1/72 Revell Type VIIC/41

[OldNoob]

WOW that's impressive!!. So detailed!!

[SG]

Amazing Work (still sci-fi technology to me) and 360° skills: 3D designer, modeller, researcher.
Congrats!!

[Roel]

Have you considered marketing these as a set?   

Dear Glenn, you must have supernatural powers, since my guess is all that see this thread will have the same question.
Regards,
Roel

[TristanR]

Thanks everyone,

Have you considered marketing these as a set?   

I have them up on shapeways,
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/supernashwan  I feel a bit weird selling the pipe and exhausts, since they are based one the fine research done by you guys on here.  But I couldn't work out how to put them up for free because shapeways encourages you to make a store and sell them.  Maybe when I am done I can upload the models somewhere on the AMP site for you all to download and print yourselves? 


I have them in beta until I get everything correct-ish.  The design assumes a pressure hull, so I don't know how usefull they will be to those that don't want to build a pressure hull.  I will do the hatches as a separate model, I can see them being more usefull, especially If a can get them printed with a working hinge.

Hi TristanR,
Have you considered using brass tubing, if you are sneaky are look round at both metric and imperial you can find very close matches. My type IX upper hull has a combination of plastic and brass tubing.
Regards
Jon

I havn't considered brass tubing, and I don't know why I havn't!  I will look into that, thanks for the tip!


Cheers!

[NZSnowman]

Maybe when I am done I can upload the models somewhere on the AMP site for you all to download and print yourselves? 

I was thinking about the same thing with my Balcongerät model.

[GlennCauley]

Can you recommend a good, easy-to-use FREE 3D design application to create files for common 3D printers?
I know how to use vector programs like CorelDRAW, but never used 3D.
I'd love to design a replacement keel leading edge piece, to replace the balcongerat that is not present on early U-505.   (Made one by hand, but should be nice to make a 3D printed version.)

[NZSnowman]

Glenn,

Like you have have 100's of hours using CorelDraw and wanted an easy way to make 3-D models.

I try and look at CorelCAD, Blender, SketchUp etc... Out of all of them I find that SketchUp was the easy to use. I did try Blender for a short period but found the learning curve much steeper than SketchUp. However, Blender offers huge advantages over SketchUp in photorealistic rendering, faster modelling, realistic materials and better animation toolset.

I believe you can download a free version of SketchUp or you can download SketchUp Pro for 30 days.

If you want, I should be able to make a model for you and I can upload a 3-D printer file for you once the Trimble logon is working again.

[TristanR]

Sketchup is good, but I havn't used it all that much.  I use Autodesk Maya, but I wouldn't recommend learning it for this stuff.


STL is the usual format for 3D printing, and Sketchup supports it with a plugin, OBJs also work.  Often you need another peice of software to validate the model for printing. Shapeways has this as part of their web service, you can then download the output from that, and presumably use it own your own printer, if you are lucky enough to have one.  Their service also warns you about stuff that is too thin or is comprimised in some other way. 

[NZSnowman]

Sketchup is good, but I havn't used it all that much.  I use Autodesk Maya, but I wouldn't recommend learning it for this stuff.

I have mainly stay with SketchUp because of my research and at work we use Trimble GPS’s and it a super easy workflow from the Trimble GPS’s to their 3-D mapping software to Trimble SketchUp. Also with each new update Trimble is adding more Trimble features to SketchUp

I would like to try Autodesk Maya, but it looks expensive.

[falo]

Hi Gents,

I agree with Snowman that the Blender learning curve is steep.

As a professional user of Photoshop and Illustrator (in former times using Freehand too) I start for a few weeks with Blender because a customer of the company where I work needed support. So I went from 2D to 3D. My first impression is that Blender is good choice because there is a worldwide community who provides the user with new plug-ins and updates. The interface of Blender needs getting used to (my opinion). AFAIK it exits a plug-in for printing via stl too. In addition the range of the free online tutorials is an argument, besides the fact that Blender is - like Linux - free software and will remain public domain.


Regards
falo

[NZSnowman]

I play with blender for about 3-4 weeks, I started to like it. But after this time and trying to learn by yourseft the learning was very slow. I wanted to take some nightclasses but they stop running them.

SketchUp is very easy to use, but not that powerfull, but Trimble is now starting to put some time into SketchUp and the last two versions are a lot better.

[falo]

Hi TristanR,

if you need the piping on the wooden deck besides the conning tower here is a good aftermarket set:

http://www.larsenal.com/1-72-u-boat-type-viic-viic-41-detail-set-c2x15951757

Regards
falo

[Anakin]

Hello!

I have this set waiting to assembly...  I noticed the schnorchel was bent a bit. Any ideas how to straighten it up?

-Anakin-

http://www.larsenal.com/1-72-u-boat-type-viic-viic-41-detail-set-c2x15951757

Regards
falo

[falo]

Hi Anakin,


I know these warped resin castings very well. Two methods to get the parts straight again and which helps me ordinarily to solve that problem:


1: Submerge the warped part in warm water for a while (depends on size and thickness of the part). Than take it out of the water and straighten it softly. If the part is as favored dip it in cool water. Maybe you have to repeat this method a few times.


2. Use a simple hair dryer instead of warm water and do the same procedure as described in #1.


Usually if a resin part is warped is was removed to early from the silicone moulds, so it had not enough time to cool down in the moulds.


Regards
falo

[Anakin]

Thanks Falo. I'll try it out. The water from the faucet should be enough. ( +60 degrees celcius )

Hi Anakin,


I know these warped resin castings very well. Two methods to get the parts straight again and which helps me ordinarily to solve that problem:


1: Submerge the warped part in warm water for a while (depends on size and thickness of the part). Than take it out of the water and straighten it softly. If the part is as favored dip it in cool water. Maybe you have to repeat this method a few times.


2. Use a simple hair dryer instead of warm water and do the same procedure as described in #1.


Usually if a resin part is warped is was removed to early from the silicone moulds, so it had not enough time to cool down in the moulds.


Regards
falo