U-552 - doing it my way.

[Siara]

Don- for the general hull rivets i used the Trumpeter tool, because i believe in such scale the rivets should be barely visible. And indeed when looking at the model, you can only see the rivets at the right angle- against the light.
For the doubler strips i have cut thin alu foil, and indented the rivets in it using the same tool. This rivets are raised.
Like Wink said- if you like all your rivets raised- then go for the Archer Fine Transfers rivets- i bought them, but did not use the set- i will use it on some vehicle one day.

Wink- the wood is just styrene, which i carved to imitate the wood, and then painted layer, after layer to end up with different shades of gray- like the old weathered wood. Only some will be visible from under the shevrons tho.

[Rokket]

If you'd like to give more detail (I know you're busy), it would make a great reference for the Library section.... I imagine too that knowing the technique means nothing without heaps of practice doing it! Stunning, a true miniature. I want to build one now to practice myself! Somehing out of weathered wood! Anything!

[Don in Cincinnati]

Don- for the general hull rivets i used the Trumpeter tool, because i believe in such scale the rivets should be barely visible. And indeed when looking at the model, you can only see the rivets at the right angle- against the light.
For the doubler strips i have cut thin alu foil, and indented the rivets in it using the same tool. This rivets are raised.
Like Wink said- if you like all your rivets raised- then go for the Archer Fine Transfers rivets- i bought them, but did not use the set- i will use it on some vehicle one day.

Wink- the wood is just styrene, which i carved to imitate the wood, and then painted layer, after layer to end up with different shades of gray- like the old weathered wood. Only some will be visible from under the shevrons tho.

Siara:
Thanks for the help. Until seeing your boat in progress (Along with a few others) I'd never envisioned getting into this level of detail. My learning curve must be nearly a vertical line since coming to the AMP forum.

Another big shout out to Dougie for his encyclopedic knowledge of U-boats and his unstinting willingness to share it.

The decision about raised vs indented rivets is on hold right now until I look at a lot more reference photos. I'm not sure at this point whether I am ready to take the step of sanding off all the rivets. It may be beyond my skill level.  (But it is under consideration.) Right now I feel like someone who has climbed up onto the high diving board to impress his friends and is now faced with the thought that I may have to jump!

Keep up the good work. You are an inspiration to all of us to reach a little higher.
 
Don

[Siara]

Jump Don!
Your skills will improve during this build, and you come out the better modeller.

[Rokket]

I jumped, nearly dashed head on rocks, but came out OK.

[Don in Cincinnati]

I jumped, nearly dashed head on rocks, but came out OK.

Maybe you should elaborate about that "dashing head on rocks!" part, Rokket.

In any event, thanks for the encouragement, guys. I'm giving it serious thought. I really need to do more reference study. I am going ahead with ordering the Trumpeter Rivet tool and will do some practice work. More on this later.

In the meantime I'm working up a scratchbuilt pressure hull, or maybe I should say the front and rear sections. The center section will be the top portion only. I plan to keep it simple with only details that might be seen through the limber holes or other cut-outs.

In essence the plan is to cut a center spine using the hull profile and then add circular bulkheads set at 90 degrees along the spine. (all of .040 styrene sheet.)  Then I will skin the shapes with .010 stryrene sheet. In shape it will look sort of like the old balsa model airplane kits.

It's looking good in the early going.

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

[Siara]

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

So we are all the same. We all started the same way, and then fell in love with the U-Boat we were building, and wanted to do the best job possible. Welcome to the club Don.  ;-)
As to the pressure hull- just do the bare essentials, as not much is visible afterall- wish i never put so much effort and time into mine.

[Don in Cincinnati]

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

So we are all the same. We all started the same way, and then fell in love with the U-Boat we were building, and wanted to do the best job possible. Welcome to the club Don.  ;-)
As to the pressure hull- just do the bare essentials, as not much is visible afterall- wish i never put so much effort and time into mine.

Let me suggest something to you that is hard to explain, Siara, and on the surface makes little sense.

I have only been modeling for the past 13 years having come to the hobby late in life. (Age 73 in a few months.), but I have noticed that often a model that has hidden detail somehow still looks better sitting on a table next to the same exact model that doesn't. (I'm not talking about mine now.) I can't explain it, and it might just be psychological, but It seems so to me. Perhaps the love of doing quality work shines through in other ways.

 I don't intend to spend countless hours detailing something that will never be seen, but on occassion it is satisfying to know "it's in there."

[Siara]

Little update from the bench:


 

Time to remove some paint to expose some wood.

[Rokket]

Don - I see  what BOTH you and Siara are saying. I agree, the model with the barely visible "under the hood" detail has a certain magic. It's like backstory in movies - maybe a fully rich story is never really shown more than a tiny tiny bit onscreen or in a book, but whatever the story, the flavor helped the author. So I get that and agree!

But I see what Siara is saying, and agree with that totally too - the bottom line with this model is, you want some detail that is magically behind the hull, but yet it doesn't have to be massive t have that special "real" effect. I bult a whole nose and stern p-hull. but just the top of the center part as you say. I added a gun platform very rough, so that looking thru the slot you would see "somtehing" - same for conning tower. I added frames with holes for the bow (ony on my display side, I cheated), and they are invisible, but a casual side glance and you can see "something" - worth it I think.

[Rokket]

Siara - stunning as always, yes, add some "minus paint"

[Don in Cincinnati]

I just want you to know this whole build started out with the idea that it would be a simple out-of-the-box effort until I came here.

So we are all the same. We all started the same way, and then fell in love with the U-Boat we were building, and wanted to do the best job possible. Welcome to the club Don.  ;-)
As to the pressure hull- just do the bare essentials, as not much is visible afterall- wish i never put so much effort and time into mine.

Siara:

Any progress on the insulator problem?

I found some tiny Japanese glass beads at a local craft shop, but they are round, not oval. A shame, since they are a glossy bottlegreen with no need for paint. Also found some small braided wire for craft necklaces that looks like it might be close to the scale of the jumper wires. I'm a long way from that step but I try to keep my eyes open for things that might solve future modeling problems.

Spent the weekend scratchbuilding the front and rear pressure hull sections. Upon completion the rear section did not fit. Not even close.   I tried modifying what I had built, but ended up hacking it up so bad it went in the waste basket. This morning I started over and things are working out a little better. I'm still awaiting PE and decals from WEM on backorder since humans started walking erect.

There's a chill in the air here in the mid-west USA, but the fall colors are spectacular. I hope this message finds everyone well.

[Siara]

...and i was exploring rust today:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Reference39/RustReference#

[Greif]

Hi Siara, long time since we last spoke (wrote that is)!  Your model is spectacular, a true work of art.  You are gifted my friend. 

Like Don, I am interested in if you found other solutions for the "insulator question", other the the green stuff you used.  I am approaching the phase in my Type IIa build that will require me to scratch build some, and I'm not sure if my skills are up to shaping 21 or so oval shaped pieces of - whatever material I eventually will have to work with.  If there is an alternative I would jump on it.  If I find something I will be sure to share with the group.

As an aside, I am doing a bit of "kitbashing" to contruct the torpedo loading equipment for the scene I will be modelling.  The equipment is much different from that used on the Type VII's and IX's.  Hopefully, it will turn out as well as the "water" did.

Ernest

[Don in Cincinnati]

...and i was exploring rust today:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Reference39/RustReference#

Ah, the joys of rust. Is it any wonder our significant others look at us askance from time to time?

From your link I take it you are looking not only at color, but texture?

With that thought in mind are you familiar with a product called Rustall? It's a water based liquid made in the US which, when brushed on in a light application dries to a very convincing rustlike finish. The first applications tend to settle in cracks and corners for a slightly rusted finish, but further coats can be added to give a totally rusted look. Car modelers have used it for years to produce very convincing junkers and abandoned cars. And, perhaps equally as good it cleans up in brushes with soap and water.

I have used it with reasonable success in combination with pastels and paint over smooth or textured styrene.

It is available from Kuras design Group, San Francisco USA.