Revell`s type VII-C,U-201.

[Bad Karma]

Hi everyone,

I want to install this front baffle plate for the pressure hull,
but before I cut or remove something I would like to know you`re thoughts about this.

I hope you understand the pictures.

1)



2)



my best regards,
Ron.

[RIP]

What is that grey structure? Some kind if interior? I think You should cut everything outside green marked P-hull...

[Bad Karma]

Hi,

Mmmmm yes the grey structure,wel I don`t know,the original was a kit part,and I scratchbuild a few things,
see in the pictures.

Well and about you`re last thought,I think you`re right,I will go down in a corner and cry.







my best regards,
Ron.

[NZSnowman]

Here a couple of things that I have discover about the ribbing and framing in this section that may help you.

a)   The central frame ran from the bow to rib No. 56 (or the area that you are thinking about removing

[Rokket]

I found this piece, which I label "p-hull support", was a huge pain. The hull is in 2 halves, so yes you can hold a piece up and trace, but even that is not easy. I tried following the Anatomy plans, and in the end made a few adjustments to make it all fit. Like Glenn says about the p-hull, nothing really fits the totally inaccurate and oversized INSIDE of the kit hull (becasue the inside wasn't made to matter, and in scale the hull would be about 40cm thick!). I approximated this piece, and made sure it was painted dark. But when you peek in you can just see a piece with holes and slots.

[Greif]

Hi Ron, I basically did the same thing as Wink with the support piece.  I took ALOT of artistic license with the size and shape of several of the interior pieces I scratch built for my model.  Once the build is complete not much much will be seen on the interior, so often just a hint of something in the shadows will be good enough to suspend belief.

Ernest   

[GlennCauley]

Hiya!

I'm not sure if it'll be of any help, but I created 1:1 plans for those baffle plates for my U-673 build:
http://www.travel-net.com/~gcauley/U673/index.htm 
--> go to section "Saddletanks" and go to the very bottom of that page.

Direct link to PDF plans:
http://www.travel-net.com/~gcauley/U673/files/BafflePlates.pdf

To create those baffles, I overlaid the plans for Anatomy of the U-boat over a picture of my model (with the PH placed inside), and used CorelDRAW to create the baffle plates to fit.  I have to relocate some of the holes in the baffle plates to align to the lower flooding slots in the outer hull.

That being said, my plans are tailored for my PH and may be slightly off if you have your own PH inside.   Adjustments & trimming would be required.

[Bad Karma]

hi everyone,

Thank you so much for you`re time.

Well Ihave have removed a few things from the CMK part,
and installed the ''bow lower baffle plate''(made by Glenn`s drawinging),made a few changes
to this plate and shot a picture,well folks I can tell you I am not happy,not happy at all.
The PH is not accurate that is whats annoying me.




Also I had installed the front etchpart of te torpedo doors,well it came loose,what are you guy`s use for glue???



 

You all have a nice day!!



greetings from a sunny Netherlands,

Ron.

[Rokket]

Hi Ron,

I used superglue (cyanoacrylate). BUT...I'm a bit paranoid (in general, not just models), and I firmly believe in a solid, base-support first above all else, and glue as more of a "keeper in place" than a "the only thing holding it." SO, for these cheek pieces, I made "rebates" or lips. ie I cut out a hole SMALLER than the cheek piece, then 1-2mm I shaved it down all round the edge, making a shelf (this was a pain, but with a  VERY sharp wide x-acto blade do-able). The shelf does not have to be perfect or even, but the highest point has to be no more than the thickness of the PE piece.

These pix don't show much of the process, but might give you a tiny idea of it...http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/u557/prog4.shtml after those pix I also built up arund the outside with ultra (ULTRA) thin (reeeeeeeally thin) sheet plastic. I wouldn't have had to do that except for my bow mangling! As for the stern floods, I used epoxy putty as a shelf behind.

Hope it helps.

[bracco_n]

Hey Ron I can't concentrate on subs because of your avatar! 

[vonbulowfla]

ron i cant think of a sub nevermind anything else but what goes along with that avatar . good stuff .!

[Rokket]

How is it going Ron?

[Bad Karma]

Well like you said Rokket I first put the brass sheets in place with
super glue(on the right),and then I glued the sheeds in place with ''griffon''glue(on left).



I hope now the sheets will stay on .


It is not finished yet!!!









Oh and thanks guys that you like my avatar .


my best regards,

Ron.

[Siara]

I made ma PE transplants exactly the same way as Rokket did, with slight lip on the plastic into which the PE was superglued.
I always sand the PE on sheet of 600 grit sandpaper- the superglue gets the grip of PE much better.
Check the way ive done it- you may get some inspiration:
http://u-552.blogspot.com/2008/01/pe-torp-doors.html
http://u-552.blogspot.com/2008/01/flood-holes-2.html
http://u-552.blogspot.com/2008/01/flood-holes-3.html

Hope it helps.

[billp51d]

Well like you said Rokket I first put the brass sheets in place with
super glue(on the right),and then I glued the sheeds in place with ''griffon''glue(on left).
I hope now the sheets will stay on .
my best regards,

Ron.

..RON THIS MAY HELP SOME........BILL
http://www.kriegershobbies.com/etchinfo.htm

[Rokket]

Excellent illustration Siara, perfect visual. I can't recommend enough the Siara/Rokket method of firm mechanical strength/adhesion, "helped" by CA. Whenever possible, don't give the PE a chance to pop off and fly into another universe.