Author Topic: U-673  (Read 42032 times)

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Offline Rokket

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Re: U-673
« Reply #60 on: 10 Sep , 2011, 01:25 »
Love the progress, and the funkiness of this boat!
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Offline GlennCauley

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Re: U-673
« Reply #61 on: 10 Sep , 2011, 06:52 »
Building railings piece-by-piece is very boring, tedious, and frustrating... but the results are satisfying!
Fortunately the more you do, the quicker it gets since you pick up tricks along the way.  :)
Glenn Cauley
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Offline GlennCauley

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Re: U-673
« Reply #62 on: 10 Sep , 2011, 09:43 »
So far...  :)




Glenn Cauley
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Offline SG

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Re: U-673
« Reply #63 on: 10 Sep , 2011, 10:54 »
Congrats Glenn, amazing work!

Offline FoxbaT

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Re: U-673
« Reply #64 on: 11 Sep , 2011, 04:52 »
Interesting look, the forward gun platform  :)
Wel made Glenn.





Karel

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Re: U-673
« Reply #65 on: 11 Sep , 2011, 07:53 »
Great! Can't wait to see further developments!

Offline GlennCauley

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U-673 front AA platform railings... done (?)
« Reply #66 on: 11 Sep , 2011, 11:28 »
Here's the MOSTLY-completed forward AA platform.

Reminder to self:  get the railing plans RIGHT cuz having to cut things apart and re-do them after you THOUGHT you had it right is just plain annoying!  :P
Don't worry, I'll be filing the joints to make them look better.

Need to add:  support legs, ladder, antenna conduit pipes, wire anchor brackets.




« Last Edit: 11 Sep , 2011, 19:45 by GlennCauley »
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Offline GlennCauley

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U-673 front AA platform ladder
« Reply #67 on: 11 Sep , 2011, 15:03 »
Ladder made from 0.50mm brass wire, soldered together with Koki solder paste.  With the Koki solder paste, I don't need a soldering iron... rather I use a butane torch with a hot air blower tip.  Works fantastic, and the soldered joints are very strong.





« Last Edit: 11 Sep , 2011, 19:45 by GlennCauley »
Glenn Cauley
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Offline GlennCauley

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U-673 wooden tower decks
« Reply #68 on: 11 Sep , 2011, 18:49 »
I've been going back & forth about using the Nautilus wooden tower decks.

The PROs of using the wooden tower decks:
I can paint the tower in one shot (without masking), then stain & weather the decks and install them afterwards.

The only CON about the wooden tower decks is that they seem overly thick.

The wooden decks are 1.05mm thick... then when you put it atop the plastic deck it looks unrealistically thick.

Options?  
1: Scrape down the plastic deck, or 2: thin the wooden deck to a more reasonable thickness.
Option 1 is not really... well... an option, since the tower was already assembled and scraping them down would be very difficult.  Sooooooooo....... out came the sanding sticks!

I sanded the wintergarten (lower) wooden deck to 0.60mm thickness and it looks MUCH better when laid atop the plastic deck.

Below are some pics of the regular thickness upper tower deck (1.05mm) and the thinned wintergarten deck (0.60mm).

I also had to file & cut some grooves in the wintergarten wooden deck for the small round hatches, so the clamps & hinges fit properly.






« Last Edit: 12 Sep , 2011, 10:43 by GlennCauley »
Glenn Cauley
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Offline FoxbaT

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Re: U-673
« Reply #69 on: 12 Sep , 2011, 04:04 »
I had the same problem, i sanded the wooden deck as thin as possible and glued it onto the plastic deck.
In my opinion that is the best solution..




Karel


Offline GlennCauley

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Re: U-673
« Reply #70 on: 12 Sep , 2011, 09:45 »
Love the progress, and the funkiness of this boat!

Yup, this sure is one funky-looking boat!  
Can't wait to build the quad 20mm flakvierling for the rear platform.  :D
Glenn Cauley
President, IPMS Ottawa
gc-scalemodels.ca

Offline GlennCauley

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Re: U-673
« Reply #71 on: 12 Sep , 2011, 13:13 »
Like FoxbaT, I too chose to use the 3.7cm Flak M42 cannon from the following Griffon Models set:

GMA-N005 1/72 Standard Armament Scheme for WW II German U-Boote Type VII C/41

This set contains enough parts for two twin-20mm guns, and the Flak cannon.
(For the rear 2.0cm quad flakvierling, I'll be deciding between the Eduard PE set and the Griffon Models PE set for the S-100 boat.)

The 3.7cm Flak cannon is ALL brass... teeny-tiny PE pieces and a turned metal barrel.  It truly is a masterpiece to behold... and certainly a challenge to build. I selected this to be a project for the wonderous Koki solder paste instead of using CA to glue it together.  It results in a very strong cannon, but it is a challenge to use solder paste on such small pieces... you always risk other previously-soldered pieces coming off.



« Last Edit: 12 Sep , 2011, 13:20 by GlennCauley »
Glenn Cauley
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Offline GlennCauley

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Re: U-673
« Reply #72 on: 13 Sep , 2011, 06:22 »
U-673 did not have the cable mounting brackets on the top forward edge of the tower (like other boats did), so those slots were filled in.  The new brackets will be on the top railing of the forward AA platform.

I found a great way to keep small PE pieces in place and heat the Koki solder paste without the part moving... tape!  
Here is the wire bracket I soldered onto the front AA platform brass rail.
I stuck on a small piece of blue "low tack" tape and made a "shelf" for the PE piece to sit on.  Then I added the solder paste & put the bracket in place.  The piece is so light, and a small piece of blue masking tape has enough strength & tack that it stays in place and doesn't droop.

I use an old Weller (?) butane torch with hot air tip to heat the solder paste; the blower tip is fairly small so it has good accuracy.  Usually the solder paste is melting about the same time that the tape is starting to singe a bit. Voila... solder melted, part didn't move, strong joint!   Tape removes easily.



« Last Edit: 13 Sep , 2011, 09:15 by GlennCauley »
Glenn Cauley
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Offline FoxbaT

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Re: U-673
« Reply #73 on: 13 Sep , 2011, 07:55 »
Good tip Glenn! thanks for that  ;)




Karel

Offline SG

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Re: U-673
« Reply #74 on: 13 Sep , 2011, 09:27 »
Glenn, am speechless!
two questions:
-do you also use a soldering wire or the koki paste alone does the job?
-would you provide me w a reference number for the koki paste you've been using? (i did some research and apparently koki produces quite a nr of different types of soldering paste, so i cant figure out which is the most appropriate one for soldering tiny PE sets) 
thanks in advance and congrats again for the excellent work!
SG