AMP - Accurate Model Parts
SEA => SUBS: Uboats => TYPE VII => Topic started by: FoxbaT on 15 Sep , 2010, 11:43
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Hi,
i am new on the forum, my name is Karel Ton, age 37, and i live in The Netherlands.
I am building the U-995, i visited this boat last year in Laboe and it was very impressive.
This visit inspired me to build the U-995.
I will post pics of the progress until the point where i am now, if there are any comments or tips please let me now.
Me in front of the U-995....
(http://i47.tinypic.com/2v9zmu8.jpg)
I am going to build the boat with these accesoires:
-Eduard 53015 PE kit
-Nautilus wooden deck
-WEM Flood, Drain and Vent holes PE kit
-Griffon armament kit
-Modelbrass Type VII PE kit
-Archer transfers type VII kit
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This is how far i am now, i will keep posting more pics during the build....
Karel
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Hi Karel,
welcome! Wooow...looks really good already! I especially like the surface of your outside pressure hull! Really nice effect :o
Cheers,
Jan
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Hi Karel
Welcome aboard! Your U-995 look wonderful some far. Will you be building U-995 as now at Laboe or at the end of WW2?
Simon
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Thanks Jan and Simon ;)
I will build the U-995 in war condition.
As can be seen on one of my latest builds (1/9 scale Harley davidson WLA, see pics), i really like rust...
(http://i56.tinypic.com/md09pd.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2myok90.jpg)
Therefore the U Boot will be weathered, i am really looking forward to that stage of the build.
Karel
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The Harley Davidson looks fantastic!!
Not sure if you know, but there are major changes to the hull etc
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If its not too much trouble, i would be very happy with a list of changes ;)
Karel
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Great job Karel! And very graphic images!
Timo
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Really an outstanding job and some great pictures. Good job.
Fernando.
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HI Karel
Magnificent job that you made!!My arms is fall on the ground :o :o
bravo !
Nicolas
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hi Karel,
Welcome to AMP my friend,glad to have you here.
Like others says,good job,keep us updated.
my best regards,
Ron.
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Good job on the boat, but the bike is out of this planet!
I love it!
That reminds me i have BMW with the sidecar in the same scale waiting for its turn- i have one wheel completed with set of metal spokes so far. ;D
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Thanks everbody for the compliments, always a good motivation ;)
Siara; good to hear that there are more motorcycle builders on the forum, i also know what a difficult job it is to spoke a wheel....
Karel
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Beautiful work Karel. And great photography too. I wish I had the camera to be able to take such closeup pictures of my build.
Like the others, I especially like the way you did the pressure hull in your U-boat. It looks very realistic as to the roughness expected of such thick underwater parts as compared to the oil-canning of the thinner casing built around it.
A couple of questions though.
I see that you split the deck right down the middle. What was the reason for this?
It doesn't apply to mine since I discarded almost the whole deck except for the bow and stern steel casing parts and replaced it with framing and wood planks, but I don't see how splitting it down the middle helps.
The other question is why did you cut away the casing above the saddle tanks? You could have added the saddle tank surface inside the casing (nice job there too by the way) and the ribs without removing that casing part as far as I can see. Not that it harms it, but I would have thought it would be easier to have kept it in place.
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Hi Pat,
I cut away the casing above the saddle tanks for a practical reason: it was much easyer to open up the long sleeve beneath the casing, and it was easyer to glue, fill and sand the saddletank extensions without the casing being in the way.
Another reason is that i was able to thin the casing itself to scale thickness with a dremel, if the casing would be in its place it would be more difficult to do that.
To maintain the proper shape/curve of the casing above the saddle tanks while adding the ribs i taped the plastic deck halfs to the casing as a help.
The only part of the deck i still need for the build is the section with the schnorkel, wich i must cut out and fit under the wooden deck.
The whole plastic deck will be replaced by the Nautilus deck.
Karel
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Here are a few changes to the external parts of U-995
Whole new external bow from Frame +99.
Balcon Ger
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Simon, thank you very much!
Karel
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I am busy fitting the plastic Revell schnorkel housing underneath the wooden deck, so i am trying to find pictures of the housing.
On a picture of the U-995 i saw that the housing is open on the hull side.(see pic)
Is this accurate?, i understand the U-995 deck is new, so i am not sure if i can take this picture as a reference?
(http://i54.tinypic.com/i27cz9.jpg)
Thanks,
Karel
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Beautiful detail work - and excellent PE installation. Love it! The oil caning and surfacing are very nice touches.
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Karel,
First I would like to let you know you have an excellent build going on! ;D
My knowledge of the schnorkel is most limited at the moment. However I have a couple of pictures that may or may not be of help.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FaFEYk1xjY8/TJVXBRORUlI/AAAAAAAAAR4/DZGz4PfO5YM/s640/u1812li1.jpg)
Not sure if these next two are the unit in question. They are on the opposite side, unless they had mounted the schnorkel on either side, or I could be WAY OFF BASE... :P
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FaFEYk1xjY8/TJVWc2zXQ-I/AAAAAAAAARs/lLGRtbFdFc0/s512/u190bqw6.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FaFEYk1xjY8/TJVYnKbgDJI/AAAAAAAAAR8/IVtQMDBFOEU/s512/534l.jpg)
Enjoying the build, keep the pictures coming!
Cheers!
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If you see a U-boat with a schnorkel on the Starboard side, it is almost certain at Type IX. I believe all Type IX
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Hello foxbat
To have "to study" the subject !does not exist much as views or we can be certain is 100 % of the layout of the schnorkel housing !You can only interpret small pieces of photos!
As for example,On this photo have " see good " that it is rather empty
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk167/lebosco/WH2-2Epi-a020a.jpg)
The photo comes from a site of report of air attacks,which is a good "source",As well as the sites of dive on the site of the op
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Many thanks Nicolas!
Karel
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Allright, i`ve been busy today...
I cut out the plastic schnorkel `bay` from the original Revell deck, and fitted it underneath the wooden deck.
Of course nothing fits the first time, so i had to saw, sand, file and testfit a lot before it was ok.
First thing to do was resize the ribs, because they were to large on this area.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2ijrmz5.jpg)
Here`s a pic of the `bay` on its place underneath the deck
(http://i56.tinypic.com/29sd1c.jpg)
And the result of an afternoon work...
(http://i55.tinypic.com/358ubs1.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2ll1qaf.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2myoj7m.jpg)
Next step is to make the support poles underneath the deck
(http://i56.tinypic.com/34y33bk.jpg)
Karel
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Deck supports are fixed
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Karel
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Beautiful job Karel
On the other hand, I does not understand, you kept the schnorkel `bay`of revell?
Nicolas
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With the bay i mean this whole plastic part, the space where the schnorkel is placed in ;)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/29sd1c.jpg)
Karel
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From pieces of sprue (from the kit itself) i made an exhaust system.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/30symg7.jpg)
A dryfit
(http://i56.tinypic.com/rjl9y1.jpg)
Karel
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looks great, it works!
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Nice pipework!
How much of it will be visible when decked?
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Thanks ;)
Not much will be visible, only the area behind the floodholes, that is the reason why i don`t make an upper pressure hull because it can`t be seen.
Karel
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Karel, what do you have as guidelines for how wide the ribs are under the casing? I've seen some differences in some of the models here and since I'm hoping the interior between the pressure hull and the casing is going to be quite visible on mine (I'm making most of the hatches opening), then I'd like to get them right.
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Pat,
Rib -16 to -15 = 625mm
Rib -15 to -8 = 500mm
Rib -8 to -7 = 325mm
Rib -7 to +105 = 500mm
Rib +105 to +106 = 625mm
Rib +106 to +116 = 500mm
Simon
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Ah, thanks for that information on the rib sizes. That will help a lot! :-)
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Hi Pat,
i see your question is already answered ;)
Karel
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I painted and weathered the exhaust piping
(http://i56.tinypic.com/24v0aip.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2whmezo.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/105s978.jpg)
Karel
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Very attractive work Karel!
regards
Nicolas
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Nice rusting effect- hairspray technique?
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Thanks, no its not the hairspray method, but a technique i discovered by coincidence.
First i cover the entirely exhaust in a thick layer of water thinned rust colored pigment and let it dry.
Then i make a mixture of burnt umber oil paint with white spirit (about 20% oil paint and 80% white spirit), and carefully apply it with a small pointed brush.
The pigment will absorb the mixture and the result is an uneven `rust` surface.
Because this mixture is very easy damaged just by touching it, i let it dry for a night and cover everything with a thin layer of Matt clear enamel.
Its a very simple but effective way too simulate rust.
Karel
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I made the conningtower section that will be seen through the floodholes, maybe the shape is not 100% correct, but that is impossible too see through the floodholes.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2iibgxc.jpg)
Karel
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Hello Karel,
very good work, watching your boat allready since a time at the dutch modeler site.
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looking excellent, and yes, you just need a general shape to see through the holes - it's quite dark in there!
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Hello FoxbaT
Very clean build and big dexterity ! Keep on the great work ! =)
Cheers,
L.
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Thanks guys ;)
I finished the air bottles that will be mounted underneath the deck.
I took 8mm aluminium tube and to get the round ends of an air bottle i glued 4mm thick pieces of plastic on the tube ends.
I gave them the right radius by sanding them with the help of a drilling machine.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2uzfl9e.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/xbbvx4.jpg)
I made straps from thin plastic and painted and weathered the bottles.
The salt seawater has left a couple of traces on the bottles.... :D
(http://i56.tinypic.com/a2gmyv.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/osr9ja.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2iswoao.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/33kzodx.jpg)
Karel
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Beautiful weathering on the airbottles FoxbaT. That rust looks real. Not too much, not too little.
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Wow...really impressive!
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Impressive of realism! karel :o whaouu!
"bravo l'artiste"
cheers
Nicolas !
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Karel, what do you have as guidelines for how wide the ribs are under the casing? I've seen some differences in some of the models here and since I'm hoping the interior between the pressure hull and the casing is going to be quite visible on mine (I'm making most of the hatches opening), then I'd like to get them right.
Hi Pat
Here a link to my new 'Working drawing' with the ribbing and framing layout.
http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=124.msg6518#new (http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=124.msg6518#new)
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Many thanks everybody :)
The lifeboat canisters are finished
(http://i51.tinypic.com/rszf9v.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2dslp9l.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2ypchs5.jpg)
I`ve made the canisters from plastic rod (10mm diameter)
Karel
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The rust effect looks very nice, have to try your technic ;D
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FoxbaT.... really impressive! :o
Nice and perfectionist work, congratulations!!!!!!
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Excellent painting skills.
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reeeally nice canisters
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I have a small question, on the PE diesel exhausts are a couple of louvres/slots.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/63rj82.jpg)
The PE instruction sheet tells me to bent the louvres, but there is no picture.
I don`t know if i should bent the louvres inside or outside.
Does someone has a picture of this type exhaust?
Thanks...
Karel
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From Dougie & Wink The Wolf Pack: A Collection Of U-Boat Modelling Articles
Free-Flooding Vent Patterns Page 56
In 1942 another exhaust outlet (style 5) was introduced. This style had two horizontal bars positioned at an angle that directed the exhaust gases downwards. Style 5 featured on U 226 when it was launched on the 18th June 1942. It is likely that by the autumn of 1942 all new U-boats launched had style 5. Subsequent U-boats, including U 241, U 995, U 1003 and U 1305 sported this last style of outlet.
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Hi Karel
For the diesel exhausts i have that
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk167/lebosco/img096.jpg)
It is the 1003,The photo arises from the book"Vom Original Zum Modell/ Uboottyp VIIC
from Bernard and Gaefe Verlarg ,A good source of documentation!!
Sorry, I have nothing else!
regards
Nicolas
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Many thanks! this picture is of great help ;)
Karel
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Buy the AMP Flood Vent set from White Ensign Models - it's in there!
(http://amp.rokket.biz/images/site/ubrass_photo.jpg)
http://whiteensignmodels.com/ (http://whiteensignmodels.com/)
BUY NOW
To order The Flood & Vent set, go to WEM and search for #PE 7232. (Due to their catalogue system, no direct link is possible.)
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Thanks Rokket, but i bought that kit already, problem is that even these PE exhaust are not completely accurate....
With the help of the picture from Nicolas i corrected the PE exhausts, it was a tricky job but i am very pleased with the result.
First of all i drilled 0.4mm holes at the sides of the sleeves so i was able to bent the louvres
(http://i53.tinypic.com/34rgnpu.jpg)
After this i could bent the louvres at the right angle with the help of two scalpels
(http://i55.tinypic.com/nesv92.jpg)
Next step was to close the holes at the sides of the sleeves with glue, and sand everything smooth with a piece of sanding paper
(http://i56.tinypic.com/14ufkad.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/1z6xkt4.jpg)
The vertical struts were made of thin steel wire
(http://i54.tinypic.com/mjlu8y.jpg)
Last step was to remove glue residue and prime the parts
(http://i55.tinypic.com/qpkr9k.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/epr4pl.jpg)
Karel
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O and i would like to thank everybody for the info/pictures so far, this forum is a real good help for me ;)
Karel
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Karel!
great job ! and Good modification!!!!
cheers
nicolas
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I decided to make the wooden plugs in the deck that covered the bolts.
First of all i bought a box of wooden pins :D
(http://i51.tinypic.com/28qz0xf.jpg)
Then i drilled holes and superglued the pins on the deck
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2dr78gk.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/rh0rb9.jpg)
With a scalpel i cut of the pins
(http://i56.tinypic.com/1fv2bq.jpg)
And after sanding this is the result
(http://i51.tinypic.com/35l9jxl.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/345ohae.jpg)
Maybe they are a bit oversized, but for me its ok ;) I think they will be slightly visible after painting the deck, we wil see...
Karel
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:o very nice :o
I`don
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VERY nice job FoxbaT. A lot of work but an excellent result.
Even if a bit oversized, once the deck is stained I think they will appear just the right size.
However, I think you should add a few more.
If you take a look at the photo that (Seewolf?) has on another thread (sorry, I don't remember which thread but within the last week, there was a photo with an inflatable raft on the deck of a U-boat with a water deflector at the front of the schnorkel slot), you can see that the planks have a few more attachement points.
You will find a fastener at the end of each of every plank where it ends at the edge of a hatch or where the bollards are set into the deck.
Take a look at your last photo, where the deck ends on either side of the stern running light fixture. There should be 4 more screw/plugs, 2 at each end of the running light. There should also be 8 at the hatch, 4 at each end of the hatch. 6 at the next, wider hatch (all at one end as there is another hatch right in front of it) and 4 at each bollard (2 each end).
Makes sense?
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Thanks guys, indeed i need to make a few more, i have to study where they should come.
In the meantime i did the front part of the deck
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2l8ceic.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/9pnk0y.jpg)
Karel
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FoxbaT, again, looking good.
Don't forget that the bases for the bollards is metal, not wood, as is the base for the inflatables.
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Yep i know, thanks ;)
Karel
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I am stuck with another question.
The drip channels on the front and rear of the saddletanks on the U-995, are they historical correct or are they mounted later?
It`s difficult to found info on this subject, some boats do have them, and others don`t..
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2h4035y.jpg)
Karel
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After studying pictures from the U-995 i found the locations of the inspection holes, i could be 1 mm off but for me its good enough.
The exact locations of the hatches
(http://i54.tinypic.com/261bw5e.jpg)
And the hatches glued on the tanks after bending them in the right radius/curve
(http://i51.tinypic.com/5lrjb5.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2i92n9x.jpg)
Karel
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Karel, you might not want to put in ALL of the screw/plugs in the deck. It might look too busy if you did that, especially with them being a bit oversized.
The way that you have it now, with only a few rows of screw/plugs gives the proper impression.
The reason I say that is that in real life, there would be a screw/plug each time a plank crosses a beam or support under the deck. Those beams are spaced about every 5 mm, (don't have my micrometer with me right now so the measurement is just an example) the same as the ribs.
Every time a plank ends (butt joints or when it's interrupted by a hatch or other deck fitting) there would be two screw/plugs, side by side. Butt joints were always staggered. There were never two together with adjacent planks.
Planks were usually a maximum of 6 meters in length - or shorter if there was a hatch or other fitting in the way.
So if you put in every screw/plug, you will probably have a little more than 4 times the number of plugs you've already done and it might start looking too cluttered with the oversized pins.
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You are right Pat, i forgot 4 plugs in the afterdeck, and after that its ok with me ;)
Karel
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I am stuck with another question.
The drip channels on the front and rear of the saddletanks on the U-995, are they historical correct or are they mounted later?
It`s difficult to found info on this subject, some boats do have them, and others don`t..
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2h4035y.jpg)
Karel
The drip channels and holes were added later to U-995 (at least after 13 Mar 1972). I believe no u-boat had drip channels and the holes.
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The trouble with U 995 is that she was hacked up post war, and then hacked up worse by the "museum"... BUT, I have a period pic that shows "drip channels" or at least something damn close:
(http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/drainlip.jpg)
The U 995 pic also shows great frame detail!
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Rokket, that is the same picture i saw, therefore i am still not sure wat to do....
Karel
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Well, Life is usually gray and complicated...I would guess that there was some kind of "drip" channel in WWII, and that U 995 Modern added some kind of inaccurate "thing" in 1972...
From the photo, that is NOT a weld seam...so it's ...something
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I`ve been busy today :)
Glued the Eduard vents on the lower hull
(http://i55.tinypic.com/wgsu8m.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/166lsox.jpg)
The pods are mounted
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2rygfew.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/332zc4h.jpg)
And i corrected the faulty strips on the forward hull
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2qxvus6.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/53ny10.jpg)
I also scratched the thin `lip` at the underside of the anchor cove
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2isgxhf.jpg)
The nails that were sanded away are replaced
(http://i52.tinypic.com/29vbi91.jpg)
Karel
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nice job karel !I am going to be ashamed to show my work now! ;) :D
best regards
Nicolas
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Nice work Karel. You're doing a great job.
Like so often happens when I come to this site, I find another detail to add to my build.
Does anybody know what those "drip channels" are? For certain there's nothing to drip there since it's a part of the boat that's always under water.
And what's the purpose for the lip underneath the anchor well?
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Karel nice work... but I think the 3 water inlets, for the center dive tanks (don`t know how to name it in english), looked different. At least for the VIIc not 100% sure about the VIIc/41.
For the Satteltank the water inlet is correct from Eduard.
@Pat
regarding the "drip channels" ... I will go the way Jan did it with his U-711. But what is realy realy correct....I think that is one of the questions we will not find out so quick.
The purpose for the lip underneath the anchor well.... protecting of the material when the anchor is hoist up the last meter. The last meter stresses the material at the ege a lot before the anchor is in position, easyer to change the lip if necessery than to repair plates and frames.
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Karel, what a nice work!!! :o
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Thanks everybody ;)
@Seewolf, its so difficult to find detailed pics from the water inlets, for now i leave it as it is.
If i find more detailed pics i could try to correct them if needed.
In the meantime i added a missing strip that runs over the front lower flooding holes
(http://i54.tinypic.com/dyq5hj.jpg)
Karel
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Thanks for the info on the lip under the anchor well Seewolf. That makes sense, as they do a similar thing on many wooden tallships with a peice of sacrificial wood that can be easily replaced when damaged.
As for the 'drip channels', which can't possibly be for drips because of their location, I wonder if it might be a similar strengthening for the edge of the casing where it meets the PH. They might not wanted to have the casing firmly attached to the PH because flexing during heavy weather and depth charging would just rip the relatively thin metal of the casing off at the edge anyway, so they curled the edge up a bit to strengthen it and left a small gap so it wouldn't make noise rubbing against the PH.
The 'drip' holes in this rolled edge would be to let water flow through freely to reduce the chance of rusting inside the rolled edge, and maybe to stop the buildup of air bubbles that could come out all of a sudden and give away a position.
No proof of that. Just a guess since I can't think of what else that edge could be for.
Anybody got any other ideas?
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Pat, Good thought on strenghtening that area with the "drip channel". The square holes above it ,though, I believe are only to allow moisture to weap out from the caseing on this display. You won't find them on U-boats that were in use. Another item found in other pics. on this boat are screens
over many of the ports. These are certainly just to keep birds and other "little creatures" from living
insde.
Cheers/Regards Bill
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Just glued the PE eduard deck parts on
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2qn03ue.jpg)
I made some piping underneath the square hole in the aft deck
(http://i51.tinypic.com/1gpdz.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2m3pitg.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/24qn8kz.jpg)
Karel
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Excellent! Following with anticipation! 8)
Cheers!
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I made some piping underneath the square hole in the aft deck
(http://i51.tinypic.com/1gpdz.jpg)
Hi Karel
If it not to late and you have not glued the sten section on. It was a vent under this gril. Check this out out at uboat.net http://www.uboat.net/forums/read.php?14,79256,82695#msg-82695 (http://www.uboat.net/forums/read.php?14,79256,82695#msg-82695)
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Karel, what ARE those two pipes going underneath the swuare hole on the stern deck? And why is there a hole there instead of a hatch? It would be good to know to get more of an idea what to put underneath the deck at that point.
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Gentleman my mistake, it will be fixed....
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Karel, what ARE those two pipes going underneath the swuare hole on the stern deck? And why is there a hole there instead of a hatch? It would be good to know to get more of an idea what to put underneath the deck at that point.
Pat, it is the the inlet vent for drive tank 1.
(http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/4417/sternvl5.th.jpg) (http://img264.imageshack.us/i/sternvl5.jpg/)
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Simon, I knew that the opening was for the inlet valve (I think that'd been discussed before), but what are the two pipes? They don't seem to be part of a valve. (Any info on what the valve itself looks like?)
And that doesn't explain why it's a hole and not a hatch as everywhere else. Most inlet valves would make more sense below the waterline (unless of course they're bringing in air) and no need to have an inspection port. It would be controlled from inside.
It also seems strange that it's only on one side.
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Hi Pat
I think Karel just added those pipes to add detail to that section of boat. I have yet to see any pipe in that area.
There is a cross section of the valve in the
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Hi Karel, your hull work and scratchbuilding are first class to say the least. I like your rust application technique; it looks very realistic. Your scratchbuilding skills are top notch also. I am very impressed with your skill. This will be a sweet model when she is finished.
Cheers,
Ernest
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Hi Karel, your hull work and scratchbuilding are first class to say the least. I like your rust application technique; it looks very realistic. Your scratchbuilding skills are top notch also. I am very impressed with your skill. This will be a sweet model when she is finished.
Cheers,
Ernest
Thanks Ernest ;)
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I didn`t had much time lately to work on the 995, the only thing i did was to weather the pressure hull.
Offcourse there is no need to do this so accurate because it almost can`t be seen later, but this was a good opportunity to practice my `rust` techniques.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/3313t52.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/o79g12.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/e19pb7.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/23mvi9f.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/23ky99g.jpg)
Karel
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:o :o :o very realistic, i like it a lot !!! Sad to hide this great work under a deck... ;)
cheers,
Laurent.
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The rust looks great!
I think I would be scared to go to sea in that boat ;D ;D
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That rust is VERY realistic looking. Great work!!
Like Pepper-mint, I think it's a shame to hid it under a deck so it can't be seen.
So why not do what I'm doing and make the larger deck hatches opening so you can see inside and see this detail you've been creating? I've posted my hinge technique in a couple of places now, it's really not that hard to do and it will allow access to the 'tween area of spare torpedoes and exhaust trunking that you're doing so well at.
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Looks great! :) Remember there is always a possibility to make the deck a little more damaged like from the depth charges so there could be more pressure hull seen... A close almost an hit could tear the deck planking nicely away... ;)
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reeeally nice peeling and rust, love it!!! DEFINITELY open up a bit, some hatches, etc. as pat suggests, you can't hide al of this...
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The rust is awesome! What technique did you use to simulate it FoxbaT?
Ernest
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yes, DO tell!
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Yes please, and the peeling technique ! ;D
I'll wash your dishes for 3 weeks...
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Haha thanks guys, i will try to give a short explanation.
First of all i paint the base with a matt finish, the color is not so important; i used grey.
In the next step i mix rust pigments with water until it it has the thickness of... yoghurt... ;D
I completely cover the base with a thick layer of this mixture, because the base is painted with a matt finish the pigments will hold better on the `rough` surface.
After drying, the pigments are very vulnerable, and because of that i make a mixture of burnt sienna oil paint and white spirit (about 20/80%), and carefully apply this mixture on the pigment surface with a pointed brush.
Because of this, you will get nice dark and light rust color differences in the pigment, and after a day of drying the pigments are now much stronger for the next step.
Then i take the final color (again grey enamel in my case) and completely cover the area with a fine brush, i don`t brush the paint on but i `tap` it on to avoid damaging the pigments.
After 10 minutes when the paint is just dry i begin to peel the paint with a scalpel.
Because the enamel paint doesn`t stick very well on the pigments, this is very easy to do and because the grey enamel paint is still fresh it will start to peel and come up.
If you wait to long with this the paint is to hard and it doesn`t peel, so timing is important.
In fact this is the base method i discovered, it is not easy but after some practise the results can be very good.
p.s Pepper Mint, when will you come to my house to wash my dishes?, my kitchen is overloaded...... ::) ;D
Karel
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Very slick technique for rust FoxbaT. May I ask where you learned it from? Also, is the base coat of paint acrylic or enamel?
Thanks for the information!
Ernest
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Thanks Ernest, i learned this technique from myself, i like to try different things to accomplish my goals, some things work and others don`t.
I discovered this technique by coincidence, and now i am trying to perfect it.
The base coat is also Enamel, i never use acrylics.
Karel
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Powerful sense of observation FoxbaT !
Your technique sounds logic to me. Paint a rusted sheet of metal and you'll get the same result. The difference : you get the result after peeling the hardened composite paint over the fragile rust pigments ; i use this technique for some furniture or wall decoration. I never thought to use this tech. in modeling.
Great !
I ow you 3 weeks dishwashing, in France we call those weeks "les semaines des 4 jeudi"... ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for the explanations.
Cheers,
Pepper. ;)
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I started work on the periscope and conning tower
The periscope sanded and ready for paint
(http://i53.tinypic.com/27zxh6x.jpg)
The basic parts for the conning tower including the Nautilus wooden deck part
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2uemnpy.jpg)
Dryfit...
(http://i54.tinypic.com/25ur8zt.jpg)
And a quick look how it fits on the deck
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2w4mbn7.jpg)
Karel
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Hi Karel
Work very clean and realized with talent .
Well done !
Nicolas
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Hi Karel
It
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Thanks Simon for your info.
Indeed its too late now to change this, off course i would like to have the boat as accurate as possible but this is something i can live with ;)
Karel
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The flooding holes in the kit are not correct, so i filled the holes with Zap superglue, and sanded them smooth.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/345d2df.jpg)
The accurate distance between the holes should be 7 mm.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/be8n4w.jpg)
After drilling 1mm holes i used a needle file to make the holes oval-shaped.
I also thinned the plastic behind the holes to scale thickness.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2ng5ycj.jpg)
Karel
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Karel, that look good! On a side note, over the weekend I was looking at pictures of U-995 and I notice there were a lot of photographs of U-995 without a Schorchel, it may mean that she did not get one till very late in the war :-\
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Simon, here you go.
http://hnsa.org/conf2004/papers/berryman.htm
"(Oblt zur see Hans Georg) Hess was loosed in extreme northern waters with particular emphasis on the Murmansk Run. Between reporting aboard on October 8, 1944 and February 14, 1945 when he took U-995 to the yards at Trondheim, Norway, to be retrofitted with a snorkel, he fired 35 torpedoes."
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Some research indicates that U-995 never went on a combat patrol with the schnorkel.
http://www.deutscher-marinebund.de/u995_geschichte_english.htm
"At the time of the German capitulation on May, 8th, 1945, U995 was moored at Trondheim, Norway, to be equipped with a snorkel."
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Some research indicates that U-995 never went on a combat patrol with the schnorkel.
http://www.deutscher-marinebund.de/u995_geschichte_english.htm
"At the time of the German capitulation on May, 8th, 1945, U995 was moored at Trondheim, Norway, to be equipped with a snorkel."
Pat, this is great research!!! Really fantastic :) :) :) :) This could examine a lot! Like in the other topic Schnorchel Placement http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=121.msg1411#msg1411 (http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=121.msg1411#msg1411) Maybe when they add a Schnorchel to a Type VIIC they have to widen the deck to get the piping in, because the Schnorchel was added after the war (in the 70
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Hi Pat.
After more research on the Schnorchel and U-995 (This whole Schnorchel system is a nightmare >:( - photographs don
-
Thanks guys for the info! ;)
Karel
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I am getting a bit bored by correcting al the faulty floodholes ::)
The other floodholes on the conningtower are done...
A pic of the U995 conningtower
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2ev3xqw.jpg)
Here are some pics of the kitparts with the faulty holes filled with superglue
(http://i53.tinypic.com/sywksj.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/f59kp4.jpg)
And the new floodholes...
(http://i55.tinypic.com/23t10gm.jpg)
Not very exciting news, but now the fun jobs will come ;)
Karel
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Karel,
Great work with the "speed bump" (corrections) so to speak.
Enjoying your build. Looking forward to more...
Cheers!
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Nice job correcting the flooding vents Karel. I missed that the vents were incorrect on my U228 build :'(, good eye and research on your part.
Ernest
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Nice job correcting the flooding vents Karel. I missed that the vents were incorrect on my U228 build :'(, good eye and research on your part.
Ernest
Thanks Ernest ;)
In have done some PE work on the conningtower.
I glued the Eduard PE wood panels on the Revell parts.
Because the panels would be too thick with the PE panels glued on them, i thinned the panels on a piece of sandpaper
(http://i52.tinypic.com/jaky88.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/spvkec.jpg)
I also opened up these two parts, and glued the Eduard parts on top of them.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/dzuj5c.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2vnffvr.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/36621.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/25kog9c.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2r58f8p.jpg)
Work on the conningtower continues....
Karel
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Looking very good Karel.
Ernest
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While working on the conning tower, i also made a start with painting the wooden deck.
First layer of `Wenge` brown
(http://i51.tinypic.com/210y8nb.jpg)
After this i made a mixture of the same Wenge brown with black to simulate a carboleum colour.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2vvtgep.jpg)
After the second layer with this mixture and sanding it to simulate wear and tear on the deck, this is the result so far.
Offcourse this is only the base, the deck will be further weathered.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2m5zbcj.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2dw9bpk.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/1zdour.jpg)
Karel
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Karel, looks great!!
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Very good work K. !!! Your deck color is fitting with the description in Dougie and Wink's "The Wolf Pack" .
This is how a deck could look after some "outdoor" weeks. I like it a lot.
For sure you have weathering projects on the wooden deck... =)
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Looks real good Karel. I especially like how the wintergarten deck is worn more in the middle and less around the edges and ammunition canisters where the sailors wouldn't walk.
One question though. I see that the plates surrounding the docking bollards are wood. I'm not certain, but it would seem much more normal for those to be metal, much like the plate for the inflatable life rafts that you've inset into the deck.. Wood just wouldn't be strong enough to hold the bollards if the boat was rocking heavily in a storm while tied up to its supply ship in a fjord.
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Thanks guys :)
Pat; all the metal panels/hatches and other metal parts on the deck are in the Eduard PE-kit, and will be mounted later on the wooden deck... ;)
Karel
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Because wood turns light-grey at some spots because of the salt water and sunlight i gave the deck a very light wash of Tamiya Acryl Light grey.
On the pic i have done the rear deck with this wash, it can barely be seen but that is just the way i want it.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/65z5es.jpg)
Further weathering on the deck will be done later.
I spent last evening with mounting all the Eduard PE hatches and hinges on the deck.
The hinges are 1 by 1 mm...., and i had to glue about 20 of them on the deck.
To give an idea from the size of the hinges:
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2ia7uro.jpg)
Next update will follow soon....
Karel
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Really great weathering on your deck! I can see the hint of gray, nicely done. Waiting for the hinge installation!!! Have mine still attached to the sheet. they are small!
Cheers!
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Karel I really like your deck, keep it up!
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The PE parts on the deck are painted and weathered.
For now i am happy, when the hull is finished and weathered i can see if i need too rework some colouring of the deck.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2exq4ae.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/11bjmtg.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/x2ql92.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/magy1c.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/289vgv9.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/ns39c.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/29f7d6g.jpg)
Nice detail pic from a PE part; the nuts on the ring are 1mm in diameter.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2hwmr8z.jpg)
Karel
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Terrific! What's next?
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Hmm ik think i continue work on the conning tower, i really like to paint and to weather but that has to wait for a while now...
Karel
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WOWZA! Awesome weathering and wood, very impressive! Keep the photos coming!
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ohh, tell us your secrets! what methods to achieve such excellent results...?
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Hi Karel
incredible work! wel done!I'm having a hard time showing my work now :D
regards
Nicolas
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Thanks Rokket and Nicolas,
Rokket; It`s difficult to tell exactly the points what i am doing until i reach this result on the wooden deck.
I just start painting the deck with a couple of layers with thin paint of various shades of brown/black/grey,
sanding the deck between each layer of paint.
On the area`s where the wood wears more, i almost completely remove the paint with fine sandpaper.
By the way; this was the first time i used water-based paints, and it worked out great for me.
The hull will be painted with enamels, but some parts of the weathering will be done with acrylics (i am going to try the hairspray chipping technique for the first time).
Karel
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So instead of stains, you use paint, sand it back a bit, different paint, sand again...? very impressive result! Acrylics - I hate them but my wife has excellent results, so i should be more open and experiment more!
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Karel you're a Jedi !
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Done some work on the conningtower, i made the railings and steps from 0.5mm brass wire.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2hs8zgy.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2pzeebt.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2mq2mmh.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/b3tuud.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2s0y0k8.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/15qywiv.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/9hq2yc.jpg)
Karel
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Conning tower is looking great! Will remake the rest of the railings on the wintergarten?
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Yes, everything wil be made from brass ;)
Karel
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worth the effort, looking great
-
More railings were made..
(http://i51.tinypic.com/fncnxh.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/33bpfmf.jpg)
Karel
-
Very nice!
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Really excellent weathering Karel, one of the finest jobs I have seen yet.
Ernest
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Hi,
Can't wait to see the "wintergartens"... precise work karel.
Stay on target !
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Right.... the upper wintergarden is finished.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/jkdt1u.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2vvjqc9.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/3539smf.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2w2g0om.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2l9ktns.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/x3b8eb.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/246kqb9.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/1494h8w.jpg)
Karel
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Beautiful work on the wintergarten Karel. Nice use of the brush! ;D
Ernest
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Haha, it`s a multifunctional brush...
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Wow that's great!
-
Beautiful work Karel.
I especially like the closeup shot taken from just in front of the CT. It almost looks like you're standing there on the real one.
How did you do the bottom edge of the mesh on the lower part of the railings?
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Beautiful work Karel.
I especially like the closeup shot taken from just in front of the CT. It almost looks like you're standing there on the real one.
How did you do the bottom edge of the mesh on the lower part of the railings?
The bottom part is`nt glued on the railings, only the upper corners of the mesh are glued, the less glue the better... :)
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I had a free Sunday, so work continued; the lower wintergarden is ready.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2qn18uw.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/5p4uw1.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2nw057s.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/4g4uu9.jpg)
Karel
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Beautiful Work Karel!!!!
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Karel, I know the bottom part of the mesh isn't glued to the railings. On the real boats, I think it had a strand of wire woven through the bottom links to hold it down. It's what you did to represent that wire (or whatever it was) that I'm asking about.
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Ok, now i understand ;) That part is one piece with the rest of the mesh as it comes in the Eduard PE kit.
Karel
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The other mesh parts are mounted..
(http://i54.tinypic.com/rj1s3b.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/24c6t0p.jpg)
Karel
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Karel, very clean and fine work !
Are you going to build the AA security railings ?
I'm staying tuned... ;D
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Thanks Pepper,
I don`t know if the security railings were present on the 995, its difficult to find info on this subject.
Does someone knows more about this?
Karel
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On 16 September 1943 it commission date, it did not have one.
I have a brief look at this and you may be right. I could not find any pictures with the security railings with a date. When I get time I will look into this with more detail. Dougie, may have the answer, at hand.
Nevertheless, this open up another quection. Did the late war Type VII/41 had this security railings? There would be no need for them on the very late war u-boat. I will also check this out.
Good spotting, Karel!
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Thanks in advance Simon ;)
Karel
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Nevertheless, this open up another quection. Did the late war Type VII/41 had this security railings? There would be no need for them on the very late war u-boat. I will also check this out.
The answer to this question is YES. I fought several pictures of U-1304 and U-1305 with the security railings. U-1304 and U-1305 (including U-1308) were all of the same batch and are very late Type VIIC/41.
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Hello guys,
Very nice work on those railings, Karel!
U 993 and U 994 were both launched with Turm II towers. I would think U 995 would also have been launched with a Turm II. At some point in 1943 a Turm IV (without security railings) would have been fitted to U 995.
By the end of the war, most (and I'm thinking probably all) VIICs and VIIC/41s had the security railings. There would be one set of security railings behind the top platform, and another set of security railings behind the rear platform. The book "Vom original zum Modell: VIIC" shows a few sets of railings and Turms. I think the implementation of the security railings would be around April or May 1944 or so.
One thing to consider when studying Turm IIs and Turm IVs is the height of the top (forward) platform. The top platform on the Turm IV was much higher than the top platform on the Turm IIs. You can use this height difference to differentiate between a Turm II and Turm IV.
Cheers,
Dougie
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Many thanks guys for the info.
For now i leave it as it is, if i find evidence that the 995 had the railings in 44/45, i will add them later.
Karel
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The steel plate in front of the CT is done, the trussets and the plate from the Revell part were too thick, i thinned the trussets with a small file and scalpel, the steel plate was thinned later while it was glued on the CT.
The revell part.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/9fp1zp.jpg)
Here the trussets are thinned (only the visible part)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/256rdpj.jpg)
I also discovered that the steel plate was riveted on the trussets, fortunately i had some rivets left in my Archer rivet kit.
Another thing i added were the PE triangular brackets for the antenna wire.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/1zzs7iv.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2z5u2jb.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/5of60x.jpg)
Karel
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beautiful work!
I admit I'm stupid, but I still don't understand how that archer stuff works ???:
is it like water decals? cutting pretty close to the rivets and then slide it onto the modell, hoping the carrier film disappears after painting. or like a dry transfer: just rubbing the rivets onto the model?
sincerely
ralf
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Thanks Ralf,
indeed they are water transfers, the carrier film is very thin so i hope it wil disappear after painting, otherwise i have to give the carrier film a slight carefull sanding.
Karel
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Nevertheless, this open up another quection. Did the late war Type VII/41 had this security railings? There would be no need for them on the very late war u-boat. I will also check this out.
The answer to this question is YES. I fought several pictures of U-1304 and U-1305 with the security railings. U-1304 and U-1305 (including U-1308) were all of the same batch and are very late Type VIIC/41.
Great news ! ;)
Karel, you know : i'm not gonna repeat myself. keep glueing. ;D
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very nice ....I did the same, and it makes a difference!
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In the Revell kit there are no `pfillenwerfers`present, so i made these today with the help of some detailed pics from the real U995.
Here the exact position is marked.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/23wqt1v.jpg)
And the openings ready, i also added rivets.
On the inside i glued two small round caps from the scratchbox to prevent light shining through the holes.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/35ariok.jpg)
Karel
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Nice. what are pillferwillies?
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Pillenwerfer was a device designed to release a specially designed canister which had a substance inside that on contact with sea water released a huge quantity of bubbles that hung in the water at about 30 m depth. this mass of bubbles gave a sonar image pretty similar to that caused by a submerged Uboat, so while the destroyer blasted the bubbles the uboat crept out of danger.
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ahhh...noisemakers! Thanks
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actually, I posted to fast - a bit more sophisticated - VERY cool
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Nice. what are pillferwillies?
:D :D :D :D :D
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I started preparations for the 37mm cannon, there are about 60 to 65 parts, the smallest PE parts are 0.5 by 0.8mm.....
I hope i will bring this to a good end.. :D
(http://i54.tinypic.com/250t2x0.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2nguff9.jpg)
Karel
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looks like nice detail
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Lots of parts there! Do you have an optivisor or somerhing like it?
Ernest
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No i don`t have an optivisor, we`ll see how it goes.... :D
Karel
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In that case your eyes are much better then mine my friend! Seriously, have fun building the 37mm, I am sure it will turn out great.
Ernest
No i don`t have an optivisor, we`ll see how it goes.... :D
Karel
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The 3,7 is not finished yet, i still need to mount the seats, visors and some other small hinges/parts.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/28jczdf.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2wqwls6.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/33mx4z5.jpg)
Karel
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Beautiful gun Karel!
Nice one-handed phtography too.
Do you have a pic from in front of the splinter shield?
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mmmmmmmmm lovley
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The 3,7 is finished.
The seats supposed to have holes in it, i made them with a 0.5mm drill.
I also `hollowed` the seats a bit by pressing a round object in them, and i added handles from streched sprue on the adjusting wheels.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2iu2bd.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2e66fsl.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/r7ndwm.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/o0e2o9.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2i8bhw.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/333966e.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/14myljk.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/fjfh2s.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2uepats.jpg)
Next job will be the even smaller 2cm`s, so i have to prepare myself mentally now.... :D
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Fantastic work Karel! :o Looking forward to watching the 2cm build!
Cheers!
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Here are the parts needed for the 2cm`s (including Revell parts), the plastic barrels will be replaced by the brass barrels.
The gun shields were not present on the U995, so these will not be mounted.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/242aj5j.jpg)
Karel
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The 37mm is a real work of art Karel. Very cleanly built!
Ernest
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Thanks Ernest,
in the meantime i finished the 2cm`s.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2u8dnrl.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/nbtais.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/wmfcqu.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2lmrits.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2145bvo.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2gxjv44.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/ztsu9v.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/dyvlva.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/28wnk8o.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/maj67k.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2v0elqa.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/6f1bnp.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/28801nn.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/352elc8.jpg)
Karel
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Amazing work Karel!
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Absolutely gorgeous Karel!
But I see an awful flaw. Sorry.
You've done such a fantastic job on the armament, and the railings, and everything else so far in those pictures, that it sort of emphasizes that the deck is just plastic. Compared to to the terrific detail on the guns, the deck just doesn't stand up to the quality of the rest of it.
Please, please, do what I did (for a different reason, but same end result) and scrap the plastic deck and build your own deck out of real wood slats. It makes a huge difference for realism and with the detail of your guns, you'll be really happy with the result to go with them.
I'm making my hatches open, but you don't need to do that to get the same appearance. But having real wood decks, with the correct spacing between each slat to let the 'water' come through when it dives, and seeing the beams underneath the deck will really set off the beautiful work that you've done so far.
If you can't get wood slats there, you can get them from Lee Valley in Canada. They have cherry wood slats, 36" long by just a few mm wide and not much thicker than paper. Real easy to make a deck out of. When you scuff off the carboleum on the worn parts, you'll see real wood grain showing through. Your model deserves it with the detail you've done so far.
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Or you can get the one made by Nautilus. Pat I
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Hello Karel,
I have been admiring your work and want to join the others in congratulating you on your fine craftsmanship and great photography. It is a real pleasure to follow your project and I look forward to each new development.
Cheers,
Bill
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Absolutely gorgeous Karel!
But I see an awful flaw. Sorry.
You've done such a fantastic job on the armament, and the railings, and everything else so far in those pictures, that it sort of emphasizes that the deck is just plastic. Compared to to the terrific detail on the guns, the deck just doesn't stand up to the quality of the rest of it.
Please, please, do what I did (for a different reason, but same end result) and scrap the plastic deck and build your own deck out of real wood slats. It makes a huge difference for realism and with the detail of your guns, you'll be really happy with the result to go with them.
I'm making my hatches open, but you don't need to do that to get the same appearance. But having real wood decks, with the correct spacing between each slat to let the 'water' come through when it dives, and seeing the beams underneath the deck will really set off the beautiful work that you've done so far.
If you can't get wood slats there, you can get them from Lee Valley in Canada. They have cherry wood slats, 36" long by just a few mm wide and not much thicker than paper. Real easy to make a deck out of. When you scuff off the carboleum on the worn parts, you'll see real wood grain showing through. Your model deserves it with the detail you've done so far.
I totally agree ; Karel your model is wonderful and Mr.Bill gave you the best words.it It would be worth rebuilding the deck ! ;)
Once painted, all your details will we highly up lightened.
all the best =)
Pepper-M
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Friends.....
I am not ready yet....
There are some nice wooden deck parts from Nautilus waiting to get glued in place ;)
I will do this after the conning tower is painted and weathered to prevent the wood getting painted grey.
Karel
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I started replacing the nails wich were sanded away.
To prevent the delicate decal film from damage during working on the model, i give them a protection by adding a thin layer of matt varnish (diluted with white spirit).
(http://i52.tinypic.com/svtcoz.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/ea3wh3.jpg)
Karel
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paint may do the trick...with all those guns, who's going to argue?
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bracco, I'd be quite happy to post pics of my U-boat but I don't have a digital camera and can't afford one. Perhaps when the lighting is good enough, I can take a few pix with my cellphone, but I know the resolution isn't all that good.
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I am ready with replacing the lost nails (thank god, didn`t like this job), i think together i placed about 1000 nails.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/25rpkt0.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/65xwzc.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/9uoi9i.jpg)
Karel
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Nice work Karel! Can't wait to see some paint applied to it!
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Nice job replacing the rivets Karel. It does indeed look like it was a tedious job; one that was very well executed.
Ernest
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Thank you guys,
Next job are the rudders.
I removed the welds because they are not correct, i will replace them later with welds from the Archer kit.
On pictures from the 995, i noticed the rudders also have a rough steel surface with small holes and dimples, so i had the idea to simulate this with the help of some plastic cement and a piece of a steelwire brush.
On this picture the surface with the small holes clearly can be seen.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/m8z8yw.jpg)
The rudders with the removed welds
(http://i56.tinypic.com/i6ypp4.jpg)
The parts needed to replicate the steel surface
(http://i56.tinypic.com/qy67m9.jpg)
I brushed on a thin layer of cement to soften the plastic, after one minute i added a second layer and immediately started to push the wirebrush into the surface to create the holes.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/migw8z.jpg)
After one hour of drying, i sanded the surface smooth to remove the small pieces of melted plastic, and only the holes remained.
I am happy with the result of this wirebrush/cement experiment :)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/11ub4zm.jpg)
Karel
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Very nice technique!
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Excellent work on the rudders Karel. that's exactly what the rudders and other cast parts look like on the steel-hulled boats around here.
When going into that detail, you might also want to add a sacrificial zinc anode to each rudder.
In real life, the anodes could be almost any shape, from teardrop to rectangular. They were udually placed on the rudders between 1/3 and 1/5 of the way down from the top, and 1/3 - 1/5 from the leading edge. Not sure if there was one on each side of the rudder or just on the outside, but I've seen them in several photos.
The reason for the anodes is to use a 'less noble' metal as a sacrifice so that galvanic electrolysis dissolves the anode instead of the more valuable rudder.
I've also seen these anodes on the propellor shaft supports and the dive plane supports.
Not sure why, but they only seem to be around the stern of the U-boats, not the bow.
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:o
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Excellent work on the rudders Karel. that's exactly what the rudders and other cast parts look like on the steel-hulled boats around here.
When going into that detail, you might also want to add a sacrificial zinc anode to each rudder.
In real life, the anodes could be almost any shape, from teardrop to rectangular. They were udually placed on the rudders between 1/3 and 1/5 of the way down from the top, and 1/3 - 1/5 from the leading edge. Not sure if there was one on each side of the rudder or just on the outside, but I've seen them in several photos.
The reason for the anodes is to use a 'less noble' metal as a sacrifice so that galvanic electrolysis dissolves the anode instead of the more valuable rudder.
I've also seen these anodes on the propellor shaft supports and the dive plane supports.
Not sure why, but they only seem to be around the stern of the U-boats, not the bow.
Pat, do you have any reference pics for me from the anodes?
Thanks,
Karel
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Karel
Here a link to a picture of the anodes
http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=106.msg4968#msg4968 (http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=106.msg4968#msg4968)
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Thanks Simon ;)
Karel
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Wooow! Thats a detailed boat! Simply amazing!
If I remember correctly, the whole hull of U-995 has those little holes/rough structure...
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Wow, brilliant technique - do you mind reposting a copy in the Tips section?
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Will do that Rokket ;)
With the help of some pics i added Archer transfer welds and gave the rudders a coat of grey too see if the steel texture still would be visible after a layer of paint; i am glad that`s the case :)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/of8wev.jpg)
Karel
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I am still not sure about a thing; the drip channels...
I think i found prove that there were drip channels on the type VII, so i am still considering to make these on my boat.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/9tq17a.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/jfj9xx.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/1e3z3a.jpg)
Can you guys shine your lights this subject and on these pics? The last pic is actually from the 995.
Karel
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I found a clear pic to prove that indeed there were drip channels on wartime VIIC/41`s.
On the backside of the Revell instructions i saw this pic of U-1105.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/xkzp8y.jpg)
Karel
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Hi Karel
I am not 100% sure on the drip channels, I have not research this yet. But several things make my think about it. Why would you need a drip channel that sent 90% of it time under the water.
I think what looks like drip channels are attachment strips for the bow/stern casting cap for the saddle tank & hull casting. In some pictures you can clearly see holes that are for the rivets to fix the casting cap on to the saddle tank, and you can see a fixing strip on the pressure hull.
(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/958/new1tl.jpg)
(http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5800/new2e.jpg)
Picture from U-BOOTE CREWS: Daily Life, 1939 - 1945 by J Delize
In this pictures you can see the fixing strip (with rivet holes) along the pressures hull to fix the hull casting to. You can also see the fixinging strip around the casting cap of the saddle tank.
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Your explanation does make sense Simon, i don`t know exactly what the purpose was of these strips, fact is that they were there so i am gonna duplicate them.
Here`s a pic from the 995, maybe its of some help to you?
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2hydp2o.jpg)
Karel
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Based on these photos (I can't remember where I got them), U-995 didn't have those channels initially when put on display:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/4886010596_d0623a7780_b.jpg
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Hi goose814 and welcome aboard!
They are great pictures!! They must be sometime early 70's just after U-995 was put on display. In the second picture you can see the original bow!! I don
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You're welcome. Here are the rest I have:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/postcard1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/postcard2.jpg
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Thanks, goose814
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Nice pics Goose, never seen these before..
I have made the channels/strips from Evergreen profile strips, tomorrow i will post some pics, i am happy with the result.
Of course there will be different opinions on this subject but i chose to install them, based on the pictures i found.
Today i went to my local model store to get the colours i need for the lower hull (schiffsboden farbe III).
- 4 cans Humbrol 96
- 2 cans Humbrol 91
- 2 cans Humbrol 33
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2uqj539.jpg)
Finally, i am almost at the point of starting with the paintwork :) :) :)
Karel
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Really nice technique with the hull and rudders Karel. The model parts look like the original thing. Respect!
Ernest
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For the channels/strips, i took Evergreen U-profile strips (1.5 by 1.5mm), en cut one side away to get an L-profile wich i glued against the hull.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2vj7eap.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2vafiia.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/ipbg46.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2gwf7kx.jpg)
Karel
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Hi Karel
It looks great! The last picture look like the starboard sideof the boat. If so, that inlet vent on the side and end of the pressure hull should only be on the port side of the boat.
Simon
(http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/1228/hpbanks.th.jpg) (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/hpbanks.jpg/)
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Hi Karel
It looks great! The last picture look like the starboard sideof the boat. If so, that inlet vent on the side and end of the pressure hull should only be on the port side of the boat.
Simon
(http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/1228/hpbanks.th.jpg) (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/hpbanks.jpg/)
Thanks Simon will do that ;)
Karel
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Because i need a matt surface for the next step, i gave the hull a thin coat of matt grey.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/66lph3.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/mjq1vr.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/u0sw7.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/qsp1ly.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2gxmzyh.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/8wzkhc.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/91dyt5.jpg)
Karel
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I also corrected the `bullnose`.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/vhuxl1.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2pywdht.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2qd49xs.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/110agcp.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/fbgf7m.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2wmp443.jpg)
Karel
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Amazing build. Great attention to the detail!
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I REALLY like the look of the pressure hull with the treatment you gave it. That looks exactly like the steel-hulled boats around here under the waterline. I can almost imagine a few barnacles and bits of algae at the waterline.
A question.
In one of your pictures, there seems to be two eyebolts, one on each side between the stuffing boxes and the propellor shaft supports. What're they for? I don't recall seeing that anywhere before.
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You're welcome. Here are the rest I have:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/ph014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/postcard1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/goose814/postcard2.jpg
Those are nice pictures goose. Thanks for posting them.
Some people might recall back last spring or summer I was talking about the sacrificial zinc anodes that I'd seen on some U-boat photos, but I couldn't attach a photo because of my lack of a scanner.
Well, goose's pctures have a good example.
Take a look at the propellor support strut in pictures # 1, 9 and 11. On each of them you can see a vertical lump that looks perhaps a couple of cm wide by perhaps 8-10 cm long. Those are almost definitely zincs. the exact size and shape are variable, so if you want to add them to your build, don't worry so much about what they look like as long as they're there.
They'd also vary by location. Sometimes they might be near the leading edge of the rudder, sometimes on the struts as in goose's pictures, and sometimes on the hull. They will never be on the propellor shaft or the propellor itself. There will be several of them around the stern part of the ship. Not all zincs have to be identical on the same boat as they get replaced when necessary from whatever stock is at hand.
And the zincs will NEVER, ever be painted with anti-fouling paint as the whole idea is that the bare metal will erode faster than the parts of the hull. Usually they appear about the same colour as white metal castings, or perhaps silvery or whitish and pitted.
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Very nice work Karel. The correction of the bull nose was well executed and looks quite accurate.
Ernest
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Bullnose is excellent - but so is it ALL! Lovely!
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I painted the hull in the base colours `schifssbodenfarbe grau III` and Hellgrau`.
The pics are not very good yet, i have a new camera with a lot of functions/options so i have to find out how everything works..
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2a9dtf6.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2gtsx1u.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/169oz7b.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/21mbvxy.jpg)
Karel
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looking like a real miniature!
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Amazing work Karel, simply stunning!
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Very crisp and clean! Exceptional work Karel! ;)
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looking like a real miniature!
It is a real miniature... ;D
Karel, are you planing a camo on your U-995 ?
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I am painting the 995 in it`s normal colours, the lower hull Schiffsboden grau III and the upper hull hellgrau, after that i will give the upper hull a worn/weathered wintercamouflage (almost white).
I am now very busy with weathering the hull, updates will follow later... ;)
Karel
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Sneak preview....
(http://i51.tinypic.com/1z56ohd.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/219nn7d.jpg)
Karel
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I have no words! Really nice .............. :o
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WOW!!! That rust is sooo realistic, really, really top stuff. It could be a photo of real rust!!! It is some of the finest I have ever seen, again, photo real, true miniature museum work.
But that said....and I hate to be negative...SORRY! - it's too much rust for any boat under 20 years old. An AMAZING effect, and though light rust is everywhere even on newish boats, too much - that is a lot of rust. What year are you depicting?
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Thanks Rokket i appreciate your opinion ;)
i have seen many pics of U-boats with this much rust at the anchor bay (i will scan some pics later and post them)
Of course this is the area with the most rust, the rest of the boat will have less.
Later, i will also cover up some rust with paint flakes to simulate paint on top of the rust, this will also dampen the rust effect.
Nevertheless this boat will be more weathered than most other boats i have seen on the net, in my opinion most subs are a bit to clean (again, based on all the pics i have seen of subs returning from a long mission)
Karel
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Perfectly executed rust Karel. The best I have seen on a model to date in fact. Both the texture and shade(s) is/are extremely realistic. The painting of the uboot is also first rate.
Ernest
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Two more teasers of the progression on the hull....
(http://i56.tinypic.com/1ou9t5.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/xljmz6.jpg)
Karel
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This U-boat is an old and dangerous Wolf ! No rest, always on patrol, no time for repaint... Will soon fall apart ;D ;D ;D
Work executed with talent. Would love to see a global pic from the hull.
cheers Karel,
Pepper.
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That's a weather-beaten boat alright!
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I like it!
How did you achieve the chipping? Salt method?
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:o I especially loke those smoke-stains!
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Thanks guys,
Conus; the white/light grey striping on the upperhull is done with the hairspray technique.
For the lower hull i also used hairspray, but in this case i wiped the waterpaint away with a wet towel almost immediately after spraying it on. The paint remains in the lower parts and corners, in fact its a kind of wash with waterpaint on a base of hairspray.
I discovered this method while trying to achieve the right look.
A Sephia picture to get into the right mood... :D
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2nimo34.jpg)
Karel
-
Wow! EXCELLENT rust technique Karel. Especially in the anchor niche. Although I'm not sure how often U-boats actually used their anchors to scratch off the paint there).
It's looks REALLY realistic. The speia pic could almost be a period photo of a real boat.
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I have saved some of your pix for future weathering reference, in my "Info and techniques" folder. Outstanding.
Yes, they did get a lot of wear. I read Fluckey's book and Dick O'Kane's, and Iron Coffins - all three gents make some kind of similar comment about seeing their boat and all the chipped paint, faded, and salt damaged paint, even after only a few months.
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I`ve been busy with rust streaks, i use oil paint for this task because oil paint give`s me plenty of time to work.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/zj9yfo.jpg)
I also added dark algae/seeweed on the hull, the contrast between the satin hull and the matt algae`s can be seen on this pic.
I give this aspect a lot of attention because in my opinion various gradations between satin and matt brings more `life` into a model.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/302s085.jpg)
Karel
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:o !
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I added waterstripes/streaks on the upper half of the saddletanks, i did this with various shades of oilpaint.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/n2jvw1.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/20aq7ib.jpg)
I also airbrushed algae/seeweed on the waterline of the boat.
In my opinion this must be barely visible, on the pic below the green line can be seen on the saddletank
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2h6skk4.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/1zladn4.jpg)
Karel
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Wonderful work Karel. The painting and detail is first rate!
Ernest
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Amazing work Karel! I'm sure that it'll look terrific with the deck !
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Small update; i finished and weathered the aft steel deck.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/av4n89.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2j51fnm.jpg)
Karel
-
Very impressive.
Always tuned...
Pepper
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Very impressive.
I'm agree! :o
Always tuned...
Me too
Pepper
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:D many thanks guys...
I glued the wooden deck on the hull.
Before i could do that, i had to glue the lifeboat canisters (wich i made before) to the underside of the deck.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/684ex5.jpg)
Here the deck is fixed on the hull, i also darkened the deck a bit with some filters, and added some whitish dried seasalt stains around the hinges/hatches.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2jbacdt.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/xkx2ix.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/71nqqr.jpg)
Karel
-
Of all the boats I've seen Karel I have to say that yours has the best deck! Keep up the good work!
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Karel, great deck and hull!
She look like she had a long hard patrol at sea!
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Deck looks beautiful, very natural and real.
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Guy`s, thank you very much for the kind words, this really gives me a boost to make the best of this project ;)
I started work on the conning tower.
The tower had the same wintercamo paint as the upperhull; white on top of the basecolour.
To simulate a worn wintercamo (as often seen after a long mission), again i used the hairspray technique.
After that i smooth the edges of the chips a bit on some places with very fine sandingpaper, to simulate an irregularly worn pattern.
Of course this is only the beginning of the weathering proces on the tower, it still needs a lot of work.
The picture is a bit on the dark side, but this way the contrast between the base colour and the white wintercamo is more natural and beside that, it gives the pic a nice atmosphere 8)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/nohxkg.jpg)
Karel
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Great work Karel. Could you tell me how this hairspray technique works? Keep it up
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Yes, hear much abut hairspray but not the details...
-
Nice work!
About the HS technique : http://migjimenez.blogspot.com/2009/11/hairspray-technique-vol1.html
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Thank you Siara! Karel please keep us posted!
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thanks
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I bought a U-boot pin/badge from someone at my work, this badge was given to the u-boat crew after two succesful missions.
I am not sure if it is original (did some research on the net)but nevertheless it is a nice addition in the showcase together with the 995.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/25gyyat.jpg)
Karel
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Does it have any mark on the backside? You can also read this link from Wehrmacht awards with tons of info about the award:
http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/war_badges/kriegsmarine/uboat_badge.htm
-
FoxB,
I'm sure you're working for Hollywood ;D
What will be the movie title ?
;)
Pepper
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Your build contiues to impress Karel. I really like the deck.
Ernest
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Does it have any mark on the backside? You can also read this link from Wehrmacht awards with tons of info about the award:
http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/war_badges/kriegsmarine/uboat_badge.htm
It doesn`t have a mark on the backside, but there were three German manufactures who made these pins, and i understand that one of them didn`t put an inscription on the backside, so i still don`t know if its original or not.
But, as said before, that is not so important to me, its just a nice addition to display in the showcase ;)
Karel
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FoxB,
I'm sure you're working for Hollywood ;D
What will be the movie title ?
;)
Pepper
I wish that would be tru..... :D
-
The wooden decks in the conningtower are glued in and weathered
(http://i56.tinypic.com/ibx74n.jpg)
I also highlighted the panellines with a brown/black wash, next step are the rust/dirt streaks.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/dgifdx.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/23rsldi.jpg)
Karel
-
Rust applied....
(http://i55.tinypic.com/w0gia0.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/10dxxt2.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2afkf8o.jpg)
Karel
-
CG looks AWESOME!
-
Thanks ;)
Just a quick look how it looks on the hull...
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2eun245.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/281exbd.jpg)
Karel
-
Incredible, I love both pics! Could you tell this novice how you did the paneling with the brown/black wash? (how you applied it, with brush airbrush, etc)
-
Incredible, I love both pics! Could you tell this novice how you did the paneling with the brown/black wash? (how you applied it, with brush airbrush, etc)
I airbrushed the panellines (Iwata HP-SB) with a very thin brown/black mixture (enamel), and after that i toned the lines down with a flexible sanding cloth with a very fine grid (i don`t know the brand of it but they are very usefull) by gently wiping over the airbrushed panellines and removing the overspray.
Because the sanding cloth is flexible, it doesn`t damage the rivets, so it`s perfect for this job.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/i6ib2s.jpg)
Karel
-
Thank you Karel. What's next?
-
Well, the CT is glued on the hull.
Now i am busy with lots of small things; the schnorkel, the dive planes etc etc, the most time consuming jobs... :D
Karel
-
I am going to display the boat on two transparent plastic rods of 9mm diameter, this way i hope it looks like the boat is `floating` in the display case, viewing from a distance.
I glued two aluminium tubes (30mm long, 9mm inside diameter) into the hull.
The plastic rods will be attached on the base plate of the showcase, this way i can slide the boat over the two rods and remove the model if neccesary.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/301ngrd.jpg)
I also mounted the forward diving planes, the rudders and the prop shafts
(http://i56.tinypic.com/153spsg.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/np5t8y.jpg)
I made some rubber foam pieces to put the boat on, so i can work on the underside of the model.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/125jgww.jpg)
Karel
-
Superb modeling. Love it.
-
Thanks Siara ;)
Finished the lifeboat container lids..
(http://i55.tinypic.com/53qs28.jpg)
Karel
-
That looks so real! Karel you are doing a masterpiece!
Here's an out of place question, but anyway: did you apply the oil canning effect to the saddletanks?
-
Here is your answer ;)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/21mbvxy.jpg)
Karel
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fine, fine paint/weathering
-
Today, i worked on the schnorkel.
Because the 995 had a ringschwimmer head on the schnorkel (as one of the few), i had to scratch a new head from pieces of sprue.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2s8l8w3.jpg)
I also added a hydraulic line from 0.5mm brass wire in the bay, and on pictures i saw there were two steel wires/braces? on top of the hydraulic unit, i also made these from brass wire.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/wryn42.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/28qu8ef.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/24csdwg.jpg)
Karel
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Beautiful workmanship Karel! :o
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Those few touches really do the trick! Could you tell me how you did the painting of this particular piece? You got a really nice result and I'd like to learn how to do it!
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That is difficult to tell...i use no regular technique for this kind of weathering.
First thing to do is basecoat the part with grey enamel (in case of the hydraulic unit) and let it dry for two days.
Then i applied different washes varying from brown to grey to black, and let the wash creep into al the corners.
Because the wash darkens the paint, the object has to be drybrushed with a lighter grey colour to bring depth into the object and highlight the edges and higher laying parts.
I also added a very dilluted mixture of white pigments to simulate dried salt seawater on some spots with a fine pointed brush.
Sometimes i also use a piece of sponge to add stains.
As said before, i use these (and other) techniques to achieve this result, but never in the same order, mostly i work on `feeling`.
Karel
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I see what you mean, Thank you Karel. Keep it up!
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The capstan and the aft navigation light are added
(http://i55.tinypic.com/29m0ite.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/10de6nk.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2rxtcg4.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/6sumbk.jpg)
The anchor is also finished and glued on
(http://i54.tinypic.com/ajqb7c.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2586wys.jpg)
Karel
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Just one word: AMAZING!
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Thank you Conus ;)
The props are done; i painted the props with Alclad, and after that i added marine growth/fouling with a piece of sponge dipped in several colours of paint.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/eiuoac.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/16jpv6o.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2dshefo.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2imfbb.jpg)
Karel
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brilliant! I bought metal, reshaped, acid and bleached and salt watered, but I think it would have been easier to use your brilliant technique, which i plan to do on the Gato. Beautiful!
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I have to agree as well... there's no way I'd pay for brass props on my model if you can get results like these!
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Thanks guys!
I added zinc anodes, i made them from pieces of PE brass plate.
The props are also glued on, and i applied some marine growth on the rudders and struts.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/maw56f.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2sac8ko.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/29p1y50.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/15z2zwh.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2mfww01.jpg)
Karel
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You never stop amazing me Karel, that seaweed effect is awesome!
-
I think once you're done with U-995 you should build the Laboe Naval Memorial, just to show them what condition she *should* be in ;D
-
I have been busy working on the deck railings.
I replaced most of the railings with 0.5 brass wire, which is better scale thickness.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/iznehv.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/qsjoxw.jpg)
I also made 4 turnbuckles which were used to tighten the cables between the railings.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/vxk8bs.jpg)
For the turnbuckles i used brass tube from Albion Alloys with an outer diameter of 0.8mm, and an inner diameter of 0.4mm, and made four tubes of 5mm length.
I stripped a electrocable to aqquire 0.07mm wire to make the eyebolts, and soldered the wire into the tubes.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/i6eetj.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/1117676.jpg)
Find the turnbuckle.... :D
(http://i51.tinypic.com/20fb91h.jpg)
Karel
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VERY impressive...but you could have used the (AMP) UBrass fro WEM... ;D
-
you could have used the (AMP) UBrass fro WEM... ;D
That`s too easy... :D
I finished the railings and fixed the cables between them, didn`t like the job...
(http://i54.tinypic.com/i3eydk.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2welx5v.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2vn4eoo.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2j5gv2q.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2cfzexe.jpg)
Karel
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How did you make the cables Karel?
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How did you make the cables Karel?
I made these from braided fishing wire, 0.12mm thickness, made from dyneema.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2yngwuf.jpg)
Karel
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Finished the life saving buoy`s
(http://i52.tinypic.com/e7z2tz.jpg)
I made new rods/pipes, which are mounted on the fore and afterdeck.
(Does anyone knows the purpose of these parts?)
The Revell parts were bend, so i made new ones from brass, and combined them with the Eduard PE clamps.
The Revell parts..
(http://i55.tinypic.com/1z1w674.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/242u4qo.jpg[/img
[img]http://i52.tinypic.com/5pix40.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/i5ofv8.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2zsz6hf.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/nvqkc7.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/wssqo7.jpg)
I also soldered new antenna wire tripods from brass wire with a more accurate scale thickness
(http://i56.tinypic.com/etejx0.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2eecwwm.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/33p93ps.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/331nl9h.jpg)
Karel
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I have been working on the periscope and other small things such as the UZO and the hatch in the CT.
The wires on the scope were made from 0.07mm copperwire.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/hv3us4.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/w83xue.jpg)
I also made the PE `naxos` antenna
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2cmnih5.jpg)
The periscope was kept in a good working order by greasing it sometimes, i replicated this by adding black oilpaint on the scope, and wit a dry brush i wiped most of the paint of again only to leave some black streaks.
This is difficult to see on the pics, soon i will make some better pics in daylight.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/ff63nk.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/solv2x.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/208k2ef.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/33oic6o.jpg)
Karel
-
I made new rods/pipes, which are mounted on the fore and afterdeck.
(Does anyone knows the purpose of these parts?)
I'd say they'd most certainly have to be gaffs. Any boat of appreciable size should have them. What are they and how are they used? Quite simple... take a hook (usually bent back through 180 degrees) and stick it on the end of a pole, their main use is to hook a line in the water so you can haul it on deck and use it. I've seen simple ones made by poor fishermen made from a bent spike and a length of 1x2" wood, the hook attached with either a tight lashing or using a few inches of ABS pipe to heat-shrink it together. Modern commercial ones for yachting are made from extruded aluminum to create telescopic tubes, allowing you to vary the length, and they also have their hook made out of plastic, featuring a point on the end so you can also use it to push the boat off the docks when mooring.
I'd imagine docking in the pens would be very simple for the u-boats since they were more-or-less custom designs for the fleet, but things would get tricky when you're on the ocean trying to raft up with a milk cow. Something with the size and weight of a u-boat would require some decently sized mooring lines or hawsers in order to safely hold her in place, which means that they're heavy and thus makes throwing a line difficult. For a heavy hawser it's very common to have a much thinner leader line tied on to the eye of the hawser - throwing a small line is way easier! Alas, we are all human, and sometimes rope throws fail. This is where the gaff shines - dip it in the water and hook the leader line.
The gaff from my kit would scale up to 9 feet (3m), a rather practical length to use - the type VIIs draw about 4.75m at a full surface trim, thus 1.5m freeboard, so a 3m gaff would be quite useful. Useful yet small, and easily lost overboard, hence why you always want to carry two.
Hope this helps!
-
A big and nice trip... Enjoying a lot FoxbaT.
;) Big Bro...
-
The guns are painted, weathered and mounted on the CT...
(http://i56.tinypic.com/4ugvnm.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/25k7ynn.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2lxjjwz.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/jjy5vr.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/16bacy0.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2lbdpfl.jpg)
Karel
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Guns look superb, as does everything else! :o
-
Impressive stuff Karel, those flak guns really do the trick!
-
The U995 is finished, high res pics are made today...
Karel
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Pics are made...
I would like to thank all of you who helped me with my questions.
You guys really helped me a lot and motivated me to make the best of this project!
A friend made some high resolution pics in RAW format which first has te be converted on his PC, in the meantime i will place some pics wich i made with my compact camera.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2n6c3ur.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2s6m0qf.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/axfuiu.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2vakzli.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2d6m78p.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/23lh5zc.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/efju9v.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/29bdaua.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/1py1ap.jpg)
The other pictures will follow later ;)
Karel
-
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv153/edigleyg3/aplausos.gif)
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Johann perfect visual for this great build! Well Done FoxBat!!!
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Awesome Karel, just awesome. Your build is defnitely the best I've seen so far with Siara's U552. Well done!
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Contragts mate, great work, awesome u-boat !!!
If i may : the cables, hinges, deserves your skills, more details. ;)
Cheers,
Pepper.
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Nice build and GREAT weathering!
Waiting impatiently for hi-res pictures. ;)
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Any chance for hi-res pictures?
I'd like to save them for my archive as a future reference for weathering. I think it is excellent!
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Thanks guys for the comments,
the high res pics will be made soon, when i have them i will post them immediately ;)
Karel
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Fantastic looking model. One of the best U-Boats around. Congratulations.
-
A friend of mine made some new pics of the 995 in his photo studio.
One disadvantage of this forum is that the pics are being resized, a lot of details can`t be seen now.
Anyway, more pics....
(http://i52.tinypic.com/5fpuh5.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/jpeq1i.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/331qcrd.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/51t553.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2zjdj78.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2ypkh7k.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/302x343.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/28mnrkw.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/29qjz3c.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/28mpmye.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/anj5sk.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/k2kd8y.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2nsz0pt.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/10n866g.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/5yuvj8.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/ndvdqf.jpg)
Karel
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Grea pictures Karel!
It look like she had a hard, long, last patrol!
-
A friend of mine made some new pics of the 995 in his photo studio.
One disadvantage of this forum is that the pics are being resized, a lot of details can`t be seen now.
Karel
Hi Mate, I'm creating a model for Silent Hunter 5 (U-Boat sim) and love the look of your model.
I'd love to recreate it as a texture for the in-game model.
Is there any chance you could release your Hi-Res Pics in a .Rar file and post a link.
Would be very grateful.
Regards
Reaper7
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My God! You would swear that anchor was made of solid metal and weighed half a ton! :o Superb work Karel!
-
Stunning! :o Really beautiful... Those props... I can see they are grey... Was it so that they used steel props later in the war? I think i
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Stunning! :o Really beautiful... Those props... I can see they are grey... Was it so that they used steel props later in the war? I think i
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Yes, they change to steel props because brass was hard to get near the end of the war
That
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Superb looking model :o :o Love the weathering, congratulations on a magnificent job.
Fred
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Thank you so much guys for the kind words ;)
Karel
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really beautiful, our pleasure mate!
-
I have been thinking about my next project and i have made my decision:
I am going to build Revell`s 1/72 Flower class corvette `HMCS Snowberry`, maybe i am going to build it as the`HMS Bluebell`, i am still not sure about that.
The reason for building this kit is that it`s the same scale as the U995, and the Flower class corvettes operated mostlly in the North Atlantic, the same area where the U995 operated.
In other words; this is going to be U995`s opponent...
I am going to build this kit with most of the PE-kits that are available.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/2ekt9uc.jpg)
There is one drawback, i will start the build at the end of the year, for now i have other hobbies ;D
In the meantime i will gather information, books etc etc about the flower classe corvettes.
When the time is there, i will open a topic in the `Destroyer` section.
Karel
-
I
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Thats a nice boat to build. I never knew Revell even made these. I canny wait to see your results Karel :P
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Nice choice and good reasons, Karel. Use the time wisely and we look fwd to seeing the build start!
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Stunning! :o Really beautiful... Those props... I can see they are grey... Was it so that they used steel props later in the war? I think i
-
I didn`t paint the props grey, i painted them stainless steel, and added some marine growth afterwards.
With some light on the props it can be seen they are shiny beneath the barnacles ;)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/20fz537.jpg)
Karel
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I never participated with any model contest before, but this year i tested my luck with the U995, and i entered the U995 in the three of the most important model contests in The Netherlands and in Belgium this year;
-ModelForce in Helchteren, Belgium : http://www.moveleo.be/modelforce/index_en.html
-Scale Model Challenge in Veldhoven, Netherlands : http://www.scalemodelfactory.nl/smc01.html
-Euro Scale Modeling in Nieuwegein, Netherlands : http://www.ipms.nl/eindex.html
Yesterday, i took the U995 to the last event of the year, Euro Scale Modeling.
I am glad and proud to tell that i took gold at all three contests, i still cannot believe it.... :D
I could not have done this without all the help i got from this forum, so thanks everybody who helped me when i had questions ;)
Mission accomplished...
(http://i56.tinypic.com/280shvq.jpg)
Karel
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Congratulations Karel! I'm not surprised by the awards, you have created a masterpiece!
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Congratulations mate, although I cant say I am surprised as that boat is a work of art ;)
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Way to go Karel! ;)
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Congratulations Karl! Your build deservedly won Gold at all three contests as it is simply superb. Well done indeed!
Ernest
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Well done! An excellent display, and those look like very worthy, quality Golds. Congratulations!
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Beautiful! Really earned trophies! ;)
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Thank you so much guys ;)
Karel
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A wonderful Boat!:)
...and i copy some techniques for my Boat, from this workbench i can learn a lot..thanks for it:)
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i really love your work...
it's so daaaaaaam realistik....
looking for some tip...
btw this is benchmark one
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Well Done sir!
-
Thankss :)
Karel