Author Topic: U-215 :: Type VIID Minelayer (Read 9198 times)

GlennCauley · « **on:** 22 Aug , 2016, 11:59 »

I have started my first U-boat build in 1/144 scale!
www.gc-scalemodels.ca/U215/

U-215 was a Type VIID minelayer that was lost on her first patrol. She was finally located at a depth of 270ft (82 m) about 130 miles (209 km) SSW of Shelburne, Nova Scotia. She was the first U-boat wreck discovered in Canadian waters: http://www.richiekohler.com/project-files/discovery-of-the-u-215/

GlennCauley · « **Reply #1 on:** 22 Aug , 2016, 14:07 »

After examining the fineness of the molded details, along with the much smaller dimensions of the 1/144 boat... I have decided that I will NOT be doing any "oil canning" on the hull. I feel it will prove to be extremely difficult to do it well and not wreck the details. I do plan, however, to lightly texture the lower parts of the hull (not the upper casing), and sand down most of the hull weld lines that are molded much too prominently and perfectly.

TristanR · « **Reply #2 on:** 23 Aug , 2016, 00:13 »

Good luck with it glenn! Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #3 on:** 23 Aug , 2016, 02:41 »

Hi Glenn,

Is that both the Eduard and the Griffon PE sets in the photos?
You could add Schatton Modellbau's Revell Type VII-D-submarine mines and Shafts and his periscope set, although you already have the griffon set, not forgetting AMP very own waterline decals, if you haven't already.

Regards
Jon

GlennCauley · « **Reply #4 on:** 23 Aug , 2016, 08:15 »

Hi Jon,

Yes, I have the Eduard + Griffon sets. I swear that Griffon does not build models with their PE... it is soooooo hard to work with (so tiny, etc.).
I have contacted Robert Schatton to order his resin mines, but he has not yet responded.
Thanks for the mention of the AMP waterline decals! I had not thought of that.

Cheers,
Glenn

GlennCauley · « **Reply #5 on:** 24 Aug , 2016, 07:52 »

The interweb paid off with more information about U-215. Wikipedia had some information, and I was able to find the boat emblem (a rat).
Question: would there be 2 emblems (1 on each side of the upper tower), or 1 emblem front center on the upper tower?

dougie47 · « **Reply #6 on:** 25 Aug , 2016, 12:32 »

Hi Glenn,

Yeah, that interweb thing has its uses now and again!

I've checked Hoegel's emblem book for you but it does not have any info on position or whether there was one or two added to the tower. It is impossible to know without a photo.

I see there is one rat emblem included on the decal sheet in the Revell kit (see number 17).

Cheers,

Dougie

GlennCauley · « **Reply #7 on:** 25 Aug , 2016, 12:42 »

(Irony: the rat did go down with the ship)

GlennCauley · « **Reply #8 on:** 31 Aug , 2016, 07:07 »

I started a new mini blog site for my U215 build on my main domain: www.gc-scalemodels.ca/U215/

GlennCauley · « **Reply #9 on:** 07 Sep , 2016, 09:18 »

Things are going along swimmingly (*snicker*) on the VIID build. I worked on the port hull (opening holes) and made the other saddletank extension.
Now I am awaiting the arrival of my PE set so I can graft the lower flood templates to the hull.
www.gc-scalemodels.ca/U215/

SG · « **Reply #10 on:** 08 Sep , 2016, 02:08 »

Great work so far Glenn. I foresee another amazing model. Keep up the excellent work

GlennCauley · « **Reply #11 on:** 08 Sep , 2016, 07:48 »

Thanks! I am stalled at the moment, awaiting detail sets to continue this build. Now if only someone would send me a replacement decal sheet (which I lost).

GlennCauley · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 Sep , 2016, 08:42 »

<SIGH>
So much for my promise to myself that I would NOT spend time texturing the hull of this boat. But in my defense, it will look MUCH better when I am finished.

Texturing was done with an abrasion wheel set, No.10 curved blade, and a rough sanding stick. I also sanded down the overly-prominent weld beads and rivets.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #13 on:** 14 Sep , 2016, 08:35 »

Arrived by post............

er-mah-gerd........ PHOTOETCH ! ! !

Thank you, falo

GlennCauley · « **Reply #14 on:** 26 Sep , 2016, 09:18 »

Over the past few days, I have made good progress on the VIID.

Textured the pressure hull areas on the outer hull, using abrasive wheel and liquid cement stippling
Added 62 ribs in main flood channel (atop saddletank) on port hull

GlennCauley · « **Reply #15 on:** 03 Oct , 2016, 09:31 »

I grafted some wee PE bits onto the starboard bow... flood holes.
The molded holes are just plain bad, due to the limitations of molding (I guess).

The PE flood holes are soooooo much better!

GlennCauley · « **Reply #16 on:** 03 Oct , 2016, 20:43 »

Grafting the PE flood hole template to the stern ventral hull was a piece-o-cake in 1:144 compared to 1:72 scale... it was 1/4 the work!
The dime shows the diminutive size of the parts.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #17 on:** 08 Oct , 2016, 18:41 »

Wow, I wish I had discovered resistance soldering years ago.
Soldering has never been so easy & stress-free without the fearing of burning myself.

Pic 1:
My recent thought to use a grounding platform was the proverbial lightbulb going on above my head. My homemade grounding platform had a grueling debut, and it performed flawlessly.

Pic 2:
Using resistance soldering to connect the 3 pieces of the long PE deck (only 0.007" thick). I put a piece of tape on the platform below the weld joint, to prevent the solder from fouling the copper plate. Then I taped the PE deck to the platform... instant grounding! Soldering after that was quick & easy.

Pic 3:
I soldered pieces of 0.015" brass wire to the underside of the PE deck, to raise if off a plastic baseplate (to go underneath).
1. Cut brass wire to length.
2. Dip wire in solder paste.
3. Hold wire down onto PE deck with finger, zap with electrode to solder it in place.
4. Repeat, repeat, repeat...

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #18 on:** 09 Oct , 2016, 09:01 »

Hi Glenn,

Are you using the other 'secret' ingredient, low melting point solder?, e.g. Javis LMS 145 designed for brass. 138 deg solder paste available readily from ebay from China.

Regards
Jon

GlennCauley · « **Reply #19 on:** 09 Oct , 2016, 12:45 »

Quote from: Capt Kremin on 09 Oct , 2016, 09:01

Are you using the other 'secret' ingredient, low melting point solder?, e.g. Javis LMS 145 designed for brass. 138 deg solder paste available readily from ebay from China.

Hi Jon,

I am using and old batch of Koki solder paste (unsure of the composition) that Sierra recommended a long time ago.

Do you have a link for that other brass-specific solder paste?
I searched on eBay for the Javis LMS 145, but only found solder wire (not paste).
I do not use solder wire any more, only solder paste.

Cheers!
Glenn

Capt Kremin · « **Reply #20 on:** 09 Oct , 2016, 13:27 »

Hi Glenn,

Javis is only sold as wire.
SD528T is the equivalent solder in paste form.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100g-Solder-Paste-Lead-free-Low-Temperature-SMT-Melt-Melting-Point-138-C-SD-528T-/321990643524?hash=item4af8234f44:g:tKQAAOSwvUlWqG6v.
What are you using as an RSU, home built or store bought?

Regards
Jon

GlennCauley · « **Reply #21 on:** 09 Oct , 2016, 15:09 »

Hi Jon,

Thank you for the link! Some day I may run out of my current batch... maybe in 3-4 hundred years at my current rate. LOL
Mine is in the same type of dispenser syringe.

I have a very basic, store-bought RSU that I got from Micro Mark a few years ago:
http://www.micromark.com/microlux-resistance-soldering-unit-with-single-electrode-handpiece,10952.html

It was always awkward to use because of the grounding cable.
Now with the grounding platform I made, it is sooooooo easy (and burn-free) to use!

SG · « **Reply #22 on:** 10 Oct , 2016, 11:21 »

So, Glen, Koki can be melted easily by the monopolar electric solder? is that correct? better results than the hot blower technique? if so this might change my life for the better
*(by the way. I dig your excellent wip, as usual)

GlennCauley · « **Reply #23 on:** 11 Oct , 2016, 05:21 »

Oh yes, SG... solder paste is bloody marvelous & easy to use.
It even sticks pieces together lightly, then you zap it... and it is nearly instantly soldered in place (maybe 1-2 seconds, tops).
A hot air blower was better than a soldering iron, but you still have to keep it running (and that means contending with a hot metal tip).

RSU + solder paste was a game changer for me.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #24 on:** 11 Oct , 2016, 09:09 »

I made good progress on the ribs & deck of the VIID during a day-long build day:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153723066152127.1073741909.549717126&type=1&l=3d4c0d4c26

SG · « **Reply #25 on:** 12 Oct , 2016, 10:47 »

Cool i'll give it a try as soon as am back on track (it's a loong story Gelnn). Thanks, keep it upp!

GlennCauley · « **Reply #26 on:** 13 Oct , 2016, 08:19 »

A day home (due to a root canal) let me get some bench time, so I started adding PE details to the deck.
With the teeny weeny parts, I may just go blind.

TristanR · « **Reply #27 on:** 14 Oct , 2016, 02:32 »

Nice progress Glenn, I have to keep reminding myself that it's 1/144!

GlennCauley · « **Reply #28 on:** 14 Oct , 2016, 08:46 »

Quote from: TristanR on 14 Oct , 2016, 02:32

Nice progress Glenn, I have to keep reminding myself that it's 1/144!

Thank you!
I am reminded of the small scale with every teensy-weensy detail that I add. LOL

Full build site: http://gc-scalemodels.ca/U215/

GlennCauley · « **Reply #29 on:** 15 Oct , 2016, 09:52 »

Roughly 140 pieces of brass wire "ribs" were soldered to the underside of the PE deck.
Worth the effort? Yes.

Viewed from the top of the deck, you cannot see the ribs, but they are there doing their job.

Also soldered on a bunch of hatches.

Getting there...

GlennCauley · « **Reply #30 on:** 15 Oct , 2016, 21:44 »

More deck progress

Bob Tomlin · « **Reply #31 on:** 20 Oct , 2016, 12:44 »

Looks great Glenn. I'm having enough problems handling parts at 72nd scale so admire your ability to tweak 144th stuff so effectively.
I'm glad you're showing how to work this etched brass deck stuff into the models as you're giving me plenty of ideas and inspiration too.
Very neat.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #32 on:** 07 Nov , 2016, 08:33 »

On my 1/144 U-215 (VIID minelayer), the 12 molded flood holes in the upper bow are grossly overscale at roughly 0.032" dia. (That size is better suited to 1/72.)
I have plugged the holes with styrene rod, and smoothed with putty.

Before I re-drill the holes, I have some questions:

What size holes should I drill? (0.016" perhaps?)
Are the holes paired, or evenly spaced?
Are there equal number of holes (12) on both sides?
Are the end holes in the proper locations?

GlennCauley · « **Reply #33 on:** 07 Nov , 2016, 13:57 »

Made some springs using 0.020" styrene rod and thin wire.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #34 on:** 08 Nov , 2016, 09:36 »

For their 1/144 U-boats, it seems Revell used the same plans (scaled down) as their 1/72 boat... including the same errors in flood holes, etc.

The coveted 1/72 U-Brass flood hole detail set again proves to be invaluable for determining the correct holes patterns for the 12 upper bow holes... this time in 1/144 scale.
I am creating my own stick-on templates (based on U-Brass but scaled for 1/144) to re-drill the 12 bow holes on my current U-215 VIID build.

dougie47 · « **Reply #35 on:** 08 Nov , 2016, 12:28 »

Hi Glenn,

The battery on my electronic calipers is flat so I can't measure the drill size that would be suitable. But it should be really small, very much smaller than the holes on the 144th kit.

For the position of the 12 holes, not every boat had them in precisely in the exact same position. They were pretty close though. Generally the first of the 12 holes was directly above the front of the upper torpedo door. Some had them very slightly forward of this position and others very slightly aft of this position. The 12 holes were slightly longer than the width of the upper torpedo door and this means that if you take a line directly down from the final hole (the one farthest aft) the 12th hole remains behind the end of the upper torpedo door.

Going by your photos the 12 holes on the Revell kit they look too far forward to me. When you drill new ones it would be best to position them a bit farther back. Perhaps you could align the first hole with the front of the torpedo door?

U 215 was a Krupp boat and had 12 equally spaced holes on both sides.

Cheers,

Dougie

GlennCauley · « **Reply #36 on:** 08 Nov , 2016, 12:45 »

Quote from: dougie47 on 08 Nov , 2016, 12:28

The battery on my electronic calipers is flat so I can't measure the drill size that would be suitable. But it should be really small, very much smaller than the holes on the 144th kit.

I think I will be safe with using a 0.5mm (.019") drill bit, as the U-Brass instructions call for a 1.0mm drill bit in 72nd scale.

Quote from: dougie47 on 08 Nov , 2016, 12:28

Going by your photos the 12 holes on the Revell kit they look too far forward to me. When you drill new ones it would be best to position them a bit farther back. Perhaps you could align the first hole with the front of the torpedo door?

Looking at the stock hole positions, I think that starting the 1st new hole at the 2nd stock hole will be good; that hole is in line with the forward edge of the torpedo door. The vertical rivet rows should then fall nicely between the new holes.

Quote from: dougie47 on 08 Nov , 2016, 12:28

U 215 was a Krupp boat and had 12 equally spaced holes on both sides.

Great! I have created my templates, which I will print on clear labels (Avery 7662). I can then apply them to the hull, aligning everything properly, and then drill the holes.

Thank you very much, Dougie.

dougie47 · « **Reply #37 on:** 08 Nov , 2016, 15:30 »

Hi Glenn,

My pleasure, good luck with it.

Cheers,

Dougie

Bob Tomlin · « **Reply #38 on:** 09 Nov , 2016, 01:50 »

Really fiddly looking work on the hatch springs Glenn but very nicely done.
Interesting reading about the holes too. It seems to me that the more you look at the features in photos of supposedly same type boats, the more you see lots of these little differences.
Fascinating stuff. Enjoying the progress.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #39 on:** 09 Nov , 2016, 08:33 »

Thank you, Bob.

I am SO glad that I found AMP so long ago... the people here are extremely nice and super helpful... and the documents produced (at great effort) are superb sources of information.

I may never get my boats "perfect" but they are perfect enough for me.
And that's all that counts, really.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #40 on:** 09 Nov , 2016, 09:01 »

I post pics of my progress in Facebook albums as well. Recently I have posted pictures of bow hole mods.

Today, some internet troll called me a "rivet counter."

Wow... really, dude?
You'd be hard pressed to find anywhere that I have critiqued someone else's work in a mean fashion, for not being accurate enough.
(That is what the derogatory term "rivet counter" means.)

billp51d · « **Reply #41 on:** 10 Nov , 2016, 07:07 »

..... Well done, Glenn.. ! In both cases..

tsenecal · « **Reply #42 on:** 10 Nov , 2016, 11:45 »

Glenn,

would you be willing to post a link to that facebook album? perhaps we can pile on the idiot and try to explain to him the difference between an individual who wants to build the best model his skill set will allow him to (and maybe even learn a few new skills) and nit-picking someone else's attempts at model building...

GlennCauley · « **Reply #43 on:** 15 Nov , 2016, 09:46 »

Quote from: tsenecal on 10 Nov , 2016, 11:45

Glenn, would you be willing to post a link to that facebook album? perhaps we can pile on the idiot and try to explain to him the difference between an individual who wants to build the best model his skill set will allow him to (and maybe even learn a few new skills) and nit-picking someone else's attempts at model building...

LOL not a chance. But thank you for the good (?) thoughts.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #44 on:** 15 Nov , 2016, 09:53 »

Making good progress on the VIID, getting all the final interior stuff done before gluing the hull halves together. (Eek)

Faux pressure hull top... done.

Saddletanks... done

Centerline baffle plates... done.

Adding basic interior structures that poke out of the pressure hull (mine tubes, tower)... underway.

This is a temporary blog album of recent work done (14-Nov-2016):
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153817627857127.1073741921.549717126&type=1&l=8581b97776
(Note: This temporary album will not be posted for very long... maybe a few days. It will get absorbed into the main photo album.)

Here is the main build site:
http://gc-scalemodels.ca/U215/

I also received word from Revell of Germany that they would send me replacement decals for this discontinued kit (to replace the ones I lost)... YAYYYY !

GlennCauley · « **Reply #45 on:** 22 Nov , 2016, 09:23 »

The hull is joined.

THE HULL IS JOINED ! ! !

I had a "snow day" yesterday, so I had a chance to make progress on the VIID.
I joined the hull, added PE bits throughout, and even created faux structures beneath the deck (to mimic the mine tubes & conning tower).

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153834957622127.1073741924.549717126&type=1&l=5f6e741d3e

http://gc-scalemodels.ca/U215/

billp51d · « **Reply #46 on:** 23 Nov , 2016, 08:00 »

Glenn... In a word... Sweet !

GlennCauley · « **Reply #47 on:** 07 Dec , 2016, 10:12 »

After some time off this project, I am back at it again!

I made the "deck sandwich" by gluing the PE deck to the styrene underdeck platform (using long-curing epoxy), then I carefully filled the gap edges with more epoxy... to give more surface adhesion when I glue the deck to the hull. I carefully sanded all edges of the deck sandwich to ensure good fitment in the hull.

To ensure the PE deck fits flush at the top of the hull, I adjust the "sill" height by scraping with a sharp Micro Chisel (Mission Models).

Before the deck goes onto the hull, I am adding all the running gear onto the hull: propeller shafts, rudders, dive planes.
The stock molded propeller shafts are being replace with 1/16" brass tubing.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #48 on:** 19 Dec , 2016, 07:34 »

After many months, the PE deck is installed (finally). However, it did not go in perfectly... there are gaps to fill & smooth. Oh well, it was to be expected for such a major conversion.

Also installed the stern running gear: propellers, rudder, dive planes. Broken rudder supports necessitated some scratchbuilding. And aligning wee pieces in 3D is not "fun" LOL

DerXL · « **Reply #49 on:** 24 Dec , 2016, 13:07 »

Looking great.

Some sweet looking scratchbuilt stuff on show here.

Bob Tomlin · « **Reply #50 on:** 01 Jan , 2017, 05:05 »

Great to see the progress Glenn. Enjoying the updates.

GlennCauley · « **Reply #51 on:** 01 Jan , 2017, 05:27 »

Quote from: Bob Tomlin on 01 Jan , 2017, 05:05

Great to see the progress Glenn. Enjoying the updates.

Thanks, Bob.

However, I have made the decision to halt work on the VIID... and return to my U-190 build.
I want to complete U-190 by a deadline in the fall for personal reasons, so other projects will be put aside.