AMP - Accurate Model Parts
SEA => SUBS: Uboats => TYPE VII => Topic started by: OldNoob on 29 Mar , 2013, 12:47
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Ok so here i go.
Im having a very hard time finding enough visual data to make an accurate model,, which is frustrating since this is a forum dedicated to Accuracy, I hope it will be ok.
So i have joined the hull and primed it.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8600186027_e88603257f_b.jpg)
As you can see there are still some modifications to the spill vents needed but i got impatient .
next- wrapping my mind around the best way to do the brass deck.
Also: Captain Rathke drew a Nazi coat of arms on the conning tower in his painting. Any thoughts on that?
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Howdy - well begun is half done! (Although, seriously, these boats are a lot of work!)
There's a lot of info (including visual) in the AMP library: http://amp.rokket.biz/lib_uboats.shtml (http://amp.rokket.biz/lib_uboats.shtml), especially the Illustrated Guide to Uboat Research and Dougie's amazing The Wolf Pack. Those should pretty much get you everything you need to actually build a 1:1 boat. (Just add a few million 1930s dollars and some steel.)
Coat of Arms - well, for my money, if you're doing U352, then you're doing U352 the way she was. I'd go for it. At AMP, we reproduce the war flag/ Kriegsmarine flag with the Hakenkreuz, but do not do the Nazi Party flag. We offer a non historic alternative with an Iron Cross, which has the flavor without the symbol. You could so that on the coat of arms.
(http://amp.rokket.biz/images/flags/wv_km-ic.png)
Perhaps it is the intention (history) behind what we build and display, but balanced with the end-effect. That said, what made you choose 352? There's the whole range of why here: some folks chose a boat because of the history, or a connection somehow to that boat, others because of "it's a good boat/cool accessories".
Keep pprogress pix!
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Well i guess my question was kind of vague. i wasn't totally asking with regard a political, or moral issue, but rather a accuracy issue. Below is the captains painting showing a very pronounced plaque on the front of the tower. I have yet to see it in an actual photo. Then again,, maybe those are just vents of some kind.
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/462/u352aquarellepeinteparl.jpg)
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Perhaps it is the intention (history) behind what we build and display, but balanced with the end-effect. That said, what made you choose 352? There's the whole range of why here: some folks chose a boat because of the history, or a connection somehow to that boat, others because of "it's a good boat/cool accessories".
Keep pprogress pix!
Well it is the, officially documented, U-boat wreck nearest to my location.
And i like the fact that many of the crew got off before it sank, considering the odds stacked against U-boat crewman.
If recall correctly 3/4ths of all German u-boat crews did not make it through the second world war alive.
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OldNoob....Have you checked this out... May help..
http://uboat.net/boats/u352.htm (http://uboat.net/boats/u352.htm)
Cheers/Regards Bill
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Be aware that many artistic renderings and even souveniers and other collectibles from the time can be very inaccurate. The eagle with swastika plaque shown in the painting I would bet was not on the original boat but added for flair, reminiscent of the bronze eagles used on some of the pre-war type II boats. I would personally need more proof like a picture or some other documentation before building a model with that in mind.
Regards,
Brian
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Hey OldNoob!
I knew i had something for you somewhere in my place (Thx Bill for reminding me!! ;D )
From "Dive into history Vol 3: U-Boats", enjoy:
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m130/s-germani/Uboats/IMGP2253.jpg)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m130/s-germani/Uboats/IMGP2255-1.jpg)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m130/s-germani/Uboats/IMGP2258-1.jpg)
(U-352's 20 mm anti-aircraft Gun. Salvaged in 1975)
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Hey OldNoob!
I knew i had something for you somewhere in my place (Thx Bill for reminding me!! ;D )
From "Dive into history Vol 3: U-Boats", enjoy:
(U-352's 20 mm anti-aircraft Gun. Salvaged in 1975)
Very NICE ! and Helpful Thank You.
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OldNoob....Have you checked this out... May help..
http://uboat.net/boats/u352.htm (http://uboat.net/boats/u352.htm)
Cheers/Regards Bill
Thank You
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Definitely some flood vent reworking needed.
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2116/u352.jpg)
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If appears that gun may have been painted black
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3109/2711354106_206ae4308d_o.jpg)
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U 132 had a Nazi symbol on the coat of arms. Here's a link, but the full pic (with Kapitan-leutnant Vogelsang sitting on compass housing) is in Squadron's "U boats in Action".
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9909/u132kiosqueetemblme.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9909/u132kiosqueetemblme.jpg)
Cheers
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U 132 had a Nazi symbol on the coat of arms. Here's a link, but the full pic (with Kapitan-leutnant Vogelsang sitting on compass housing) is in Squadron's "U boats in Action".
Cheers
Thank you.
Im wondering if the U-352 even had one displayed. and if it did was it on the front. or on the forward-side of the CT.
humm.
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ARRRRG! So what is the best way to repair the rivets? Been modifying the front spillways or Flood vents.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8626891072_f2d8735019_h.jpg)
Don't think i will move the Anchor bay.
I'm just not skilled enough to do it.
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Be aware that many artistic renderings and even souveniers and other collectibles from the time can be very inaccurate. The eagle with swastika plaque shown in the painting I would bet was not on the original boat but added for flair, reminiscent of the bronze eagles used on some of the pre-war type II boats. I would personally need more proof like a picture or some other documentation before building a model with that in mind.
Regards,
Brian
Thank You
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8629257210_2f28441e46_b.jpg)
My Kingdom for a set of mico files!
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OldNoob....Have you checked this out... May help..
http://uboat.net/boats/u352.htm (http://uboat.net/boats/u352.htm)
Cheers/Regards Bill
Thank You Bill. all help appreciated.
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I'm just guessing with this one.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8628330341_01712b4889_b.jpg)
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U 132 had a Nazi symbol on the coat of arms. Here's a link, but the full pic (with Kapitan-leutnant Vogelsang sitting on compass housing) is in Squadron's "U boats in Action".
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9909/u132kiosqueetemblme.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9909/u132kiosqueetemblme.jpg)
Cheers
That is actually an NSRL emblem, stands for Nationalsozialistischer Reichsbund f
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Noob,
According to U-boat.net and others, the emblem on U-352 was the coat of arms of the city of Flensburg.
I have had OK results printing the emblems on to decal paper or even water slide film for the obscure boats I have built. Let me know if you need a sheet of the water slide film, I have more than I could ever use because I had to buy something like 15 sheets minimum.
Regards,
Brian
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Noob,
According to U-boat.net and others, the emblem on U-352 was the coat of arms of the city of Flensburg.
I have had OK results printing the emblems on to decal paper or even water slide film for the obscure boats I have built. Let me know if you need a sheet of the water slide film, I have more than I could ever use because I had to buy something like 15 sheets minimum.
Regards,
Brian
Thank you i really appreciate the help and offer. I will keep that in mind , though it may take months before i am at that point in the build . LOL
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ARRRRG! So what is the best way to repair the rivets? Been modifying the front spillways or Flood vents.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8626891072_f2d8735019_h.jpg)
Don't think i will move the Anchor bay.
I'm just not skilled enough to do it.
Hi OldNoob.
I noticed you was reluctant to move the ancorbay, which is a pity. I changed it without too much modelling experience I was astonished how easy it was.
If you look at the photo I made of the old U- 995 back in 1953 you clearly see the anchor chain almost touching the hydroplane guard, with the Revell solution the anchor shall hit the hydroplane. I understand you are keen on accuracy, to me this detail is important.
Tore
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Hi OldNoob.
I noticed you was reluctant to move the ancorbay, which is a pity. I changed it without too much modelling experience I was astonished how easy it was.
If you look at the photo I made of the old U- 995 back in 1953 you clearly see the anchor chain almost touching the hydroplane guard, with the Revell solution the anchor shall hit the hydroplane. I understand you are keen on accuracy, to me this detail is important.
Tore
I am reconsidering it Tore. I'm going to have to replace the area around the circular vents due to too many misplaced drill holes. i just cant get a clean hole in the green putty.
So I may just go all out and rebuild that whole area. if i can figure out how to re-rivet it all.
(Plasti-Card collection is being readied)
Goodness guys this stuff is hard! i may have A.D.D. LOL
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Wrong tool for shaky hands
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8632934453_11a65cd486_b.jpg)
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Hi OldNoob.
You `ll manage, even if 99 % of the people admiring you finished model would not notice, you, having the knowledge, shall have the satisfaction of a correct boat. While being on the subject of green putty, if you have a closer look at my photo you shall see the starboard upper bow floodgates are not 3 as on your model, but 2. On the port side you have 3. These funny details are on all VIICs except present days U-995 which for some reason has wrongly 3 floodgates on each side.
Tore
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Hi OldNoob.
You `ll managed, even if 99 % of the people admiring you finished model would not notice, you, having the knowledge, shall have the satisfaction of a correct boat. While being on the subject of green putty, if you have a closer look at my photo you shall see the starboard upper bow floodgates are not 3 as on your model, but 2. On the port side you have 3. These funny detail are on all VIICs except present days U-995 which for some reason has wrongly 3 floodgates on each side.
Tore
Thanks Tore. Covering one flood gate just might be easier than drilling new ones, maybe i'll tackle that first . LOL
;D
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If you press fit and glue styrene rod into the old flood holes it will make drilling out new holes much easier where some of them overlap. I has the same issue when trying to fill with putty and drill. Also you might want to check out Bondo brand glazing/spot putty, it is available at any auto parts store and seems to harden up a little better that the squadron green.
If you are really concerned with accuracy at the bow of your boat you should check out the WEM floods and templates https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+172+Type+VII+UBoat+Flood+Drain+and+Vent+Holes+PE+7232/5432/#.UWQDssu9KK0 (https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+172+Type+VII+UBoat+Flood+Drain+and+Vent+Holes+PE+7232/5432/#.UWQDssu9KK0) I was quite intimidated the first time I used this set but it turned out great.
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If you press fit and glue styrene rod into the old flood holes it will make drilling out new holes much easier where some of them overlap. I has the same issue when trying to fill with putty and drill. Also you might want to check out Bondo brand glazing/spot putty, it is available at any auto parts store and seems to harden up a little better that the squadron green.
If you are really concerned with accuracy at the bow of your boat you should check out the WEM floods and templates https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+172+Type+VII+UBoat+Flood+Drain+and+Vent+Holes+PE+7232/5432/#.UWQDssu9KK0 (https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+172+Type+VII+UBoat+Flood+Drain+and+Vent+Holes+PE+7232/5432/#.UWQDssu9KK0) I was quite intimidated the first time I used this set but it turned out great.
Awesome tip thank you.
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How to go blind quickly.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8637306564_63db462a00_b.jpg)
This may not be the path i want to go.
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OldNoob -
That is not a bad job! In fact... well done!
Christopher
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OldNoob -
That is not a bad job! In fact... well done!
Christopher
Thanks Christopher
And the insanity continues....
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8637681100_f3370737b8_k.jpg)
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OldNoob -
I have found if you sand the inboard edges of the torpedo doors they look a little more realistic and prototype...
They were only some 5 mm in real life... so in scale...1:48 or 1:72 the edges should be quite thin...
Christopher
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OldNoob -
I have found if you sand the inboard edges of the torpedo doors they look a little more realistic and prototype...
They were only some 5 mm in real life... so in scale...1:48 or 1:72 the edges should be quite thin...
Christopher
Thanks for that advice. I made the mistake of gluing them shut though. ::)
i may fill the door gap some and make the doors a little bit flusher with the hull.
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Anyone know of better filler than the green stuff?
Seems it was the only filler the nearest hobby shop had.
It's apparent i will have to order something online.
The green putty is just too thick to spread. Fast drying is not a priority, smooth spreading is.
Thinking of getting this product.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31G31H0d7gL._SX300_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/3M-05095-Acryl-White-Putty-Tube/dp/B003P6I5KS (http://www.amazon.com/3M-05095-Acryl-White-Putty-Tube/dp/B003P6I5KS)
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OldNoob -
Cutex, MEK and other thinners can work well for thinning Green Putty.I use Nail Polish Remover to thin my putty. It works well, but be careful you do not mix it so strong it eats the plastic you are working with. Also be careful of fumes... Fumes are not good.
Christopher
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Excellent job w the bow repair OldNoob!
If you use gunze or tamya putties u can dilute them w their proper thinners or w liquid glue.
Congrats w the work done so far, keep it upp!
SG
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Im wondering if i keep pursuing historical accuracy if the model will get worse and worse looking LOL.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8099/8655188674_b1f5629e91_k.jpg)
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Hi OldNoob.
Rivets seems to be a detail which have the interest of modelbuilders. I remember the rivets as hardly visible and to my opinion Revell made the rivets too large. When you brownwash the surface some of the models looks like a tank from WW1. Below is my last VIIC (ex U 926) in a very revealling light. As you see the rivets are hardly visible. The second photo is a close up of my first VIIC (ex 995) which clearly shows the small rivets. As you see the struts ( some parts double riveted) are much more visible than the rivets. Ignore the upper casingplates they are incorrectly welded during restoration and have no rivets. To my opinion the ordinary welding seams on the pressurehull and saddletanks are more visible than the rivets.
Tore
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Hi OldNoob.
Rivets seems to be a detail which have the interest of modelbuilders. I remember the rivets as hardly visible and to my opinion Revell made the rivets too large. When you brownwash the surface some of the models looks like a tank from WW1. Below is my last VIIC (ex U 926) in a very revealling light. As you see the rivets are hardly visible. The second photo is a close up of my first VIIC (ex 995) which clearly shows the small rivets. As you see the struts ( some parts double riveted) are much more visible than the rivets. Ignore the upper casingplates they are incorrectly welded during restoration and have no rivets. To my opinion the ordinary welding seams on the pressurehull and saddletanks are more visible than the rivets.
Tore
That is Helpful and Welcome news!
i will be using possibly more than the recommended amount of paint to cover some of my errors in some areas. so maybe the rivets wont be as pronounced.
I was thinking also as i looked at the model. the rivets did look more like a WWI sub than WWII subs
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Ordered some Tamiya White putty.
My Green MMD putty has turned rock hard, in the tube, after only a month from purchase. >:(
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This is wrong!
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8656632533_3fb98fda5d_z.jpg)
Im not sure this is something i can correct.
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exhaust vent and rear spill gate mod
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8120/8656869907_78be3331ce_b.jpg)
not sure if this is entirely accurate.
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You guys think this vent is just obscured from view or that it is actually not there?
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Probably not there, some configs didn't cut all the "regular" floods. See the AMP Wolf Pack, also for info on exhaust and the saddle tank. here's some shots of my 557.
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/3slotsaddle_ext.jpg)
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/3slotsaddle_int.jpg)
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/saddleshape.gif)
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/pointy_saddle.jpg)
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/drainlip.jpg)
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/drainlip_new.jpg)
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/final/02_mid_stand2.jpg)
(http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/temp2.jpg)
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That was a nice build Rokket!
I look forward to when I can get back to my 1:35th scale cut-away. I use refs like your build as most excellent inspiration! I need to get one of these whole ships.
Christopher
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[grunt-grunt] oooooh, 1:35 cutaway niiiiiiiice!
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Nice work OldNoob, congratulations!
I'm following your construction model.
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8686105123_18c71d2841_b.jpg)
That white putty spreads nice,, but it shrinks like an old man swimming in the ocean on a winter day.
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Tamiya gray is my fav. Smooth and creamy like butter, doesn't shrink. Dries fairly hard, not crumbly at all, and sometimes a little "hot", but good!
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OldNoob remember u can dilute Tamiya putty w Tamiya lacquer thinner. Yep, i agree w Rokket, Tamiya gray doesn't shrink (much ;D ).
Standing by for new wip pics
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Starting on other side and anchor bay relocation. i wonder now if maybe i should of purchased the AMP PE kit for the torpedo doors.
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Well worth it, OldNoob..
Bill
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of COURSE you should! (oh, I might be biased...)
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AAARRRGGG! progression proceeding at an almost unmeasurable rate.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7364/9364969243_18819916d8_o.jpg)
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Sink Bollards or raise them?
Also...
Are there any secrets to gluing the brass fittings onto the brass deck? aside from just using CA?
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Getting back to the model this week.
Sadly, due to circumstances i will not be able to stay true to the historical accuracy of the U-352. My new goal is simple completion of the Model. Also, I have my eye on the XI but ive told myself "No. Not till you finish at least one model"
So it was either finish the Cutty Sark or the VII.
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That's fair. I have too much in my job queue...
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UGH! HELP
My model decided to take an unintentional human assisted flight. (UHAF) :o
I Utterly destroyed the propulsion and steering assembly which apparently tried to act like landing gear.
The props are busted and the are fins and planes are missing.
I suppose i could just dive into the dark arts of plasti-card again but i would much rather just buy some replacement parts if the price is not too high.
Can anyone provide some direction or suggestions? ( aside from "Don't knock your model around")
UPDATE: Found some props
http://www.hobbylinc.com/g-factor-german-u-boat-type-vii-brass-propellers-for-revell-plastic-model-ship-accessory-1:72-17201 (http://www.hobbylinc.com/g-factor-german-u-boat-type-vii-brass-propellers-for-revell-plastic-model-ship-accessory-1:72-17201)
(http://web4.hobbylinc.com/gr/gfm/gfm17201.jpg)
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Hi Oldnoob,
sorry to hear of your UHAF, around here the models of the members of my local club suffer from AAF, Arm Assisted Flight, normally ending with a non athletic meaning to hitting the wall! ;D
Slightly more serious, the G-Factor props are very popular on Type VIICs, there is room for improvement on them if you want.
Regards
Jon
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Hi OldNoob, hi Cap,
IMO the easiest way is to contact Revell directly, email the famous "Abteilung X" and tell them which parts you need (part numbers from instruction will be needed). They will help you. A friend of mine "destroyed" the "Balkongeraet" of his typenine-kit. It took two weeks and Revell provided him with replacement parts with no charge. Don't know how will be if you live outside Germany but it will worth the try.
Regards
Falo
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Appreciate the helpful replies . thats good news i will check that out falo.
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Hi OldNoob,
if needed here is the link to "Abteilung X" (Revell of Germany)
http://www.revell.de/service/service-formular/modellbau.html (http://www.revell.de/service/service-formular/modellbau.html)
Important is the right text column, translated from german to english if you (perhaps) need it:
"Thema" = for example: parts broke UBoat VII-C 1/72 scale
"Artikelnr." = product number of the Revell kit (for example "5011")
"Dokumente" = this is an upload link (for example) like photos, or scans if necessary anyway.
"Teil(e)-Nr." = parts number as shown in the kit instruction
As my friend reports (the mentioned guy with the broke IXC parts) the "Abteilung X" is very attentive and helpful.
Good luck and regards
Falo
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I think,, with enough Sprue, Plasticard, Superglue, Putty, Needles and Paint i just might be able to make it pass.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5552/14765641425_a3bc3b1b72_c.jpg)
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"We can rebuild him. We have the technology. We can make him better than he was. Better...stronger...."
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14588639599_19e1a6dcb0_c.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/14752545976_be20b2286e_c.jpg)
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Hi OldNoob,
looks good, I suppose you won't need the "Abteilung X" ("Department X")!
Regards
Falo
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A masterful repair Oldnoob! Almost ready to go back to sea
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Hi OldNoob,
looks good, I suppose you won't need the "Abteilung X" ("Department X")!
Regards
Falo
hopefully not. but i'm keeping that info at hand. Very helpful to know. TY
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Maybe i should of ordered the parts?
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5567/14598021607_7db3e9587a_c.jpg)
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The repairs are completed,, now its a matter of getting back to actually building the model.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3895/14598326649_52df5c88fa_c.jpg)
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Nice. Much stronger. 6 Milion Dllar Man...today that would be like $200 million!
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..And would probably have Ryan Gosling's face.. ;D
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..And would probably have Ryan Gosling's face.. ;D
I had to google that name. Apparently he's considered the coolest man on the planet according to GQ magazine. Go Figure.
Anyway. TY for all the compliments
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Experiencing some confusion. Some sources state that the u-352 may have had a snorkel. But the wreck site doesn't seem to indicate that it did. however most of the external structures are gone.( and apparently a lot of "Trophies" have been striped off her as well :( ) IF it did indeed have a snorkel then i have the wrong model to complete the u-352. But considering it was sunk in 1942 it really should not have the snorkel correct?
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Putty, putty, putty, putty, dizzy, dizzy.....instructions said something something ventilation, ZZZZZZ
If you think it looks ugly now,, just wait till it's done. ;)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2896/14606281638_9cb467afee_c.jpg)
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Hi there,
Good work with your model. You are correct. Since U 352 was sunk in May 1942 there is no way it could have had a snorchel.
Cheers,
Dougie
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Apparently, this is a photo of some of the survivors of U-352 after being brought aboard the cutter. They look chilled to the bone.
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Keep breaking stuff >:(
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/14800191855_b1a1afc6c8_c.jpg)
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Hi Oldnoob
Oops, let me try that again.
Schatton Modellbau 7241 Periscope and air intake for Revell U-boat (http://www.lonewulfmodels.co.uk/sub_category.php?c_id=28&sc_id=92#)
Regards
Jon
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Thank you for the link. apparently with the wooden pegs that i call fingers, my model should be completely made of metal.
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Hi OldNoob
I which case maybe this will help (http://www.scaleplasticandrail.com/kaboom/index.php/all-things-maritime/1350-scale/kit-reviews/1834-1-350-u-boat-type-viic-from-jasmine-model) ;D
Regards
Jon
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Hi OldNoob, hi Cap,
I can warmly recommend the Schatton parts. Purchased his periscopes and barrels for the typeseven/41, both of turned metal if I'm not mistaken. If it will be of interest to you I can take some pictures of them.
Regards
Falo
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Hi falo,
yes please if you could I have a pic of their type IX scopes but not the type VIIs
Regards
Jon
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Hi Cap, hi OldNoob,
photo of periscopes and AA-Guns from Schatton for the typeseven/41 (Scale 1/72).
Regards
Falo
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Those look really nice. Im going to explore that a bit.
Ive been trying to just use the kit. but i wondered why the model was so lacking in detail on the periscope base, then after doing some research i found that apparently the were many different configurations on the scope base.
So i just chose one style and decided to go with it. And im guessing i have to ad a compass to the front of it as well.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14642283378_19da562b13_c.jpg)
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(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14830451365_7b71dbe4b5_c.jpg)
now onward to the compass or what ever that thingy was that was attached to it.
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(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/14831600955_230bce268d_c.jpg)
Not 100% accurate . but it will do.
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Can anyone tell it this is a Marking or a shadow?
*update* I think, from my research, it may have been a board placed behind the rungs on the tower during the commissioning ceremony to protect the paint from boot marks. It's possible these photos were taken at its commissioning. Seems to be on one side only.
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Hi OldNoob and falo
I would suggest it was black paint behind and on the ladder rungs to hide the boot marks, the same as the black band at the bottom of the tower, which can't be seen from the angle of your photos.
Whilst a few boats continued this practice on patrols, most were painted with the same colour as the rest of the tower.
As an observation this places the pictures most likely in the Baltic in 1941 during training. It is possible that the yellow training stripe is not visible due to the poor resolution of the picture. Or it is just prior to or just after training.
If you are painting her during active service, which by your excellent weathering on the hull, you are, then I would be inclined not to put it on.
falo - Many thanks for the scope picture.
Regards
Jon
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Ah! Thank You Captain, thats very helpful.
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Progressing slowly
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14658603810_dcc4a85e98_c.jpg)
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I Literally know nothing about submarines. But , i have learned that , IT'S NOT TEAK! ::) Seriously where in the world did i get the idea that the armor slats were teak? :o ;D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14872586793_c28233c64e.jpg)
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Hi Oldnoob
Oops, let me try that again.
Schatton Modellbau 7241 Periscope and air intake for Revell U-boat (http://www.lonewulfmodels.co.uk/sub_category.php?c_id=28&sc_id=92#)
Regards
Jon
wonder what shipping would be?
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Got impatient. Stole periscope form the IX kit. :P Guess i'll cross that bridge when i come to it.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3883/14861262555_404ef8f2f1_z.jpg)
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I Literally know nothing about submarines. But , i have learned that , IT'S NOT TEAK! ::) Seriously where in the world did i get the idea that the armor slats were teak? :o ;D
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14872586793_c28233c64e.jpg)
The slats actually were wood, not teak but probably a cheaper wood with the black preservative like the deck. These were to keep the crew from sticking to the metal casing in freezing temperatures.
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I Literally know nothing about submarines. But , i have learned that , IT'S NOT TEAK! ::) Seriously where in the world did i get the idea that the armor slats were teak? :o ;D
The slats actually were wood, not teak but probably a cheaper wood with the black preservative like the deck. These were to keep the crew from sticking to the metal casing in freezing temperatures.
Im sooo confused. LOL
so they should be black?
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I'm in uncharted waters. I don't know what i'm doing.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/14868590105_62d9c42c61.jpg)
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I Literally know nothing about submarines. But , i have learned that , IT'S NOT TEAK! ::) Seriously where in the world did i get the idea that the armor slats were teak? :o ;D
The slats actually were wood, not teak but probably a cheaper wood with the black preservative like the deck. These were to keep the crew from sticking to the metal casing in freezing temperatures.
Im sooo confused. LOL
so they should be black?
Whatever color you are painting the deck. I have seen these painted the same color as the seat aroung the wintergarten too which is usually brown.
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:) Hi!
The deck on most U-Booten was a cheap pine. Painted with a black preservative. My Father a U-Boot Veteran, has said it was sticky after it was first applied. As time went on the colour changed to dark gray and as wear and tear went to showing some of the pine in well traveled areas, Hope that gives you some ideas for weathering. The Trum deck was the same and the wood planks on the sides of the Trum as well. Regards,
Dan
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:) Hi!
The deck on most U-Booten was a cheap pine. Painted with a black preservative. My Father a U-Boot Veteran, has said it was sticky after it was first applied. As time went on the colour changed to dark gray and as wear and tear went to showing some of the pine in well traveled areas, Hope that gives you some ideas for weathering. The Trum deck was the same and the wood planks on the sides of the Trum as well. Regards,
Dan
Thank You Dan! very helpful indeed!
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LOVELY rust, just right!
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Your work looks great so far, keep up the good effort! For what its worth, in May 1992 I spent a day as a guest of the Point Loma submarine base in San Diego. Among the other guests were several DKM veterans, including Heinz Dressel who severed on U-595 and was captured by allied forces. Herr Dressel was very pleasant and willing to talk for hours about his time on U-boats during WWII. One of the many questions I asked him about was the wood used on the deck on U-595. He was certain it was teak and said at the time he was surprised that Germany was using such a valuable and hard to obtain material during wartime. Anyway, that is what he said about the deck - I don't have any way to confirm his statement. Part of our visit to Point Loma included a guided tour of an Los Angeles Class SSN (USS Dallas or USS Houston - I can't remember) - Heinz had everyone laughing with his comparisons of a modern nuclear sub to a wartime Type VIIC! He really had the crew going a few times!
Cheers,
Bill
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What a great experience Bill, thanks for sharing. Which I was there!
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Does anyone know of a brass or photo-etched railing kit for this model?
I did a search but could not find anything specific
Could try making them myself but i really really suck at getting the dimensions correct and at soldering brass.
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Hi OldNoob,
here are two hyperlinks to "Shapeways" (3D printing service). This printing service was mentioned in another thread here.
Plastic:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/GSVNY5SJW/u-boot-wintergarten-1-72?li=productGroup&optionId=56258206 (http://www.shapeways.com/product/GSVNY5SJW/u-boot-wintergarten-1-72?li=productGroup&optionId=56258206)
and brass version:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/WZ5CJHLY8/wintergarten-1-72-brass-version?li=more-from-shop&optionId=56258207 (http://www.shapeways.com/product/WZ5CJHLY8/wintergarten-1-72-brass-version?li=more-from-shop&optionId=56258207)
Regards
falo
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Hi OldNoob,
here are two hyperlinks to "Shapeways" (3D printing service). This printing service was mentioned in another thread here.
Plastic:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/GSVNY5SJW/u-boot-wintergarten-1-72?li=productGroup&optionId=56258206 (http://www.shapeways.com/product/GSVNY5SJW/u-boot-wintergarten-1-72?li=productGroup&optionId=56258206)
and brass version:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/WZ5CJHLY8/wintergarten-1-72-brass-version?li=more-from-shop&optionId=56258207 (http://www.shapeways.com/product/WZ5CJHLY8/wintergarten-1-72-brass-version?li=more-from-shop&optionId=56258207)
Regards
falo
30 dollars is not bad for brass.
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Too Crusty?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5724/21833461945_f51b776db9_h.jpg)
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Perfect to my eyes, well done!
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Hi OldNoob,
Hmm 43 days at the end of the first patrol, very possible.
Very nice work.
Regards
Jon
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Thank you for all the compliments.
However,, there comes a time after breaking some little plastic thingy 10 times in 3 places....... that my patience is tested and my desire for accuracy wanes and i try to find the sturdiest, quickest fix. ;D :P
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/701/21865451251_1653e67fb8_h.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/580/21688101149_a7bca6574e_h.jpg)
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OK now in the build comes the point where I just goof off a bit ;D
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/621/21876652095_c110cab42c_c.jpg)
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Hi OldNoob
Where is Doug McClure (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073260/?ref_=nm_flmg_act_52) when you need him! :D
Regards
Jon
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Cap,
you mean Doug Mclure who was also known as Commander Trampas on board of the "USS Caprona"? ;)
Regards
falo
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While "The Enemy Below" is a submarine, the enemy above is rust :P
But seriously, this model build is really my first true experience mimicking rust. It's possible i've overkilled it.
Hopefully though, the rust will get lighter and lighter over the coming weeks and months due to it being water based paint and markers
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5821/21698006210_ae296d8144_k.jpg)
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Hi falo,
Yup, where else could you find a submarine and a dinosaur?
regards
Jon
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I do like a rusty u-boat, so not complaints from me, in fact, I think you cracked it!
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Quick question. If a U-boat was on patrol for a long while would there be a typical "Water Line" AKA "Scum Line" AKA "Slime Lime" AKA "Algae Line ?
ive been researching , googling,, i just can't find anything definite, image wise.
understandably there would be marked and visible water line on a sub that's been docked for a while.
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OldNoob you will like this link:
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=44446
Cheers
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Hi OldNoob,
That is a good question, I've wondered about this for a few years. I think photos show that slime and other plantlife grows on the lower hull (particularly at the waterline) quite quickly. The anti-fouling paint the Kriegsmarine used was not effective in preventing this.
I think you may be asking how much growth would occur if a U-boat has been constantly on the move on patrol. Would the growth still build up if a boat is on the move? I would guess (and it is just a guess) that growth on the waterline would still occur but at a reduced rate compared with sitting slill in harbour.
There are some good photos of U 99 dry-docked after patrol in which the boat has a lot of lighter areas of the hull. U 99 tended not to be sitting in harbour for extended periods so my guess is these lighter areas of weathering on the lower hull happened to U 99 when on patrol.
Given the extent of rust (nice job!) I would think you would also have to go to town on the lower hull too.
Cheers,
Dougie
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Thanks for the Help Dougie and SG
This is an interesting photo from the link SG shared. It's a movie prop i'm not sure how accurate it is.
There seems to be a ever so slight greenish tented area running along what i would assume is the area of the waterline.
(http://s46.radikal.ru/i111/0901/bc/8e0fd5bbc618.jpg)
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Pretty much accurate I assume. Look at the waterline of the first two boats from the right:
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m130/s-germani/Uboats/foto_5.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/s-germani/media/Uboats/foto_5.jpg.html)
My suggestion is not to overdo the algae effect at the waterline, do paint some algae but "keep a low profile".
I would avoid this ;D :
http://www.navsource.org/archives/09/28/09280504.jpg (http://www.navsource.org/archives/09/28/09280504.jpg)
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/49/ed/7f/49ed7f7b7033a32fcbbc182a4cff8781.jpg (https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/49/ed/7f/49ed7f7b7033a32fcbbc182a4cff8781.jpg)
in favour of something like this:
http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=192.15
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Great Pic. Thanks SG!
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Should i even attempt this?? are the burnt fingertips worth it? ???
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/681/21962946616_0cf825da1f_b.jpg)
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Hi OldNoob,
Just think of the end result though!
Regards,
Jon
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Hi OldNoob,
Just think of the end result though!
Regards,
Jon
LOL!
That's what i'm afraid of ;D
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I'm coming to the conclusion that you submarine modeler types may be in need of some form of medication. :P ;) ;D
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/727/21802415278_94ec2bfe94_b.jpg)
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I'm not sure, it's a lot of work for something that doesn't feel much stronger than the plastic. I know one thing for sure i need to buy some flux before i attempt it again.(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/771/21805165119_c95ae64ef6_h.jpg)
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W E L L D O N E O L D N O O B!!
I like the screw/plaque tecnique for holding the rods, never seen before! Excellent result, now go n get that flux! ;D
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"I'TS MADNESS I TELL YOU,,,MADNESS!"
It's a good thing i didn't try to do the wintergarden, i would of run out of rod and nerve ;)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/613/22011188655_e84b74fc19_k.jpg)
I guess i'll mix up some vinegar and peroxide to etch the brass a bit before painting.
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Great job on those railings! It's an inspiration to see some soldered up so nicely!
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Thanks Tristan
I made the mistake of opening the wrong drawer on my parts bin,, and this sort of happened..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/604/22025245461_5a6fc6bac1_k.jpg)
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Very well done OldNoob!
Question: where did you get the rings? any reference number? which diameter/caliber?
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Very well done OldNoob!
Question: where did you get the rings? any reference number? which diameter/caliber?
Thanks SG
.8mm inside diameter and 1.3mm outside dia. I found that packet at an old hobby store that was going out of business. I haven't been able to find this size anywhere locally these days.
But HobbyLobby may carry it. Part number JFC0g-1.5g
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/757/21396336884_d2638853a3_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/672/21832363969_1e875126f4_b.jpg)
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Interesting, thanks a lot!
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Hi all,
Beads available @ Choosybeads.co.uk (http://www.choosybeads.co.uk/beadalon-jfc0g-15g-crimp-beads-size-0-gold-plated-small-pack-257-p.asp)
Regards
Jon
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I have several rolls of corona wire left over from my copier repair days. Both gold and stanless ranging from 0.100mm to 0.070mm
Are these wires too thin?. I'm pretty sure the 0.07mm wire is too thin but the .1mm?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/599/22008418946_02cc8aa299_k.jpg)
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Think im going to go with a thicker cable, .1mm just looks too thin even though it actually might be more accurate.
I think .3mm looks better
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5718/22075082082_2235c070c9_b.jpg)
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Trying to do diesel soot with a brush. may have to scrape and start over. LOL
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5792/21420304713_ffca86d0da_o.jpg)
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Wow that brass rod and solder is surprisingly strong. If i had tried to use the plastic railing, i would of broken it a hundred times by now ;D
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/584/22028185476_a140083b5e_o.jpg)
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I messed up. but im kinda burnt out on it so think i'll step away from it for a while.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/610/22061534665_9b3cc7f651_k.jpg)
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I'm done, far as i can go with my bad eyesight and shakes. Don't look to close, errors abound.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/667/23011915444_b2931265d1_o.jpg)
Humm,, ya know,,, the further away i get the better it looks. At 30+ feet, it looks awesome. :P :D
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creative decal cutting
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5744/21903100098_814b332d77_b.jpg)
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so apparently, not done yet..
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5757/21475575974_38467b2c13_b.jpg)
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This should do nicely
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5810/21928391888_ca05931c83_c.jpg)
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"Captain!.. They just disappeared!"
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5703/22126657031_0664eff5c9_h.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/664/22776009041_daba59416a_b.jpg)
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Wow I love the idea of mounting them on the wall like that. Looks like you have space for a 1/32 type ix or something above that gato.
Excellent job on the paint work, Looks fantastic.
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Excellent work OldNoob, very convincing and perfectly weathered boat!
Thanks for sharing the techniques you used for building the model!
Now, what's next? ;D
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Wow I love the idea of mounting them on the wall like that. Looks like you have space for a 1/32 type ix or something above that gato.
Excellent job on the paint work, Looks fantastic.
Excellent work OldNoob, very convincing and perfectly weathered boat!
Thanks for sharing the techniques you used for building the model!
Now, what's next? ;D
Thank You Guys!
I had hoped to fill the top space with one of the big Lindberg Japanese Submarines, but i can't seem to find one that is affordable.
I wrote Round2models to inquire if there were plans to re-release the IJN I-53 and I-20, but as of yet they have not replied.