Author Topic: U-995 Mission accomplished (Read 150654 times)

FoxbaT · « **Reply #200 on:** 06 Jan , 2011, 03:27 »

Friends.....

I am not ready yet....
There are some nice wooden deck parts from Nautilus waiting to get glued in place

I will do this after the conning tower is painted and weathered to prevent the wood getting painted grey.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #201 on:** 06 Jan , 2011, 06:59 »

I started replacing the nails wich were sanded away.
To prevent the delicate decal film from damage during working on the model, i give them a protection by adding a thin layer of matt varnish (diluted with white spirit).

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #202 on:** 07 Jan , 2011, 16:55 »

paint may do the trick...with all those guns, who's going to argue?

Pat · « **Reply #203 on:** 09 Jan , 2011, 07:03 »

bracco, I'd be quite happy to post pics of my U-boat but I don't have a digital camera and can't afford one. Perhaps when the lighting is good enough, I can take a few pix with my cellphone, but I know the resolution isn't all that good.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #204 on:** 10 Jan , 2011, 14:52 »

I am ready with replacing the lost nails (thank god, didn`t like this job), i think together i placed about 1000 nails.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #205 on:** 11 Jan , 2011, 11:16 »

Nice work Karel! Can't wait to see some paint applied to it!

Greif · « **Reply #206 on:** 13 Jan , 2011, 05:17 »

Nice job replacing the rivets Karel. It does indeed look like it was a tedious job; one that was very well executed.

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #207 on:** 13 Jan , 2011, 13:21 »

Thank you guys,

Next job are the rudders.
I removed the welds because they are not correct, i will replace them later with welds from the Archer kit.
On pictures from the 995, i noticed the rudders also have a rough steel surface with small holes and dimples, so i had the idea to simulate this with the help of some plastic cement and a piece of a steelwire brush.

On this picture the surface with the small holes clearly can be seen.

The rudders with the removed welds

The parts needed to replicate the steel surface

I brushed on a thin layer of cement to soften the plastic, after one minute i added a second layer and immediately started to push the wirebrush into the surface to create the holes.

After one hour of drying, i sanded the surface smooth to remove the small pieces of melted plastic, and only the holes remained.
I am happy with the result of this wirebrush/cement experiment

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #208 on:** 13 Jan , 2011, 14:11 »

Very nice technique!

Pat · « **Reply #209 on:** 13 Jan , 2011, 16:26 »

Excellent work on the rudders Karel. that's exactly what the rudders and other cast parts look like on the steel-hulled boats around here.

When going into that detail, you might also want to add a sacrificial zinc anode to each rudder.

In real life, the anodes could be almost any shape, from teardrop to rectangular. They were udually placed on the rudders between 1/3 and 1/5 of the way down from the top, and 1/3 - 1/5 from the leading edge. Not sure if there was one on each side of the rudder or just on the outside, but I've seen them in several photos.

The reason for the anodes is to use a 'less noble' metal as a sacrifice so that galvanic electrolysis dissolves the anode instead of the more valuable rudder.

I've also seen these anodes on the propellor shaft supports and the dive plane supports.

Not sure why, but they only seem to be around the stern of the U-boats, not the bow.

rabapla · « **Reply #210 on:** 14 Jan , 2011, 01:45 »

FoxbaT · « **Reply #211 on:** 14 Jan , 2011, 11:10 »

Quote from: Pat on 13 Jan , 2011, 16:26

Excellent work on the rudders Karel. that's exactly what the rudders and other cast parts look like on the steel-hulled boats around here.

When going into that detail, you might also want to add a sacrificial zinc anode to each rudder.

In real life, the anodes could be almost any shape, from teardrop to rectangular. They were udually placed on the rudders between 1/3 and 1/5 of the way down from the top, and 1/3 - 1/5 from the leading edge. Not sure if there was one on each side of the rudder or just on the outside, but I've seen them in several photos.

The reason for the anodes is to use a 'less noble' metal as a sacrifice so that galvanic electrolysis dissolves the anode instead of the more valuable rudder.

I've also seen these anodes on the propellor shaft supports and the dive plane supports.

Not sure why, but they only seem to be around the stern of the U-boats, not the bow.

Pat, do you have any reference pics for me from the anodes?

Thanks,

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #212 on:** 14 Jan , 2011, 11:52 »

Karel

Here a link to a picture of the anodes

http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=106.msg4968#msg4968

FoxbaT · « **Reply #213 on:** 14 Jan , 2011, 12:09 »

Thanks Simon

Karel

Jan · « **Reply #214 on:** 14 Jan , 2011, 12:30 »

Wooow! Thats a detailed boat! Simply amazing!

If I remember correctly, the whole hull of U-995 has those little holes/rough structure...

Rokket · « **Reply #215 on:** 15 Jan , 2011, 00:47 »

Wow, brilliant technique - do you mind reposting a copy in the Tips section?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #216 on:** 15 Jan , 2011, 09:49 »

Will do that Rokket

With the help of some pics i added Archer transfer welds and gave the rudders a coat of grey too see if the steel texture still would be visible after a layer of paint; i am glad that`s the case

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #217 on:** 16 Jan , 2011, 02:22 »

I am still not sure about a thing; the drip channels...
I think i found prove that there were drip channels on the type VII, so i am still considering to make these on my boat.

Can you guys shine your lights this subject and on these pics? The last pic is actually from the 995.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #218 on:** 16 Jan , 2011, 13:14 »

I found a clear pic to prove that indeed there were drip channels on wartime VIIC/41`s.
On the backside of the Revell instructions i saw this pic of U-1105.

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #219 on:** 16 Jan , 2011, 14:28 »

Hi Karel

I am not 100% sure on the drip channels, I have not research this yet. But several things make my think about it. Why would you need a drip channel that sent 90% of it time under the water.

I think what looks like drip channels are attachment strips for the bow/stern casting cap for the saddle tank & hull casting. In some pictures you can clearly see holes that are for the rivets to fix the casting cap on to the saddle tank, and you can see a fixing strip on the pressure hull.

Picture from U-BOOTE CREWS: Daily Life, 1939 - 1945 by J Delize
In this pictures you can see the fixing strip (with rivet holes) along the pressures hull to fix the hull casting to. You can also see the fixinging strip around the casting cap of the saddle tank.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #220 on:** 17 Jan , 2011, 03:04 »

Your explanation does make sense Simon, i don`t know exactly what the purpose was of these strips, fact is that they were there so i am gonna duplicate them.
Here`s a pic from the 995, maybe its of some help to you?

Karel

goose814 · « **Reply #221 on:** 17 Jan , 2011, 16:06 »

Based on these photos (I can't remember where I got them), U-995 didn't have those channels initially when put on display:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/4886010596_d0623a7780_b.jpg

NZSnowman · « **Reply #222 on:** 17 Jan , 2011, 17:00 »

Hi goose814 and welcome aboard!

They are great pictures!! They must be sometime early 70's just after U-995 was put on display. In the second picture you can see the original bow!! I don

goose814 · « **Reply #223 on:** 17 Jan , 2011, 17:29 »

NZSnowman · « **Reply #224 on:** 17 Jan , 2011, 17:41 »

Thanks, goose814

FoxbaT · « **Reply #225 on:** 17 Jan , 2011, 17:45 »

Nice pics Goose, never seen these before..
I have made the channels/strips from Evergreen profile strips, tomorrow i will post some pics, i am happy with the result.
Of course there will be different opinions on this subject but i chose to install them, based on the pictures i found.

Today i went to my local model store to get the colours i need for the lower hull (schiffsboden farbe III).

- 4 cans Humbrol 96
- 2 cans Humbrol 91
- 2 cans Humbrol 33

Finally, i am almost at the point of starting with the paintwork

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #226 on:** 18 Jan , 2011, 01:33 »

Really nice technique with the hull and rudders Karel. The model parts look like the original thing. Respect!

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #227 on:** 18 Jan , 2011, 03:31 »

For the channels/strips, i took Evergreen U-profile strips (1.5 by 1.5mm), en cut one side away to get an L-profile wich i glued against the hull.

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #228 on:** 18 Jan , 2011, 11:34 »

Hi Karel

It looks great! The last picture look like the starboard sideof the boat. If so, that inlet vent on the side and end of the pressure hull should only be on the port side of the boat.

Simon

FoxbaT · « **Reply #229 on:** 19 Jan , 2011, 23:42 »

Quote from: NZSnowman on 18 Jan , 2011, 11:34

Hi Karel

It looks great! The last picture look like the starboard sideof the boat. If so, that inlet vent on the side and end of the pressure hull should only be on the port side of the boat.

Simon

Thanks Simon will do that

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #230 on:** 19 Jan , 2011, 23:45 »

Because i need a matt surface for the next step, i gave the hull a thin coat of matt grey.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #231 on:** 19 Jan , 2011, 23:46 »

I also corrected the `bullnose`.

Karel

conus00 · « **Reply #232 on:** 21 Jan , 2011, 14:15 »

Amazing build. Great attention to the detail!

Pat · « **Reply #233 on:** 21 Jan , 2011, 21:22 »

I REALLY like the look of the pressure hull with the treatment you gave it. That looks exactly like the steel-hulled boats around here under the waterline. I can almost imagine a few barnacles and bits of algae at the waterline.

A question.

In one of your pictures, there seems to be two eyebolts, one on each side between the stuffing boxes and the propellor shaft supports. What're they for? I don't recall seeing that anywhere before.

Pat · « **Reply #234 on:** 21 Jan , 2011, 21:55 »

Quote from: goose814 on 17 Jan , 2011, 17:29

You're welcome. Here are the rest I have:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/postcard1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/postcard2.jpg

Those are nice pictures goose. Thanks for posting them.

Some people might recall back last spring or summer I was talking about the sacrificial zinc anodes that I'd seen on some U-boat photos, but I couldn't attach a photo because of my lack of a scanner.

Well, goose's pctures have a good example.

Take a look at the propellor support strut in pictures # 1, 9 and 11. On each of them you can see a vertical lump that looks perhaps a couple of cm wide by perhaps 8-10 cm long. Those are almost definitely zincs. the exact size and shape are variable, so if you want to add them to your build, don't worry so much about what they look like as long as they're there.

They'd also vary by location. Sometimes they might be near the leading edge of the rudder, sometimes on the struts as in goose's pictures, and sometimes on the hull. They will never be on the propellor shaft or the propellor itself. There will be several of them around the stern part of the ship. Not all zincs have to be identical on the same boat as they get replaced when necessary from whatever stock is at hand.

And the zincs will NEVER, ever be painted with anti-fouling paint as the whole idea is that the bare metal will erode faster than the parts of the hull. Usually they appear about the same colour as white metal castings, or perhaps silvery or whitish and pitted.

Greif · « **Reply #235 on:** 23 Jan , 2011, 02:13 »

Very nice work Karel. The correction of the bull nose was well executed and looks quite accurate.

Ernest

Rokket · « **Reply #236 on:** 26 Jan , 2011, 01:05 »

Bullnose is excellent - but so is it ALL! Lovely!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #237 on:** 27 Jan , 2011, 02:36 »

I painted the hull in the base colours `schifssbodenfarbe grau III` and Hellgrau`.
The pics are not very good yet, i have a new camera with a lot of functions/options so i have to find out how everything works..

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #238 on:** 27 Jan , 2011, 03:13 »

looking like a real miniature!

bracco_n · « **Reply #239 on:** 27 Jan , 2011, 06:51 »

Amazing work Karel, simply stunning!

TRM · « **Reply #240 on:** 27 Jan , 2011, 17:27 »

Very crisp and clean! Exceptional work Karel!

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #241 on:** 28 Jan , 2011, 04:55 »

Quote from: rokket on 27 Jan , 2011, 03:13

looking like a real miniature!

It is a real miniature...

Karel, are you planing a camo on your U-995 ?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #242 on:** 28 Jan , 2011, 05:09 »

I am painting the 995 in it`s normal colours, the lower hull Schiffsboden grau III and the upper hull hellgrau, after that i will give the upper hull a worn/weathered wintercamouflage (almost white).
I am now very busy with weathering the hull, updates will follow later...

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #243 on:** 29 Jan , 2011, 09:29 »

Sneak preview....

Karel

Gregor · « **Reply #244 on:** 29 Jan , 2011, 11:27 »

I have no words! Really nice ..............

Rokket · « **Reply #245 on:** 30 Jan , 2011, 04:46 »

WOW!!! That rust is sooo realistic, really, really top stuff. It could be a photo of real rust!!! It is some of the finest I have ever seen, again, photo real, true miniature museum work.

But that said....and I hate to be negative...SORRY! - it's too much rust for any boat under 20 years old. An AMAZING effect, and though light rust is everywhere even on newish boats, too much - that is a lot of rust. What year are you depicting?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #246 on:** 30 Jan , 2011, 06:17 »

Thanks Rokket i appreciate your opinion

i have seen many pics of U-boats with this much rust at the anchor bay (i will scan some pics later and post them)
Of course this is the area with the most rust, the rest of the boat will have less.
Later, i will also cover up some rust with paint flakes to simulate paint on top of the rust, this will also dampen the rust effect.
Nevertheless this boat will be more weathered than most other boats i have seen on the net, in my opinion most subs are a bit to clean (again, based on all the pics i have seen of subs returning from a long mission)

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #247 on:** 30 Jan , 2011, 11:59 »

Perfectly executed rust Karel. The best I have seen on a model to date in fact. Both the texture and shade(s) is/are extremely realistic. The painting of the uboot is also first rate.

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #248 on:** 02 Feb , 2011, 04:18 »

Two more teasers of the progression on the hull....

Karel

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #249 on:** 02 Feb , 2011, 05:36 »

This U-boat is an old and dangerous Wolf ! No rest, always on patrol, no time for repaint... Will soon fall apart

Work executed with talent. Would love to see a global pic from the hull.

cheers Karel,
Pepper.

bracco_n · « **Reply #250 on:** 02 Feb , 2011, 09:15 »

That's a weather-beaten boat alright!

conus00 · « **Reply #251 on:** 02 Feb , 2011, 10:18 »

I like it!
How did you achieve the chipping? Salt method?

Jan · « **Reply #252 on:** 02 Feb , 2011, 12:13 »

I especially loke those smoke-stains!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #253 on:** 02 Feb , 2011, 21:23 »

Thanks guys,

Conus; the white/light grey striping on the upperhull is done with the hairspray technique.
For the lower hull i also used hairspray, but in this case i wiped the waterpaint away with a wet towel almost immediately after spraying it on. The paint remains in the lower parts and corners, in fact its a kind of wash with waterpaint on a base of hairspray.
I discovered this method while trying to achieve the right look.

A Sephia picture to get into the right mood...

Karel

Pat · « **Reply #254 on:** 02 Feb , 2011, 21:41 »

Wow! EXCELLENT rust technique Karel. Especially in the anchor niche. Although I'm not sure how often U-boats actually used their anchors to scratch off the paint there).

It's looks REALLY realistic. The speia pic could almost be a period photo of a real boat.

Rokket · « **Reply #255 on:** 03 Feb , 2011, 03:41 »

I have saved some of your pix for future weathering reference, in my "Info and techniques" folder. Outstanding.

Yes, they did get a lot of wear. I read Fluckey's book and Dick O'Kane's, and Iron Coffins - all three gents make some kind of similar comment about seeing their boat and all the chipped paint, faded, and salt damaged paint, even after only a few months.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #256 on:** 04 Feb , 2011, 08:18 »

I`ve been busy with rust streaks, i use oil paint for this task because oil paint give`s me plenty of time to work.

I also added dark algae/seeweed on the hull, the contrast between the satin hull and the matt algae`s can be seen on this pic.
I give this aspect a lot of attention because in my opinion various gradations between satin and matt brings more `life` into a model.

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #257 on:** 05 Feb , 2011, 15:04 »

!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #258 on:** 06 Feb , 2011, 08:07 »

I added waterstripes/streaks on the upper half of the saddletanks, i did this with various shades of oilpaint.

I also airbrushed algae/seeweed on the waterline of the boat.
In my opinion this must be barely visible, on the pic below the green line can be seen on the saddletank

Karel

Greif · « **Reply #259 on:** 06 Feb , 2011, 13:54 »

Wonderful work Karel. The painting and detail is first rate!

Ernest

bracco_n · « **Reply #260 on:** 06 Feb , 2011, 18:27 »

Amazing work Karel! I'm sure that it'll look terrific with the deck !

FoxbaT · « **Reply #261 on:** 08 Feb , 2011, 13:53 »

Small update; i finished and weathered the aft steel deck.

Karel

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #262 on:** 09 Feb , 2011, 11:07 »

Very impressive.

Always tuned...

Pepper

Johann Vilthomsen · « **Reply #263 on:** 09 Feb , 2011, 11:30 »

Quote from: Pepper-mint on 09 Feb , 2011, 11:07

Very impressive.

I'm agree!

Always tuned...

Me too

Pepper

FoxbaT · « **Reply #264 on:** 11 Feb , 2011, 09:56 »

many thanks guys...

I glued the wooden deck on the hull.
Before i could do that, i had to glue the lifeboat canisters (wich i made before) to the underside of the deck.

Here the deck is fixed on the hull, i also darkened the deck a bit with some filters, and added some whitish dried seasalt stains around the hinges/hatches.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #265 on:** 11 Feb , 2011, 10:22 »

Of all the boats I've seen Karel I have to say that yours has the best deck! Keep up the good work!

NZSnowman · « **Reply #266 on:** 11 Feb , 2011, 11:46 »

Karel, great deck and hull!

She look like she had a long hard patrol at sea!

Rokket · « **Reply #267 on:** 12 Feb , 2011, 01:29 »

Deck looks beautiful, very natural and real.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #268 on:** 12 Feb , 2011, 17:08 »

Guy`s, thank you very much for the kind words, this really gives me a boost to make the best of this project

I started work on the conning tower.
The tower had the same wintercamo paint as the upperhull; white on top of the basecolour.
To simulate a worn wintercamo (as often seen after a long mission), again i used the hairspray technique.
After that i smooth the edges of the chips a bit on some places with very fine sandingpaper, to simulate an irregularly worn pattern.
Of course this is only the beginning of the weathering proces on the tower, it still needs a lot of work.

The picture is a bit on the dark side, but this way the contrast between the base colour and the white wintercamo is more natural and beside that, it gives the pic a nice atmosphere

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #269 on:** 12 Feb , 2011, 17:12 »

Great work Karel. Could you tell me how this hairspray technique works? Keep it up

Rokket · « **Reply #270 on:** 13 Feb , 2011, 04:33 »

Yes, hear much abut hairspray but not the details...

Siara · « **Reply #271 on:** 13 Feb , 2011, 09:41 »

Nice work!
About the HS technique : http://migjimenez.blogspot.com/2009/11/hairspray-technique-vol1.html

bracco_n · « **Reply #272 on:** 13 Feb , 2011, 19:42 »

Thank you Siara! Karel please keep us posted!

Rokket · « **Reply #273 on:** 14 Feb , 2011, 04:07 »

thanks

FoxbaT · « **Reply #274 on:** 15 Feb , 2011, 09:12 »

I bought a U-boot pin/badge from someone at my work, this badge was given to the u-boat crew after two succesful missions.
I am not sure if it is original (did some research on the net)but nevertheless it is a nice addition in the showcase together with the 995.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #275 on:** 15 Feb , 2011, 09:21 »

Does it have any mark on the backside? You can also read this link from Wehrmacht awards with tons of info about the award:
http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/war_badges/kriegsmarine/uboat_badge.htm

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #276 on:** 16 Feb , 2011, 11:46 »

FoxB,

I'm sure you're working for Hollywood

What will be the movie title ?

Pepper

Greif · « **Reply #277 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 00:09 »

Your build contiues to impress Karel. I really like the deck.

Ernest

FoxbaT · « **Reply #278 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 04:43 »

Quote from: bracco_n on 15 Feb , 2011, 09:21

Does it have any mark on the backside? You can also read this link from Wehrmacht awards with tons of info about the award:
http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/war_badges/kriegsmarine/uboat_badge.htm

It doesn`t have a mark on the backside, but there were three German manufactures who made these pins, and i understand that one of them didn`t put an inscription on the backside, so i still don`t know if its original or not.
But, as said before, that is not so important to me, its just a nice addition to display in the showcase

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #279 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 04:44 »

Quote from: Pepper-mint on 16 Feb , 2011, 11:46

FoxB,

I'm sure you're working for Hollywood

What will be the movie title ?

Pepper

I wish that would be tru.....

FoxbaT · « **Reply #280 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 04:47 »

The wooden decks in the conningtower are glued in and weathered

I also highlighted the panellines with a brown/black wash, next step are the rust/dirt streaks.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #281 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 07:13 »

Rust applied....

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #282 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 07:27 »

CG looks AWESOME!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #283 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 07:29 »

Thanks

Just a quick look how it looks on the hull...

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #284 on:** 17 Feb , 2011, 10:22 »

Incredible, I love both pics! Could you tell this novice how you did the paneling with the brown/black wash? (how you applied it, with brush airbrush, etc)

FoxbaT · « **Reply #285 on:** 19 Feb , 2011, 18:18 »

Quote from: bracco_n on 17 Feb , 2011, 10:22

Incredible, I love both pics! Could you tell this novice how you did the paneling with the brown/black wash? (how you applied it, with brush airbrush, etc)

I airbrushed the panellines (Iwata HP-SB) with a very thin brown/black mixture (enamel), and after that i toned the lines down with a flexible sanding cloth with a very fine grid (i don`t know the brand of it but they are very usefull) by gently wiping over the airbrushed panellines and removing the overspray.
Because the sanding cloth is flexible, it doesn`t damage the rivets, so it`s perfect for this job.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #286 on:** 20 Feb , 2011, 07:02 »

Thank you Karel. What's next?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #287 on:** 20 Feb , 2011, 07:09 »

Well, the CT is glued on the hull.
Now i am busy with lots of small things; the schnorkel, the dive planes etc etc, the most time consuming jobs...

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #288 on:** 23 Feb , 2011, 12:17 »

I am going to display the boat on two transparent plastic rods of 9mm diameter, this way i hope it looks like the boat is `floating` in the display case, viewing from a distance.

I glued two aluminium tubes (30mm long, 9mm inside diameter) into the hull.
The plastic rods will be attached on the base plate of the showcase, this way i can slide the boat over the two rods and remove the model if neccesary.

I also mounted the forward diving planes, the rudders and the prop shafts

I made some rubber foam pieces to put the boat on, so i can work on the underside of the model.

Karel

Siara · « **Reply #289 on:** 23 Feb , 2011, 16:39 »

Superb modeling. Love it.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #290 on:** 24 Feb , 2011, 12:51 »

Thanks Siara

Finished the lifeboat container lids..

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #291 on:** 24 Feb , 2011, 14:07 »

That looks so real! Karel you are doing a masterpiece!
Here's an out of place question, but anyway: did you apply the oil canning effect to the saddletanks?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #292 on:** 25 Feb , 2011, 16:03 »

Here is your answer

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #293 on:** 25 Feb , 2011, 17:02 »

fine, fine paint/weathering

FoxbaT · « **Reply #294 on:** 25 Feb , 2011, 17:47 »

Today, i worked on the schnorkel.
Because the 995 had a ringschwimmer head on the schnorkel (as one of the few), i had to scratch a new head from pieces of sprue.

I also added a hydraulic line from 0.5mm brass wire in the bay, and on pictures i saw there were two steel wires/braces? on top of the hydraulic unit, i also made these from brass wire.

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #295 on:** 25 Feb , 2011, 17:58 »

Beautiful workmanship Karel!

bracco_n · « **Reply #296 on:** 25 Feb , 2011, 21:21 »

Those few touches really do the trick! Could you tell me how you did the painting of this particular piece? You got a really nice result and I'd like to learn how to do it!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #297 on:** 27 Feb , 2011, 07:23 »

That is difficult to tell...i use no regular technique for this kind of weathering.
First thing to do is basecoat the part with grey enamel (in case of the hydraulic unit) and let it dry for two days.
Then i applied different washes varying from brown to grey to black, and let the wash creep into al the corners.
Because the wash darkens the paint, the object has to be drybrushed with a lighter grey colour to bring depth into the object and highlight the edges and higher laying parts.
I also added a very dilluted mixture of white pigments to simulate dried salt seawater on some spots with a fine pointed brush.
Sometimes i also use a piece of sponge to add stains.

As said before, i use these (and other) techniques to achieve this result, but never in the same order, mostly i work on `feeling`.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #298 on:** 27 Feb , 2011, 10:12 »

I see what you mean, Thank you Karel. Keep it up!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #299 on:** 28 Feb , 2011, 07:02 »

The capstan and the aft navigation light are added

The anchor is also finished and glued on

Karel

conus00 · « **Reply #300 on:** 28 Feb , 2011, 10:15 »

Just one word: AMAZING!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #301 on:** 02 Mar , 2011, 09:10 »

Thank you Conus

The props are done; i painted the props with Alclad, and after that i added marine growth/fouling with a piece of sponge dipped in several colours of paint.

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #302 on:** 03 Mar , 2011, 04:19 »

brilliant! I bought metal, reshaped, acid and bleached and salt watered, but I think it would have been easier to use your brilliant technique, which i plan to do on the Gato. Beautiful!

Enigma · « **Reply #303 on:** 03 Mar , 2011, 21:37 »

I have to agree as well... there's no way I'd pay for brass props on my model if you can get results like these!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #304 on:** 04 Mar , 2011, 08:15 »

Thanks guys!

I added zinc anodes, i made them from pieces of PE brass plate.
The props are also glued on, and i applied some marine growth on the rudders and struts.

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #305 on:** 04 Mar , 2011, 11:48 »

You never stop amazing me Karel, that seaweed effect is awesome!

Enigma · « **Reply #306 on:** 04 Mar , 2011, 12:00 »

I think once you're done with U-995 you should build the Laboe Naval Memorial, just to show them what condition she *should* be in

FoxbaT · « **Reply #307 on:** 05 Mar , 2011, 18:55 »

I have been busy working on the deck railings.

I replaced most of the railings with 0.5 brass wire, which is better scale thickness.

I also made 4 turnbuckles which were used to tighten the cables between the railings.

For the turnbuckles i used brass tube from Albion Alloys with an outer diameter of 0.8mm, and an inner diameter of 0.4mm, and made four tubes of 5mm length.

I stripped a electrocable to aqquire 0.07mm wire to make the eyebolts, and soldered the wire into the tubes.

Find the turnbuckle....

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #308 on:** 06 Mar , 2011, 04:39 »

VERY impressive...but you could have used the (AMP) UBrass fro WEM...

FoxbaT · « **Reply #309 on:** 06 Mar , 2011, 08:19 »

Quote from: rokket on 06 Mar , 2011, 04:39

you could have used the (AMP) UBrass fro WEM...

That`s too easy...

I finished the railings and fixed the cables between them, didn`t like the job...

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #310 on:** 06 Mar , 2011, 13:12 »

How did you make the cables Karel?

FoxbaT · « **Reply #311 on:** 07 Mar , 2011, 07:16 »

Quote from: bracco_n on 06 Mar , 2011, 13:12

How did you make the cables Karel?

I made these from braided fishing wire, 0.12mm thickness, made from dyneema.

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #312 on:** 07 Mar , 2011, 07:23 »

Finished the life saving buoy`s

I made new rods/pipes, which are mounted on the fore and afterdeck.
(Does anyone knows the purpose of these parts?)

The Revell parts were bend, so i made new ones from brass, and combined them with the Eduard PE clamps.

The Revell parts..

I also soldered new antenna wire tripods from brass wire with a more accurate scale thickness

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #313 on:** 08 Mar , 2011, 14:23 »

I have been working on the periscope and other small things such as the UZO and the hatch in the CT.

The wires on the scope were made from 0.07mm copperwire.

I also made the PE `naxos` antenna

The periscope was kept in a good working order by greasing it sometimes, i replicated this by adding black oilpaint on the scope, and wit a dry brush i wiped most of the paint of again only to leave some black streaks.
This is difficult to see on the pics, soon i will make some better pics in daylight.

Karel

Enigma · « **Reply #314 on:** 08 Mar , 2011, 17:36 »

Quote from: FoxbaT on 07 Mar , 2011, 07:23

I made new rods/pipes, which are mounted on the fore and afterdeck.
(Does anyone knows the purpose of these parts?)

I'd say they'd most certainly have to be gaffs. Any boat of appreciable size should have them. What are they and how are they used? Quite simple... take a hook (usually bent back through 180 degrees) and stick it on the end of a pole, their main use is to hook a line in the water so you can haul it on deck and use it. I've seen simple ones made by poor fishermen made from a bent spike and a length of 1x2" wood, the hook attached with either a tight lashing or using a few inches of ABS pipe to heat-shrink it together. Modern commercial ones for yachting are made from extruded aluminum to create telescopic tubes, allowing you to vary the length, and they also have their hook made out of plastic, featuring a point on the end so you can also use it to push the boat off the docks when mooring.

I'd imagine docking in the pens would be very simple for the u-boats since they were more-or-less custom designs for the fleet, but things would get tricky when you're on the ocean trying to raft up with a milk cow. Something with the size and weight of a u-boat would require some decently sized mooring lines or hawsers in order to safely hold her in place, which means that they're heavy and thus makes throwing a line difficult. For a heavy hawser it's very common to have a much thinner leader line tied on to the eye of the hawser - throwing a small line is way easier! Alas, we are all human, and sometimes rope throws fail. This is where the gaff shines - dip it in the water and hook the leader line.

The gaff from my kit would scale up to 9 feet (3m), a rather practical length to use - the type VIIs draw about 4.75m at a full surface trim, thus 1.5m freeboard, so a 3m gaff would be quite useful. Useful yet small, and easily lost overboard, hence why you always want to carry two.

Hope this helps!

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #315 on:** 09 Mar , 2011, 07:29 »

A big and nice trip... Enjoying a lot FoxbaT.

Big Bro...

FoxbaT · « **Reply #316 on:** 09 Mar , 2011, 08:08 »

The guns are painted, weathered and mounted on the CT...

Karel

TRM · « **Reply #317 on:** 09 Mar , 2011, 10:40 »

Guns look superb, as does everything else!

bracco_n · « **Reply #318 on:** 09 Mar , 2011, 19:35 »

Impressive stuff Karel, those flak guns really do the trick!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #319 on:** 11 Mar , 2011, 05:57 »

The U995 is finished, high res pics are made today...

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #320 on:** 11 Mar , 2011, 17:29 »

Pics are made...

I would like to thank all of you who helped me with my questions.
You guys really helped me a lot and motivated me to make the best of this project!

A friend made some high resolution pics in RAW format which first has te be converted on his PC, in the meantime i will place some pics wich i made with my compact camera.

The other pictures will follow later

Karel

Johann Vilthomsen · « **Reply #321 on:** 12 Mar , 2011, 16:29 »

Rokket · « **Reply #322 on:** 13 Mar , 2011, 18:31 »

Johann perfect visual for this great build! Well Done FoxBat!!!

bracco_n · « **Reply #323 on:** 14 Mar , 2011, 12:52 »

Awesome Karel, just awesome. Your build is defnitely the best I've seen so far with Siara's U552. Well done!

Pepper-mint · « **Reply #324 on:** 15 Mar , 2011, 01:38 »

Contragts mate, great work, awesome u-boat !!!

If i may : the cables, hinges, deserves your skills, more details.

Cheers,
Pepper.

conus00 · « **Reply #325 on:** 15 Mar , 2011, 14:14 »

Nice build and GREAT weathering!
Waiting impatiently for hi-res pictures.

conus00 · « **Reply #326 on:** 23 Mar , 2011, 20:38 »

Any chance for hi-res pictures?
I'd like to save them for my archive as a future reference for weathering. I think it is excellent!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #327 on:** 24 Mar , 2011, 03:21 »

Thanks guys for the comments,

the high res pics will be made soon, when i have them i will post them immediately

Karel

Siara · « **Reply #328 on:** 24 Mar , 2011, 04:09 »

Fantastic looking model. One of the best U-Boats around. Congratulations.

FoxbaT · « **Reply #329 on:** 13 Apr , 2011, 07:51 »

A friend of mine made some new pics of the 995 in his photo studio.
One disadvantage of this forum is that the pics are being resized, a lot of details can`t be seen now.

Anyway, more pics....

Karel

NZSnowman · « **Reply #330 on:** 13 Apr , 2011, 12:52 »

Grea pictures Karel!

It look like she had a hard, long, last patrol!

reaper7 · « **Reply #331 on:** 25 Apr , 2011, 05:12 »

Quote from: FoxbaT on 13 Apr , 2011, 07:51

A friend of mine made some new pics of the 995 in his photo studio.
One disadvantage of this forum is that the pics are being resized, a lot of details can`t be seen now.

Karel

Hi Mate, I'm creating a model for Silent Hunter 5 (U-Boat sim) and love the look of your model.
I'd love to recreate it as a texture for the in-game model.
Is there any chance you could release your Hi-Res Pics in a .Rar file and post a link.

Would be very grateful.

Regards
Reaper7

iceonaboy · « **Reply #332 on:** 28 Apr , 2011, 06:14 »

My God! You would swear that anchor was made of solid metal and weighed half a ton!

Superb work Karel!

Anakin · « **Reply #333 on:** 29 Apr , 2011, 13:40 »

Stunning!

Really beautiful... Those props... I can see they are grey... Was it so that they used steel props later in the war? I think i

NZSnowman · « **Reply #334 on:** 29 Apr , 2011, 13:45 »

Quote from: Anakin on 29 Apr , 2011, 13:40

Stunning! Really beautiful... Those props... I can see they are grey... Was it so that they used steel props later in the war? I think i

Anakin · « **Reply #335 on:** 29 Apr , 2011, 14:36 »

Quote from: NZSnowman on 29 Apr , 2011, 13:45

Yes, they change to steel props because brass was hard to get near the end of the war

That

Plasticfanatic · « **Reply #336 on:** 29 Apr , 2011, 23:22 »

Superb looking model

Love the weathering, congratulations on a magnificent job.

Fred

FoxbaT · « **Reply #337 on:** 02 May , 2011, 15:15 »

Thank you so much guys for the kind words

Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #338 on:** 06 May , 2011, 20:04 »

really beautiful, our pleasure mate!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #339 on:** 09 May , 2011, 07:56 »

I have been thinking about my next project and i have made my decision:

I am going to build Revell`s 1/72 Flower class corvette `HMCS Snowberry`, maybe i am going to build it as the`HMS Bluebell`, i am still not sure about that.
The reason for building this kit is that it`s the same scale as the U995, and the Flower class corvettes operated mostlly in the North Atlantic, the same area where the U995 operated.
In other words; this is going to be U995`s opponent...
I am going to build this kit with most of the PE-kits that are available.

There is one drawback, i will start the build at the end of the year, for now i have other hobbies

In the meantime i will gather information, books etc etc about the flower classe corvettes.

When the time is there, i will open a topic in the `Destroyer` section.

Karel

Anakin · « **Reply #340 on:** 09 May , 2011, 09:01 »

iceonaboy · « **Reply #341 on:** 09 May , 2011, 09:20 »

Thats a nice boat to build. I never knew Revell even made these. I canny wait to see your results Karel

Rokket · « **Reply #342 on:** 11 May , 2011, 01:21 »

Nice choice and good reasons, Karel. Use the time wisely and we look fwd to seeing the build start!

Pat · « **Reply #343 on:** 12 Jul , 2011, 14:46 »

Quote from: Anakin on 29 Apr , 2011, 13:40

Stunning! Really beautiful... Those props... I can see they are grey... Was it so that they used steel props later in the war? I think i

FoxbaT · « **Reply #344 on:** 26 Jul , 2011, 12:06 »

I didn`t paint the props grey, i painted them stainless steel, and added some marine growth afterwards.
With some light on the props it can be seen they are shiny beneath the barnacles

Karel

FoxbaT · « **Reply #345 on:** 23 Oct , 2011, 13:22 »

I never participated with any model contest before, but this year i tested my luck with the U995, and i entered the U995 in the three of the most important model contests in The Netherlands and in Belgium this year;

-ModelForce in Helchteren, Belgium : http://www.moveleo.be/modelforce/index_en.html
-Scale Model Challenge in Veldhoven, Netherlands : http://www.scalemodelfactory.nl/smc01.html
-Euro Scale Modeling in Nieuwegein, Netherlands : http://www.ipms.nl/eindex.html

Yesterday, i took the U995 to the last event of the year, Euro Scale Modeling.
I am glad and proud to tell that i took gold at all three contests, i still cannot believe it....

I could not have done this without all the help i got from this forum, so thanks everybody who helped me when i had questions

Mission accomplished...

Karel

bracco_n · « **Reply #346 on:** 23 Oct , 2011, 13:54 »

Congratulations Karel! I'm not surprised by the awards, you have created a masterpiece!

iceonaboy · « **Reply #347 on:** 24 Oct , 2011, 07:05 »

Congratulations mate, although I cant say I am surprised as that boat is a work of art

SG · « **Reply #348 on:** 24 Oct , 2011, 14:02 »

Way to go Karel!

Greif · « **Reply #349 on:** 25 Oct , 2011, 08:00 »

Congratulations Karl! Your build deservedly won Gold at all three contests as it is simply superb. Well done indeed!

Ernest

Rokket · « **Reply #350 on:** 26 Oct , 2011, 02:05 »

Well done! An excellent display, and those look like very worthy, quality Golds. Congratulations!

Anakin · « **Reply #351 on:** 26 Oct , 2011, 09:02 »

Beautiful! Really earned trophies!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #352 on:** 27 Oct , 2011, 02:18 »

Thank you so much guys

Karel

Nevermind4712 · « **Reply #353 on:** 27 Oct , 2011, 02:42 »

A wonderful Boat!:)

...and i copy some techniques for my Boat, from this workbench i can learn a lot..thanks for it:)

Sniperonzolo · « **Reply #354 on:** 10 Feb , 2012, 05:03 »

i really love your work...
it's so daaaaaaam realistik....
looking for some tip...

btw this is benchmark one

TopherVIIC · « **Reply #355 on:** 10 Feb , 2012, 05:30 »

Well Done sir!

FoxbaT · « **Reply #356 on:** 11 Feb , 2012, 04:24 »

Thankss

Karel

Author Topic: U-995 Mission accomplished (Read 150654 times)

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