcycle builders on the forum, i also know what a difficult job it is to spoke a wheel....

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #19 on:** 16 Sep , 2010, 23:12 »

Beautiful work Karel. And great photography too. I wish I had the camera to be able to take such closeup pictures of my build.

Like the others, I especially like the way you did the pressure hull in your U-boat. It looks very realistic as to the roughness expected of such thick underwater parts as compared to the oil-canning of the thinner casing built around it.

A couple of questions though.

I see that you split the deck right down the middle. What was the reason for this?

It doesn't apply to mine since I discarded almost the whole deck except for the bow and stern steel casing parts and replaced it with framing and wood planks, but I don't see how splitting it down the middle helps.

The other question is why did you cut away the casing above the saddle tanks? You could have added the saddle tank surface inside the casing (nice job there too by the way) and the ribs without removing that casing part as far as I can see. Not that it harms it, but I would have thought it would be easier to have kept it in place.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #20 on:** 17 Sep , 2010, 03:28 »

Hi Pat,

I cut away the casing above the saddle tanks for a practical reason: it was much easyer to open up the long sleeve beneath the casing, and it was easyer to glue, fill and sand the saddletank extensions without the casing being in the way.
Another reason is that i was able to thin the casing itself to scale thickness with a dremel, if the casing would be in its place it would be more difficult to do that.

To maintain the proper shape/curve of the casing above the saddle tanks while adding the ribs i taped the plastic deck halfs to the casing as a help.
The only part of the deck i still need for the build is the section with the schnorkel, wich i must cut out and fit under the wooden deck.
The whole plastic deck will be replaced by the Nautilus deck.

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #21 on:** 17 Sep , 2010, 20:53 »

Here are a few changes to the external parts of U-995

Whole new external bow from Frame +99.
Balcon Ger

FoxbaT · « **Reply #22 on:** 18 Sep , 2010, 00:41 »

Simon, thank you very much!

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #23 on:** 18 Sep , 2010, 16:39 »

I am busy fitting the plastic Revell schnorkel housing underneath the wooden deck, so i am trying to find pictures of the housing.
On a picture of the U-995 i saw that the housing is open on the hull side.(see pic)
Is this accurate?, i understand the U-995 deck is new, so i am not sure if i can take this picture as a reference?

Thanks,

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #24 on:** 18 Sep , 2010, 18:15 »

Beautiful detail work - and excellent PE installation. Love it! The oil caning and surfacing are very nice touches.

TRM · « **Reply #25 on:** 18 Sep , 2010, 18:32 »

Karel,

First I would like to let you know you have an excellent build going on!

My knowledge of the schnorkel is most limited at the moment. However I have a couple of pictures that may or may not be of help.

Not sure if these next two are the unit in question. They are on the opposite side, unless they had mounted the schnorkel on either side, or I could be WAY OFF BASE...

Enjoying the build, keep the pictures coming!

Cheers!

NZSnowman · « **Reply #26 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 01:00 »

If you see a U-boat with a schnorkel on the Starboard side, it is almost certain at Type IX. I believe all Type IX

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #27 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 03:43 »

Hello foxbat

To have "to study" the subject !does not exist much as views or we can be certain is 100 % of the layout of the schnorkel housing !You can only interpret small pieces of photos!
As for example,On this photo have " see good " that it is rather empty

The photo comes from a site of report of air attacks,which is a good "source",As well as the sites of dive on the site of the op

FoxbaT · « **Reply #28 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 08:30 »

Many thanks Nicolas!

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #29 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 08:37 »

Allright, i`ve been busy today...

I cut out the plastic schnorkel `bay` from the original Revell deck, and fitted it underneath the wooden deck.
Of course nothing fits the first time, so i had to saw, sand, file and testfit a lot before it was ok.
First thing to do was resize the ribs, because they were to large on this area.

Here`s a pic of the `bay` on its place underneath the deck

And the result of an afternoon work...

Next step is to make the support poles underneath the deck

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #30 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 11:30 »

Deck supports are fixed

Karel

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #31 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 11:36 »

Beautiful job Karel
On the other hand, I does not understand, you kept the schnorkel `bay`of revell?
Nicolas

FoxbaT · « **Reply #32 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 11:42 »

With the bay i mean this whole plastic part, the space where the schnorkel is placed in

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #33 on:** 19 Sep , 2010, 16:02 »

From pieces of sprue (from the kit itself) i made an exhaust system.

A dryfit

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #34 on:** 20 Sep , 2010, 02:59 »

looks great, it works!

Siara · « **Reply #35 on:** 20 Sep , 2010, 12:08 »

Nice pipework!
How much of it will be visible when decked?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #36 on:** 20 Sep , 2010, 12:21 »

Thanks

Not much will be visible, only the area behind the floodholes, that is the reason why i don`t make an upper pressure hull because it can`t be seen.

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #37 on:** 20 Sep , 2010, 16:36 »

Karel, what do you have as guidelines for how wide the ribs are under the casing? I've seen some differences in some of the models here and since I'm hoping the interior between the pressure hull and the casing is going to be quite visible on mine (I'm making most of the hatches opening), then I'd like to get them right.

NZSnowman · « **Reply #38 on:** 21 Sep , 2010, 00:47 »

Pat,

Rib -16 to -15 = 625mm
Rib -15 to -8 = 500mm
Rib -8 to -7 = 325mm
Rib -7 to +105 = 500mm
Rib +105 to +106 = 625mm
Rib +106 to +116 = 500mm

Simon

Pat · « **Reply #39 on:** 21 Sep , 2010, 06:49 »

Ah, thanks for that information on the rib sizes. That will help a lot! :-)

FoxbaT · « **Reply #40 on:** 21 Sep , 2010, 11:13 »

Hi Pat,

i see your question is already answered

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #41 on:** 21 Sep , 2010, 14:18 »

I painted and weathered the exhaust piping

Karel

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #42 on:** 21 Sep , 2010, 15:54 »

Very attractive work Karel!
regards
Nicolas

Siara · « **Reply #43 on:** 21 Sep , 2010, 16:44 »

Nice rusting effect- hairspray technique?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #44 on:** 22 Sep , 2010, 12:19 »

Thanks, no its not the hairspray method, but a technique i discovered by coincidence.
First i cover the entirely exhaust in a thick layer of water thinned rust colored pigment and let it dry.
Then i make a mixture of burnt umber oil paint with white spirit (about 20% oil paint and 80% white spirit), and carefully apply it with a small pointed brush.
The pigment will absorb the mixture and the result is an uneven `rust` surface.
Because this mixture is very easy damaged just by touching it, i let it dry for a night and cover everything with a thin layer of Matt clear enamel.

Its a very simple but effective way too simulate rust.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #45 on:** 22 Sep , 2010, 14:52 »

I made the conningtower section that will be seen through the floodholes, maybe the shape is not 100% correct, but that is impossible too see through the floodholes.

Karel

Seewolf · « **Reply #46 on:** 22 Sep , 2010, 18:14 »

Hello Karel,
very good work, watching your boat allready since a time at the dutch modeler site.

Rokket · « **Reply #47 on:** 25 Sep , 2010, 01:30 »

looking excellent, and yes, you just need a general shape to see through the holes - it's quite dark in there!

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #48 on:** 25 Sep , 2010, 03:44 »

Hello FoxbaT

Very clean build and big dexterity ! Keep on the great work ! =)

Cheers,
L.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #49 on:** 26 Sep , 2010, 20:52 »

Thanks guys

I finished the air bottles that will be mounted underneath the deck.
I took 8mm aluminium tube and to get the round ends of an air bottle i glued 4mm thick pieces of plastic on the tube ends.
I gave them the right radius by sanding them with the help of a drilling machine.

I made straps from thin plastic and painted and weathered the bottles.
The salt seawater has left a couple of traces on the bottles....

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #50 on:** 26 Sep , 2010, 21:06 »

Beautiful weathering on the airbottles FoxbaT. That rust looks real. Not too much, not too little.

Jan · « **Reply #51 on:** 27 Sep , 2010, 11:01 »

Wow...really impressive!

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #52 on:** 27 Sep , 2010, 11:53 »

Impressive of realism! karel

whaouu!
"bravo l'artiste"
cheers
Nicolas !

NZSnowman · « **Reply #53 on:** 27 Sep , 2010, 22:02 »

Quote from: Pat on 20 Sep , 2010, 16:36

Karel, what do you have as guidelines for how wide the ribs are under the casing? I've seen some differences in some of the models here and since I'm hoping the interior between the pressure hull and the casing is going to be quite visible on mine (I'm making most of the hatches opening), then I'd like to get them right.

Hi Pat

Here a link to my new 'Working drawing' with the ribbing and framing layout.

http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=124.msg6518#new

FoxbaT · « **Reply #54 on:** 29 Sep , 2010, 04:47 »

Many thanks everybody

The lifeboat canisters are finished

I`ve made the canisters from plastic rod (10mm diameter)

Karel

Seewolf · « **Reply #55 on:** 29 Sep , 2010, 12:19 »

The rust effect looks very nice, have to try your technic

Johann Vilthomsen · « **Reply #56 on:** 30 Sep , 2010, 13:18 »

FoxbaT.... really impressive!

Nice and perfectionist work, congratulations!!!!!!

Siara · « **Reply #57 on:** 01 Oct , 2010, 02:41 »

Excellent painting skills.

Rokket · « **Reply #58 on:** 02 Oct , 2010, 17:50 »

reeeally nice canisters

FoxbaT · « **Reply #59 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 06:05 »

I have a small question, on the PE diesel exhausts are a couple of louvres/slots.

The PE instruction sheet tells me to bent the louvres, but there is no picture.
I don`t know if i should bent the louvres inside or outside.
Does someone has a picture of this type exhaust?

Thanks...

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #60 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 12:56 »

From Dougie & Wink The Wolf Pack: A Collection Of U-Boat Modelling Articles

Free-Flooding Vent Patterns Page 56

In 1942 another exhaust outlet (style 5) was introduced. This style had two horizontal bars positioned at an angle that directed the exhaust gases downwards. Style 5 featured on U 226 when it was launched on the 18th June 1942. It is likely that by the autumn of 1942 all new U-boats launched had style 5. Subsequent U-boats, including U 241, U 995, U 1003 and U 1305 sported this last style of outlet.

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #61 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 13:14 »

Hi Karel

For the diesel exhausts i have that

It is the 1003,The photo arises from the book"Vom Original Zum Modell/ Uboottyp VIIC
from Bernard and Gaefe Verlarg ,A good source of documentation!!
Sorry, I have nothing else!

regards
Nicolas

FoxbaT · « **Reply #62 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 13:59 »

Many thanks! this picture is of great help

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #63 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 22:10 »

Buy the AMP Flood Vent set from White Ensign Models - it's in there!

http://whiteensignmodels.com/
BUY NOW
To order The Flood & Vent set, go to WEM and search for #PE 7232. (Due to their catalogue system, no direct link is possible.)

FoxbaT · « **Reply #64 on:** 04 Oct , 2010, 00:22 »

Thanks Rokket, but i bought that kit already, problem is that even these PE exhaust are not completely accurate....

With the help of the picture from Nicolas i corrected the PE exhausts, it was a tricky job but i am very pleased with the result.

First of all i drilled 0.4mm holes at the sides of the sleeves so i was able to bent the louvres

After this i could bent the louvres at the right angle with the help of two scalpels

Next step was to close the holes at the sides of the sleeves with glue, and sand everything smooth with a piece of sanding paper

The vertical struts were made of thin steel wire

Last step was to remove glue residue and prime the parts

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #65 on:** 04 Oct , 2010, 00:32 »

O and i would like to thank everybody for the info/pictures so far, this forum is a real good help for me

Karel

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #66 on:** 04 Oct , 2010, 11:03 »

Karel!

great job ! and Good modification!!!!

cheers
nicolas

FoxbaT · « **Reply #67 on:** 05 Oct , 2010, 09:03 »

I decided to make the wooden plugs in the deck that covered the bolts.

First of all i bought a box of wooden pins

Then i drilled holes and superglued the pins on the deck

With a scalpel i cut of the pins

And after sanding this is the result

Maybe they are a bit oversized, but for me its ok

I think they will be slightly visible after painting the deck, we wil see...

Karel

Seewolf · « **Reply #68 on:** 05 Oct , 2010, 11:10 »

very nice

I`don

Pat · « **Reply #69 on:** 05 Oct , 2010, 11:21 »

VERY nice job FoxbaT. A lot of work but an excellent result.

Even if a bit oversized, once the deck is stained I think they will appear just the right size.

However, I think you should add a few more.

If you take a look at the photo that (Seewolf?) has on another thread (sorry, I don't remember which thread but within the last week, there was a photo with an inflatable raft on the deck of a U-boat with a water deflector at the front of the schnorkel slot), you can see that the planks have a few more attachement points.

You will find a fastener at the end of each of every plank where it ends at the edge of a hatch or where the bollards are set into the deck.

Take a look at your last photo, where the deck ends on either side of the stern running light fixture. There should be 4 more screw/plugs, 2 at each end of the running light. There should also be 8 at the hatch, 4 at each end of the hatch. 6 at the next, wider hatch (all at one end as there is another hatch right in front of it) and 4 at each bollard (2 each end).

Makes sense?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #70 on:** 05 Oct , 2010, 11:51 »

Thanks guys, indeed i need to make a few more, i have to study where they should come.

In the meantime i did the front part of the deck

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #71 on:** 05 Oct , 2010, 15:51 »

FoxbaT, again, looking good.

Don't forget that the bases for the bollards is metal, not wood, as is the base for the inflatables.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #72 on:** 05 Oct , 2010, 16:03 »

Yep i know, thanks

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #73 on:** 05 Oct , 2010, 16:28 »

I am stuck with another question.
The drip channels on the front and rear of the saddletanks on the U-995, are they historical correct or are they mounted later?
It`s difficult to found info on this subject, some boats do have them, and others don`t..

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #74 on:** 06 Oct , 2010, 05:05 »

After studying pictures from the U-995 i found the locations of the inspection holes, i could be 1 mm off but for me its good enough.

The exact locations of the hatches

And the hatches glued on the tanks after bending them in the right radius/curve

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #75 on:** 06 Oct , 2010, 06:22 »

Karel, you might not want to put in ALL of the screw/plugs in the deck. It might look too busy if you did that, especially with them being a bit oversized.

The way that you have it now, with only a few rows of screw/plugs gives the proper impression.

The reason I say that is that in real life, there would be a screw/plug each time a plank crosses a beam or support under the deck. Those beams are spaced about every 5 mm, (don't have my micrometer with me right now so the measurement is just an example) the same as the ribs.

Every time a plank ends (butt joints or when it's interrupted by a hatch or other deck fitting) there would be two screw/plugs, side by side. Butt joints were always staggered. There were never two together with adjacent planks.

Planks were usually a maximum of 6 meters in length - or shorter if there was a hatch or other fitting in the way.

So if you put in every screw/plug, you will probably have a little more than 4 times the number of plugs you've already done and it might start looking too cluttered with the oversized pins.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #76 on:** 06 Oct , 2010, 06:51 »

You are right Pat, i forgot 4 plugs in the afterdeck, and after that its ok with me

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #77 on:** 06 Oct , 2010, 22:53 »

Quote from: FoxbaT on 05 Oct , 2010, 16:28

I am stuck with another question.
The drip channels on the front and rear of the saddletanks on the U-995, are they historical correct or are they mounted later?
It`s difficult to found info on this subject, some boats do have them, and others don`t..

Karel

The drip channels and holes were added later to U-995 (at least after 13 Mar 1972). I believe no u-boat had drip channels and the holes.

Rokket · « **Reply #78 on:** 07 Oct , 2010, 04:22 »

The trouble with U 995 is that she was hacked up post war, and then hacked up worse by the "museum"... BUT, I have a period pic that shows "drip channels" or at least something damn close:

The U 995 pic also shows great frame detail!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #79 on:** 07 Oct , 2010, 04:27 »

Rokket, that is the same picture i saw, therefore i am still not sure wat to do....

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #80 on:** 07 Oct , 2010, 04:29 »

Well, Life is usually gray and complicated...I would guess that there was some kind of "drip" channel in WWII, and that U 995 Modern added some kind of inaccurate "thing" in 1972...

From the photo, that is NOT a weld seam...so it's ...something

FoxbaT · « **Reply #81 on:** 07 Oct , 2010, 04:32 »

I`ve been busy today

Glued the Eduard vents on the lower hull

The pods are mounted

And i corrected the faulty strips on the forward hull

I also scratched the thin `lip` at the underside of the anchor cove

The nails that were sanded away are replaced

Karel

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #82 on:** 07 Oct , 2010, 10:45 »

nice job karel !I am going to be ashamed to show my work now!

best regards
Nicolas

Pat · « **Reply #83 on:** 07 Oct , 2010, 15:05 »

Nice work Karel. You're doing a great job.

Like so often happens when I come to this site, I find another detail to add to my build.

Does anybody know what those "drip channels" are? For certain there's nothing to drip there since it's a part of the boat that's always under water.

And what's the purpose for the lip underneath the anchor well?

Seewolf · « **Reply #84 on:** 07 Oct , 2010, 19:18 »

Karel nice work... but I think the 3 water inlets, for the center dive tanks (don`t know how to name it in english), looked different. At least for the VIIc not 100% sure about the VIIc/41.
For the Satteltank the water inlet is correct from Eduard.

@Pat
regarding the "drip channels" ... I will go the way Jan did it with his U-711. But what is realy realy correct....I think that is one of the questions we will not find out so quick.

The purpose for the lip underneath the anchor well.... protecting of the material when the anchor is hoist up the last meter. The last meter stresses the material at the ege a lot before the anchor is in position, easyer to change the lip if necessery than to repair plates and frames.

Johann Vilthomsen · « **Reply #85 on:** 08 Oct , 2010, 02:24 »

Karel, what a nice work!!!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #86 on:** 08 Oct , 2010, 03:13 »

Thanks everybody

@Seewolf, its so difficult to find detailed pics from the water inlets, for now i leave it as it is.
If i find more detailed pics i could try to correct them if needed.

In the meantime i added a missing strip that runs over the front lower flooding holes

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #87 on:** 08 Oct , 2010, 07:32 »

Thanks for the info on the lip under the anchor well Seewolf. That makes sense, as they do a similar thing on many wooden tallships with a peice of sacrificial wood that can be easily replaced when damaged.

As for the 'drip channels', which can't possibly be for drips because of their location, I wonder if it might be a similar strengthening for the edge of the casing where it meets the PH. They might not wanted to have the casing firmly attached to the PH because flexing during heavy weather and depth charging would just rip the relatively thin metal of the casing off at the edge anyway, so they curled the edge up a bit to strengthen it and left a small gap so it wouldn't make noise rubbing against the PH.

The 'drip' holes in this rolled edge would be to let water flow through freely to reduce the chance of rusting inside the rolled edge, and maybe to stop the buildup of air bubbles that could come out all of a sudden and give away a position.

No proof of that. Just a guess since I can't think of what else that edge could be for.

Anybody got any other ideas?

billp51d · « **Reply #88 on:** 08 Oct , 2010, 09:56 »

Pat, Good thought on strenghtening that area with the "drip channel". The square holes above it ,though, I believe are only to allow moisture to weap out from the caseing on this display. You won't find them on U-boats that were in use. Another item found in other pics. on this boat are screens
over many of the ports. These are certainly just to keep birds and other "little creatures" from living
insde.
Cheers/Regards Bill

FoxbaT · « **Reply #89 on:** 10 Oct , 2010, 03:56 »

Just glued the PE eduard deck parts on

I made some piping underneath the square hole in the aft deck

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #90 on:** 10 Oct , 2010, 09:44 »

Excellent! Following with anticipation!

Cheers!

NZSnowman · « **Reply #91 on:** 10 Oct , 2010, 12:53 »

Quote from: FoxbaT on 10 Oct , 2010, 03:56

I made some piping underneath the square hole in the aft deck

Hi Karel

If it not to late and you have not glued the sten section on. It was a vent under this gril. Check this out out at uboat.net http://www.uboat.net/forums/read.php?14,79256,82695#msg-82695

Pat · « **Reply #92 on:** 10 Oct , 2010, 20:08 »

Karel, what ARE those two pipes going underneath the swuare hole on the stern deck? And why is there a hole there instead of a hatch? It would be good to know to get more of an idea what to put underneath the deck at that point.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #93 on:** 10 Oct , 2010, 21:03 »

Gentleman my mistake, it will be fixed....

NZSnowman · « **Reply #94 on:** 10 Oct , 2010, 23:07 »

Quote from: Pat on 10 Oct , 2010, 20:08

Karel, what ARE those two pipes going underneath the swuare hole on the stern deck? And why is there a hole there instead of a hatch? It would be good to know to get more of an idea what to put underneath the deck at that point.

Pat, it is the the inlet vent for drive tank 1.

Pat · « **Reply #95 on:** 11 Oct , 2010, 17:16 »

Simon, I knew that the opening was for the inlet valve (I think that'd been discussed before), but what are the two pipes? They don't seem to be part of a valve. (Any info on what the valve itself looks like?)

And that doesn't explain why it's a hole and not a hatch as everywhere else. Most inlet valves would make more sense below the waterline (unless of course they're bringing in air) and no need to have an inspection port. It would be controlled from inside.

It also seems strange that it's only on one side.

NZSnowman · « **Reply #96 on:** 11 Oct , 2010, 22:41 »

Hi Pat

I think Karel just added those pipes to add detail to that section of boat. I have yet to see any pipe in that area.

There is a cross section of the valve in the

Greif · « **Reply #97 on:** 15 Oct , 2010, 02:22 »

Hi Karel, your hull work and scratchbuilding are first class to say the least. I like your rust application technique; it looks very realistic. Your scratchbuilding skills are top notch also. I am very impressed with your skill. This will be a sweet model when she is finished.

Cheers,
Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #98 on:** 22 Oct , 2010, 09:43 »

Quote from: Greif on 15 Oct , 2010, 02:22

Hi Karel, your hull work and scratchbuilding are first class to say the least. I like your rust application technique; it looks very realistic. Your scratchbuilding skills are top notch also. I am very impressed with your skill. This will be a sweet model when she is finished.

Cheers,
Ernest

Thanks Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #99 on:** 22 Oct , 2010, 09:46 »

I didn`t had much time lately to work on the 995, the only thing i did was to weather the pressure hull.
Offcourse there is no need to do this so accurate because it almost can`t be seen later, but this was a good opportunity to practice my `rust` techniques.

Karel

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #100 on:** 22 Oct , 2010, 10:11 »

very realistic, i like it a lot !!! Sad to hide this great work under a deck...

cheers,
Laurent.

NZSnowman · « **Reply #101 on:** 22 Oct , 2010, 10:51 »

The rust looks great!

I think I would be scared to go to sea in that boat

Pat · « **Reply #102 on:** 22 Oct , 2010, 23:39 »

That rust is VERY realistic looking. Great work!!

Like Pepper-mint, I think it's a shame to hid it under a deck so it can't be seen.

So why not do what I'm doing and make the larger deck hatches opening so you can see inside and see this detail you've been creating? I've posted my hinge technique in a couple of places now, it's really not that hard to do and it will allow access to the 'tween area of spare torpedoes and exhaust trunking that you're doing so well at.

Anakin · « **Reply #103 on:** 23 Oct , 2010, 12:15 »

Looks great!

Remember there is always a possibility to make the deck a little more damaged like from the depth charges so there could be more pressure hull seen... A close almost an hit could tear the deck planking nicely away...

Rokket · « **Reply #104 on:** 23 Oct , 2010, 16:58 »

reeeally nice peeling and rust, love it!!! DEFINITELY open up a bit, some hatches, etc. as pat suggests, you can't hide al of this...

Greif · « **Reply #105 on:** 25 Oct , 2010, 00:21 »

The rust is awesome! What technique did you use to simulate it FoxbaT?

Ernest

Rokket · « **Reply #106 on:** 30 Oct , 2010, 22:25 »

yes, DO tell!

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #107 on:** 01 Nov , 2010, 02:59 »

Yes please, and the peeling technique !

I'll wash your dishes for 3 weeks...

FoxbaT · « **Reply #108 on:** 01 Nov , 2010, 14:21 »

Haha thanks guys, i will try to give a short explanation.

First of all i paint the base with a matt finish, the color is not so important; i used grey.
In the next step i mix rust pigments with water until it it has the thickness of... yoghurt...

I completely cover the base with a thick layer of this mixture, because the base is painted with a matt finish the pigments will hold better on the `rough` surface.
After drying, the pigments are very vulnerable, and because of that i make a mixture of burnt sienna oil paint and white spirit (about 20/80%), and carefully apply this mixture on the pigment surface with a pointed brush.
Because of this, you will get nice dark and light rust color differences in the pigment, and after a day of drying the pigments are now much stronger for the next step.
Then i take the final color (again grey enamel in my case) and completely cover the area with a fine brush, i don`t brush the paint on but i `tap` it on to avoid damaging the pigments.
After 10 minutes when the paint is just dry i begin to peel the paint with a scalpel.
Because the enamel paint doesn`t stick very well on the pigments, this is very easy to do and because the grey enamel paint is still fresh it will start to peel and come up.
If you wait to long with this the paint is to hard and it doesn`t peel, so timing is important.
In fact this is the base method i discovered, it is not easy but after some practise the results can be very good.

p.s Pepper Mint, when will you come to my house to wash my dishes?, my kitchen is overloaded......

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #109 on:** 02 Nov , 2010, 12:04 »

Very slick technique for rust FoxbaT. May I ask where you learned it from? Also, is the base coat of paint acrylic or enamel?

Thanks for the information!

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #110 on:** 02 Nov , 2010, 13:09 »

Thanks Ernest, i learned this technique from myself, i like to try different things to accomplish my goals, some things work and others don`t.
I discovered this technique by coincidence, and now i am trying to perfect it.

The base coat is also Enamel, i never use acrylics.

Karel

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #111 on:** 02 Nov , 2010, 15:36 »

Powerful sense of observation FoxbaT !
Your technique sounds logic to me. Paint a rusted sheet of metal and you'll get the same result. The difference : you get the result after peeling the hardened composite paint over the fragile rust pigments ; i use this technique for some furniture or wall decoration. I never thought to use this tech. in modeling.

Great !

I ow you 3 weeks dishwashing, in France we call those weeks "les semaines des 4 jeudi"...

Thanks for the explanations.

Cheers,
Pepper.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #112 on:** 07 Nov , 2010, 04:48 »

I started work on the periscope and conning tower

The periscope sanded and ready for paint

The basic parts for the conning tower including the Nautilus wooden deck part

Dryfit...

And a quick look how it fits on the deck

Karel

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #113 on:** 08 Nov , 2010, 12:33 »

Hi Karel
Work very clean and realized with talent .
Well done !
Nicolas

NZSnowman · « **Reply #114 on:** 08 Nov , 2010, 13:37 »

Hi Karel

It

FoxbaT · « **Reply #115 on:** 08 Nov , 2010, 19:57 »

Thanks Simon for your info.
Indeed its too late now to change this, off course i would like to have the boat as accurate as possible but this is something i can live with

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #116 on:** 14 Nov , 2010, 04:26 »

The flooding holes in the kit are not correct, so i filled the holes with Zap superglue, and sanded them smooth.

The accurate distance between the holes should be 7 mm.

After drilling 1mm holes i used a needle file to make the holes oval-shaped.
I also thinned the plastic behind the holes to scale thickness.

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #117 on:** 14 Nov , 2010, 14:10 »

Karel, that look good! On a side note, over the weekend I was looking at pictures of U-995 and I notice there were a lot of photographs of U-995 without a Schorchel, it may mean that she did not get one till very late in the war $:-\$

Pat · « **Reply #118 on:** 14 Nov , 2010, 15:32 »

Simon, here you go.

http://hnsa.org/conf2004/papers/berryman.htm

"(Oblt zur see Hans Georg) Hess was loosed in extreme northern waters with particular emphasis on the Murmansk Run. Between reporting aboard on October 8, 1944 and February 14, 1945 when he took U-995 to the yards at Trondheim, Norway, to be retrofitted with a snorkel, he fired 35 torpedoes."

Pat · « **Reply #119 on:** 14 Nov , 2010, 15:54 »

Some research indicates that U-995 never went on a combat patrol with the schnorkel.

http://www.deutscher-marinebund.de/u995_geschichte_english.htm

"At the time of the German capitulation on May, 8th, 1945, U995 was moored at Trondheim, Norway, to be equipped with a snorkel."

NZSnowman · « **Reply #120 on:** 14 Nov , 2010, 16:49 »

Quote from: Pat on 14 Nov , 2010, 15:54

Some research indicates that U-995 never went on a combat patrol with the schnorkel.

http://www.deutscher-marinebund.de/u995_geschichte_english.htm

"At the time of the German capitulation on May, 8th, 1945, U995 was moored at Trondheim, Norway, to be equipped with a snorkel."

Pat, this is great research!!! Really fantastic

This could examine a lot! Like in the other topic Schnorchel Placement http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=121.msg1411#msg1411 Maybe when they add a Schnorchel to a Type VIIC they have to widen the deck to get the piping in, because the Schnorchel was added after the war (in the 70

NZSnowman · « **Reply #121 on:** 15 Nov , 2010, 23:12 »

Hi Pat.

After more research on the Schnorchel and U-995 (This whole Schnorchel system is a nightmare

- photographs don

FoxbaT · « **Reply #122 on:** 17 Nov , 2010, 11:22 »

Thanks guys for the info!

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #123 on:** 17 Nov , 2010, 11:28 »

I am getting a bit bored by correcting al the faulty floodholes

The other floodholes on the conningtower are done...

A pic of the U995 conningtower

Here are some pics of the kitparts with the faulty holes filled with superglue

And the new floodholes...

Not very exciting news, but now the fun jobs will come

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #124 on:** 17 Nov , 2010, 17:41 »

Karel,

Great work with the "speed bump" (corrections) so to speak.

Enjoying your build. Looking forward to more...

Cheers!

Greif · « **Reply #125 on:** 19 Nov , 2010, 10:42 »

Nice job correcting the flooding vents Karel. I missed that the vents were incorrect on my U228 build

, good eye and research on your part.

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #126 on:** 26 Nov , 2010, 06:36 »

Quote from: Greif on 19 Nov , 2010, 10:42

Nice job correcting the flooding vents Karel. I missed that the vents were incorrect on my U228 build , good eye and research on your part.

Ernest

Thanks Ernest

In have done some PE work on the conningtower.

I glued the Eduard PE wood panels on the Revell parts.
Because the panels would be too thick with the PE panels glued on them, i thinned the panels on a piece of sandpaper

I also opened up these two parts, and glued the Eduard parts on top of them.

Work on the conningtower continues....

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #127 on:** 26 Nov , 2010, 10:03 »

Looking very good Karel.

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #128 on:** 29 Nov , 2010, 12:53 »

While working on the conning tower, i also made a start with painting the wooden deck.

First layer of `Wenge` brown

After this i made a mixture of the same Wenge brown with black to simulate a carboleum colour.

After the second layer with this mixture and sanding it to simulate wear and tear on the deck, this is the result so far.
Offcourse this is only the base, the deck will be further weathered.

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #129 on:** 29 Nov , 2010, 13:00 »

Karel, looks great!!

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #130 on:** 29 Nov , 2010, 17:11 »

Very good work K. !!! Your deck color is fitting with the description in Dougie and Wink's "The Wolf Pack" .
This is how a deck could look after some "outdoor" weeks. I like it a lot.

For sure you have weathering projects on the wooden deck... =)

Pat · « **Reply #131 on:** 29 Nov , 2010, 22:45 »

Looks real good Karel. I especially like how the wintergarten deck is worn more in the middle and less around the edges and ammunition canisters where the sailors wouldn't walk.

One question though. I see that the plates surrounding the docking bollards are wood. I'm not certain, but it would seem much more normal for those to be metal, much like the plate for the inflatable life rafts that you've inset into the deck.. Wood just wouldn't be strong enough to hold the bollards if the boat was rocking heavily in a storm while tied up to its supply ship in a fjord.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #132 on:** 30 Nov , 2010, 10:14 »

Thanks guys

Pat; all the metal panels/hatches and other metal parts on the deck are in the Eduard PE-kit, and will be mounted later on the wooden deck...

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #133 on:** 30 Nov , 2010, 17:38 »

Because wood turns light-grey at some spots because of the salt water and sunlight i gave the deck a very light wash of Tamiya Acryl Light grey.

On the pic i have done the rear deck with this wash, it can barely be seen but that is just the way i want it.

Further weathering on the deck will be done later.

I spent last evening with mounting all the Eduard PE hatches and hinges on the deck.
The hinges are 1 by 1 mm...., and i had to glue about 20 of them on the deck.

To give an idea from the size of the hinges:

Next update will follow soon....

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #134 on:** 30 Nov , 2010, 18:01 »

Really great weathering on your deck! I can see the hint of gray, nicely done. Waiting for the hinge installation!!! Have mine still attached to the sheet. they are small!

Cheers!

bracco_n · « **Reply #135 on:** 30 Nov , 2010, 18:01 »

Karel I really like your deck, keep it up!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #136 on:** 01 Dec , 2010, 11:21 »

The PE parts on the deck are painted and weathered.
For now i am happy, when the hull is finished and weathered i can see if i need too rework some colouring of the deck.

Nice detail pic from a PE part; the nuts on the ring are 1mm in diameter.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #137 on:** 01 Dec , 2010, 17:30 »

Terrific! What's next?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #138 on:** 02 Dec , 2010, 08:58 »

Hmm ik think i continue work on the conning tower, i really like to paint and to weather but that has to wait for a while now...

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #139 on:** 04 Dec , 2010, 00:53 »

WOWZA! Awesome weathering and wood, very impressive! Keep the photos coming!

Rokket · « **Reply #140 on:** 04 Dec , 2010, 00:54 »

ohh, tell us your secrets! what methods to achieve such excellent results...?

LE BOSCO · « **Reply #141 on:** 04 Dec , 2010, 12:16 »

Hi Karel

incredible work! wel done!I'm having a hard time showing my work now

regards
Nicolas

FoxbaT · « **Reply #142 on:** 04 Dec , 2010, 16:35 »

Thanks Rokket and Nicolas,

Rokket; It`s difficult to tell exactly the points what i am doing until i reach this result on the wooden deck.
I just start painting the deck with a couple of layers with thin paint of various shades of brown/black/grey,
sanding the deck between each layer of paint.
On the area`s where the wood wears more, i almost completely remove the paint with fine sandpaper.

By the way; this was the first time i used water-based paints, and it worked out great for me.
The hull will be painted with enamels, but some parts of the weathering will be done with acrylics (i am going to try the hairspray chipping technique for the first time).

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #143 on:** 04 Dec , 2010, 17:58 »

So instead of stains, you use paint, sand it back a bit, different paint, sand again...? very impressive result! Acrylics - I hate them but my wife has excellent results, so i should be more open and experiment more!

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #144 on:** 06 Dec , 2010, 07:27 »

Karel you're a Jedi !

FoxbaT · « **Reply #145 on:** 09 Dec , 2010, 06:39 »

Done some work on the conningtower, i made the railings and steps from 0.5mm brass wire.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #146 on:** 09 Dec , 2010, 16:13 »

Conning tower is looking great! Will remake the rest of the railings on the wintergarten?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #147 on:** 09 Dec , 2010, 21:16 »

Yes, everything wil be made from brass

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #148 on:** 10 Dec , 2010, 00:50 »

worth the effort, looking great

FoxbaT · « **Reply #149 on:** 12 Dec , 2010, 08:35 »

More railings were made..

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #150 on:** 12 Dec , 2010, 08:52 »

Very nice!

Greif · « **Reply #151 on:** 12 Dec , 2010, 10:27 »

Really excellent weathering Karel, one of the finest jobs I have seen yet.

Ernest

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #152 on:** 14 Dec , 2010, 06:24 »

Hi,

Can't wait to see the "wintergartens"... precise work karel.

Stay on target !

FoxbaT · « **Reply #153 on:** 18 Dec , 2010, 07:54 »

Right.... the upper wintergarden is finished.

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #154 on:** 18 Dec , 2010, 12:41 »

Beautiful work on the wintergarten Karel. Nice use of the brush!

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #155 on:** 18 Dec , 2010, 16:22 »

Haha, it`s a multifunctional brush...

bracco_n · « **Reply #156 on:** 18 Dec , 2010, 17:58 »

Wow that's great!

Pat · « **Reply #157 on:** 18 Dec , 2010, 19:20 »

Beautiful work Karel.

I especially like the closeup shot taken from just in front of the CT. It almost looks like you're standing there on the real one.

How did you do the bottom edge of the mesh on the lower part of the railings?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #158 on:** 19 Dec , 2010, 08:07 »

Quote from: Pat on 18 Dec , 2010, 19:20

Beautiful work Karel.

I especially like the closeup shot taken from just in front of the CT. It almost looks like you're standing there on the real one.

How did you do the bottom edge of the mesh on the lower part of the railings?

The bottom part is`nt glued on the railings, only the upper corners of the mesh are glued, the less glue the better...

FoxbaT · « **Reply #159 on:** 19 Dec , 2010, 08:08 »

I had a free Sunday, so work continued; the lower wintergarden is ready.

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #160 on:** 19 Dec , 2010, 09:53 »

Beautiful Work Karel!!!!

Pat · « **Reply #161 on:** 19 Dec , 2010, 21:35 »

Karel, I know the bottom part of the mesh isn't glued to the railings. On the real boats, I think it had a strand of wire woven through the bottom links to hold it down. It's what you did to represent that wire (or whatever it was) that I'm asking about.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #162 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 02:18 »

Ok, now i understand

That part is one piece with the rest of the mesh as it comes in the Eduard PE kit.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #163 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 06:44 »

The other mesh parts are mounted..

Karel

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #164 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 10:35 »

Karel, very clean and fine work !

Are you going to build the AA security railings ?

I'm staying tuned...

FoxbaT · « **Reply #165 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 11:27 »

Thanks Pepper,

I don`t know if the security railings were present on the 995, its difficult to find info on this subject.
Does someone knows more about this?

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #166 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 11:58 »

On 16 September 1943 it commission date, it did not have one.

I have a brief look at this and you may be right. I could not find any pictures with the security railings with a date. When I get time I will look into this with more detail. Dougie, may have the answer, at hand.

Nevertheless, this open up another quection. Did the late war Type VII/41 had this security railings? There would be no need for them on the very late war u-boat. I will also check this out.

Good spotting, Karel!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #167 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 12:47 »

Thanks in advance Simon

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #168 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 14:55 »

Quote from: NZSnowman on 20 Dec , 2010, 11:58

Nevertheless, this open up another quection. Did the late war Type VII/41 had this security railings? There would be no need for them on the very late war u-boat. I will also check this out.

The answer to this question is YES. I fought several pictures of U-1304 and U-1305 with the security railings. U-1304 and U-1305 (including U-1308) were all of the same batch and are very late Type VIIC/41.

dougie47 · « **Reply #169 on:** 20 Dec , 2010, 15:04 »

Hello guys,

Very nice work on those railings, Karel!

U 993 and U 994 were both launched with Turm II towers. I would think U 995 would also have been launched with a Turm II. At some point in 1943 a Turm IV (without security railings) would have been fitted to U 995.

By the end of the war, most (and I'm thinking probably all) VIICs and VIIC/41s had the security railings. There would be one set of security railings behind the top platform, and another set of security railings behind the rear platform. The book "Vom original zum Modell: VIIC" shows a few sets of railings and Turms. I think the implementation of the security railings would be around April or May 1944 or so.

One thing to consider when studying Turm IIs and Turm IVs is the height of the top (forward) platform. The top platform on the Turm IV was much higher than the top platform on the Turm IIs. You can use this height difference to differentiate between a Turm II and Turm IV.

Cheers,

Dougie

FoxbaT · « **Reply #170 on:** 21 Dec , 2010, 05:52 »

Many thanks guys for the info.
For now i leave it as it is, if i find evidence that the 995 had the railings in 44/45, i will add them later.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #171 on:** 23 Dec , 2010, 07:04 »

The steel plate in front of the CT is done, the trussets and the plate from the Revell part were too thick, i thinned the trussets with a small file and scalpel, the steel plate was thinned later while it was glued on the CT.

The revell part.

Here the trussets are thinned (only the visible part)

I also discovered that the steel plate was riveted on the trussets, fortunately i had some rivets left in my Archer rivet kit.
Another thing i added were the PE triangular brackets for the antenna wire.

Karel

rabapla · « **Reply #172 on:** 23 Dec , 2010, 07:20 »

beautiful work!

I admit I'm stupid, but I still don't understand how that archer stuff works

:
is it like water decals? cutting pretty close to the rivets and then slide it onto the modell, hoping the carrier film disappears after painting. or like a dry transfer: just rubbing the rivets onto the model?

sincerely

ralf

FoxbaT · « **Reply #173 on:** 23 Dec , 2010, 07:35 »

Thanks Ralf,

indeed they are water transfers, the carrier film is very thin so i hope it wil disappear after painting, otherwise i have to give the carrier film a slight carefull sanding.

Karel

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #174 on:** 23 Dec , 2010, 08:59 »

Quote from: NZSnowman on 20 Dec , 2010, 14:55

Quote from: NZSnowman on 20 Dec , 2010, 11:58
Nevertheless, this open up another quection. Did the late war Type VII/41 had this security railings? There would be no need for them on the very late war u-boat. I will also check this out.

The answer to this question is YES. I fought several pictures of U-1304 and U-1305 with the security railings. U-1304 and U-1305 (including U-1308) were all of the same batch and are very late Type VIIC/41.

Great news !

Karel, you know : i'm not gonna repeat myself. keep glueing.

Rokket · « **Reply #175 on:** 24 Dec , 2010, 00:20 »

very nice ....I did the same, and it makes a difference!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #176 on:** 24 Dec , 2010, 09:01 »

In the Revell kit there are no `pfillenwerfers`present, so i made these today with the help of some detailed pics from the real U995.

Here the exact position is marked.

And the openings ready, i also added rivets.
On the inside i glued two small round caps from the scratchbox to prevent light shining through the holes.

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #177 on:** 25 Dec , 2010, 17:07 »

Nice. what are pillferwillies?

bracco_n · « **Reply #178 on:** 25 Dec , 2010, 18:54 »

Pillenwerfer was a device designed to release a specially designed canister which had a substance inside that on contact with sea water released a huge quantity of bubbles that hung in the water at about 30 m depth. this mass of bubbles gave a sonar image pretty similar to that caused by a submerged Uboat, so while the destroyer blasted the bubbles the uboat crept out of danger.

Rokket · « **Reply #179 on:** 27 Dec , 2010, 00:53 »

ahhh...noisemakers! Thanks

Rokket · « **Reply #180 on:** 27 Dec , 2010, 00:53 »

actually, I posted to fast - a bit more sophisticated - VERY cool

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #181 on:** 27 Dec , 2010, 01:52 »

Quote from: rokket on 25 Dec , 2010, 17:07

Nice. what are pillferwillies?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #182 on:** 27 Dec , 2010, 12:54 »

I started preparations for the 37mm cannon, there are about 60 to 65 parts, the smallest PE parts are 0.5 by 0.8mm.....
I hope i will bring this to a good end..

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #183 on:** 27 Dec , 2010, 20:30 »

looks like nice detail

Greif · « **Reply #184 on:** 28 Dec , 2010, 02:01 »

Lots of parts there! Do you have an optivisor or somerhing like it?

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #185 on:** 28 Dec , 2010, 11:12 »

No i don`t have an optivisor, we`ll see how it goes....

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #186 on:** 29 Dec , 2010, 00:19 »

In that case your eyes are much better then mine my friend! Seriously, have fun building the 37mm, I am sure it will turn out great.

Ernest

Quote from: FoxbaT on 28 Dec , 2010, 11:12

No i don`t have an optivisor, we`ll see how it goes....

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #187 on:** 31 Dec , 2010, 08:05 »

The 3,7 is not finished yet, i still need to mount the seats, visors and some other small hinges/parts.

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #188 on:** 31 Dec , 2010, 08:37 »

Beautiful gun Karel!

Nice one-handed phtography too.

Do you have a pic from in front of the splinter shield?

Rokket · « **Reply #189 on:** 02 Jan , 2011, 01:21 »

mmmmmmmmm lovley

FoxbaT · « **Reply #190 on:** 02 Jan , 2011, 05:34 »

The 3,7 is finished.
The seats supposed to have holes in it, i made them with a 0.5mm drill.
I also `hollowed` the seats a bit by pressing a round object in them, and i added handles from streched sprue on the adjusting wheels.

Next job will be the even smaller 2cm`s, so i have to prepare myself mentally now....

TRM · « **Reply #191 on:** 02 Jan , 2011, 07:38 »

Fantastic work Karel!

Looking forward to watching the 2cm build!

Cheers!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #192 on:** 03 Jan , 2011, 07:45 »

Here are the parts needed for the 2cm`s (including Revell parts), the plastic barrels will be replaced by the brass barrels.
The gun shields were not present on the U995, so these will not be mounted.

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #193 on:** 05 Jan , 2011, 00:03 »

The 37mm is a real work of art Karel. Very cleanly built!

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #194 on:** 05 Jan , 2011, 06:58 »

Thanks Ernest,

in the meantime i finished the 2cm`s.

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #195 on:** 05 Jan , 2011, 18:28 »

Amazing work Karel!

Pat · « **Reply #196 on:** 05 Jan , 2011, 20:33 »

Absolutely gorgeous Karel!

But I see an awful flaw. Sorry.

You've done such a fantastic job on the armament, and the railings, and everything else so far in those pictures, that it sort of emphasizes that the deck is just plastic. Compared to to the terrific detail on the guns, the deck just doesn't stand up to the quality of the rest of it.

Please, please, do what I did (for a different reason, but same end result) and scrap the plastic deck and build your own deck out of real wood slats. It makes a huge difference for realism and with the detail of your guns, you'll be really happy with the result to go with them.

I'm making my hatches open, but you don't need to do that to get the same appearance. But having real wood decks, with the correct spacing between each slat to let the 'water' come through when it dives, and seeing the beams underneath the deck will really set off the beautiful work that you've done so far.

If you can't get wood slats there, you can get them from Lee Valley in Canada. They have cherry wood slats, 36" long by just a few mm wide and not much thicker than paper. Real easy to make a deck out of. When you scuff off the carboleum on the worn parts, you'll see real wood grain showing through. Your model deserves it with the detail you've done so far.

bracco_n · « **Reply #197 on:** 05 Jan , 2011, 21:30 »

Or you can get the one made by Nautilus. Pat I

Mr. Bill · « **Reply #198 on:** 05 Jan , 2011, 22:15 »

Hello Karel,

I have been admiring your work and want to join the others in congratulating you on your fine craftsmanship and great photography. It is a real pleasure to follow your project and I look forward to each new development.

Cheers,

Bill

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #199 on:** 06 Jan , 2011, 02:48 »

Quote from: Pat on 05 Jan , 2011, 20:33

Absolutely gorgeous Karel!

But I see an awful flaw. Sorry.

You've done such a fantastic job on the armament, and the railings, and everything else so far in those pictures, that it sort of emphasizes that the deck is just plastic. Compared to to the terrific detail on the guns, the deck just doesn't stand up to the quality of the rest of it.

Please, please, do what I did (for a different reason, but same end result) and scrap the plastic deck and build your own deck out of real wood slats. It makes a huge difference for realism and with the detail of your guns, you'll be really happy with the result to go with them.

I'm making my hatches open, but you don't need to do that to get the same appearance. But having real wood decks, with the correct spacing between each slat to let the 'water' come through when it dives, and seeing the beams underneath the deck will really set off the beautiful work that you've done so far.

If you can't get wood slats there, you can get them from Lee Valley in Canada. They have cherry wood slats, 36" long by just a few mm wide and not much thicker than paper. Real easy to make a deck out of. When you scuff off the carboleum on the worn parts, you'll see real wood grain showing through. Your model deserves it with the detail you've done so far.

I totally agree ; Karel your model is wonderful and Mr.Bill gave you the best words.it It would be worth rebuilding the deck !

Once painted, all your details will we highly up lightened.

all the best =)
Pepper-M

Author Topic: U-995 Mission accomplished (Read 150648 times)

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