Poll

What Model Should I Build Next

1/350 RoG Bismarck
7 (58.3%)
1/72 CMK Control Room
0 (0%)
1/48 Tamiya He-219 "Uhu"
2 (16.7%)
1/35 AFV Club 7.5cm Pak Diorama
3 (25%)

Total Members Voted: 10

Voting closed: 08 Feb , 2010, 02:03

Author Topic: Vote for Greif's Next Build  (Read 6183 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline wildspear

  • Silversides King
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 295
  • Gender: Male
  • Grand Zebra
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #15 on: 06 Feb , 2010, 14:39 »
Ernest,

They look pretty good to me. I have always shied away from figures, have never been very good at painting that type stuff. After seeing all the work done by the members here, I'm getting an itch to give it a try....maybe at 1/72 for my gato......

Offline Pat

  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 395
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #16 on: 06 Feb , 2010, 15:29 »
Griffon, any ideas wanted for surface ships, I'll be happy to help.

Offline Pat

  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 395
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #17 on: 06 Feb , 2010, 15:53 »
As you guys have already discussed, painting figures is an important, and sometimes highly personal, technique that makes a huge difference in how they turn out.

One of the things that I do with figures painting to make them look more realistic is to use special brushes that I've cut down for the purpose.  For things like buttons, eyeballs (even irises if the scale allows), some of my brushes consist of only one or two hairs.  To steady your hand, rest it on top of a padded rest or even your other wrist, so that only your fingertips can move.  The piece being painted can be held in some sort of clip or vice under a magnifying glass if that helps you.

Another thing that's often overlooked though is drilling and cutting.  The drilling is simple, I use a very fine drill to hollow out such things as the nostrils and ear canals.  Sometimes a glass in the hand can be made from clear plastic sprue (from aircraft and car models) drilled out and then filled with thinned enamel paint.

The cutting is for things like pant and sleeve cuffs, and undercutting lapels and ties (some uniforms, like tankers often wear ties) and around the collars.  To do this, I use a hot knife to make the initial cut, and then a scalpel/X-acto knife to smooth out the edges.

Anything like belts, webbing straps, epaullettes and packs should be cut off and then replaced with either sheet styrene, paper, tissue or whatever else will give the right effect.  The idea is to create realistic shadow lines that just can't be achieved with painting. 

For example, with a soldier wearing a bedroll, I'd cut off and discard the plastic bedroll and make a new one out of rolled up tissue (1 ply), painted appropriately and then bound with straps made of painted paper.  Buckles can be made out of brass wire, bent into the correct shape and then hammered flat.  Buttons can also be made by drilling and putting brass wire in the holes.

Offline Rokket

  • Administrator
  • *
  • Posts: 2,362
  • Gender: Male
  • Submarine Enthusiast
    • AMP - Accurate Model Parts
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #18 on: 06 Feb , 2010, 20:14 »
That seems like the best way to go, pat, much more real. Thanks for sharing your secrets
AMP - Accurate Model Parts - http://amp.rokket.biz

Offline Pat

  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 395
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #19 on: 06 Feb , 2010, 22:34 »
I haven't tried it (mainly because the last time I made a diorama was 20 years ago - it's rare to find a diorama with tall ship models) but a technique I learned a while ago to add some realism in a diorama was to make bottles or stemwear for your figures.

Again, use clear plastic sprue from aircraft or car models (never throw out clear sprue - coloured fine, there's lots of it but the clear stuff seems irreplaceable).

On a lathe, just turn the sprue at very slow speed into the correct shape.  If you don't have a lathe, just put the sprue into a drill chuck and hold a sharp blade or bit of sandpaper against it.  Don't use a file because if you go too fast, the sprue melts and it's the devil to get out of a file.

Once you have the right shape, just hold it in a pair of forceps and wave it over a candle flame to polish it.  If you want the bottle partially filled, drill out from the bottom, put in thinned enamel, and then plug the bottom with thick CA.  Fill stemwear and other glasses the same way, just don't plug them.

Slainte!

Offline Greif

  • Admiral2
  • *
  • Posts: 755
  • Gender: Male
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #20 on: 07 Feb , 2010, 01:14 »
Couldn't agree more about technique being a highly personal choice.  I don't modify my figures much any more.  I mostly use figures made by Jaguar, Hornet and Warriors; with a few by DML also.  They are pretty highly detailed straight out of the box, with crisp molding and fine features.  Guess I'm just getting lazy as I get older! 

Back to your point though, I have not jumped on the acrylics bandwagon for painting faces.  I still use artists oils and the techniques I learned 25 years ago, and to be honest I have never seen a reason to change.  Armed with a good set of Windsor&Newton #7 brushes, I am comfortable laying in oils.

I will definitely be asking you some questions regarding warship construction when I start my Bismarck build.  I plan to keep construction mostly OOB as I dip my toe in, so to speak.

Ernest     


As you guys have already discussed, painting figures is an important, and sometimes highly personal, technique that makes a huge difference in how they turn out.

One of the things that I do with figures painting to make them look more realistic is to use special brushes that I've cut down for the purpose.  For things like buttons, eyeballs (even irises if the scale allows), some of my brushes consist of only one or two hairs.  To steady your hand, rest it on top of a padded rest or even your other wrist, so that only your fingertips can move.  The piece being painted can be held in some sort of clip or vice under a magnifying glass if that helps you.

Another thing that's often overlooked though is drilling and cutting.  The drilling is simple, I use a very fine drill to hollow out such things as the nostrils and ear canals.  Sometimes a glass in the hand can be made from clear plastic sprue (from aircraft and car models) drilled out and then filled with thinned enamel paint.

The cutting is for things like pant and sleeve cuffs, and undercutting lapels and ties (some uniforms, like tankers often wear ties) and around the collars.  To do this, I use a hot knife to make the initial cut, and then a scalpel/X-acto knife to smooth out the edges.

Anything like belts, webbing straps, epaullettes and packs should be cut off and then replaced with either sheet styrene, paper, tissue or whatever else will give the right effect.  The idea is to create realistic shadow lines that just can't be achieved with painting. 

For example, with a soldier wearing a bedroll, I'd cut off and discard the plastic bedroll and make a new one out of rolled up tissue (1 ply), painted appropriately and then bound with straps made of painted paper.  Buckles can be made out of brass wire, bent into the correct shape and then hammered flat.  Buttons can also be made by drilling and putting brass wire in the holes.

Offline Greif

  • Admiral2
  • *
  • Posts: 755
  • Gender: Male
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #21 on: 08 Feb , 2010, 02:44 »
The Bismarck wins going away - much like the Saints last night.  Construction begins when I get home from work today.  I have already started a thread in the "Battleship" section for those interested.

Ernest

Offline Rokket

  • Administrator
  • *
  • Posts: 2,362
  • Gender: Male
  • Submarine Enthusiast
    • AMP - Accurate Model Parts
Re: Vote for Greif's Next Build
« Reply #22 on: 09 Feb , 2010, 03:45 »
Excellent! You have a cool model, great history, new stuff, and pleasing the Missus
AMP - Accurate Model Parts - http://amp.rokket.biz