AMP - Accurate Model Parts
SEA => SUBS: Uboats => TYPE VII => Topic started by: Greif on 12 Nov , 2009, 08:38
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Hello all, I posted last week that I was going to try to use wooden rigging blocks, the type used by wooden sailing ship builders, to make insulators. The blocks I ordered arrived today and I have been working them into shape. I am sold that, for me at least, this is the best material to make insulators.
Picture one shows eight rigging blocks. The lower ones are in the original state, which is a bit to "squareish" to give a good representation of an insulator. The upper blocks are after a few minutes of sanding; they look much closer to the real thing.
Pictures two and three show a set of blocks rigged to simulate three insulators after general assembly. Once painted after completion I think they will look pretty good.
I used black rigging thread, again the type used by ship modelers, to join the "insulators". This thread works very well. It does not fray easily or have the "fuzzys" as it is waxed. The thread is a bit stiff, which makes threading tiny openings easier. I plan to use it for the shortning lines.
What do you guys think?
Ernest
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Hello all, I posted last week that I was going to try to use wooden rigging blocks, the type used by wooden sailing ship builders, to make insulators. The blocks I ordered arrived today and I have been working them into shape. I am sold that, for me at least, this is the best material to make insulators.
Picture one shows eight rigging blocks. The lower ones are in the original state, which is a bit to "squareish" to give a good representation of an insulator. The upper blocks are after a few minutes of sanding; they look much closer to the real thing.
Pictures two and three show a set of blocks rigged to simulate three insulators after general assembly. Once painted after completion I think they will look pretty good.
I used black rigging thread, again the type used by ship modelers, to join the "insulators". This thread works very well. It does not fray easily or have the "fuzzys" as it is waxed. The thread is a bit stiff, which makes threading tiny openings easier. I plan to use it for the shortning lines.
What do you guys think?
Ernest
Ernest:
The blocks look pretty good. Keep us posted on the progress. Also post information on how and where to order them.
Don
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Nasty little things... ;D Looks way better than Revell originals!
-Anakin-
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Thanks Don and Anakin for the kind comments. Don, I am complete with general construction. I have posted a picture in my U3 build thread. They turned out pretty well.
You can buy wooden rigging blocks from any number of online, or brick and mortar stores, that sell wooden ship model kit and fittings. If you decide to go that route get the Amati Walnut Rigging Blocks, 2mm in length. They are pretty uniform in size, well made, and easy to sand into shape but will withstand some "tweezering".
Ernest
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Thanks Don and Anakin for the kind comments. Don, I am complete with general construction. I have posted a picture in my U3 build thread. They turned out pretty well.
You can buy wooden rigging blocks from any number of online, or brick and mortar stores, that sell wooden ship model kit and fittings. If you decide to go that route get the Amati Walnut Rigging Blocks, 2mm in length. They are pretty uniform in size, well made, and easy to sand into shape but will withstand some "tweezering".
Ernest
Thanks for the information, Ernest. I plan to go to your thread next to check out your boat.
I am in the early stages of my build having just scratched a pretty basic pressure hull. On Siara's advice I don't plan to add too much detail -maybe exhausts, torp cannisters and the air group cylinders, since they will be barely visable through limber holes. It was something of a chore getting everything to fit, and the real test will be joining the hull halves since, no matter how much test fitting, the real real test comes with gluing it together. That's still in the distant future.
I know that many modelers see a pressure hull as a pointless exercise, but it was a chance to expand my building skills plus the satisfaction of a job well done.
While the insulators are way off in my build I feel better knowing there is a product that will work when I get there.
Thanks again, and happy modeling.
Don
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Greifs post in TII - the blocks work well.
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Don - not pointless, p-hull is one of those "not visible but conspicuous if missing" things, and def worth the effort and for the reasons you state.
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Don - not pointless, p-hull is one of those "not visible but conspicuous if missing" things, and def worth the effort and for the reasons you state.
Thanks, Rokket. It's nice to know there are like-minded folks out there. In the final analysis we all build for the severest critic of all; ourselves.
Of course it's nice to pick up a contest award from one's peers now and then, but they see the model for an hour or two while we see it every day.
Don
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Greifs post in TII - the blocks work well.
The insulators are one of those nagging little problems we all try hard not to think about until we come to the point where we must. It's good to know we have another option now.
Ernest:
I checked out your build thread and all I can say is wow! Nicely done. I take it you were able to repair the destruction wrought by your sister-in-law's little human depth charge. Moments like that can be heart stopping. A friend of mine loves cats, but one of them knocked an award winning model of his off a high shelf with predictable results: a complete write-off. (Whether he still loves his cats or not is unknown as he has never spoken of the incident again.)
What are your next projects? Is another boat in your immediate future?
I plan to begin another one directly after U96 is finished. (assuming this one doesn't kill me, of course.) Hopefully I will have learned enough from this build to improve my detailing skills. I have fallen in love with scratchbuilding and am feeling more and more comfortable about working styrene. Nothing I do will match Siara's metal work or micro-detailing abilities, but, with luck, and a good tail wind it will be a good model.
OBTW: Do you plan to have Kreigsmarine ensign on your model? My reason for asking is that I understand displays of the WWII German National emblem are something of a touchy subject in your neck of the woods and was wondering how modelers deal with that issue?
In any event, I enjoyed following your build and learned a lot in the process. Thanks for sharing your boat.
Don
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I understand displays of the WWII German National emblem are something of a touchy subject in your neck of the woods and was wondering how modelers deal with that issue?
Usualy people from Germany cover the emblem with strips of the masking tape. Not the best visual solution if you ask me, but one to keep the PC brigade away.
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Hi Don, thanks for the complement on my U228. It turned out rather well and I did manage to repair the damge my nephew wrought. It now sits on my brother-in-law's mantle, covered with a nice glass case.
Once I am finished with my Type IIa U3 build I plan to build a 1:48 scale Bf110D. The kit is one of Eduard's newer production batch, very nice. I have asked for the Andrea Deck Gun in 1:32 scale for christmas, hopefully my frau will come through. I plan a nice little diorama with the kit when/if I get it, using a couple techniques I learned for simulating water on my Type IIa build, which is coming down to the final stages. I should be finished with the Type IIa by late this coming week.
As far as displaying the Hakenkreuz on my models, I do so, and I do not cover them up at home. I am a historian as well as a modeller and the symbol represents history as it actually was; and not to display it on a period model does in injustice to history - and the men who made that history. When I have a model in a contest, I have yo follow german law and cover it up, pretty much the way Siara discribed. So far, I have not had any problems with any people who have viewed my models at home. Hopefully, it stays that way.
Sincerely,
Ernest
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Hello! It's my first post here and I want to say hello to everybody!
While I was building my type VIIC/41 U-boat I also come across the insulator problem. I am a little short on money and was short on time with local modell contest so I picked, I think, the cheapest way to make insulators. I bought modeling clay for 6zlotys (1,5euro), mixed colours brown and green and form it into a little insulator-ish roller. I put it into a boiling water for about 10 minutes. After this procedure my rollers was hard enough to grind. I made grooves with a edged file. The final effect:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_PPZq1gA9r7Y/SvYF8UcPvII/AAAAAAAAEyk/6GiLaZoxsK4/s400/IMG_7165.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_PPZq1gA9r7Y/SvmyYqcLXhI/AAAAAAAAEzA/yoGTcZKFO10/s400/IMG_7167.JPG)
I know they are about two times too big but they look quite well when you are not looking at the photographs of the orginal too often.
I used a 0.25mm fishing plaiting to make the wire.
I hope you all understand what I am writing... I haven't used English for a while...
best wishes!
Ostach from Poland!
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Welcome aboard :) and a nice picture of your boat.
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Nice to see you here Ostach. ;)
Polish contingent is growing.
Hope this isnt your last boat, as it turned out lovely.
More pictures pls.
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Hi and welcome Ostach. Very nice uboot! I like the insulators better then my "wooden rigging block" method, they look very very nice.
Ernest
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Thank you very much for the nice welcome!
It is possible to make insulators a little smaller. But I don't know if the grooves may by grinded on such small surface.
I'll shot some more photos of my u-boat on weekend and the full gallery will be posted here for sure :)
Hope this isnt your last boat, as it turned out lovely.
More pictures pls.
Maybe something smaller this time? I'm considering a Seehund by ICM. In future I hope on making type IIA in 1/72nd scale. But now I'm back in planes :D
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Hi All!
I am also interested in the insulator sources. You have given me alot of ideas when I am ready. I have a long way to go on my U-805 project before I need to make insulators but I will keep an eye on this thread....
Thanks,
Dan
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Hi, I have another solution for the insulators.
I've been building and selling sailing ships for years, and found that the cost of the prefab wooden blocks got to be too much, and as was already mentioned, they required a lot of sanding to round off the edges which are usually too square. Sanding these little things is very difficult since there's nothing to hold onto. (You could stick a pin through the hole as a handle)
What the group I modelled with started to do instead was to make our own, and it's a lot easier than it might at first seem. If you make them out of spare plastic sprue, they also won't have the wood grain and can be polished to look more like the real ones, and you can make them any size you want.
What you do is take a dowel (or plastic sprue) and first shape it lengthwise to the dimensions of of the face of your block (insulator). Keep in mind that the part is going to be oriented lengthwise along the sprue.
After you have the shape you want, cut the grooves in lengthwise along the sprue. The easiest method is to use the edge of a triangular needle file. For the insulator shape, you'll probably want 4 grooves in total.
Next, mark off the length of one insulator, mark THAT length on a piece of scrap and then use iit as a jig to measure the lengths for all the insulators you're going to make out of the sprue.
Then, again with the edge of a triangular needle file, make a notch at each mark to give you an idea of what the dimensions of the finished insulator are going to be.
Drill out the holes for the "cable", remembering to rotate 90
degrees for each hole, with one hole at what will be each end of the finished insulator.
Once you have all the holes drilled, use a round needle file to round out the inner edges of each hole like the real insulators, and whatever file you find appropriate to round over the insulator at each end..
Finally, cut the insulators off at the notches and voila, you have insulators of the proper scale size. Do not cut off the insulators until you're happy with the shape since they're much easier to work with when still all together on the sprue.
I know it sounds complicated but once you've made the first one and gotten the hang of it, (You'll probably throw your first one out anyway as you'll be happier with all the rest), it goes quite fast. I've been able to make about a dozen blocks/insulators in about 10-15 minutes, and they turn out looking much better than any mass-produced ones I've seen.
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Pat, what a fantastic technique! I will use it when it comes time for the current project I am working on. Still a longgggg way off!
Ernest