USS Bream SS-243

[Division 6]

Hello,
My name is Eric.
I live in the US, Central California to be more precise.
About a 2 hour drive from the San Francisco Bay Area, my home until about 8 years ago.

I'm just recently getting back into modeling after being away for many years.
I actually jumped back in by joining a group build over on Fine Scale Model Forum building a couple PBY 5A Catalina's.
Some pix of the builds can be seen here http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y267/Division6/Models/

I've been lurking on the site for some time while doing research on the Gato sub model in preparation to get started on my own build.
I'm the one that gave Rokket the head's up about the Silversides article in the Tamiya Model Magazine.
Just signed up for the forum last night.

I've always loved submarines mainly from growing up watching war films so when I saw that they had a large model of the Gato I had to have it.

Little did I know how much was involved in working on this beast.

The boat I am building is the USS Bream SS-243
Gato Class Submarine: Laid down, 5 February 1943, at the Electric Boat Co., Groton, CT.; Launched, 17 October 1943; Commissioned USS Bream (SS-243), 24 January 1944; Decommissioned, 31 January 1946, at San Francisco, CA.; Laid up in the Pacific Reserve Fleet; Recommissioned, 5 June 1951; Decommissioned, 10 September 1952, for conversion to a Hunter-Killer Submarine; Recommissioned, USS Bream (SSK-243), 20 June 1953; Redesignated (SS-243) in August 1969; Reclassified Auxiliary Submarine (AGSS-243), 1 February 1964; Decommissioned, 28 June 1969, at Mare Island Naval Shipyard, Vallejo, CA.; Struck from the Naval Register and sunk as a target, 7 November 1969 by Sculpin (SSN 590). Bream was awarded four battle stars for World War II service.

She will be late war configuration.

Now as for the reason I picked this particular boat, since most folks have a reason be it relative of friend serving on one, historical record, current museum location, etc.

Well for me it's this.
Being a movie buff I wanted to depict a boat form a sub movie and one of my favorites is Run Silent, Run Deep with Clark Gable and Burt Lancaster.
Now in the movie the USS Nerka was a Balao Class played by the USS Redfish SS-395 a Portsmouth built boat.
The actual Nerka being a Manitowic was never completed.

Both boats would require a fair amount of rework and scratch building that are beyond my current skills, not to mention that the Redfish is rather ugly and missing most of the deck guns since the film was made in 1958.

BUT for a few moments as she is seen coming onto port they used footage of the USS Bream a Electric Boat, the same yard and build group as the Cobia that the model is based on.
In fact the Bream launched just a few months before the Cobia.

She had all guns and was in an attractive cut down configuration.

For this build I have recently purchased some after market parts as well as having some parts machined.
I have the Eduard  Gato Class Submarine Detail Set,  White Ensign Cut Down Conning Tower and Radars/Antennae PE sets.
I also had some Sonar Sound Heads machined up in brass (I have extras for sale for those interested)
I will also be adding some Czech Master's Crew on Watch (2 sets) and Warriors Scale Models Bridge Crew figures.
Blueprints from Floating Drydock are on the way.



The first order of business is the fairwater.
The main modifications to be made are the removal of most of the storage lockers, enlarging the aft cigarette deck and cutting down the top to the bridge to covered wagon style.

So far I have begun the removal of the lockers and have cut down the front of the bridge, the sides will be done after I assemble the PE framing and sheers ti ensure I cut in the correct places.

I have also begun the removal of the prop guard brackets since this boat didn't have them.

Also I have made frames for the marker buoys and have even attempted upper ring in brass sheet for the top of the buoy, unfortunately it didn't last the bending process so it will have to be attempted again later. 

Something in PE would be nice but I don't see it happening before I get this model built.
The ones offered by ISB are completely wrong.

The flood openings on the bottom have been marked but I am waiting for blueprints to make sure they are the correct configuration and to see which ones are open or have valve covers before cutting.
I also need to know where the sea chests go along the lower hull.

I just got some silicone molding putty and casting resin so I am hoping to replicate a few of the details on the deck to replace the area where the incorrect marker covers are as well as making a few open hatches.

I started marking off the rivet panel lines on the upper sides but will have to double check these once the prints arrive.
I'd like to try my hand at doing some oil canning on her.
I'm a real glutton for punishment.

Guess thats it for my long winded first post.
Looking forward to sharing the build with you and hope more of you will break out those models and join in.

Show this sexy boat some love.

Cheers.
Eric...

[Mr.Mox]

Very interesting, I for one will follow your build closely - if not for anything else, then to see where I goofed up my build 

Cheers/Jan

[aurora-7]

 Hello, Eric.

I've seen you around the Fine Scale forums. I'll be watching this build with great interest, as well.

You mentioned about IBS' fittings for the marker buoys being incorrect -is that just the case for your boat? I came very close last night to ordering them for my boat.

Isn't it fun when a little research can change your intended straight from the box build into a major mod project?

P.S. - I'm a big fan of PBYs as well (have Monograms 1/48s of the PBY-5 and PBY-5A waiting in the build que). Like the work your doing on yours.

[Division 6]

Hi guy's looking forward to your input as well.

aurora-7,
I thought your thread on the Tautog looked familiar.
The Marker Buoys have a thin rim on the edge with many round and square openings and 2 cover plates on top.
The ISB pieces don't look anything like those used on the boats.
notice the large image in the upper left of this collage.


Now compare it to the kit part ISB sells.

Best bet is to make them from scratch.

I'll post more later, have to go back to work.

Cheers.
Eric...

[Division 6]

Well I'm home from work.

I actually like the research part of a project since it gives you a sense of history and insight as to how things are made and function.
Sometimes the lack of information or cost of getting it can be a real problem.
Sadly many times people will tell you how great a reference book is and once you get it there is nothing you can use and many times I've already found the pictures and text on line months before.

Glad to see another PBY fan.
Besides the 2 1/72 Academy planes I am currently working on I also have the re-release of the Monogram 1/48 5A.
On the 2 I am working on one was a 5 that I converted to a 5A by adding the wheel wells.
It will be an in flight display while the 5A Black Cat version will be gears down.

Eric...

[Division 6]

Small update before hitting the rack.

Tried that silicone putty mold stuff but I didn't get the detail I wanted although I think if I pressed a bit harder it may have worked.
At the moment I using latex to make mold of the decking. slow but should work.

I started on the PE framing (covered wagon) since I'm new to PE it's going slow.
I'll take a few pix tomorrow.

Eric...

[Rokket]

Really nice to see the pix, Eric, thanks for introducing yourself and for showing us a great start!

[Division 6]

Disaster strikes.

I got down to the last few pieces of the framing and sheers assembly than discovered the scope tubes where angled forward and even though I cut them to the exact size listed on the instructions they came up short.

Fortunately acetone was able to soften the CA glue enough to remove the offending parts.
I think I'll work on something else for a while.

For anyone else planing to use the WEM cut down PE set add parts 15, 18 and 4 after the other parts of that assembly have been added to the tubes and framing, it will save some headaches.

last night I filled in the mounting holes for the prop guards since they are not used on this boat.

Eric...

[Rokket]

Aleays frustrating when things like that happen...but taking a break and not worrying will help! I mangled up my uboat bow pretty damned good when I changed plans halfway. But in the end I was able to restore it. Just took a little work...was scary tho!

[Division 6]

Frustrating in deed.
Working on my 2 PBY's I added a mounting hole on the bottom of one of them to display it in flight mode.
When I went to seal in up I realized I put it on the wrong plane. (oops)

Well here's a pic of the aft section with the mounting holes for the prop guards filled in with Magic Sculpt epoxy putty.
It will still need some spot putty but it's almost there.



Eric...

[Division 6]

Not to much done lately but I did some work on the venturi on the front of the fairwater.
Chopped the top off, added a wall and ribbing than reattached the front piece after it had been sanded down a bit.

Cut out the raised area inside the fairwater where the side doors are since I discovered it should step down inside.
It will be getting a new 'lowered" floor and bulkheads.

My blueprints showed up last night so I will be going over those to see what mods I need to make on the flood openings on the bottom and mark off the framing.


Eric...

[Division 6]

The Outboard Fittings General Arrangement Bu-SS212-62/7 print showing top and starboard side is just 5/16" short of the model length.

So over all with that, the correct placements for side exhaust openings, forward torpedo loading hatch, 20" motor boat hatch cover and a few other details can easily be placed on the model for boats falling with block numbers SS222-227  SS240-252.



Eric...

[Rokket]

very nice

[Division 6]

Well here's a small update of what I have been working on the last few days.

Here's a pic of the venturi mod as it started out.
Chopped down the fairwater than cut off the venturi and placed some sheet plastic with framing.


At the aft starboard side of the fairwater there is a bump that is tubing for part on the air induction system.
I attempted to scribe around the tube to make it look like the bulkhead was separate but that wasn't working so I chopped it off and cut a hole in the decking and added some sprue that was about the right diameter.
I also cut out the area where the side openings are and will be building an interior with vented bulkhead aft and part of the con pressure hull fore.



I also started working on the wood decking, cutting it down to the correct shape to fit.
It still needs a bit of work and I will have to fill in that area at the base of the front bulkhead with scrap from the cut offs.

You can see how thin I got the venturi.
In fact the solvent glue I used almost melted all the way through in a few places,


I started working on the framing that holds some of the wood decking over the hatch to the galley/crew area.
I plan to have that open.
Not perfect but most of it won't be seen anyway.


Well that's it for the moment.

Cheers
Eric...

[Rokket]

nice stuff, great ideas and a lot of work. Very cool!

[aurora-7]

Serious work, Eric. I like how the fairwater mod is coming.

[wildspear]

Mr. Division 6,

I'll be at The USS Silversides today, I'll get some good pics of the inside of the fairwater.

[Division 6]

Thank You My Friend.

And you can drop the Mr, we're all friends here.

Eric...

[Division 6]

Well I just got more blueprints (Outer Shell Expansion) in so I'm hoping to get some more work done this week.

Eric...

[Rokket]

Very exciting, getting plans and, well, making plans!

[Division 6]

Well here's a small update of something I've been working one.
Since it was brought to my attention that the boat I am building more than likely had flat Balao type shutters and since finding a pic of the Cobia with them (she launched a month after the Bream) I decided to go ahead and replace them.

At present I've removed the molded on doors, fixed the leading edge and started to install the flat plates the go in front of the doors, still need to install the bottom ones.
I have also started on the internal framing
From what I can tell from various EB boats they had a flat plate extending part way in with framing showing towards the middle where other yards had cut outs.



Eric...

[Rokket]

Wow, looks really nice! Keep those pix coming.

[Division 6]

Thanks.

I had forgotten I had a blueprint that confirmed that the Bream had the same doors as the Cobia.


I took a look at some of the other boats listed and from what I can tell they all have the holes along the top edge of the doors.
I'm not doing the holes just aft of the doors since the Bluegill (SS-242) that launched just before the Bream didn't have them an as far as I can tell neither did the Shark (SS-314) that launched the same day.

Eric...

[Rokket]

Cobia (has) the Flat Angled "Balao" style now, not sure if she started different or not.

SS241 Bashaw Oct 43 EB Balao Shutter CONFIRMED
SS242 Bluegill Nov 43 EB BorS Shutter (cant tell but NOT Valley, most likely Balao based on 241)
SS243 Bream Jan 44 EB (most likely Balao based on 241)
SS244 Cavalla Feb 44 EB Balao? Shutter (most likely Balao based on 241)
SS245 Cobia Mar 44 EB Balao? Shutter

[TAS]

A word of caution to all. I've spent most of my life doing drafting work and that includes making blueprints. Thay are not quite as perfect as some might think. The process has a tendancy to stretch the print ever so slightly- measuring short items gives the greatest accuracy-long distances may measure long! It all depends on many things, the humidity at the time the print was made, humidity at measurement time, type of b/p machine etc. Always, whenever possible, check direct print measurements with known published dimensions to get a feel as to how accurate your print is. And believe it or not, the thickness of the drawing has an effect on the print (light passing through, etc.). May not mean much to some people but others may want to know such things. And, the drawing was made by a HUMAN! Back in the day, things weren't as accurate as we can make them nowadays on a computer/plotter. Even some printers affect accuracy!

[Division 6]

Yeah I used to run 40+ foot long prints in a sign shop than have to try and tape them together.
Some of them where drawings I drew myself.
Even had problems with plotter tables.

You also get some sliding if the paper gets snagged or the feed is off.

I'm using the prints as a rough estimate and making a modified drawing that is closer to the model so I can figure out what the heck I'm doing, cross checking with photos, etc.

One of the prints I got had to have a 1' section removed since it repeated in the middle.

I've also been making notes on different items and I even made a scribing template out of clear plastic for assorted openings.

Eric...

[Division 6]

Nothing to show at the moment but I have been looking at the area behind the bow dive planes.

Someone over on Fine Scale asked about what's in there and Rokket posted a nice picture of the area with the entire outer shell and framing removed that I believe is of the Cavalla fixing up that recently took place.

Anyway to actually make it look correct in there part of the model structure will have to be removed inside on the top area to the side mounting pins at least and the pressure hull will need to be extended forward for the mechanism framing and gears to sit on plus that area is visible inside anyway weather you are putting the gearing in or not.

Shouldn't be to difficult to do with a bit of cutting and some sheet plastic.

It will have to take place later once the hull has been glued together.
Something down the road since there is much that needs to be done before then like cutting out the flood holes and doing some inside framing, etc....

Eric...

[Division 6]

Minimal work done.
Some putty work and a shot of primer to see how the bow looks.
Still needs some clean up than start work on internal framing and shutters.
Notice I also started cutting out part of the anchor well and have started to modify the kit's anchor so it will look more like the real ones.


I finally added the openings for the marker buoys and shot some primer on them as well to see how it looks.
In the first picture you can see that I scraped filled and sanded the old later model marker covers to remove them.
The second picture shows that i have marked off a grid over the old covers so I can drill the deck pattern to match the rest of the deck.
The drilling will have to wait till I replace my small drill bit that broke the other day when my pin vise took a dive off my desk.



I think next on the agenda it removing the aft capstan so it can be centered.
I have already made a mold of it so I can cast up a replacement.

Eric...

[Rokket]

Good stuff, love the fixes!

[IBS]

Mr Erik, I noticed you have been writing a lot slander  about me and products on other forums,  if you have your own hidden agenda is one thing, but before you go anal on my parts I do recommend you improve your  door knobs.   Mario

[Division 6]

Public threats on my person will get you nowhere especially since I have lots of friends that are police and FBI.
If you can't take a bad revue grow a spine little man.

You should have done this privately.
Now there is public record of your threat and if you do anything I will have the police at your door.

And I have no hidden agenda, your product is poorly made and not accurate.
People ask for opinions and options, so what.

If you actually made decent products no one would be putting them down.

At one point I was looking to buy some of your pieces but after doing minimal research found them to be WAY OFF.
I'll just make sure none of my friends waste their money on your wares.


Eric...

[IBS]

Stop your crying  , and go fix your door knobs.

[Siara]

Cmon guys- grow up will you?
This is not the place for such tug of war. If you have issues, sort them out through PM, or e-mail.
Can mod sort this mess out please?

[billp51d]

    What Siara said !! Lets stick with modeling... !!

[Rokket]

I believe the waters are calm now, and am certain they will stay that way

[chipper]

Eric, if you're still out there, what happened with your boat? 

[TAS]

Eric,
I agree, please keep us posted on your Bream progress. Your work has been inspirational so far, so please keep on sending those progress pics.