Author Topic: Simulating Wood  (Read 9252 times)

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Offline Greif

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Simulating Wood
« on: 19 Jan , 2010, 06:02 »
I use the following technique to simulate wood on styrene or resin.  First I paint the part a tan color with acrylic based paint.  After it cures for 12-24 hours I apply a mix of the following artist's oils:  Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna and Raw Umber mixed in a 1:1:1 ratio with a clean flat brush.  It is important to remember that with oils a little goes a long way.  Keeping that in mind pick up a small amount on the brush and starting from one end of the piece brush in the direction of the wood grain.  You want enough paint to give the piece a slight texture, simulating the grain of the wood.  Keep the brush strokes light and work to give a fairly even coat to the piece.  One of the advantages to using oils over an acrylic base is that you can wipe it off and start again if you don't like the effect without damaging the base coat.

Once you're finished painting set the piece aside to dry, which with oils takes a few days.  However, you can dry the oils out overnight by either using a surplus food dehydrator, or by making a drying box.  Take a cardboard box and rig a 60 watt bulb to hang inside the box, then put the piece under the light to dry.  Once the oils are dry, seal them with a gloss coat; I use future.  This protects the paint and really brings out the "wood grain".  This technique works very well with 1/32, 1/35 and 1/48 scale models and reasonably well with 1/72 scale.  It is easy to learn and makes very realistic looking "wood".

Ernest 

Offline Mike K

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Re: Simulating Wood
« Reply #1 on: 09 Feb , 2013, 12:26 »
I realize that this is a bit late to reply to, but here goes, anyhow.
I used my technique back when I was building sailing ships, large scale. It was used on 2 Thermopylaes, 1 Cutty Sark, 2 Constitutions (All Revel 1:96) and Heller's large scale Solie Royale, Galley Royale and HMS Victory.
First I'd spray the decks flat white (Testor's Spray) then give then a couple of days to dry. That part is easy, but the paint has to be completely dry. Otherwise the process doesn't work.
Next I'd get a can of Satin Stain wood stain and sealer. Using a half, or one inch, brush, I'd Paint over the surface. But series of single, continuous strokes, only. No overlap. This stuff dissolves the Testors like paint remover, but won't wipe off. so it has to be continuous strokes, NO Touch-up, for at least 2 days. It'll even craze bare plastic, if you try a second stroke. It can takes two or three applications to cover  everything. And lay the decks flat, to dry, otherwise it will run, NOT GOOD!
I used mahogany and maple for all, but HMS Victory, on her, I used oak. It looked really good, like oak long exposed to the weather. It matched the unfinished oak wood porch deck, at the back of our house.
Because of the wood grain and seams, cast on these decks, the sealer settles into the low points, making them darker. The stain also settles out, so when done, it looks and feels smooth.
Many people though the models were wooden models, due to the appearance of the decks. Not just the color effect, but it had the finished appearance of lacquered wood. So I was very satisfied with the results.
It has the advantages of being easy and simple, and you get pick the type of wood you want to simulate.. But the disadvantages are, it's very time consuming and, if you mess up, you'll need a new deck. There's no going back and fixing it. Major disadvantage!!
If anyone wants to try it, Good Luck. If there are any questions, I'm always here.
Diesel Boats Forever

Offline Rokket

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Re: Simulating Wood
« Reply #2 on: 20 Feb , 2013, 21:07 »
I really like that technique, Mike! I'm thinking of any projects where I can give it a try..hmmm. Nice and simple but sounds like awesome results.
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Offline OldNoob

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Re: Simulating Wood
« Reply #3 on: 06 Apr , 2013, 23:20 »
Here's a pic of the simulated wood deck on my Cutty.
in this case i had raised texture which help tremendously.




This method was not as refined as above.
However what i did was paint the deck brown and black.
Then after the first coats dried (cured) completely, recoated it with sand and beige.
Then after that coat just dried, i gently scraped off the sand and beige with a x-acto flat blade, going with the grain, untill the black and brown texture stared to show.
Next i GENTLY highlighted different boards with two different colors of furniture scratch touchup pens.
The touchup pens have to dry completely before touching up again otherwise with it will remove the paint below.
« Last Edit: 06 Apr , 2013, 23:26 by OldNoob »

Offline Rokket

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Re: Simulating Wood
« Reply #4 on: 12 Apr , 2013, 02:03 »
It really looks good!
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