REVELL 1/72 V11C/41 RAILS

[LASTPACIFIC]

Hello Gentelman, Hi my name is Glenn and I'm new to this forum and what I've seen and read, there is alot of hi end workmanship here. I,m building a 1/72 scale Revell VIIC /41 and I was almost finished when disaster struck, dose any one have any spare rallings they sell or trade for I have some cmk gun kits, brass and wood decks and some photo etch and a yankee modelworks upper pressure hull all for 1/72 u-bouts you can contact me at,lastpacific@aol.com thank you very much. regards Glenn

[Rokket]

Hi Glenn,

First, WELCOME!

2nd - SORRY to hear of your loss. That hurts. Better to have the car dinged and easily repaired, than hours of work and pieces of yourself lost.

Hopefully someone has something useful...

[LASTPACIFIC]

thank you rokket, I tried to post some photos but was unable to do so maybe I'm doing something wrong. regards Glenn

[Rokket]

We've expanded e photo limit..hmmm..try again, and if you still have trouble, let me knw, we'll see what we can do

[Don in Cincinnati]

Hi Glenn,

First, WELCOME!

2nd - SORRY to hear of your loss. That hurts. Better to have the car dinged and easily repaired, than hours of work and pieces of yourself lost.

Hopefully someone has something useful...

Glenn:

I don't have any spares so all I can offer is advice. Have you considered scratchbuilding the rails out of brass or copper wire?  I have done so on smaller scale Type VII's (1/125 scale) with good results. If you have soldering skills go to Siara's thread U552 My way on this Forum to see what can be done.
If, like me, your soldering skills are not up to snuff you can also use CA (Super Glue) for the connecting points. It's worth a try. One tip if you decide to go this route: Heat the wire to a cherry red and then let it cool before shaping it. This simple annealing process makes bending a lot easier.

Don

[Pat]

Like Don, I don't have much experience in soldering.  I've done it on simple bits but keep having a problem when the piece gets too many joints and one melts every time I try to add another.

I've also done the CA and find it works most of the time, but sometimes even those joints can be fragile (I've lost one of the 20mm locking frames because of a joint letting go).

So an idea I've been thinking of is to use two different sizes of brass wire (I think Siara said they should be two different sizes anyway) and drill holes in the larger one that the smaller wire would go through.  Brass is soft enough to drill quite easily. 

I've never made a railing this way, but I've made many other parts like this, so I think it will work.  My main concern is getting the holes lined up well enough to make it look right.  There's a lot of holes that would have to be drilled, but I think I could alternate hole/CA, hole/CA to cut down on the work.

If it DOES work, and you're not in a hurry (it might be a while yet before I do them, and I need the kit railings to take measurements from), then maybe I could send you the kit railings? 

[Siara]

I dont think the drilling method would work.
The railings were made from 2 different thhickness tubes, but only 2 stantions were thicker- the 2 on which the jump wire were mounted.
Rest of the railing stantions were the same diameter as the rest of the wintergarten.

[dougie47]

Hi Siara,

You are right about the stanchion on which the jumping wire was mounted being thicker than the rest. But remember the top horizontal bar - it was thicker too.

The top horizontal bar was also thicker on Turm IIs and Turm IVs.

Cheers,

Dougie

[Siara]

Thats correct Dougie.
I made mistake on my wintergarten, and made 3 thicker wires- the third one on the back of the wintergarten (where the flag pole was mounted)
When i discovered the mistake it was too late, and to be honest i wasnt gonna go through the soldering process again.

Somehow i dont think the drilling tactic will produce good enough results.
If not soldering (which by a mile is best option, and most pleasing to the eye) i would use kit railings, and thin them down slightly Pat.

[dougie47]

Hi Siara,

Soldering works fine, albeit it takes a bit of patience to become proficient at it. If done correctly it produces strong joins. And no worries on the third stanchion at the back of the wintergarten - I can't recall ever noticing this on your model.

Just out of interest, Siara, in the past few weeks I've seem really good models on websites and magazines from Polish modellers. Is modelling very popular in Poland? In the UK, as you probably know, there are a fair number of modellers. But Poland seems to be producing more than its fair share of talented modellers?

Cheers,

Dougie

[Siara]

That seems to be the case Dougie.
I havent been back home for a while now, but you right, theres a lot of good polish modellers abot lately, and some of them are well known, and respected in the circuit.
People have better access to best products, and are quickly learning how to put them to good use.