Author Topic: Resin conversions  (Read 11246 times)

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Offline aptivaboy

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #15 on: 12 Aug , 2009, 18:25 »
The problem with filling in the side limber hole plates is that the whole piece was shaped differently from Electric Boat to Portsmouth plans. The EB side plates are more angular and straight up front, while the Portsmouth/Mare Island ones fitted snugger, for lack of a better word to the top of the circular hull section, following the curve of the hull better. This was perhaps because (as in Alden) EB and Portsmouth had different ways of constructing the pressure hull, one yard building a more circular pressure hull and the other slightly more ovoid from top to bottom. That's IF I read Alden right, and I may well not have. 

If you just fill in and rescribe the kit plating, then you'll basically have an EB side plate with Portsmouth limber holes that won't look right. Nautilus Models has side plates that may work for you. I've not physically handled them, but they're listed on their website.

Robert
 

Offline Rokket

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #16 on: 13 Aug , 2009, 03:16 »
I'm not seeing that in photos, I might be misunderstanding. Can you elaborate or do you have any photo or sketch comparisons that might help my small brain?
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Offline aptivaboy

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #17 on: 13 Aug , 2009, 23:13 »
If you look at an EB boat, the side casing at the bow where those D-shaped holes are is fairly straight and leaves some space between itself and the hull sides. This photo of Cod shows what I mean http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/0822405.jpg.

Compare the same area to Drum: http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/0822801.jpg . The casing is shaped differently aft of the dive planes, plunging further down the hull than on an EB boat (Guardfish: http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/0821703.jpg) The whole casing from bow to stern fits much closer or snugger to the hull sides on a Portsmouth boat, conforming to the hull sides much closer. They're similar, but the shapes are different enough. The kit pieces would need extensions to make them fit closer down the model's sides to properly represent a Portsmouth boat. Otherwise, that larger EB slot between casing and hull would exist on the model, especially aft of that bow region to the stern. The Guardfish photo really shows off that slot compared to Drum.

I've read somewhere that the actual curvature from side casing to main deck is sharper on one plan's boats than the other, but I've not seen any plans to factually support that. That may be truth or Gato urban legend.

Robert

Offline Division 6

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #18 on: 14 Aug , 2009, 07:34 »
I see what he's saying.
The side skirt is almost flush with the pressure hull on the MI and Pnsy where the EB and Manitowoc sides don't make contact with the hull, there is a gap.


Eric...

Offline bill_c

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #19 on: 14 Aug , 2009, 12:20 »
I'm not seeing it in the photos, as the left-hand portion of the MI plates look to have the same gap, but that's not my real point.

1.) Where the HELL would I get the plans for the MI limber holes, LOL????

2.) AMP has a bunch of projects in the pipeline. When might they be realized? I know the torpedo tube corrections are next on the list. This resin kit sounds wonderful, I'm not a rabid scratchbuilder.

Offline Division 6

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #20 on: 14 Aug , 2009, 13:08 »
The MI sides appear to only be an inch or so from the hull all the way down the side where the EB opens up near the bow.
The MI has the limber holes instead of the large gap at the bottom.
In the picture posted above the top pic is tword the rear of the Silversides where the bottom pic if twords the front of the Cobia.

Spend some time looking through the different images at NavSource and you will notice the differences between yards. ;)

Check with floating drydock to see if he carries prints of MI boats.

Eric...


« Last Edit: 14 Aug , 2009, 13:13 by Division 6 »

Offline Division 6

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #21 on: 14 Aug , 2009, 13:11 »
Notice that there is no gap on the Wahoo along the side.
http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/0823816.jpg

Offline Rokket

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #22 on: 14 Aug , 2009, 23:40 »
It looks like even some Portsmouth boats had variation, some with a a swooping curve just past the bow dive planes too. Different boats seem to be slightly different. From What Ted Swiders says, the Pressure hull was slightly different. The first 2 yards past the bow plane def seem to angle in, yet extend slightly farther, implying a slighlt different curve to the hull there (because otherwise extended panels would have to flare OUT not in).

AMP - Accurate Model Parts - http://amp.rokket.biz

Offline aptivaboy

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #23 on: 16 Aug , 2009, 00:24 »
Yup, that graphic shows off exactly what I was trying to say about the hull shape (but did it far better!! :)). For a look at how the section aft of the bow planes was so variable, look at a photo of Pampanito, there. She had room for three rows of limber holes; her casing really bulged and plunged, there. The oval limber holes also vary in size along the casing. The photo on the cover of the Classic Warships book really shows it off. A number of the Portsmouth Balaos had their casings pinched-in casing aft of the tower, and then bulge out again just in front of the after deck gun location, creating a wavy look to their decks in plan view. This is why I'm so paranoid about even attempting a Portsmouth boat, although there are many that I'm interested in.

Robert
 

Offline Rokket

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #24 on: 16 Aug , 2009, 01:08 »
Yes, good points, I was slow to get it!

I think a PE curved guide for the hull shape would do it - modelers could adjust the hull slightly - perhapsnot true-scale correct, but at least to suggets the hull was a Portsmouth...
AMP - Accurate Model Parts - http://amp.rokket.biz

Offline bill_c

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #25 on: 16 Aug , 2009, 11:08 »
I presume all this means the Eduard PE set EDU 53029 is a waste of money?

Offline Division 6

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #26 on: 16 Aug , 2009, 12:49 »
It will put pretty little rivet patterns on an EB boat.

Their decking is post war.
I have their detail set that has some nice stuff like the drain holes under the chain locker, bit's for detailing the guns and parts of the fairwater.
It also includes screens to go over the ballast tank openings that from my understanding wasn't done till after the war.
I plan to use a couple of them for the sea chest covers towards the rear.

Eric...

Offline bill_c

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #27 on: 16 Aug , 2009, 13:03 »
Their decking is post war.

I have their detail set that has some nice stuff like the drain holes under the chain locker, bit's for detailing the guns and parts of the fairwater.
It also includes screens to go over the ballast tank openings that from my understanding wasn't done till after the war.
I plan to use a couple of them for the sea chest covers towards the rear.
Which detail set? Do you mean EDU53028? Or are your referring to more than one???

You guys know all this stuff but I'm pretty knew to Gato-class boats, so please be specific about the sets you're referring to.
« Last Edit: 17 Aug , 2009, 08:59 by bill_c »

Mike K

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Re: Resin conversions
« Reply #28 on: 16 Aug , 2009, 13:38 »
Bill C., if you're doing a Portsmouth Balao or Tench, drop me an email. I've got a few drawings and might be able to help. <<mkeatingss@cox.net >>

Mike K.

Offline Division 6

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