Author Topic: Iceonaboys type VIIC build 1.72 (Read 19058 times)

iceonaboy · « **on:** 30 Apr , 2011, 13:08 »

I have started the build of the 1.72 type VIIC

. Its in the early stages of oil canning at the moment but as promised, I will try and keep everyone posted on my progress . I hope for success, and maybe my boat can come at least close to some of the boats I have seen displayed on this forum.

Please give any tips and advice if you want. I would be very grateful to get all feedback and hopefully help along the way. I am sure its going to be a long, long build and I certainly wont be hurrying any part.
I have pictures and I have tried to post them, but I keep getting the message that the file is too large, even though I have resized the pictures

Sorry!

NZSnowman · « **Reply #1 on:** 30 Apr , 2011, 14:36 »

Have you try uploading your pictures to Imageshack?

NZSnowman · « **Reply #2 on:** 30 Apr , 2011, 17:20 »

Who giving you the message saying file too large?

Imageshack has a option not to resize, also I know that using Imageshack you can you can use a Thumbnail. I used this option if the picture is large.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #3 on:** 01 May , 2011, 01:51 »

As soon as I hit post, a message appears saying error, your file is too large, max size is 150 kb. I cant understand it as I have never had problems uploading pictures to the web before and no one else seems to be having problems

bracco_n · « **Reply #4 on:** 01 May , 2011, 09:39 »

Which boat are you trying to portrait mate?

iceonaboy · « **Reply #5 on:** 01 May , 2011, 10:50 »

I have numerous pictures to show. My 1.72 VIIC, 1.144 VIIC/41 and my visit to the U 505 exhibit in Chicago. Its darned frustrating

bracco_n · « **Reply #6 on:** 01 May , 2011, 12:00 »

I meant which boats are you recreating, which U-numerals

NZSnowman · « **Reply #7 on:** 01 May , 2011, 14:21 »

Quote from: iceonaboy on 01 May , 2011, 01:51

As soon as I hit post, a message appears saying error, your file is too large, max size is 150 kb. I cant understand it as I have never had problems uploading pictures to the web before and no one else seems to be having problems

From that I can see above, are you able to upload the picture to Imageshack first, before posting it in the forum?

The line of code from Imageshack for the forum should look something like "http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6039/new3d.jpg"

iceonaboy · « **Reply #8 on:** 01 May , 2011, 15:46 »

Sorry Bracco, didnt get you there, I havent really decided on which boat to do but I think U96 is my fave cos I got the decals from AMP . Dougie very kindly sent me instructions for uploading to photobucket. I tried that and they want money. I went for the free option and after waiting 10 minutes for my picture to upload I gave up. I am just gonna put it all down as a bad joke and give up trying to post pictures. I have never had any trouble doing the same on any other web site so I dunno what the problem is. Sorry to have posted a thread about my build and now I cant follow up on it

iceonaboy · « **Reply #9 on:** 01 May , 2011, 16:04 »

Aha, thanks Dougie, it has worked. I was clicking additional options and searching on my computer for my pictures. I tried the insert image icon first and it wouldnt let me paste the url but photobucket has worked. You are indeed "the man"

iceonaboy · « **Reply #10 on:** 01 May , 2011, 16:15 »

Right, I am on a roll now

I visited the U505 exhibit in Chicago a couple of years ago and it was awesome

unfortunately, its really dark in the room. I take it thats to stop people taking pics so you have to buy from them. I took a few anyway

[/img]

iceonaboy · « **Reply #11 on:** 02 May , 2011, 10:52 »

Im gonna take my time with the 1.72 boats and I have a few 1.144 kits to practise on.
I honestly cant believe the amount I have learned from this forum. I had never heard of blackwashing, filters, rust pigments, to name just a few. I would like to thank every one of you for the friendly, helpful advice and tips that have been selflessly given with no grudge whatsoever.
I made a mess of the first 1.144 build mainly with the blackwash "staining" as can be seen below

I have since learned a bit more about when to apply washes and over what coating, and I have now started another 1.144. This time a VIIC

A bit overzealous with the cutting of one of the floodholes. I`ll have to see if I can fix that somehow.

I will keep you all posted with this and the 1.72 kit if your interested. P

iceonaboy · « **Reply #12 on:** 02 May , 2011, 10:54 »

Oops! Musta hit post by mistake

Was just saying if you want to comment or give advice, I would be really grateful, thanks guys

NZSnowman · « **Reply #13 on:** 02 May , 2011, 14:19 »

Iceonaboy, did you take any pictures of the torpedoes displays at U-505? Would be keen to have a look.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #14 on:** 02 May , 2011, 16:20 »

This is all I got mate. It was really dark in the exhibit

. I think they must have done that deliberately , so that you have to buy the tourist pictures. I am a tight bugger

, so I tried taking some of my own pictures. They are a bit dark , but you can still make out the beautiful lines of the boat

My ex posing, looking bored with it all. I was loving it!

Have you seen this?
http://www.msichicago.org/whats-here/exhibits/u-505/

iceonaboy · « **Reply #15 on:** 03 May , 2011, 03:31 »

Im still at the "oil canning " stage of the 1.72 build, which as you know , can become quite tedious, so I have carried on with the 1.144 VIIC . I have now built the lower hull and primed the whole lot

hope you like my repair to the flood hole. I melted a piece of sprue and glued it into the space. It seems to work ok .

Kptlt. Wolfgang Ott · « **Reply #16 on:** 03 May , 2011, 18:46 »

Hello Leth, The pictures you took of the oil canning of your 1/72's saddle tanks are awesome, I am hoping mine come out so good. I will post some pics when I have a chance, but it is slow going. Keep up the great work Shipmate!!

Romain

Anakin · « **Reply #17 on:** 06 May , 2011, 11:05 »

Quote from: iceonaboy on 02 May , 2011, 16:20

My ex posing, looking bored with it all. I was loving it!

I have same kind of pictures also...

With U-995...

iceonaboy · « **Reply #18 on:** 06 May , 2011, 11:56 »

Thanks Romain, I hope it turns out ok. I look forward to seeing your pics too. ;)I am building the 1.144 as I go, cos its such a long job to "oil can" the 1.72 hull. I just do a bit on each to vary my time cos I get bored with scraping all the time $:-\$ . I will post more pics soon.
Anakin, get yer pics of U995 up , will ya? Id love to see them . I was just disappointed that the U505 exhibit was so dark. Its ok when you are there, but for pictures, Its a dead loss!

iceonaboy · « **Reply #19 on:** 07 May , 2011, 02:29 »

Been doing a bit more of the old oil canning and got some more pics.
Hope Im doing ok $:-\$

Sorry about the bits of scrapings still lying about the hull. I am having a real battle with them as to who owns the spare bedroom and they are winning

Rokket · « **Reply #20 on:** 07 May , 2011, 17:47 »

Lot of work but looking good

iceonaboy · « **Reply #21 on:** 08 May , 2011, 05:12 »

Thanks Wink, thats praise indeed coming from a master like yourself

I have another little side project Im working on, just again, to practise techniques. See what you think,

Im not really that much into modelling armour as U boats is my passion, but I wanted to try out different effects. I used brown wash, some black wash, dust and finally dry brushing, which I may have overdone a touch,

but hey, its all experience, eh?

Anakin · « **Reply #22 on:** 08 May , 2011, 09:05 »

Quote from: iceonaboy on 06 May , 2011, 11:56

Anakin, get yer pics of U995 up , will ya? Id love to see them .

U wanna see my ex?

Sorry i couldn

Anakin · « **Reply #23 on:** 08 May , 2011, 12:32 »

OK here is the link... Sorry about ORON...

http://oron.com/3455ssuzpzoa/boot.rar.html

It

FoxbaT · « **Reply #24 on:** 08 May , 2011, 20:35 »

Hi Leth,

The oil canning looks good, but watch out for those edges as marked on the picture.

This will remain visible after painting, try to make these edges a bit smoother by sanding them, i know it`s a lot of work but it will be worth it in the end

Karel

iceonaboy · « **Reply #25 on:** 09 May , 2011, 00:20 »

Thanks Karel, I am glad to get any help I can, as I dont want to ruin the boat. Thats why I have so many side projects going on. I intend to take my time with the 1.72 boat whilst practising on cheaper easier to obtain kits. Any advice from top modellers like yourselves is greatly appreciated

iceonaboy · « **Reply #26 on:** 09 May , 2011, 00:25 »

Thanks Anakin, but Oron wants me to pay to view the pictures

Can you not put them on photobucket? I got directed there by Dougie, and it seems to be a pretty good site for sharing pictures.

Rokket · « **Reply #27 on:** 09 May , 2011, 01:48 »

Ice, I really like the tank weathering! The chipping is especially nice, a good amount of it, but edges are subtle. And you've got the perfect experimenting attitude!

iceonaboy · « **Reply #28 on:** 09 May , 2011, 02:55 »

Thanks Wink, and the day just got better. The postman delivered a nice big Gato to my door

Anakin · « **Reply #29 on:** 09 May , 2011, 08:52 »

Photobucket as you requested...

http://s1096.photobucket.com/albums/g336/Anak1n/?start=all

-Anakin-

iceonaboy · « **Reply #30 on:** 09 May , 2011, 15:36 »

Nice pics mate, now wheres the ex?

Anakin · « **Reply #31 on:** 10 May , 2011, 08:05 »

Quote from: iceonaboy on 09 May , 2011, 15:36

Nice pics mate, now wheres the ex?

She

iceonaboy · « **Reply #32 on:** 10 May , 2011, 08:53 »

I suppose its all part of the learning curve, but I had finished the 1.144 boat and wanted to give it a gloss coat for decal fixing and washes. This is what happened,

This is the offending tin of varnish
[img][http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x421/iceonaboy/IMG_0369.jpg/img]

The varnish caused paint to run and melted some of the paint .Has anyone else come across this problem?

iceonaboy · « **Reply #33 on:** 10 May , 2011, 08:55 »

Sorry, dont know why the varnish pic didnt load

Anakin · « **Reply #34 on:** 10 May , 2011, 09:06 »

Quote from: iceonaboy on 10 May , 2011, 08:53

Has anyone else come across this problem?

Sorry to see that... I have been using Vallejo acrylics and Johnson plastic floor wax for varnish and no problems...

Rokket · « **Reply #35 on:** 11 May , 2011, 01:30 »

Real varnish has yellowing and eating problems, tho I must say i'm surprised a Humbrol spray went bad. I agree with Anakin, use Vallejo or Future Floor Wax. I've never used any Vallejo, but only hear really, really good things about their paints. I've used a little Future (Aus equiv by Johnson & Johnson) and it was cool. My bottle had a slight tint but did not tint when applied. It can also be taken off with window cleaner or ammonia, so it's very safe! In this 1:144 case, the effect is actually pretty cool weathering! (at least in the pix...)

iceonaboy · « **Reply #36 on:** 11 May , 2011, 02:03 »

Sorry my pics didnt come out that clear. To be honest , its not that cool when you see it up close. Some of the paint has rippled and its made the light grey run into the darker grey. I have come to the conclusion that I overdone the varnish

, cos the other side of the hull is not as bad. I think also, I should have left the paint longer to dry. I had touched up some parts just a few hours before. I am going to experiment again with spraying with a lot more care. I will try out the floor wax. Do you thin that down and use your airbrush to apply it?
Hey, at the very least, this build might help some other novice modeller to learn from my mistakes

Anakin · « **Reply #37 on:** 11 May , 2011, 08:09 »

You must thin that with ammonia containing window cleaner (Windex, Windus or Ajax) to get it through. And you can clean the airbrush with that cleaner too... Add some Tamiya Flat Base to get matte finish.
1 part Flat Base + 3 parts Jonhson = really matte
1 part Flat Base + 10 parts Jonhson = matte
1 part Flat Base + 15 parts Jonhson = half shiny / half matte

-Anakin-

Rokket · « **Reply #38 on:** 12 May , 2011, 01:04 »

thanks Anakin, I've saved those formulas for "future" use (HA!)

iceonaboy · « **Reply #39 on:** 12 May , 2011, 03:13 »

Forgive me a question Anakin. You say add flat base for a matt effect? I thought the whole idea of varnishing the kit was for washes and decal fixing. I want to understand when and where to add effects, so that I can get it right.

I forgot to add the decals on the tank and when I did , I got the dulling of the border which apparently comes from the backing not being able to adhere to a matt background. I was also told that washes flow better on a gloss coat.

I have begun trying to rescue my 1.144 boat, though it might be too far gone and destined for the final dive into the depths of my wheelie bin

Anakin · « **Reply #40 on:** 12 May , 2011, 07:01 »

Yes. You use varnish / clear coat for applying decals and for base to weathering. After that you can apply a matte layer. You

iceonaboy · « **Reply #41 on:** 12 May , 2011, 07:58 »

Yeah, I hate gloss finishes on kits. Nothing is gloss apart from, as you say new cars and Im sure wartime boats would have been matt, although maybe I will be corrected.

I just wanted to gloss the boat for washes and decals, then I was going to weather it and finally seal it with a matt varnish. I tried a small jar of Humbrol gloss coat and thinned it and applied with my airbrush with no problems. I think maybe a lighter hand with the spray can might give better results.

I have been using Rustall blackwash and it seems very thin. I applied it over the whole boat and then wiped off, and to be honest , more or less the whole lot came off, leaving a not very convincing look. $:-\$ I am going to try a few coats of this blackwash, plus I have ordered some MIG darkwash. Certainly the MIG brownwash is a lot thicker, but for the hull of the boat , maybe not the best, as it stains everything brown. I am still a bit unsure as to the best way to apply washes, and filters are an even bigger enigma to me. I mean what is the point of filters? Why not just use a different colour in the first place?

iceonaboy · « **Reply #42 on:** 12 May , 2011, 08:44 »

I had another go at the VIIC/41 after repainting . Its quite difficult to scale down rusting effects with out overdoing it, but as I keep saying, these boats are all dispensable, as its practise for the big un

Any feedback good or bad is very welcome as I have to learn from my mistakes.

a wee bit wobbly with the camera, sorry

bracco_n · « **Reply #43 on:** 12 May , 2011, 13:32 »

Looks pretty decent to me, it's just a matter of keep practising, keep learning. Keep it up

iceonaboy · « **Reply #44 on:** 13 May , 2011, 14:11 »

I have been practising again with a military vehicle model and tried the Rustall black wash and I can honestly say. I think its absolute rubbish. I have gloss coated the subject, applied numerous coats of the blackwash, and all it does is pool, even on flat surfaces. I had a problem before with one of the 1.144 boats where I left the blackwash to dry on its own. The result was a horrible staining effect. I then tried mopping up the excess but found no blackwash remaining in the crevices.
I read a review of Rustall and the guy said it did appear thin, but apply a few coats and magical results will follow. I can tell you. They wont! I have applied coat after coat and still sod all.
I am awaiting the delivery of some Mig darkwash, and am sure that this will deliver, as all their other products are really good.
Im sure some of you will want to make up your own mind, but I gotta say, in my opinion, stay away from Rustall. Its a waste of money!

Rokket · « **Reply #45 on:** 13 May , 2011, 22:59 »

Never sued either, great to hear reviews

iceonaboy · « **Reply #46 on:** 14 May , 2011, 00:22 »

Thanks Wink, what kind of blackwash do you use? You always get great results.Do you mix your own? I was just a tad disappointed as I thought that the wash was going to be the answer to all my problems. When I was a kid, I made kits, painted them with my brush , applied the decals, and could never understand why they didnt look as good as the ones in magazines. Now I am learning all these new techniques and its just frustrating when I try one and it dont work

I am not giving up right enough. I will wait for the Mig wash to arrive and see how that performs.

Dont worry rant/review over

iceonaboy · « **Reply #47 on:** 14 May , 2011, 02:34 »

Just after I wrote that, the Mig darkwash arrived. I gave the model a quick going over and I can honestly say, thats more like it

. I would definately recommend the MIG product.

It gives a good solid covering which flows into all your nooks and crannys. The idea is to wipe off the excess with thinners after it has dried.

Dont get me wrong, the Rustall pack has good points. The rust effect itself is very good, and the dust is good for giving texture to rust as its super fine. I just dont think much of the blackwash included

If anyone else has any views on washes, I would love to hear, and I hope some modellers can benifit from my mistakes

Rokket · « **Reply #48 on:** 14 May , 2011, 23:28 »

Hey ice,

I love you boyhood description of modelmaking. I did that with ships, WWII BB and the like, had quite a production line going! Turned out a lot of...sinkable ones!

I use homemade wash, nothing special, and same for rust. But i will check out the MIG.

Anakin · « **Reply #49 on:** 15 May , 2011, 11:56 »

I recently bought Vallejos Lavado washes and pigments but i haven

Rokket · « **Reply #50 on:** 16 May , 2011, 05:41 »

let us know when you get a chance!

iceonaboy · « **Reply #51 on:** 17 May , 2011, 00:33 »

Back to work tomorrow,no boat building for 5 weeks

, but I`ll try and check in as much as I can, happy modelling guys!

Rokket · « **Reply #52 on:** 21 May , 2011, 22:18 »

5 weeks? that's torture!

wildspear · « **Reply #53 on:** 21 May , 2011, 22:37 »

I took an extended absence from my boat. I don't even have a reason..... cant wait till you get back to yours.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #54 on:** 27 May , 2011, 14:33 »

Hi guys, yeah it is torture being away from my boats for so long.

Theer is no way to bring all the stuff down here for my tenure, but it makes it all the more fun to get back home. My computer access was off for a while, but now I can keep up with all again, only 4 short weeks to go! $:-\$

iceonaboy · « **Reply #55 on:** 25 Jun , 2011, 15:35 »

Got asked to do an extra week, cos we are short staffed. Six weeks and only a week and a half off! What can I do to my gorgeous boats in that short time?

Rokket · « **Reply #56 on:** 25 Jun , 2011, 17:43 »

research?

iceonaboy · « **Reply #57 on:** 30 Jun , 2011, 01:20 »

Yay! Start travelling home today

iceonaboy · « **Reply #58 on:** 02 Jul , 2011, 09:40 »

I got to work on the forward flood holes. I used a junior hacksaw blade to seperate the pieces from the master fret. I used a Dremell soldering iron with the blade attachment and used it as a hot knife to cut out the hole before filing the edge to tidy it up. Finally filled the edge with Tamiya putty

Rokket · « **Reply #59 on:** 02 Jul , 2011, 18:45 »

Ahh, Pat's hot knife, glad it worked so well. I keep meaning to try it.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #60 on:** 03 Jul , 2011, 01:23 »

Yeah, it worked a treat Wink. I reckon it will take a bit of practise to become adept at it, but the Dremmell is ideal for the job and pretty affordable too

iceonaboy · « **Reply #61 on:** 04 Jul , 2011, 03:51 »

I spent a bit of time over the weekend as I am determined to get the flood holes finished and see a little bit of progress, as it seems like forever since I started this project.

Did the front flood holes first

Some nasty chopping with the hot-knife.

A schoolboy error! Remember children, knives can be dangerous! Doh!

Roughly filled with Tamiya paste

Tidied up a bit. The aft floodholes are a lot trickier than the front because of the bending and twisting that needs to be done to make them line up, but the brass bends very easily and can be flattened out again if you make a hash of it. Much to my delight

Rokket · « **Reply #62 on:** 04 Jul , 2011, 05:01 »

oh noooooo...bloooood!

I've been generally lucky (now that I've said that, the most potent physical force in the Universe, the Law of Irony, will strike me) and only have had a few nasty cuts. I tend to get this Star Wars Force/Spidey Sense when I'm on shaky cutting ground...like I can see a ghost version of the knife slipping with lightning speed and freight train force and cutting into me...and I stop and re-assess.

Yet I have made some great "bad" cuts. At work recently I was doing some wiring. I had cable-tied some stuff together, only to find I needed to access one of the wires. I could have gone and gotten the snips which would have clean and neatly cut through the cable tie without threatening the wires underneath. But I was lazy. So I used my pocket knife (Swiss Army!), and very fiddly-carefully cut through the tie without hurting the wires.

That actually worked well - it was effort, and I was holding back my great superman-like strength, but I didn't damage the bundled wires.

What I DID do, was slip. I got through the cable tie nicely, but all that shaky energy and force had to go somewhere, and when the tie parted, my hand RIPPED and SLICED in an arm-swinging arc and sliced through a wire two feet up above! Cut the damned thing right in half.

It was hysterical, but then I had much repair to do...

Glad your finger is still attached. The work is looking mighty good!

iceonaboy · « **Reply #63 on:** 04 Jul , 2011, 06:23 »

Thanks a lot Wink, fair praise from a master like yerself

Yeah the cut, I was trying to trim the worst of the melted plastic away before filing and used my scalpel. Stupid bugger that I am, was cutting towards my hand, and I got a nice deep slice which wouldnt stop bleeding.

....Youd think I would have learned by now how to use a knife proper like, cos I is more maturer, than what I was

iceonaboy · « **Reply #64 on:** 04 Jul , 2011, 16:18 »

Right Wink, while I have your attention. When , oh when, are you and Dougie gonnae bring oot the PE sets with lower flood holes? ;)I have heard about them for so long and nothins` happened! I ordered the Modelbrass sets, but they dont have torpedo vent holes, and Im running out of disposable income for more aftermarket kits $:-\$ . I may be sunk with all hands!

Rokket · « **Reply #65 on:** 05 Jul , 2011, 04:32 »

NEWS coming

iceonaboy · « **Reply #66 on:** 08 Jul , 2011, 10:16 »

I decided to make a go of putting the hull together, so I could see some results before having to go back to work

I realised after doing the aft flood holes , that I hadnt lined them up properly. Thats something I will definately ammend on the next build. I aint too worried about that to be honest, as this is my first large scale U boat, and also my first time working with PE parts.

She aint gonna be sailing into any competitions anyway.

This is purely for my own enjoyment, and I have to say. Its great fun. Im loving it

iceonaboy · « **Reply #67 on:** 08 Jul , 2011, 10:21 »

A couple of the pics didnt load

Pat · « **Reply #68 on:** 08 Jul , 2011, 15:45 »

You're right iceonaboy, it DOEs take a fair amount of practice with the hot knife to be able to use it safely (both for the model and for your fingers). Before using, always practice on a piece of scrap spru

As I bought my hot knife possibly more than 30 years ago, I've had a lot of practice and can now cut plastic with it into slices as thin as card stock. This often requires a bit of straitening the edge up with a scalpel, but comparing to the laborious task of drilling through thick matierial with a row of holes, or sawing (even rougher edges and too difficult to cut a straight line), it's great. I've often undercut lapels, cuffs, and jacket bottoms in the old Airfix 58mm figures, something that you can't do with a scalpel. Even separated the backs of ears from the heads for more realism.

Not as much worry of cutting yourself with it though. The blade tends to get dull with a buildup of melted plastic (you have to scrape it off when hot once in a while) and needs a lot of force to cut skin.

But don't worry about bleeding on your model and ruining the paintjob if you do slip and cut yourself. If hot enough, it cauterizes itself and doesn't bleed (But then it hurts like you wouldn't believe!!!!)

iceonaboy · « **Reply #69 on:** 08 Jul , 2011, 17:02 »

Ha ha Pat

, you are right, I have bled myself, so many times on this build, you would think I would have learned by now. Its all part of the game though, innit? What would the hobby be, without some kind of pain? You have to put some of yourself into a build that you care about. Blood getting into the welds of the boat is payback for the lives wasted in the iron coffins!

iceonaboy · « **Reply #70 on:** 09 Jul , 2011, 14:21 »

forgot to mention. I had tried to work my way round sanding the excess filler from the PE and was pulling my hair out. I then bit the preverbial, and ordered the Archer rivet sheet. Once I knew that it was on its way, my sanding took on a new frenzy, and I was able to properly tidy up those problem areas, safe in the knowledge that I could save the surface detail

I reckon if you are working with PE, The Archer rivet set is the logical next step!

Now I got to practise all the different weathering techniques $:-\$

Rokket · « **Reply #71 on:** 09 Jul , 2011, 18:04 »

The archer set is excellent, our own forum mate Glenn Cauley designed it. The only downside: the price!

Rokket · « **Reply #72 on:** 09 Jul , 2011, 18:04 »

oh, forgot to say, looks great so far, nice yardwork on that hull!

iceonaboy · « **Reply #73 on:** 10 Jul , 2011, 08:25 »

Thanks very much Wink. Im sure you are just being nice, cos I know its nothing compared to some of the boats on display here

I was wondering what you used for your 88 deck gun and the 20mm? Also, did you use aftermarket kits for the periscopes. I have searched Griffon`s site and they have kits for the VIIC/41 but not the VIIC. $:-\$

Rokket · « **Reply #74 on:** 11 Jul , 2011, 05:40 »

Guns - 88 I added the tubing seats, and tried to make them seem like photos, but did nothing special. I think ti still works, but there are aftermarket and scratch builds that are waaaay better. 20m I used an AM kit, from White Ensign. gave you ammo and some PE bits.

Barrels - I used turned brass barrels. The same fellow did scopes. He's dead now, died young tragically. Steve...Nutall? His family was looking to sell his CNC equipment and the business (not just the lathes but the idea of continuing). but I don't think it worked out.

I did my scopes retracted with covers on th ells, so did not buy scopes.I really don't know who is doing anything comparable, I think some are as you have found Griffon. get them, there is no good way to reproduce such fine detail except in brass on a lathe.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #75 on:** 11 Jul , 2011, 07:39 »

Thanks Wink, looks like I will have to settle for the kit parts then $:-\$ No worries.

I put the deck onto my boat and gave it a coat of oil paint which I then wiped off. I used burnt umber, which some might say is too brown, but Im hoping to go for a well worn look on the whole boat, and will be sanding and weathering the deck some more anyway.

I was wondering about the PE fore and aft metal deck pieces and would it be acceptable to glue them onto the wood? I thought with them being so thin that this would be ok, but if anyone has any advice, then please feel free to shout out

Its maybe a bit late now to chop the ends of the wooden deck anyway. $:-\$

iceonaboy · « **Reply #76 on:** 12 Jul , 2011, 08:56 »

Back to work tomorrow

My parting shot was to order the wooden deck for the VIIC/41 . Im hoping that that, along with the Archer set will be waiting for me when I return to port

See yas all in a few weeks

Pat · « **Reply #77 on:** 12 Jul , 2011, 14:23 »

Quote from: iceonaboy on 11 Jul , 2011, 07:39

Thanks Wink, looks like I will have to settle for the kit parts then $:-\$ No worries.

If you're still talking about the scopes, then I found the problem with the kit parts wasn't so much the detail at the top of the scopes, but that the shafts of the scopes just didn't look right. There was no way to get them to look like hydraulic tubes, and they wouldn't move very well in the wells they were supposed to telescope out of.

The brass scopes are well shaped, but again the brass doesn't mimic hydraulic tubes very well.

So what I did was to get aluminum tubes of the right diameter from the shop and used the hot knife (you can tell I get a lot of use out of that knife) to cut off the top AND bottom of the kit scopes. I then shaved the plastic down to fit inside the aluminum tubes to exactly duplicate the shape of the plastic kit scopes and voila, a scope that looks like it's hydraulic metal inside the well, (since the top is painted anyway, that doesn't matter) and it extends and retracts smoothly from the well, just like the real one. The plastic part at the base still works to lock it at the desired height when extended.

Quote from: iceonaboy on 11 Jul , 2011, 07:39

I was wondering about the PE fore and aft metal deck pieces and would it be acceptable to glue them onto the wood? I thought with them being so thin that this would be ok, but if anyone has any advice, then please feel free to shout out Its maybe a bit late now to chop the ends of the wooden deck anyway. $:-\$

If I understand your question correctly, I'd use a Dremel tool to shave off a thin bit of the wood so as to inset the PE part. If you have a steady hand and something to brace it against, you could freehand it or you could attach a jig to Dremel as a depth-stop so that you can take off a constant amount of wood.

Rokket · « **Reply #78 on:** 13 Jul , 2011, 01:47 »

good info Pat!

Ice - looking good!

GlennCauley · « **Reply #79 on:** 04 Aug , 2011, 11:29 »

Quote from: rokket on 09 Jul , 2011, 18:04

The archer set is excellent, our own forum mate Glenn Cauley designed it. The only downside: the price!

Hi folks, been a while since I've been on here...

Yeh, the price is a bit daunting for the Archer kit, but it makes replacing rivets & welds SOOOOOOOOO easy compared to any alternative. Take a look on my build site here: www.travel-net.com/~gcauley/U673 and go to the "Rivets" section.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #80 on:** 05 Aug , 2011, 10:25 »

Arrived back home for 4 weeks

...the Archer set and the wooden deck for the VIIC/41 were, as hoped, waiting on me. Delighted with both

I tried offering the PE deck end pieces up to the deck on my VIIC and they do stick up a bit, so I am gonna have to retro- cut the wood off. Anyone got any ideas as to what to use as a backing for the PE to ensure a flush fit with the wood?

iceonaboy · « **Reply #81 on:** 05 Aug , 2011, 13:50 »

No worries about my last question. I found that the PE deck sections lay across the edges of the plastic hull, although , I found a bit of an overlap, which will have to be addressed with a bit of careful filing. Its all part of the learning curve as I have never worked with PE parts before, far less wooden decking $:-\$ I am quite impressed with the results right enough. A great big thank you to Glenn, who put me on the right track for a lot of this stuff right at the start

Rokket · « **Reply #82 on:** 06 Aug , 2011, 21:34 »

Ob, yes, forgot to answer question waaay back - I think what you're doing is best, cut the wood on the ends and then glue across bridges/supports. The little hinges and doohickies can be glued to the wood no prob, but the end metal deck, not so much.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #83 on:** 07 Aug , 2011, 09:09 »

Quote from: rokket on 11 May , 2011, 01:30

Real varnish has yellowing and eating problems, tho I must say i'm surprised a Humbrol spray went bad. I agree with Anakin, use Vallejo or Future Floor Wax. I've never used any Vallejo, but only hear really, really good things about their paints. I've used a little Future (Aus equiv by Johnson & Johnson) and it was cool. My bottle had a slight tint but did not tint when applied. It can also be taken off with window cleaner or ammonia, so it's very safe! In this 1:144 case, the effect is actually pretty cool weathering! (at least in the pix...)

I was wondering Wink, or if anyone else may know, Future floor wax is sold as Johnsons Klear in the UK, and it has now gone out of production. Is there any other product that works as well, that is still easy enough to obtain?

Marko · « **Reply #84 on:** 08 Aug , 2011, 06:33 »

hm,

i know that here as an alternative we have Erdal Gl

Rokket · « **Reply #85 on:** 09 Aug , 2011, 02:12 »

I have heard that their other product, Pledge, works very well. That was news in February. The only Pledge I know of from USA is a spraycan wax for furniture, so not sure...

GlennCauley · « **Reply #86 on:** 09 Aug , 2011, 09:06 »

Future floor wax = 'pledge' future floor wax

same stuff

bracco_n · « **Reply #87 on:** 09 Aug , 2011, 11:06 »

Hey Glenn, any progress on U-673?

iceonaboy · « **Reply #88 on:** 09 Aug , 2011, 12:34 »

I managed to procure a bottle of Pledge Klear, which Im hoping is the same stuff, otherwise Im in for some interesting times with the old sub

Rokket · « **Reply #89 on:** 13 Aug , 2011, 18:48 »

Hi Glenn, long time no hear! Thanks, 'preciate the confirm!

Greif · « **Reply #90 on:** 20 Oct , 2011, 01:18 »

Late coming to this thread. Ice, you have some nice builds. One of the things I enjoy about modelling is watching my skills develop from build to build. I hope to see more of your work soon as it is excellent.

Ernest

iceonaboy · « **Reply #91 on:** 22 Oct , 2011, 15:48 »

Thank you so much my friend. I am very flattered by your compliments as I feel that I am such a beginner. Even though I made models prolifically in my youth, I was not into the techniques which are so readily available on the internet nowadays. I am forever watching this site to learn new techniques, and cannot believe someone of your talent would stoop to give me praise. I have not been building for a while as I have had so many other jobs to do, but I look forward to getting back to ther old grey wolf. Cheers Grief and keep in touch , Leth

FoxbaT · « **Reply #92 on:** 22 Oct , 2011, 16:37 »

Leth,

i hope you find time to continue work on your boat soon

Karel

iceonaboy · « **Reply #93 on:** 23 Oct , 2011, 05:06 »

Cheers Karel, I owe you so much for all your help. If my boat comes out half as good as yours, it will be...well, not as good, but I`ll be happy

Author Topic: Iceonaboys type VIIC build 1.72 (Read 19058 times)

bracco_n

bracco_n

Kptlt. Wolfgang Ott

bracco_n