Author Topic: U-552 - doing it my way. (Read 271206 times)

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #600 on:** 23 Nov , 2009, 15:57 »

Quote from: rokket on 22 Nov , 2009, 23:30

Thanks for the info Don. It's especially nice to point out that scary things aren't always scary!

It's an odd thing about modeling, Rokket, but almost every task I ever thought would be difficult turned out to be fairly easy. Strangely, everything I thought would be a snap, proved to be much harder and took a lot longer than I could have ever imagined.

At first I thought this was a passing phenomenon, but a three year diorama I did of the Krupp U-boat construction site at Kiel proved my right time after time. I can't account for this and often wonder if it is true for other modelers? It is holding true for my U96 build, so it must have some validity. (For me, at any rate.) This should not be considered as a complaint, per se, merely an observation.

I'll still wonder why.

Don

rabapla · « **Reply #601 on:** 24 Nov , 2009, 04:33 »

self fulfilling prophecy?

when You think it will be easy, You just start.
when You think it's gonna be difficult, You prepare Yourself more?

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #602 on:** 24 Nov , 2009, 13:05 »

Quote from: rabapla on 24 Nov , 2009, 04:33

self fulfilling prophecy?

when You think it will be easy, You just start.
when You think it's gonna be difficult, You prepare Yourself more?

I'd never thought of that, but it makes sense. Thanks.

Don

Rokket · « **Reply #603 on:** 27 Nov , 2009, 19:16 »

Hmmmm...interesting, thanks Guys!

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #604 on:** 03 Dec , 2009, 13:24 »

Quote from: rokket on 27 Nov , 2009, 19:16

Hmmmm...interesting, thanks Guys!

Just a note to let you all know the Koki Japanese soldering paste recommendd by Siara arrived in the USA from the Poland source just 13 days after order was placed. Considereing that we here in the colonies had a holiday in the middle, (Thanksgiving) and two sundays, I think it made good time.

Based on my experience I can recommend the Polish source without reservation. The whole transaction was by credit card.

Siara:

How about a little primer on how to best use the product? (Begin with how to open the tube. I know that sounds silly but there are no instructions ) I am a ways off from any real soldering work, but would like to do a few tests. (I got the Dremel soldering iron you recommended, as well.)

U96 is still in two halves with more work to do before joining, but with a heartstopping moment. While doing cleanup details on the hull I accidently put my thumb through the drilled out lower bow vent holes which left it looking like a broken window; a frame with jagged edges. This prompted a major change of plans. I had the Modelbrass PE with the vent pieces, but had planned to use them on the next build, this one being a learning boat. Taking a deep breath, I cut out the opening (It looked huge!) and test fitted the PE. It worked great! Based on this I cut out the stern section as well and with some serious fiddling, got it shaped and in. *Woosh!* I am just now starting to breath again.

A big thank you to Siara, Rokket,and Glen Cauley for all their inspiration and support.

And to my friend Dougie who has been a fountain of knowledge and kept me from making serious mistakes. (Up till now, anyway.)

Don

Siara · « **Reply #605 on:** 03 Dec , 2009, 14:28 »

I must say im impressed by the speed of the delivery Don. I knew these guys from Poland were quick, but your Koki made it in record time.
Im glad you are happy with the service, and didnt find it dissapointing. I hate to recomend something, to find out, that person i recomend it to is not entirely satisfied.

Goes to show the Big Eastern Giant isnt as scary as some people make it to be.

Don- open the plastic, orange cup on the bottom of the tube, and unscrew the orange pointy top.
Insert something ie. pencil, finger into the hollow bottom, and spread some paste onto the baking foil. Its esential to use something like alu foil for that, as this paste is quiet greesy.

Leave the paste in the room temperature for couple of minutes (remember to keep the paste in the fridge between work) and you good to go.

It doesnt take much of that stuff to join the parts, and it sinks almost without the buildup. Not much clean up required.
I recoment using the torch, instead of rod suplied with the Dremel.

Good luck Don.

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #606 on:** 04 Dec , 2009, 12:28 »

Quote from: Siara on 03 Dec , 2009, 14:28

I must say im impressed by the speed of the delivery Don. I knew these guys from Poland were quick, but your Koki made it in record time.
Im glad you are happy with the service, and didnt find it dissapointing. I hate to recomend something, to find out, that person i recomend it to is not entirely satisfied.
Goes to show the Big Eastern Giant isnt as scary as some people make it to be.

Don- open the plastic, orange cup on the bottom of the tube, and unscrew the orange pointy top.
Insert something ie. pencil, finger into the hollow bottom, and spread some paste onto the baking foil. Its esential to use something like alu foil for that, as this paste is quiet greesy.

Leave the paste in the room temperature for couple of minutes (remember to keep the paste in the fridge between work) and you good to go.

It doesnt take much of that stuff to join the parts, and it sinks almost without the buildup. Not much clean up required.
I recoment using the torch, instead of rod suplied with the Dremel.

Good luck Don.

Siara:

Thanks for the quick reply and helpful advice. Delivery time was indeed excellent. I forgot to mention that I had it shipped Air Priority, but the little additional cost was well worth it. I would do it again in a heartbeat. And let's face it, if cost were a major factor there'd only be a few modelers around.

In the next week or so I will start to do some small soldering tasks just to get the feel for the product.

Sincere thanks is here tended for sharing your build with us. Following it here on the AMP Forum and on Subism has helped me enormously. I am a better modeler for knowing you.

All the best,

Don

Siara · « **Reply #607 on:** 05 Dec , 2009, 05:07 »

Latest from the workshop:

Copper wire twisted for steel line, isolators from green stuff, and the wraparound tie from 1mm brass tubing. I think thats the right way to go about it- what do you all think?

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #608 on:** 05 Dec , 2009, 08:20 »

Quote from: Siara on 05 Dec , 2009, 05:07

Latest from the workshop:

Copper wire twisted for steel line, isolators from green stuff, and the wraparound tie from 1mm brass tubing. I think thats the right way to go about it- what do you all think?

Looks good, Siara. I assume you are molding the Green Stuff shapes by hand, right? If so are you having any problems with keeping the size consistant? Also, what do you use to make the grooves?

OBTW: For those of us among the great unwashed, what exactly is Green Stuff?

Mr.Mox · « **Reply #609 on:** 05 Dec , 2009, 15:45 »

Pretty much spot on, propably won

Rokket · « **Reply #610 on:** 05 Dec , 2009, 22:32 »

Excellent work as always Siara!
Don - thanks for the first hand info on koki, I appreciate it!

Siara · « **Reply #611 on:** 06 Dec , 2009, 06:17 »

Quote from: Mr.Mox on 05 Dec , 2009, 15:45

Pretty much spot on, propably won

Anakin · « **Reply #612 on:** 06 Dec , 2009, 06:51 »

Siara you should have been a surgeon!

Amazing!

dougie47 · « **Reply #613 on:** 06 Dec , 2009, 11:10 »

Hi Siara,

Very nice - just like the real thing! Twisting the copper wire works really well.

Chhers,

Dougie

Siara · « **Reply #614 on:** 07 Dec , 2009, 14:19 »

I thought i had everything sussed, but looking at the pictures of rigging i came accross few shots of some kind of harness, which is attached to main rigging.

I have seen that thing around the groups of insulators, like bridge for the current possibly?

What exactly is that thing, and has anyone clearer picture, maybe diagram of it?
Is it possible that that harness is only clipped on when the boat is moored?
Theres really not much info online regarding rigging, and books are not much help either.

It would be great if i can get the clarification on this matter, for my benefit, and everyone who is mad enough to buy the U-Boot model.

I realised all the boats online have simplified rigging, and id like to have go at making true replica.
I rely on your info ladds.

Ostach · « **Reply #615 on:** 07 Dec , 2009, 17:13 »

On these photos you have some details of the stern.

There is no trace of the mentioned instalation. Having analyzed drawings in my monography I think that those wires were only on the newer boats. But it's only an assumption. Notice that bollards are not in the right angle with the deck. Details of the dismantled rear positiong light are also visible.

Hope it helps in any way.

Cheers!

NZSnowman · « **Reply #616 on:** 07 Dec , 2009, 23:32 »

Hi Siara

I have few good pictures of the rigging but I not 100% sure that you are looking that. Are you looking at the small wire that ran along the rigging?

Simon

Siara · « **Reply #617 on:** 08 Dec , 2009, 00:44 »

Quote from: NZSnowman on 07 Dec , 2009, 23:32

Hi Siara
Are you looking at the small wire that ran along the rigging?

Simon

Yes- the ladder sort of thing.

Ostach- nice shots. What boat is it?

NZSnowman · « **Reply #618 on:** 08 Dec , 2009, 01:12 »

Hi Siara

I imagine you have see these before but here goes

Happy viewing.

Siara · « **Reply #619 on:** 08 Dec , 2009, 01:30 »

Good work Simon.

The wiring im on about is clearly seen here on the left wire:

From what i can see, the ladder sort of thing wasnt there all the time, and quiet possibly was clipped on when moored.
i wonder if Dougie can shed some light on the matter.

NZSnowman · « **Reply #620 on:** 08 Dec , 2009, 01:38 »

I see it now

It looks like it only on the port rigging $:-\$ The wire in the picture looks thicker and darker! Could it be a power cord

dougie47 · « **Reply #621 on:** 08 Dec , 2009, 13:02 »

Hi guys,

There were extra wires just behind the tower - on the post side only - on the VIIAs, the early VIIBs (U 47 and U 99), and the very earliest Germaniawerft VIICs (U 93 to U 98). All the other VIICs didn't have them in this location. I covered it very briefly on page 30 of my VII modifications article. I'm not sure on their purpose.

Siara, well done on noticing them at the rear of that Meditteranean boat. I haven't seen these extra wires at the rear of the jumping wire before. Perhaps it was a Meditteranean feature?

U 552 did NOT have the extra wires near the tower. I presume U 552 did not have them at the rear of the port jumping wire either.

Cheers,

Dougie

Siara · « **Reply #622 on:** 08 Dec , 2009, 13:31 »

Thats cleared it.

Thanks for advice Dougie.

In the way glad that U-552 didnt have them, because i can now finish the boat this year.

But on the other side- its nice feature, and if someone is making one of this boats you mentioned Dougie its well worth the effort, as it would look so cool.

UrpoK · « **Reply #623 on:** 09 Dec , 2009, 13:18 »

Hi guys,

Could those extra wires be radio antennas?
Vesikko had such antennas fastened in port rigging.

What do you think?

Timo

Siara · « **Reply #624 on:** 09 Dec , 2009, 15:11 »

Quote from: UrpoK on 09 Dec , 2009, 13:18

Hi guys,

Could those extra wires be radio antennas?
Vesikko had such antennas fastened in port rigging.

What do you think?

Timo

Im not sure. All the shots of the extra wires, are of the boats in ports- why only in ports?
Besides- type seven had its own radio designated loop on starboard side of the CT.

NZSnowman · « **Reply #625 on:** 09 Dec , 2009, 21:51 »

I was looking for some pictures today and came across this:

U-52

&

From U-56 & U-60 you are clearly see the wire going into the CT

U-100

U-102

From U-570. Does is look like the very thin wire on the starboard side $:-\$ There are very good picture of it on page 17 from Anatomy of the Ship - The Type VII U-Boat

Picture from http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-570Photo3.htm

Other pictures from http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=149950

dougie47 · « **Reply #626 on:** 11 Dec , 2009, 15:27 »

Hi gents,

Good shots, Simon, we can clearly see the extra wires on the Type IIs and VIIBs.

There is something on the starboard jumping wire of U 570 on page 17 of Westwood's book (at the very edge of the photo). This may relate to an attachment point - or a pair of attachment points - that was on a few boats; it was positioned a foot or two behind the rear tensioner on the starboard jumping wire. The German sometimes used this attachment point to hang a yellow warning plate. This plate had a lightning flash to warn of the danger of electrical current that could sometimes be present through the jumping wire. Now and again boats in port would have the warning plate present.

Or the Royal Navy might have put it there as the photo was taken after the capture of the boat.

Siara, the Meditteranean boat you posted a photo of is U 73 in La Spezia. U 73 was a VIIB launched in July 1940. Given the early-ish date we might guess that the extra wires on the port wire might be a VIIB (and very early VIIC) feature. But U 73 didn't have these wires when commissioned. So instead they may just be a Meditteranean feature? Note that U 73 did have a Mittelmeerturm (med tower) when in La Spezia.

Cheers,

Dougie

UrpoK · « **Reply #627 on:** 12 Dec , 2009, 14:13 »

Hi!

I know very little about radio devices of Type VII.
So I can

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #628 on:** 20 Dec , 2009, 13:10 »

Quote from: Siara on 06 Jul , 2008, 12:04

Hi all.
Im so happy with my soldering today i thought i share it with You all.

More pics, and full story here:
http://u-552.blogspot.com/

This is the part of the project where it can be either done or destroyed. Im glad im past it, to be honest it wasnt that bad with the right tools.

Hope You guys like her, and be kind please.

Siara

Siara:

I need some help with using the Koki soldering paste. I've run into two problems and anticipate a third one..

#1) After taping some trial pieces of copper wire to a ceramic tile I heat the joint with a torch or iron and then apply the paste to the joint with a toothpick. Either the paste does not 'silver up' to bond the joint or I get an unsightly blob of solder at the joint which ,I assume, means I've used too much paste. (?) Less than that doesn't bond, however.

#2) When I try to add more than one piece to the trial wire the adjacent joint melts.

#3) When you are soldering tiny pieces to styrene, say like the foot rings at the base of the scope how do you prevent the styrene from melting?

If you have any tips on how to correct these problems I'd appreciate hearing them.
(Keep in mind that I have only soldered once or twice in my life, and never with success)
Perhaps if time permits, you could walk me through a few simple constructions you've done so that I can try to duplicate them using your expert advice. I'd really like to master this as it has defeated me in all past attempts. Thanks in advance for your time and effort.

All the best to you and your family during the holiday season.

Don

warnster68 · « **Reply #629 on:** 20 Dec , 2009, 18:06 »

Hi Don,
I'm certainly not going to anticipate what Siara is going to say....I actual wish /hope he'll post a "technique's" blob so we can see samples like the on you're asking about....but, I've taken Siara's examples and have done some soldering as described and all joined nice and firm.

The only thing I see you doing differently if that you are applying the Koki paste after you have headed the two joints.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the joints and paste should be applied / joined cold and all together, then the whole thing is heated until the paste "melts and flow" around joint.
Maybe try that. ??
Warnster68

wildspear · « **Reply #630 on:** 20 Dec , 2009, 18:14 »

Don,
I would have to agree with warnster. I think your applying the solder as you would regular solder. With the paste applying it before the heat has always worked best with me.

billp51d · « **Reply #631 on:** 20 Dec , 2009, 20:18 »

#2) When I try to add more than one piece to the trial wire the adjacent joint melts. Another little trick is to add a "heat sink" between the adjacent joint and the joint that you are working on. This will draw the heat away from a finished joint. Something as simple a paper clip or alligator clip may work. Hope this helps....
Bill

Siara · « **Reply #632 on:** 21 Dec , 2009, 00:18 »

I agree with everything thats been said.

heres my rules:

1. Make sure the surface of the joined metal parts are greese free, and clean.
2. Apply small blob of paste to joint, and slowly start heating up the parts, and paste, untill it runs into the joint.
3. Some copper wires need to be sanded using sandpaper- because they come out the factory coated in some kinda coating, which prevents the solid joint.
4. Use the heat sink- i use the tissue soaked in water. I use the heat sink in close proximity to other joints.

One day i will show SBS from soldering.
Im slightly busy right now, but once the Christmas rush is over, an i finish repairing my van after the accident i will post the SBS.
Till then- practice, practice....

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #633 on:** 21 Dec , 2009, 16:05 »

Quote from: Siara on 21 Dec , 2009, 00:18

I agree with everything thats been said.

heres my rules:

1. Make sure the surface of the joined metal parts are greese free, and clean.
2. Apply small blob of paste to joint, and slowly start heating up the parts, and paste, untill it runs into the joint.
3. Some copper wires need to be sanded using sandpaper- because they come out the factory coated in some kinda coating, which prevents the solid joint.
4. Use the heat sink- i use the tissue soaked in water. I use the heat sink in close proximity to other joints.

One day i will show SBS from soldering.
Im slightly busy right now, but once the Christmas rush is over, an i finish repairing my van after the accident i will post the SBS.
Till then- practice, practice....

Wow! thanks to warnster, wildspear and Mr Bill for the help. Rest assured that I will follow your advice. Soldering is all new to me so I can use any help offered. I hope to do some more trials right after the holidays and will report progress here.

To Siara:

Sorry to hear about your van and hope you weren't dented as well.

I think I speak for many here who admire your craftsmanship and the artistic qualities you bring to the hobby, so any details you can offer at some later date are more than appreciated. So far as I'm concerned there can never be too much information.

I am a long way fron doing any in-depth soldering so no real urgency at this end. Thanks again to you and all my new friends on the AMP forum. I hope your holidays are filled with happiness and a lot of new photo-etch!

All the best,

Don

Rokket · « **Reply #634 on:** 23 Dec , 2009, 00:36 »

I like the wet tissue/paper towel heat sink, something with guts! Alligator clips are nice in theory, but cold water...!

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #635 on:** 23 Dec , 2009, 09:18 »

Quote from: rokket on 23 Dec , 2009, 00:36

I like the wet tissue/paper towel heat sink, something with guts! Alligator clips are nice in theory, but cold water...!

Yeah I like that one too. It is a credit to the AMP forum in general, and Siara specifically that so much good modeling information is made available here, and so many are willing to share it.

Siara's building skills are so advanced that I really appreciate it when he goes into great detail as to how he got from A to Z. He is a natural teacher and I hope he will find time to share a few tutorials with those of us who struggle. I for one, would love to know what tools and techniques he uses for his micro-detailing -especially in metal, and, of course soldering, as both of these are weak points of mine.

Rokket · « **Reply #636 on:** 24 Dec , 2009, 00:11 »

Yes, soldering, ug! I can solder 2 wires together properly, tho not fast and not always smoothly. But I had such a nightmare with my VII rails, as mentioned here, solder a joint, solder a second joint and the first melts and drops in pieces...correct and the 2nd melts and drops..."D'oh!" I'll eventually (in a hundred years) have some rails to do for the Gato, so hopefully I'll have my koki paste and half a technique down by then...

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #637 on:** 24 Dec , 2009, 08:27 »

Quote from: rokket on 24 Dec , 2009, 00:11

Yes, soldering, ug! I can solder 2 wires together properly, tho not fast and not always smoothly. But I had such a nightmare with my VII rails, as mentioned here, solder a joint, solder a second joint and the first melts and drops in pieces...correct and the 2nd melts and drops..."D'oh!" I'll eventually (in a hundred years) have some rails to do for the Gato, so hopefully I'll have my koki paste and half a technique down by then...

My experience parallels yours exactly. (I'll bet we even use the same swear words!

)

I'm bound and determined to do this, rokket. If so many others have mastered it, then why not you and I? (Although I have a sneaking hunch Siara's little tutorials will play a big part in our success, not to mention some of the other folks here looking over our shoulder and offering advice.)

I plan to do a number of tests after the holidays and will keep you informed of the results, the good the bad and the ugly.

Happy Christmas,

Don

Siara · « **Reply #638 on:** 27 Dec , 2009, 19:06 »

Im back in the workshop, and slowly making progress on some of the projects i have started.
Heres the small update on the Kettenwagen model- i made one damaged headlight instead of the 2 good ones. Light body was drilled out, and lightbulb was made from clear sprue- stretched, and the end was blobed using hot knife. Bulb holder from brass tubing.

Windscreen was covered with thin alu foil immitating the canvas, and i also added few brackets on the bonnet to hold the windscreen in folded possition.

Greif · « **Reply #639 on:** 29 Dec , 2009, 12:43 »

Your Kubelwagen is looking very good, Siara. Did you use lead foil for the fenders?

Ernest

Siara · « **Reply #640 on:** 29 Dec , 2009, 15:01 »

For the fenders i used alu foil, but i used some lead foil in this build- i made part of the roof canvas using it.
I always stash load of different everyday use items- coffee lid foil, alu trays left after chinese night in, styrene from yoghurt pots and so on....
I recycle a lot.

Rokket · « **Reply #641 on:** 31 Dec , 2009, 00:02 »

I never thought a headlight could look so good!

Anakin · « **Reply #642 on:** 04 Jan , 2010, 09:27 »

Quote from: Siara on 08 Mar , 2009, 01:18

The best type of Koki paste for our hobby seems to be the 4- M954 type.
The make up of the paste being: Sn62% Pb36% Ag2%
Melting point for that paste is reached at ~210deg C

Hi Siara!

You can call me blind but i can

Siara · « **Reply #643 on:** 04 Jan , 2010, 09:34 »

This is the product.

I know the visit to the Koki site is slightly confusing.
I have been there.

Rest assured- all of the Koki types are good for our hobby- the differences are minimal, and for us not distinguishable.

Heres one more link where you can get this stuff.

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #644 on:** 04 Jan , 2010, 09:57 »

Quote from: Anakin on 04 Jan , 2010, 09:27

Quote from: Siara on 08 Mar , 2009, 01:18
The best type of Koki paste for our hobby seems to be the 4- M954 type.
The make up of the paste being: Sn62% Pb36% Ag2%
Melting point for that paste is reached at ~210deg C

Hi Siara!

You can call me blind but i can

Anakin · « **Reply #645 on:** 04 Jan , 2010, 10:24 »

Thanks Siara and Don!

I

Siara · « **Reply #646 on:** 04 Jan , 2010, 10:28 »

My pleasure- hope you enjoy using the paste, as much as i did.
Since i got the Koki paste my modeling has changed for good.

Rokket · « **Reply #647 on:** 06 Jan , 2010, 01:07 »

ahhh, magic paste, that's your secret!

Somehow I think the koki just made a difficult task slightly easier, I'd say your skill was always way up there!

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #648 on:** 11 Jan , 2010, 09:00 »

Advice needed:

I hope Siara doesn't mind my posting a modeling qiestion on his thread. With all the attention his build has been getting I figured this would be the place that would get me the most responses.

Okay, here's the problem: I am attempting to attach photo etch parts to the Nautilus wood deck with CA , but the very tiny pieces -like the non slip strips atround the deck gun- pop loose. I use CA gel applied to the part with a toothpick, set it in place and add accelerator. Some pieces adhere just fine but others fail to bond well and I fear they will come loose and get lost.

I'm wondering if the super glue is being absorbed into the wood before it can form a bond. (?) Should the wood deck be sealed first? Can you tell me what I am doing wrong, or not doing right? If you have encountered this problem and have solved it, or if you have a suggestion please help me out.

Don

Siara · « **Reply #649 on:** 11 Jan , 2010, 12:59 »

I had no problems fixing this antislip strips.
What i have done- i sanded the deck using 600 grit sandpaper to get rid of all the fuzzy bits, and then i used the thick CA called Grip.
No problems.

One more advice with PE parts- turn them over, and scratch some with tip of your craft knife in different directions, or using sandpaper scar the PE underneath, so the glue will get better grip. I always use this technique where good adhesion is required.

Mr. Bill · « **Reply #650 on:** 11 Jan , 2010, 20:59 »

Siara is spot on as always - PE will form a very secure bond using CA if the bonding surface is firstly roughed up a bit with sandpaper. I have found that paint will adhere better to PE when the parts are treated in this same manner.

Regards,

Mr. Bill

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #651 on:** 12 Jan , 2010, 08:40 »

Quote from: Mr. Bill on 11 Jan , 2010, 20:59

Siara is spot on as always - PE will form a very secure bond using CA if the bonding surface is firstly roughed up a bit with sandpaper. I have found that paint will adhere better to PE when the parts are treated in this same manner.

Regards,

Mr. Bill

Thanks to you, Mr Bill, and to you, Siara for your help. I appreciate you taking out time to help.

Don

Rokket · « **Reply #652 on:** 13 Jan , 2010, 00:42 »

I'd agree that would work. I stained and sealed my deck first, that worked too.

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #653 on:** 14 Jan , 2010, 08:14 »

Quote from: rokket on 13 Jan , 2010, 00:42

I'd agree that would work. I stained and sealed my deck first, that worked too.

As a matter of interest did you stain your deck before or after it was glued to the hull? Which way would you recommend?

Also I notice both you and Glen Cauley used stain rather than paint on the deck. I mention this only because Nautalis specifically recommends paint rather than stain. Personally I like the stained look on both models.

Don

Pat · « **Reply #654 on:** 14 Jan , 2010, 18:53 »

Good advice from Mr. Bill, rokket and Siara.

There are two things happening when you score/sand/file a surface before using glue or paint.

The first is that you microscopically are creating more surface area for the solution to adhere to, in some cases you may even be doubling the area, which of course makes for a better bond.

The second is that some of the scratches actually undercut the surface, which lets the hardened paint/glue key into it, much like a dovetail joint in carpentry.

As for staining the deck as rocket mentioned, that

Siara · « **Reply #655 on:** 15 Jan , 2010, 00:54 »

This is true about the stain looking more realistic.
Only question is- will it stop the moisture?
Wooden deck needs to be sealed to stop the moisture from the air entering the pores, and cosequently deforming the deck, or in extreme cases cracking the hull.
I went with Nautilus advice, and sealed the deck both sides before fixing.

Don in Cincinnati · « **Reply #656 on:** 15 Jan , 2010, 14:23 »

Quote from: Pat on 14 Jan , 2010, 18:53

Good advice from Mr. Bill, rokket and Siara.

There are two things happening when you score/sand/file a surface before using glue or paint.

The first is that you microscopically are creating more surface area for the solution to adhere to, in some cases you may even be doubling the area, which of course makes for a better bond.

The second is that some of the scratches actually undercut the surface, which lets the hardened paint/glue key into it, much like a dovetail joint in carpentry.

As for staining the deck as rocket mentioned, that

Rokket · « **Reply #657 on:** 16 Jan , 2010, 00:47 »

Pat, excellent explanation about surface area being two part (I liken this to tires, people always say treads = more surface area - yes, but LESS is contacting road, yet it is the squishy-ness that in some vague way is like your glue example. Or something.)

I stained mine with a stain that was water washup (usually I only like toxic enamel/oil) and had a built-in urethane seal, one step. Worked great, THEN drybrushed (killing 2 paint brushes) many diff charcoals and blends to mke weathered and warn anti-foul Schiffwhatever.

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #658 on:** 19 Mar , 2010, 05:46 »

Hi Siara,

I don't know what kind of words i could use to describe the feeling left after a 44 pages "U-552 - doing it my way" walk !

As i said, this forum is a gift. So many talented and generous people...

I hope to obtain your high quality renderings ; if i have to build only one U-Boat i would put all my passion and skills on duty. Like you do !!!

Amazing, i love your technics.

Cheers,
Pepper-mint.

Siara · « **Reply #659 on:** 20 Mar , 2010, 11:02 »

Im glad you like my build Pepper- mint.
Hopefully one day i can find the carpenter, which can make the base for glass tank.
So far two attemts, and two dissapointments.
I just bought another plank, so will be trying for the third time.

Siara · « **Reply #660 on:** 22 Mar , 2010, 03:35 »

Id love to, but how we gonna manage it in logistical way. I live in London, and the glass tank is quiet big, so sending it by post could end up in the tank being damaged.
Where do you live Johann?

Siara · « **Reply #661 on:** 22 Mar , 2010, 04:23 »

Quote from: Johann Vilthomsen on 22 Mar , 2010, 04:16

Is for your U-552 display??

Yes it is. The glass tank is 1 m long, and the wooden plank is Marocan Mahoganny.

Siara · « **Reply #662 on:** 22 Mar , 2010, 04:27 »

Ill try to solve the problem locally, but if im not succesfull, then i get in touch. Thanks for the offer.
After all how difficult can it be to groove the wood.

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #663 on:** 22 Mar , 2010, 10:44 »

Quote from: Siara on 20 Mar , 2010, 11:02

Im glad you like my build Pepper- mint.
Hopefully one day i can find the carpenter, which can make the base for glass tank.
So far two attemts, and two dissapointments.
I just bought another plank, so will be trying for the third time.

Siara what kind of problem do you have ?

Siara · « **Reply #664 on:** 22 Mar , 2010, 12:51 »

Quote from: Pepper-mint on 22 Mar , 2010, 10:44

Quote from: Siara on 20 Mar , 2010, 11:02
Im glad you like my build Pepper- mint.
Hopefully one day i can find the carpenter, which can make the base for glass tank.
So far two attemts, and two dissapointments.
I just bought another plank, so will be trying for the third time.

Siara what kind of problem do you have ?

My problem is the carpenters i deal with. No pride in what they do. They take the job, bodge it, and pretend it looks good, when it does`nt.

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #665 on:** 22 Mar , 2010, 13:20 »

Could you give me more technical definitions of the encountered problems : does the wood shrink or "dril" or ...?

In my country "la Haute Savoie" there's only one thing that's not made in wood : ...i don't remember what it is...

billp51d · « **Reply #666 on:** 22 Mar , 2010, 17:20 »

Siara... Have you tried talking to a cabinet maker. He should have any tooling thats needed...Planners, routers, joiners...Anything at all, to do what you require.
Good luck with this. Your workmanship certainly warrants the best..
Cheers/Regards...Bill

Seewolf · « **Reply #667 on:** 20 May , 2010, 17:50 »

Hello Siara,
page 12

Quote

After studying the pictures time, and time again i spoted small part of the bow, that isnt shown on any plans i have, and never been replicated on the model before.
Heres few pics of the part, and quick mock up i created of how i see it. Does anyone know what that actualy is?
Is it part of the GHG, and if so- was it present on U-552?

I`am not quite sure can you say what date these pic. are and best what boat ? For sure it have nothing to do with the GHG.
October 1939 U-11 was first boat fitted for tests with the SN (Nah-S-Ger

Siara · « **Reply #668 on:** 20 May , 2010, 17:56 »

Quote from: Seewolf on 20 May , 2010, 17:50

if you can give me a date or a boat number of the pics it will be very nice.

God only knows.

Seewolf · « **Reply #669 on:** 20 May , 2010, 18:08 »

OK thanks, than I will ask him later.

NZSnowman · « **Reply #670 on:** 20 May , 2010, 19:37 »

Seewolf, was the SU-Apparat

Seewolf · « **Reply #671 on:** 21 May , 2010, 13:04 »

Hello Siara,
10.Mai 1941, U-371, Kieler Howaldtswerke Drydock, but he told me nothing about the purpose of this thing only "sorry top secret"

Siara · « **Reply #672 on:** 22 May , 2010, 04:48 »

Quote from: Seewolf on 21 May , 2010, 13:04

Hello Siara,
10.Mai 1941, U-371, Kieler Howaldtswerke Drydock, but he told me nothing about the purpose of this thing only "sorry top secret"

Ha,ha...i like your sence of humor Seewolf. Nice one.

Ask his son- he may be easier to talk to.

Pierre · « **Reply #673 on:** 31 Aug , 2010, 16:13 »

Hi Siara,

I follow since some time your blog about the U-552, but ist stops

Have you some new pictures of the whole sub? or is still something missing. Would be nice to see some more pictures of the fantastic build up.

greetings

Pierre

Siara · « **Reply #674 on:** 31 Aug , 2010, 17:00 »

The build is on hold at the moment. I need moment of inspiration, and lot more time to tackle the rigging. I know how, but im not ready for the challenge just yet.

Rokket · « **Reply #675 on:** 13 Sep , 2010, 15:54 »

That's scary, when Siara is not ready for the challenge!

chipper · « **Reply #676 on:** 30 Sep , 2010, 09:40 »

Siara

When you're able to put together your soldering tutorial, please include a section on metal working. The types of tools used for bending and cutting, choices of metals, wire diameters for different functions (exp, .45mm for railing). This build was, by far, the finest and most instructive I've ever read. Thank you for taking the time to include all of us and share your techniques. How about a Gato subject next? Thanks Chip

Rokket · « **Reply #677 on:** 02 Oct , 2010, 17:49 »

Yes, I agree

Siara · « **Reply #678 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 03:45 »

Im still not ready to tackle the U-552 just yet. All in good time.
Im finishing the "Shallow Crossing" diorama now, so theres not much to be soldered at this point , but i promisse to make small SBS on soldering during my next build.

TRM · « **Reply #679 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 14:41 »

That is great news Siara! (Still waiting to see you progress on the 552 though....but understand your tremendous patience.

) I think that there are a lot of us waiting to see your tutorial! Still looking for a local distributor of a comparable soldering paste.

Cheers!

Rokket · « **Reply #680 on:** 03 Oct , 2010, 22:14 »

Well said T

Greif · « **Reply #681 on:** 15 Oct , 2010, 02:31 »

Just wanted to stop by and say hello Siara. I hope you are doing well and I look forward to trading modelling information with you and admiring your work again.

Cheers,
Ernest

Siara · « **Reply #682 on:** 15 Oct , 2010, 13:59 »

Good to see you back Ernest- its been a while.

iceonaboy · « **Reply #683 on:** 01 May , 2011, 03:24 »

Hi Siara, I have greatly enjoyed reading your topic posts detailing your build. I am forever in your debt for all the tips you gave us along the way.

Congratulations on a quite stunning portrayal of U-552. I am just starting to build my first 1.72 boat and need all the help I can gather. Keep up the great work

Plasticfanatic · « **Reply #684 on:** 01 May , 2011, 04:01 »

I must say this is truly a magnificent build in all the sence of the word, the detail and fabrication is nothing short of spectacular!!!

Rokket · « **Reply #685 on:** 06 May , 2011, 19:56 »

You're right about that!

Siara · « **Reply #686 on:** 01 Mar , 2014, 00:43 »

6 years after starting this build it is on the home straight to be finished.
Wiring done, and weathering of the lower hull started.
I faded below the waterline first.
Now i'll seal it with some satin varnish, and weather the upper hull.

SG · « **Reply #687 on:** 01 Mar , 2014, 09:53 »

Siara I had always thought you had finished U-552 at the time! I never had the chance to congratulate with you for your outstanding modelling skills. I follow your modelling blogs (both the general modelling one and the one about U552) regularly and it's great to see your models on modelling magazines every now and then. Your thread on U-552 here is legendary and an evergreen source of inspiration!
Am sure the completed model will be stunning beyond limits!
Cheers and welcome back!!
SG
PS check your inbox: there should be some PM i wrote you months ago asking for advice

Siara · « **Reply #688 on:** 01 Mar , 2014, 12:33 »

Hi SG.
Thanks for nice words. I did see the PM's but i thought after such long time my answers would be outdated.

I have couple more articles in the print right now, and nice international project in the making. I can not tell what it is right now, because publisher restricts such actions. I will tell in good time.
I'm hoping to finish this boat now, no more excuses. Lots, and lots of weathering still to do, before she is done.

Siara · « **Reply #689 on:** 01 Mar , 2014, 16:13 »

Paint fading stage 2.

Siara · « **Reply #690 on:** 02 Mar , 2014, 01:15 »

Weathering stage 3

SG · « **Reply #691 on:** 02 Mar , 2014, 06:18 »

Speechless..

Siara would you mind sharing your amazing weathering thechnique?

Siara · « **Reply #692 on:** 02 Mar , 2014, 12:09 »

Weathering stage 4

GlennCauley · « **Reply #693 on:** 03 Mar , 2014, 07:33 »

Dude!!! Long time. We were just talking about you the other day, then voila! you post.

Hope you are well... I can see your awesome skills haven't diminished over time.

Johann Vilthomsen · « **Reply #694 on:** 03 Mar , 2014, 09:18 »

I'm glad to hear from you Siara.
This U-boot looks wonderful!

Siara · « **Reply #695 on:** 03 Mar , 2014, 11:34 »

Thank you.

Weathering stage 5. Exhaust stains, and more rust.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #696 on:** 03 Mar , 2014, 11:38 »

It never fails to surprise me when I lift up this model (my own or others)... in that I expect it to be super heavy because they look SO damned realistic.

Siara · « **Reply #697 on:** 04 Mar , 2014, 14:11 »

Hi Glen. You right about that mate.

Weathering stage 6- chipping.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #698 on:** 05 Mar , 2014, 07:50 »

Looking very nice Siara, good to see you are back!

Karel

Siara · « **Reply #699 on:** 05 Mar , 2014, 13:24 »

Thank you.

Finished chipping her. Once i gat the flag i will make better pictures of finished boat.
Enjoy:

Siara · « **Reply #700 on:** 12 Mar , 2014, 11:57 »

Thanks. Good to see you like her. $:-\$

Rokket · « **Reply #701 on:** 13 Mar , 2014, 01:19 »

Siara, so glad you're back. Beautiful! Although, I'm going "ahhh darn it all, I WAS happy with mine..." amazing stuff as usual!

OldNoob · « **Reply #702 on:** 18 Mar , 2014, 16:13 »

Mind- Blown! Hey Siara, Are there high resolution photos available of your finished model?

Siara · « **Reply #703 on:** 27 Mar , 2014, 11:30 »

I just received the delivery of the KM flags. Great stuff- thank you Wink my mate. Once installed i will post few shots of the finished thing.

Rokket · « **Reply #704 on:** 30 Mar , 2014, 06:37 »

looking fwd to it!

bianco64squalo · « **Reply #705 on:** 02 Nov , 2016, 01:55 »

Hi everybody,
I'm a new member of AMP, so don't look me wrong if I ask for something maybe well known by others members of the forum....
The question is: why the photos of the bigger part of this topic aren't visible ?
I'd like very much to see them....
Thanks in advance for any help.
Filippo from Padova, Italy

NZSnowman · « **Reply #706 on:** 02 Nov , 2016, 02:10 »

Quote from: bianco64squalo on 02 Nov , 2016, 01:55

Hi everybody,
I'm a new member of AMP, so don't look me wrong if I ask for something maybe well known by others members of the forum....
The question is: why the photos of the bigger part of this topic aren't visible ?
I'd like very much to see them....
Thanks in advance for any help.
Filippo from Padova, Italy

There two likely reasons, 1. Siara delete the pictures or he had them on a free photo image website which went commercial and decide not to pay the commercial fee.

bianco64squalo · « **Reply #707 on:** 02 Nov , 2016, 03:39 »

Thanks Snowman,
I hope Siara will read these last post and will post the link for this eventual free website....

Author Topic: U-552 - doing it my way. (Read 271206 times)

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Seewolf

Seewolf

Seewolf

Pierre