U-826

[LE BOSCO]

Hi
the Photos of a modification of my deck(I preserve the deck of Revell ).I have to realize part which comes as a replacement from the part which is in front of the kiosk .,Seen I have cut the shelter of the repeater of the compass
The part of the deck cut, and in white the part of bridge build for the occasion


The part was to moulded  in resin (A), and to stick on the deck (B)



And to finish, the arrangement under the deck of the receptacle of the schnorchel



regards
Nicolas

[LE BOSCO]

Hi

Oops! I had forgotten to show you a stage)!It was necessary to cut the deck at the level of the opening of the passage of the mast

A view of the new system of pivot of the new mast of the schnorchel

The set(group), presented in a temporary way

Continuation of the work tomorrow

regards
Nicolas

[TRM]

Apr

[LE BOSCO]

Hi T 

Everything returned in the right direction,thank you to have warned me
best regards
Nico

[Pat]

Hi hal

the masters of my "tins"(in french)



the first copy in resin



i make the "parre battement" (i dont know the name In English)


The same in situation



I has to prepare him to be molded!

regards
Nicolas

"Tins" in French, en anglais is "chocks", and that's exactly how you are using them.

But why are you molding them in resin?  I would make them each individually out of wood, with a little strap of paper or plastic to represent the metal brackets.  That way, they'd all be slightly different and real wood would look much more like, well, real wood than resin.

As an example, when last I built a sailing ship model, even though I had all the gun carriages from the kit, I remade them all out of wood and there were slight imperfections introduced in each one which made the overall effect much more realistic in the end.  The "tins" (or chocks) are much easier to make and you can buy balsa or even hardwoods in square section that can be distressed (dented, worn) to make them look like wood that's been sitting around the dockyard and is just put in place as needed.

As for the parre battement, I can't find a translation of that into English but from the picture, I would call them "fenders" or rope fenders (to differentiate them from modern plastic fenders).

A comment on the fenders you've made.  I'd make the loops at the top and the knot on the railing VERY small.  In real life, you want to use as little rope as possible both to save on rope and to stop them from slipping and wearing along the railing.  The knots tighten up at the rail and the loop at the top of the fenders is spliced or whipped in place.

Also, the proper knot to use at the railing is the bowline.  http://www.tollesburysc.co.uk/Knots/Bowline.htm

instead of the half-hitch in your picture.  A bowline won't slip but the half-hitch will.

I'd also make each of the fenders individually out of thread (you should be able to get rope coloured thread at sewing centres or hobby shops (at least those here) have scale rope for sailing ship models) because again, each one would be slightly different and some would be more weathered than others. 

Unlike the tins/chocks, you would only need to make 3 or 4 fenders.

Your model work is VERY good BTW.

[Pat]

Oh, another knot that could be used to attach the fender to the railing is the rolling hitch.

http://www.tollesburysc.co.uk/Knots/Rolling_hitch.htm

[LE BOSCO]

Hi pat

Thank you for the translation of the maritime term!As regards the"chocks"in resin i am just lazybones!
I do not want to cut so many pieces of wood
and for the knots ,it was just for the photo, it is not finishes!
best regards
Nicolas

[Pat]

LOL, you and I have a different philosophie then on the wood.

I haven't done anything too special on the base for my U-boat, unlike what looks to be shaping up to a dockyard for yours.  All I've done is cut a brass nameplate with gothic lettering for the OOB base.

But as for wood and the deck, I've basically thrown out the deck on my boat (after taking down all the measurements of course) and am building my own.  Partially this was because I didn't want the schnorkel and covering the hole it was too difficult to match the kit planks.

So Ive been building my own deck out of wood with all the crossbeams underneath and all the hatches as individual assemblies.  Most of the large hatches will have hinges to open up so as to expose the pressure hull.

I've got most of the deck frames built, but the only decks completed are in the conning tower and wintergarten.  However, even that small area amounts to 119 separate pieces of planks. 

I estimate that to do the entire deck might end up over 1,000 planks, not counting the hinges and latches and framework underneath, which might be another 1,000.

[LE BOSCO]

Hi all

pat
Your U-BOOT has to be a real delight for eyes,You have to have a patience has any test deserving of a monk!!
Before closing the deck,i realized the bottom of 4 watertight containers  .Indeed have perceive them by the holes of flood

and i make the Masters of watertight containers, present has the back of the kiosk


a plus
Nicolas

[TRM]

Again Nicolas, Very nice!  Keep the photos coming.

De nouveau Nicolas, Tr

[Pat]

Yes TRM. I agree that Nicolas' work is very good. And he's a good photographer too.

Nicolas, patience was developed by attaching ratlines on the large voileurs. If you can do that for three decked warships, you can make a deck for a U-boat too.

Oui TRM. Je conviens que le travail de Nicolas est tr

[Pepper-mint]

Bonjour Nicolas,

Tr

[LE BOSCO]

Hi all

Thank you for your comment who go up to in my heart!!!

Pat
ratlines in french ,says to himself "Haubans " I believe!!
Pepper-mint
It is the true that this forum is the real gold mine! :)Good "courage" for the assembly of your VII-C/41!
And if I can help has whatever it is, does not hesitate!

Otherwise at the same time I began the assembly of my 37mm

the mount and the gun



The same assembly  temporarily, just for the proportions





what think of it you??

The last parts make in resin

the insulators and  "tighten c

[Pat]

Ah, NOW I see what you were talking about regarding the 37mm mounting.  I was mistakenly looking at the splinter shield and not seeing any difference, but now that you've made the part, it's quite obvious.

It looks almost futuristic.  Sort of like old time science fiction comics, which is perhaps where the idea came from (or vice versa?).

Yes, your photos DO have a profession, studio look about them.  I was taught how to do photography like that with light tables and such way back when I was working in pathology, but that was in the days of celluloid film and I don't have the equipment any more.  But your pix DO look good!

So does your resin work.

Your insulators in the molding blocks look much like some of the frames for the deck I'm building out of styrene I-beams and T-beams.  If you can do that detailed work, you'd have no problem framing up a deck like I'm doing.

[NZSnowman]

Nicolas, I just found this picture of U-1306, not sure if you see it before, with the same 3.7cm mounting.