U-552 - doing it my way.

[Anakin]

Thanks Siara and Don!

I

[Siara]

My pleasure- hope you enjoy using the paste, as much as i did.
Since i got the Koki paste my modeling has changed for good.

[Rokket]

ahhh, magic paste, that's your secret!

Somehow I think the koki just made a difficult task slightly easier, I'd say your skill was always way up there!

[Don in Cincinnati]

Advice needed:

I hope Siara doesn't mind my posting a modeling qiestion on his thread. With all the attention his build has been getting I figured this would be the place that would get me the most responses.

Okay, here's the problem: I am attempting to attach photo etch parts to the Nautilus wood deck with CA , but the very tiny pieces -like the non slip strips atround the deck gun- pop loose. I use CA gel applied to the part with a toothpick, set it in place and add accelerator. Some pieces adhere just fine but others fail to bond well and I fear they will come loose and get lost.

I'm wondering if the super glue is being absorbed into the wood before it can form a bond. (?) Should the wood deck be sealed first? Can you tell me what I am doing wrong, or not doing right? If you have encountered this problem and have solved it, or if you have a suggestion please help me out.

Don

[Siara]

I had no problems fixing this antislip strips.
What i have done- i sanded the deck using 600 grit sandpaper to get rid of all the fuzzy bits, and then i used the thick CA called Grip.
No problems.

One more advice with PE parts- turn them over, and scratch some with tip of your craft knife in different directions, or using sandpaper scar the PE underneath, so the glue will get better grip. I always use this technique where good adhesion is required.

[Mr. Bill]

Siara is spot on as always - PE will form a very secure bond using CA if the bonding surface is firstly roughed up a bit with sandpaper.  I have found that paint will adhere better to PE when the parts are treated in this same manner.

Regards,

Mr. Bill

[Don in Cincinnati]

Siara is spot on as always - PE will form a very secure bond using CA if the bonding surface is firstly roughed up a bit with sandpaper.  I have found that paint will adhere better to PE when the parts are treated in this same manner.

Regards,

Mr. Bill

Thanks to you, Mr Bill, and to you, Siara for your help. I appreciate you taking out time to help.

Don

[Rokket]

I'd agree that would work. I stained and sealed my deck first, that worked too.

[Don in Cincinnati]

I'd agree that would work. I stained and sealed my deck first, that worked too.

As a matter of interest did you stain your deck before or after it was glued to the hull? Which way would you recommend?

Also I notice both you and Glen Cauley used stain rather than paint on the deck. I mention this only because Nautalis specifically recommends paint rather than stain. Personally I like the stained look on both models.

Don

[Pat]

Good advice from Mr. Bill, rokket and Siara.

There are two things happening when you score/sand/file a surface before using glue or paint.

The first is that you microscopically are creating more surface area for the solution to adhere to, in some cases you may even be doubling the area, which of course makes for a better bond.

The second is that some of the scratches actually undercut the surface, which lets the hardened paint/glue key into it, much like a dovetail joint in carpentry.

As for staining the deck as rocket mentioned, that

[Siara]

This is true about the stain looking more realistic.
Only question is- will it stop the moisture?
Wooden deck needs to be sealed to stop the moisture from the air entering the pores, and cosequently deforming the deck, or in extreme cases cracking the hull.
I went with Nautilus advice, and sealed the deck both sides before fixing.

[Don in Cincinnati]

Good advice from Mr. Bill, rokket and Siara.

There are two things happening when you score/sand/file a surface before using glue or paint.

The first is that you microscopically are creating more surface area for the solution to adhere to, in some cases you may even be doubling the area, which of course makes for a better bond.

The second is that some of the scratches actually undercut the surface, which lets the hardened paint/glue key into it, much like a dovetail joint in carpentry.

As for staining the deck as rocket mentioned, that

[Rokket]

Pat, excellent explanation about surface area being two part (I liken this to tires, people always say treads = more surface area - yes, but LESS is contacting road, yet it is the squishy-ness that in some vague way is like your glue example. Or something.)

I stained mine with a stain that was water washup (usually I only like toxic enamel/oil) and had a built-in urethane seal, one step. Worked great, THEN drybrushed (killing 2 paint brushes) many diff charcoals and blends to mke weathered and warn anti-foul Schiffwhatever.

[Pepper-mint]

Hi Siara,

I don't know what kind of words i could use to describe the feeling left after a 44 pages "U-552 - doing it my way" walk !

As i said, this forum is a gift. So many talented and generous people...

I hope to obtain your high quality renderings ; if i have to build only one U-Boat i would put all my passion and skills on duty. Like you do !!!

Amazing, i love your technics.

Cheers,
Pepper-mint. 

[Siara]

Im glad you like my build Pepper- mint.
Hopefully one day i can find the carpenter, which can make the base for glass tank.
So far two attemts, and two dissapointments.
I just bought another plank, so will be trying for the third time.