AMP - Accurate Model Parts
SEA => SUBS: Uboats => TYPE VII => Topic started by: Greif on 28 Dec , 2009, 07:35
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Hello and I hope everyone had a nice christmas. Well, I did not get the hoped for Andrea 1/32 scale Deck Gun model. My dear wife said it looked stupid - so she got me a 1/350 scale kit of the Bismarck. It's a nice kit, but I have zero interest in surface ships as modeling subjects. Looks like I'll be doing some trading!
The Andrea kit is now currently oos at the places I buy from in the states, and I refuse to pay the $236.00 it would cost by ordering direct from Andrea. What to do? ???
Well.....I've had the four CMK interior kits for some time now, and have always planned a build, so "Let's get to it!" as they say.
The plan: I will build the interiors, starting with the Engine Room, first. Once they are finished, I will install them into a #5015 Revell kit. I am leaning towards modeling U307. Of course that means I'll have to do some modifications to the vent pattern; apart from that, I'll so some minor detailing to the CT. I'm undecided if I will cut the center slit open and model the part of the internal structure as I did with U228. I'll decide when I get to that point.
This will be a long term build, and it is undoubtably going to have some construction pauses. As soon as I post this, I will begin building (the Engine Room kit is already calling to me. :D) Sometime do the road, I'll have to buy a Revell #5015 kit, or maybe I'll get lucky and find someone who wants to trade one, say for a 1/350 scale Bismarck. ;D
Ernest
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Hello and I hope everyone had a nice christmas. Well, I did not get the hoped for Andrea 1/32 scale Deck Gun model. My dear wife said it looked stupid - so she got me a 1/350 scale kit of the Bismarck. It's a nice kit, but I have zero interest in surface ships as modeling subjects. Looks like I'll be doing some trading!
The Andrea kit is now currently oos at the places I buy from in the states, and I refuse to pay the $236.00 it would cost by ordering direct from Andrea. What to do? ???
Well.....I've had the four CMK interior kits for some time now, and have always planned a build, so "Let's get to it!" as they say.
The plan: I will build the interiors, starting with the Engine Room, first. Once they are finished, I will install them into a #5015 Revell kit. I am leaning towards modeling U307. Of course that means I'll have to do some modifications to the vent pattern; apart from that, I'll so some minor detailing to the CT. I'm undecided if I will cut the center slit open and model the part of the internal structure as I did with U228. I'll decide when I get to that point.
This will be a long term build, and it is undoubtably going to have some construction pauses. As soon as I post this, I will begin building (the Engine Room kit is already calling to me. :D) Sometime do the road, I'll have to buy a Revell #5015 kit, or maybe I'll get lucky and find someone who wants to trade one, say for a 1/350 scale Bismarck. ;D
Ernest
Ernest:
A belated Merry Christmas.
The new project sounds exciting. I hope you will keep us up-to-date as the build progresses, and don't worry about lapses. That's a facet of our hobby.
I scratchbuilt a full interior some years back for the Revell 1/125 model by cutting away half the hull (Port side) and it came out pretty nice. Revell had a model available back then supposedly with a visable interior but it was so far wrong as to be laughable which prompted my build.
As to the Andrea kit I suggest marking time until you can get it at a price that won't wipe you out. The U307 -or whatever boat you decide to model- will keep you busy until then.
As to the Bismarck...Trade it for something you want. (So long as it won't make a shambles of your domestic tranquility.)
Stay well, Ernest, and have a Happy New year.
Don
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Nice idea Ernest. Im sitting in the front row, with big bag of popcorn in my hand. ;)
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Thanks for the well wishes and interest Don and Siara. Well I was going to post the first pictures of the Engine, but it looks like the folder is full. I will post them in the "On the Bench" section of the gallery.
The first picture shows the engine after standard construction, "stock" if you will. The next three show the engine after scratchbuilding and detailing is complete. I used a few parts from the "spares" box; for example, the small knobs are 1/48th scale machinegun sights. As you can see, I used assorted sizes of copper and plastic rod for the piping.
I need to find a place to buy some 1/72 scale hand wheels as I am out; and the spare parts box will only take one so far. Any suggestions are welcome.
Anyway, I hope a few of you take the time to have a look and, as always, comments, both positive and negative are welcome.
Ernest
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Sounds exciting! (Why donn't wives understand?...) I've never been able to find them, but I've heard that HO scale train parts are close to 1:72 for the handwheels. Some freight cars have them (old style) for coupling cars.
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Thanks for the well wishes and interest Don and Siara. Well I was going to post the first pictures of the Engine, but it looks like the folder is full. I will post them in the "On the Bench" section of the gallery.
The first picture shows the engine after standard construction, "stock" if you will. The next three show the engine after scratchbuilding and detailing is complete. I used a few parts from the "spares" box; for example, the small knobs are 1/48th scale machinegun sights. As you can see, I used assorted sizes of copper and plastic rod for the piping.
I need to find a place to buy some 1/72 scale hand wheels as I am out; and the spare parts box will only take one so far. Any suggestions are welcome.
Anyway, I hope a few of you take the time to have a look and, as always, comments, both positive and negative are welcome.
Ernest
Rokket is correct, model railroad brake wheeels should fit your needs. I suggest that you consider buying an assortment in various scales as the control wheels on your boat will vary depending on their use. Both Walthers and Modeltrainstuff.com might be good sources.
Don
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Thanks, Don, I couldn't find any locally, thought they'd be handy for hatches.
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Thanks for the well wishes and interest Don and Siara. Well I was going to post the first pictures of the Engine, but it looks like the folder is full. I will post them in the "On the Bench" section of the gallery.
The first picture shows the engine after standard construction, "stock" if you will. The next three show the engine after scratchbuilding and detailing is complete. I used a few parts from the "spares" box; for example, the small knobs are 1/48th scale machinegun sights. As you can see, I used assorted sizes of copper and plastic rod for the piping.
I need to find a place to buy some 1/72 scale hand wheels as I am out; and the spare parts box will only take one so far. Any suggestions are welcome.
Anyway, I hope a few of you take the time to have a look and, as always, comments, both positive and negative are welcome.
Ernest
Rokket is correct, model railroad brake wheeels should fit your needs. I suggest that you consider buying an assortment in various scales as the control wheels on your boat will vary depending on their use. Both Walthers and Modeltrainstuff.com might be good sources.
Don
Thank you Don, I will order a few different sizes.
Ernest
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Today's update:
I finished the engine assembly, The hull wall detail and a few small sratch builds today. The two engine pictures show a bit of scratchbuilding. Overall I am pleased with the results.
I added detail to the hull wall using a variety of parts and pieces from the spare parts box. I wanted to add more but due to the very restricted space when the major components are assembled that was just not possible. The engine is a VERY tight fit, and I am going to have my work cut out maneuvering it into position without breaking anything. Alot of the work looks a bit rough right now, but some painting will bring it to life.
The two detail shots, poor as they are, are of the manometer board that I scratch built; right after a sealing coat of future was applied. We'll see how it looks once a put some flat gloss on it. I cut a piece from an old 1/48th Bf110 instrument panel for the board and added some spare small decals for the gauges. The red emergency light is one of three I made using some domed pieces from a clear styrene tree. I painted them with one thin coat of Lifecolor red. The bracing is tamiya tape crossed, cut and painted.
Altogether I have about 14 hours invested in this build so far; good thing I'm on vacation. Having to fashion reasonably, and that word is in the eye of the beholder, accurate parts from scratch and having to refer to pictures and drawings 5000 times to get the dimensions and part shapes close is taking alot of time. The only other time I have fashioned so much from sratch was when I built the truely horrid Hobbycraft Do17Z2. Then I built the entire cockpit, to include structural members; a project that saw that model come close to beings launched at terminal velocity more then once! :) Fortunately, this build is going much smoother.
Enjoy the photos,
Ernest
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Hi Ernest!
You know this page?
http://www.dargies.de/Modellbau/u564.html
It is very interesting
Cheers!
Javier
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Hi Javier, yep I know the page. Frank is a fairly well know modeller in the IPMS community in Germany. And as the website shows, he is pretty talented.
All the best,
Ernest
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The engine room is ready for priming. I did not do much detailing of the bulkheads as I think they will look fine when assembled and painted. For those of you who are considering building this kit, test fitting is critical. I found out that the center walkway, the piece in the lower center of the picture is too long. Because of all the detail at the bow end of the piece, I cut off a couple of mm's from the stern end. Also, the step that the walkway sets on, on the stern bulkhead is too high, making the walkway slant way too much. I shaved off a couple of mm's on the step to ensure the walkway is level.
I plan to prime the parts using Tamiya white primer that I decanted for airbrush use. The interior colors will be painted using Lifecolor paints:
Lower hull RAL 9002 Greywhite(LC UA023 is a good match), Upper hull RAL 9001 an ivory white(a mix of 85% LC01 and 15% LC04 gives a good match). I will also use a variety of grey tones for various details. The metal parts will be painted with Model Master Metalizer paints.
We'll see how it turns out!
Ernest
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Looking very, very good
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Looking very, very good
Thanks Wink!
Ernest
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Finished general and detail painting today. I'll let the paint cure till tomorrow afternoon then seal it with future. The next step will be weathering. I got lucky while priming as the Tamiya white primer, when sprayed over the yellowish resin parts was a very close match for RAL 9001; saved a step there. As with most military paint schemes there is not alot of variety in colors and the colors are muted.
At any rate the build is progressing nicely. Enjoy the pictures!
Ernest
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rokket, you ask "why don't wives understand?"
I can't answer the 'why', but I can give you a prime example.
A couple of years ago, a friend at my yacht club wanted me to build a model of her husband's tank for her to give to him as a Christmas gift. He'd been a tank commander of a British Centurian Mk 5 back in the 60's in Europe.
My wife got upset with me spending so much time and money building the tank. She kept on asking me, and couldn't figure out why, I didn't just patch up and old 1:35 remote control German, 1943 vintage, Pkfw IV Aus G that had been kicking around the house for several decades. In her mind, it was already built and just needed some minor repairs, and it was a tank, so......
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..Wives, yes, bless thier hearts! The main interest especially at Christmas would be..What size bow are you going to put on the tank to make it look right under the tree?
Bill
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Don't you think a tank with a bow around the barrel looks sort of...well...odd?
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Ernest- good show my friend. Im only glad i didnt have the same inspiration, and cut open the hull- it could have taken me to retirement. :D
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Ernest- good show my friend. Im only glad i didnt have the same inspiration, and cut open the hull- it could have taken me to retirement. :D
Thanks my friend! We shall see how much I sweat when it comes time to cut up the hull. The engine room is actually a pretty simple construction compared to some of the stuff you and I have done. I am sure you could bring it off without any trouble at all. By the way, how is your 1/35 scale project coming along?
Ernest
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I hear what everyone is saying regarding our wive's understanding of our hobby. ;) To be honest though, my wife has many other talents that allow me to gladly overlook her blindspot when it comes to my modelling.
Ernest
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Sounds exciting! (Why donn't wives understand?...)
Wow! This question could spawn a dissertation for a master's thesis.
My take, for what it's worth, is that I think many women see military models as weapons of destruction, (Which they are, of course.) rather than as visual historical symbols and/or objects that have an aesthetic quality quit apart from their original use. Is there anything more sculptural than a Luger, for example? Or a U-Boat? (Almost forgot what Forum I was on for a minute. The plus to having a bad memory is that you can hide your own Easter eggs.) Perhaps the potential for destruction embodied in a military model goes against their nurturing nature.
In defense of the fair sex I might add here that my girlfriend took an active interest in my build of the Kruppwerkes diorama (All three years of it) and was supportive enough to keep me going when I was ready to take a rather large mallet to it. I would only add to that that at the IPMS National competition last year the model got a lot of attention from the distaff side.
Maybe if we didn't bore them to tears with endless talk of details -and perhaps took an active interest in their hobbies- we might yet prevail?
(I'll believe it if you will.)
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Maybe if we didn't bore them to tears with endless talk of details -and perhaps took an active interest in their hobbies- we might yet prevail?
(I'll believe it if you will.)
You could be right... IMO i don
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Well guys, I have an update today, the weathering, which consisted of a wash and some drybrushing is complete. Unfortunately the weathering does not show up well on the photos. One of these days I am going to have to buy a better camera, build a photo setup and practice taking pictures! Anyway, I used a medium to dark brown sludge wash on everything but the engine. On it, I used a black wash. After washing, I did a very little bit of drybrushing to bring out a bit of detail. Again the pictures are not that good so bear with me here!
Ernest
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Except for some cleaning up around the keel area, the engine room is finished. Following are a few notesfor anyone who may be planning to build this kit. It is very important to test fit everything frequently as clearances are very very close. If you are planning on adding any detail be aware that the close fit will not allow you to position some of the items found in the real uboot in their actual location; in some cases you will not be able to place additional detail because it will not fit. In order to place the center walkway fairly close to its actual location you are going to have to do some cutting and sanding. About 2mm need to be removed from the stern end of the walkway, and about 1mm needs to be shaved off the joining location on the stern bulkhead. Also, the engine supports have to be sanded off and a new support made for the walkway that allows you to position it at the correct height while at the same time ensuring that 1) the engine does not set too high and 2) the keel and bulkheads matchup at the bottom. Naturally it is best to do this early in the build, which I did not do. As a result a really sweat it out getting everything sanded and lined up without damaging too much of the paintjob. I got it too work, though more than a few naughty words were spoken! ;D
Overall it turned out pretty decent. I plan to start the galley/petty officers quarters soon, probably tomorrow. Enjoy the pictures!
Ernest
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Ready to begin construction of the galley/PO quarters. As the picture shows there are several pieces, but no tiny ones as with the engine. Some of the resin parts have minor warping which should be easy to correct. A foresee two major challenges with this build. First, the instructions are not very clear as to how the bulkheads, floor and rear wall are supposed to fit. Looks like I'm going to be doing alot of test fitting once the parts are seperated from their resin blocks to make sure I assemble everything correctly.
More challenging is the fact that there is no sink, toilet or electrical box for the batteries. I'm going to have to either find a 1/72 sink and toilet (doubtful) or make my own (probable). The sink should not be terribly hard to fashion; the toilet is likely to cause much muttering under the breath however. I should be a able to build an electrical box that is reasonably accurate out of spare parts and copper wire. I will also have to build the water pipes and faucets for the sink. (Pipes=no major sweat) (faucets=we shall see).
The petty officers quarters are pretty complete as they are. The only thing I think I have to scratch build is the overhead ventilation piping. Shouldn't be hard. To simulate the wood I plan to use the same technique I use to simulate plain wood on WWI aircraft. I'll paint the part a medium tan color. Once dry I'll brush a mix of burnt sienna, yellow ochre and umber artist oils over the tan base to simulate wood grain.
Should be exciting, stay tuned! ;)
Ernest
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Sometimes the moon and stars align and something I am scratchbuilding turns out right the first time. I spent a couple of hours making the sink last night. After alot of referring to photos and measuring, I shaped a piece of scrap resin to resemble the sink unit. I then used my dremel tool with a small router head and routed out the sink, finishing it with a drilled drain hole. The cabinet doors are thin Evergreen plastic and the knobs and hinges are small pieces of PE.
Enjoy the photos,
Ernest
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Nice looking work, Ernest.. I have seen on another thread (Don't recall which one) that galley sinks had three faucets.. Not only "hot" and "cold" but also a third for "sea water". Wish I could recall where I saw but doe's it sound familiar to you? I'll look around at past postings. Hope this helps..
Cheers/ Regards, Bill
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Thank you for the compliment Bill! I have a couple of photos from the sink in U995. It has three faucets, and the connection for a fourth. And based on the writing above the faucet connections I am sure uboat sinks had four faucets. Frank Dargie made 3 faucets for his interior build. I am planning on trying to fit 4 faucets; however space may only allow for 3 in the model. I need to contact Frank and see if that was the case with his build; might save me some time and frustration. If you can find the photo, I will be very glad to use it though!
Ernest
Nice looking work, Ernest.. I have seen on another thread (Don't recall which one) that galley sinks had three faucets.. Not only "hot" and "cold" but also a third for "sea water". Wish I could recall where I saw but doe's it sound familiar to you? I'll look around at past postings. Hope this helps..
Cheers/ Regards, Bill
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If I remember correctly from my research there was no hot water but it was 'grey water'
Here are the four labels
Waschwasser = Washing water
Gefiltertes trinkwasser = Filtered drinking water
Seewasser warm = Sea water warmly
Trinkwasser = Drinking water
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Ernest..Frank Dargies build was the one I was trying to recall. The only other one I was thinking off was Johann Vilthomsen. I believe he had done extensive internal work. I looked at a previous posting on this forum but the pictures don't seem to be available..
Bill
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Exactly correct Simon. As I told Bill, I am going to try and fit 4 faucets. We shall see if that works out. Thank you for the info.
Ernest
If I remember correctly from my research there was no hot water but it was 'grey water'
Here are the four labels
Waschwasser = Washing water
Gefiltertes trinkwasser = Filtered drinking water
Seewasser warm = Sea water warmly
Trinkwasser = Drinking water
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No sweat Bill, I have quite a few reference photos. Frank Dargies' build is pretty sweet isn't it? I have not seen Johann's yet.
Ernest
Ernest..Frank Dargies build was the one I was trying to recall. The only other one I was thinking off was Johann Vilthomsen. I believe he had done extensive internal work. I looked at a previous posting on this forum but the pictures don't seem to be available..
Bill
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Today's progress:
Pictures 1&2 show the toilet I scratchbuilt and the electrical box I made from spare parts. The moon and stars were not aligned this time as it took me three trys to get a halfway decent looking toilet.
Picture 3 shows the extra detail I put on the stove. The two small handles were a challenge, but I finally got them right.
The last picture is a shot of general construction. For those of you planning on building this model, be prepared to do alot of measuring, cutting and sanding. It took me a while to figure out how everything fits together as the instructions are less then clear. The floor had a good bit of warpage which I corrected by putting it in very hot water for 15 or so seconds, taking it out and correcting the warp and finally dunking it in cold water to "set" the piece. The back wall has to be shortnened in length by about 3mm to get a correct fit of the bulkheads and the curved hul piece that forms the top. I am still going to have to do a bit of sanding to get everything together correctly, but the worst is past.
Ernest
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well begun!
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Spent the day working on plumbing and electrical lines. The first photo shows the toilet with a bit of plumbing. I decided on a minimalist approach here as the room will be packed with supplies. I wanted to show the flushing handle, but it is installed on the starboard wall and I could not figure out how to get around the lack of one.
Picture 2 is the electrical box for the battery. Some judicious use of spare parts and copper wire makes for a pretty convincing fake.
Picture 3 shows the sink with plumbing. I did manage to fit 4 faucets, the spigots were the most painful part to make. They are oversized as the first ones that I installed, which were very close to scale, could not be seen with the naked eye, at least my naked eye that is. I scratchbuilt a few parts then used a combination of copper wire and soldering wire for the lines. I was not able to install all the lines due to lack of space. The postside wall has a couple of electrical lines installed, more work to be done there tomorrow. I know the picture is not the best and I will make a better one later. Overall I am pleased with the effect.
Ernest
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That sink looks AWESOM! nice plumbing (I never thought I'd get so excited about plumbing!). I think the minimalist is a good idea, you are suggesting, you just need enough to make it look good, and the supplies will help a lot. Very nice!
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Impressive detail study Ernest.
I love such work.
Check Your PM folder. ;)
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Not much to report on the build today. I did alot of sanding and a little construction, which is not worth pictures. However, I also buckled down and worked on taking better pictures. I still have alot to learn but have improved a bit. Attached is a retake of the sink. It looks alot better then the one from yesterday, though I still have to work on getting the blue tint corrected.
Ernest
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Superb work! I almost expect to see water dripping from those taps!
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You COULD do drips with clear resin! hmmm...
There are a lot of free photo editing programs out there, even simple ones will let you color correct. The orange you were getting in the other shots is from the incandescent lights, and the blue from daylight/flash. A tiny col balance and desaturation of offending colors and you're back on track. This new pic looks nice and clear tho, well done! Are you going to put a crewman in there washing up, would be very nice action (despite it not being very physical).
Here's a quick and dirty col correction:
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Bill, thank you for the kind comment. Rokket, thank you for the tips. I DL'ed a photo editor and I am learning how to use both it and some of the advanced features of my camera. The below photos are improved, but I still have a ways to go.
General construction is finished and the parts are ready for priming. The first shows the remainder of the lines I ran on the portside wall. The next is the U-Off quarters floor showing the floor plates for the tables that I scratchbuilt. The rough looking round objects will hold the table pedestal round; once constrcution is finished they will not be seen. The scratchbuilt tables are next. Finally for this post, the forward bulkhead is shown. I did not do much detailing here as the part is pretty accurate. The instructions call for a handwheel that did not exist in the real Type VII's so I left it off. Part 2 follows in the next post.
Ernest
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And on to part 2! The aft bulkhead is the first picture. I did a bit of modifying to the part. I have only ever seen the hood above the stove in U995. None of the other pictures I have seen of uboats have one. I took it off, along with some electrical line that led to nowhere and a rectangular box that I also have never seen in pictures. I then scratchbuilt the handwheel post, light bracket and some electrical line along with a small junction box. Pic two is the batteries, nothing special to see here. The last picture is the hull top. I don't have alot of refernence photos, but those I do have son't show alot of stuff so I opted to make a couple of electrical lines for the lights, which will go where the two pencil dots area.
Ernest
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Much, much better pictures now.
Good progress.
Watching.... ;)
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Ernest, I have never given the hood any thought :( I started to look at my pictures of galleys and you are right it seen that only U-995 has one. I have only one picture of the galley of U-995 (taken during WWII) but I can not tell from it, if there is a hood in the galley. Do you think the Royal Norwegian Navy added the hood?
And on to part 2! The aft bulkhead is the first picture. I did a bit of modifying to the part. I have only ever seen the hood above the stove in U995. None of the other pictures I have seen of uboats have one.....
Ernest
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Bill, thank you for the kind comment. Rokket, thank you for the tips. I DL'ed a photo editor and I am learning how to use both it and some of the advanced features of my camera. The below photos are improved, but I still have a ways to go.
General construction is finished and the parts are ready for priming. The first shows the remainder of the lines I ran on the portside wall. The next is the U-Off quarters floor showing the floor plates for the tables that I scratchbuilt. The rough looking round objects will hold the table pedestal round; once constrcution is finished they will not be seen. The scratchbuilt tables are next. Finally for this post, the forward bulkhead is shown. I did not do much detailing here as the part is pretty accurate. The instructions call for a handwheel that did not exist in the real Type VII's so I left it off. Part 2 follows in the next post.
Ernest
I was puzzled how Nazis German could get a can of coke! ???
Then I noticed that it was on the background, not part of the diorama. ;D
Excellent piece of work, Ernest.
KK
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Thanks buddy!
Ernest
Bill, thank you for the kind comment. Rokket, thank you for the tips. I DL'ed a photo editor and I am learning how to use both it and some of the advanced features of my camera. The below photos are improved, but I still have a ways to go.
General construction is finished and the parts are ready for priming. The first shows the remainder of the lines I ran on the portside wall. The next is the U-Off quarters floor showing the floor plates for the tables that I scratchbuilt. The rough looking round objects will hold the table pedestal round; once constrcution is finished they will not be seen. The scratchbuilt tables are next. Finally for this post, the forward bulkhead is shown. I did not do much detailing here as the part is pretty accurate. The instructions call for a handwheel that did not exist in the real Type VII's so I left it off. Part 2 follows in the next post.
Ernest
I was puzzled how Nazis German could get a can of coke! ???
Then I noticed that it was on the background, not part of the diorama. ;D
Excellent piece of work, Ernest.
KK
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Photos and build looking great!
Coke and Germany -I don't have all the details, but I'm pretty sure Coke had a plant in Germany and was a 1936 Olympics sponsor. There's a tale that the German head ran out of supplies and created what he could, calling it Fanta. Could be full of holes story, but I think it's safe to say Coke was in Europe in the 40s.
Of course it would have been a bottle, maybe that was the joke and I didn't get it!
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Photos and build looking great!
Coke and Germany -I don't have all the details, but I'm pretty sure Coke had a plant in Germany and was a 1936 Olympics sponsor. There's a tale that the German head ran out of supplies and created what he could, calling it Fanta. Could be full of holes story, but I think it's safe to say Coke was in Europe in the 40s.
Of course it would have been a bottle, maybe that was the joke and I didn't get it!
Thanks for the interesting input.
I also heard that Coca Cola signed a contract with the military during WWII that they guaranteed supply of coke to all parts of the world where there were American troops.
KK
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Regarding Coca Cola and enemy troops, here's an article that might prove interesting. (A different sort of a diorama topic for aircraft modellers too).
http://xroads.virginia.edu/~CLASS/coke/coke2.html (http://xroads.virginia.edu/~CLASS/coke/coke2.html)
And yes, it DOES say that Fanta was invented in Germany by Max Keith who got himself "appointed to the Office of Enemy Property to supervise all soft drink plants, both in Germany and the captured teritory".
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I think Keith is praised by Coke for not becomign a Nazi or stealing the new drink for himself...?
KK - just read too that same thing, something like "American troops must be able to buy coke anywhere we are for no more than 5 cents!" think it was a Coke President. Found a list of slogans through the years of WWII:
1939
Coca-Cola goes along
Make lunch time refreshment time
Makes travel more pleasan
The drink everybody knows
Thirst stops here
1940
Bring in your thirst and go away without it
The package that gets a welcome at home
Try it just once and you will know why
1941
A stop that belongs on your daily timetable
Completely refreshing
1942
The only thing like Coca-Cola is Coca-Cola itself
Refreshment that can't be duplicated
Wherever you are, whatever you do, wherever you may be, when you think refreshment, think ice-cold Coca-Cola
1943 That extra something
A taste all its own
The only thing like Coca-Cola is Coca-Cola itself
It's the real thing
1944
How about a Coke
High sign of friendship
A moment on the sunnyside
1945
Whenever you hear "Have a Coke," you hear the voice of America
Passport to refreshment
Happy moment of hospitality
Coke means Coca-Cola
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Standing by for next build/pic installment...with a can of coke
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Not much to report on the build. I primed everything and sprayed the batteries with Tamiya Nato Black. Pretty mundane stuff, not worth pictures. I'll post some photos once painting and weathering are complete.
Ernest
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General and detail painting complete part 1:
As the title said I am "mostly" finished painting. The shots show the model before the gloss coat and weathering.
Photo 1 is of the battery, not much of interest to see. Photo 2 shows the forward bulkhead, again nothing special to see. Photo 3 is the aft bulkhead. The stove turned out well, it gets its own detail shot in photo 4. The final photo in part one shows the painted hull roof. I opted to not do much detail painting. As you will see in part two, the PO quarters wood paneling is rather dark. I decided to leave the top as light as possible for brightness.
Enjoy,
Ernest
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Painting Complete Part Two:
Photo 1 shows the Galley, with focus on the sink. The picture does not show it well, but the sink is painted a stainless steel color; just like the stovetop. Photos 2 is a closeup of the sink. Photo 3 is the PO quarters. After priming I sprayed the wood areas with a sand colored paint. After it had cured overnight I brush painted those areas with a mix of raw umber, burnt sienna and yellow ochre to simulate wood grain. I like the somewhat warm character it gives the wood areas. The last picture is a close up of one of the tables I scratch built after painting it using the same process as above. I have already applied a coat of gloss (future). Though the wood grain effect is not as good in 1/72 scale as 1/48 or 1/35, it is still pretty convincing. Overall I am pleased thus far.
Ernest
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Final update for today. The two photos show a curtain I made out of very thin tissue paper and thin copper wire made into hoops. I stiffened the tissue with a thin coat of white glue and shaped it pnce the glue was dry. I then inserted the copper hoops and hung it on a piece of evergreen rod painted aluminum. The curtain is only provisionally placed. To be honest I am not sure if I am going to use it. I worked pretty hard to get the right color tone for the simulated wood and one part of me says it would be ashamed to hide almost half of it. The part says, "Dude the curtain looks pretty sweet. It would add life to the room.
What do you guys think? Curtain or no curtain?
Ernest
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I like the curtain, but could you reposition it so that it is open more? Maybe about 3/4 open so most of the wood detail is visible along with the curtain effect. Of course, this probably involves a lot more work for you!
Either way you go it is coming along very nicely.
Bill
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Hi, Ernest
I like the curtain too.
The whole diorama looks good with the curtain.
Maybe, as Bill said, you can leave it 3/4 open to display the interior details.
KK
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Yes for the curtain. I like them!! I think I will made curtains to my drawing now :)
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Curtain, and all of it, EXCELLENT!
Can I suggest a wash of grime in the nooks and crannies, and a grease-stained grubby hand print here and there?
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Thanks for the comments guys. Thus far it is 4-0 for keeping the curtain. I will experiment with finding a way to show it partly open. I did not mention in my original post that I had made two curtains, as that is the general arrangment on the real thing. The left hand curtain was to be pulled all the way to the side. Unfortunately, I could not figure out a way to fold it without destroying it, which sadly was its fate. By the way, the tissue I am using is the kind you find in gift boxes which contain clothes. It is very thin, and has a good deal of strength. I use it from time to time to simulate seat fabric in 1/48 scale aircraft.
Wink, I will be spraying the gloss coat on the parts today. Tomorrow they will get their weathering. I won't be modeling tonight and Sunday night; the NFL Divisional Playoffs are this weekend, and I have to support my Colts! ;D
Ernest
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I think you SHOULD have a curtain in. It
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Good stuff Pat. Really like the tissue method.
I don't know how it would go, but the flag process we use at AMP makes very "pose-able" cloth! The cotton is coated, giving it a bit of stiffness,so you can shape it as needed. happy to send you some Ernest.
The wood veneer is excelent, but you can alos print a photo of wood out on a hi-res inkjet or better, go to a copy shop and have it printed on color laser, usually a shiny silk-paper, every easy to glue and work.
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Hi Pat and Wink, thanks a bunch for the suggestions. Pat, I'm going to try using your technique to get a better curtain, wish me luck!
Wink, I did consider using AMP's flag material. I have two flags still, but I did not want to ruin them to make a curtain. It is very generous of you to offer to send me some material. If I can't get Pat's technique to work for me, I will gladly accepts the offer. I will pay the postal fees.
Ernest
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Interesting idea about printing out the wood on paper rokket. I'd never thought of that but in many applications, especially ones with very tiny places to put it, that sounds like an excellent solution.
I'd still prefer real wood (and this hobby veneer is SO much thinner than normal veneer) for things like a U-boat deck, because it can be stained or even painted and the grain will still show though.
For an unpainted surface, like inside Greif's cabins, the printed version would be much more appropriate.
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Weathering and the flat coat is complete. I used a brown wash for most of the weathering effects. I did not want to overdo it as my guess is the galley and living qtrs would have been kept fairly clean. I did some minor dry brushing of the wood areas to give it slightly better depth. The first shot is of the batteries, like the last photos it is nothing special.
The aft bulkhead is next, followed by the forward bulkhead and hull top. The only changes are the addition of a small hand wheel on the top and lights on both the top and over the stove. The galley follows and again the only addition is a light above the sink. I opted to crack the door open as fully open it hides the sink completely.
The final photo is the PO qtrs. I have placed some bed rolls and one table in addition to the weathering. The final table will be placed once the figures are installed. I left the wood areas glossy to simulate varnish. I am still working on the curtain, no pictures as yet because it is not quite ready for "prime time".
Ernest
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Nice, not overdone.
Pat, I agree with you about real wood best for so much. I'd love to hear (and see) more about your decking, and maybe some pix of those sailing ships! Inspire us!
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Construction has begun, and it has been anything but smooth. The first picture is the curtains I made. The left side is not glued as I have to wait until I install the top because I will have to move the curtain rod slightly to the side to tilt the top into place, then reposition the rod to its correct location. Glad I checked the fit before gluing.
The next three pictures were taken after the bulkheads were assembled. The PO quarters looks pretty good. I,m going to leave the hull top off until I install the figures and final table. I have placed the supplies in the WC in the next picture. I opted not to load the room to the gills as it would block the view behind. Unsurprisingly prehaps, the hardest part of that little job was figuring out where to place the supplies so they fit. The final shot is an overhead. You get a good feel for how tight space is in the build.
There is no picture of the battery compartment. When I placed it for gluing I had my "WTF?!" moment for the build, immediately followed by the thought, "NASA we have a problem." It turns out the keel is 3.05 mm too short. "Maybe I didn't get the bulkheads squared right.", I think. Out comes the trusty micrometer. The difference of the distance between the top of the bulkheads and the bottoms is a whopping .204mm. Out of square is not the problem. Of course I was not smart enough to do the above measuring BEFORE painting, weathering, etc! Looks like I'm going to be doing a bit more scratchbuilding.
Enjoy the photos,
Ernest
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Ernest- it looks the biz.
More dirt, grime, and soot!
;D
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Thanks man! I fixed the battery compartment and will post a picture later.
Ernest
Ernest- it looks the biz.
More dirt, grime, and soot!
;D
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Hi guys, its been a few days since my last post. I was unable to crash dive in time to avoid a "Honey Do" ASW Task Force, so was busy doing the spouse's bidding for a bit. I am finished with the Galley/U-Off Qtrs, and the figures for it. I will post a few pictures once the upload folder is expanded enough to add photos. I'll be taking a short break from this project to build Eduard's DVa in 1/48 scale. For those of you who are interested I will be doing a build report in the "Luftwaffe" section.
Ernest
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Hello Ernest,
No escape from the "Minister of the Interior", best just to accept your fate and comply with her demands. Actually, I have no complaints - approaching 26th anniversary and things just keep getting better!
Cheers,
Bill
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Hi Bill, I'm thankfully in the same boat as you. We're I few years behind, this year will be number 22 for my bride and I; and those years have be great!
Ernest
Hello Ernest,
No escape from the "Minister of the Interior", best just to accept your fate and comply with her demands. Actually, I have no complaints - approaching 26th anniversary and things just keep getting better!
Cheers,
Bill
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STILL, any problems with having a weekend harem instead? Do as you wish M-F, fun on weekend, repeat...Sooo many advantages...
If I combine this with my time machine, all should be well!
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..Lets hear it for the harem....
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Hi guys, following are the pictures I promised. The first shot shows the Engine Room with figures. The second shows the curtains I made, they turned out fairly well. The next three pictures are of the completed Galley/U-Offraum with figures. The 3.05mm addition I had to make to the keel because it was too short turned out very well and is impossible to see. I am pretty pleased with the end result overall, though I wish one could see more of the sink I worked so hard to scratchbuild.
Enjoy,
Ernest
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Beautiful work Greif!!!
Sorry I've been gone so long. My computer crashed again and has been in the shop several times in the past couple of weeks. Makes it difficult to keep up with things. Using a library computer, I couldn't even get into the site to post.
Anyway, one tiny suggestion.
In the pic with the curtain, I see a row of drawer fronts under the top bunk. In real boats, there has to be some sort of method to stop the drawers from sliding out and dumping themselves and their contents on the deck when the boat rolls in heavy seas.
They might have used keys, but I sort of doubt it since that would make them difficult to open if the lights were malfunctioning, so the two most likely methods are to have a lip on the track that the drawer had to be lifted over, or they'd have an inside catch that was released by sticking your finger through a hole and pulling on a spring-loaded catch.
I'd vote for the hole in the drawer since that one is almost foolproof and won't release even under a strong shock (like a depth charge going off nearby). That's also the most common method still used today in most boats that I've been on.
It also means that you don't have to have any sort of handle on the outside to pull the drawers open with, which would just be something else to catch an elbow or loose clothing on.
Simple to make. Just drill a finger-sized hole in the middle of each drawer near the top.
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They might have used keys, but I sort of doubt it since that would make them difficult to open if the lights were malfunctioning, so the two most likely methods are to have a lip on the track that the drawer had to be lifted over, or they'd have an inside catch that was released by sticking your finger through a hole and pulling on a spring-loaded catch.
I'd vote for the hole in the drawer since that one is almost foolproof and won't release even under a strong shock (like a depth charge going off nearby). That's also the most common method still used today in most boats that I've been on.
It also means that you don't have to have any sort of handle on the outside to pull the drawers open with, which would just be something else to catch an elbow or loose clothing on.
Simple to make. Just drill a finger-sized hole in the middle of each drawer near the top.
In U-995 they used small keys :)
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Really good stuff, excellent!
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Beautiful work Greif!!!
Sorry I've been gone so long. My computer crashed again and has been in the shop several times in the past couple of weeks. Makes it difficult to keep up with things. Using a library computer, I couldn't even get into the site to post.
Anyway, one tiny suggestion.
In the pic with the curtain, I see a row of drawer fronts under the top bunk. In real boats, there has to be some sort of method to stop the drawers from sliding out and dumping themselves and their contents on the deck when the boat rolls in heavy seas.
They might have used keys, but I sort of doubt it since that would make them difficult to open if the lights were malfunctioning, so the two most likely methods are to have a lip on the track that the drawer had to be lifted over, or they'd have an inside catch that was released by sticking your finger through a hole and pulling on a spring-loaded catch.
I'd vote for the hole in the drawer since that one is almost foolproof and won't release even under a strong shock (like a depth charge going off nearby). That's also the most common method still used today in most boats that I've been on.
It also means that you don't have to have any sort of handle on the outside to pull the drawers open with, which would just be something else to catch an elbow or loose clothing on.
Simple to make. Just drill a finger-sized hole in the middle of each drawer near the top.
I found this in the Design Study of Former German Submarine - Type IXC Report 2G-9C. I know its for a Type IX but I imagine it very similar to the Type VIIC’s
Crew's quarters were located in the forward and after torpedo rooms. In the forward torpedo room there were ten folding berths and 28 lockers. In the after torpedo room were eight folding berths and eighteen lockers. A table is shown on the plans, for each torpedo room, but none has been found on any vessel. All joiner work was of wood, and all lockers of every type were locked by means of bitt keys.
http://www.uboatarchive.net/DesignStudiesTypeIXC.htm (http://www.uboatarchive.net/DesignStudiesTypeIXC.htm)
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Hi Simon, thank you for the information. It will come in handy when I start work on the Forward Torpedo Room.
Ernest
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Hi all!
This is my first post in this forum. I
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Crew's quarters were located in the forward and after torpedo rooms. In the forward torpedo room there were ten folding berths and 28 lockers. In the after torpedo room were eight folding berths and eighteen lockers. A table is shown on the plans, for each torpedo room, but none has been found on any vessel. All joiner work was of wood, and all lockers of every type were locked by means of bitt keys.
Hi guys,
Again I have photos only from Vesikko / Type II.
I hope these are anyhow interesting ones.
I guess the lockers in Type VII were basically similar.
Hera is two photos of wooden lockers of Vesikko.
The first one is from bow officers / ratings quarters.
Lockers for crew are painted with white; lockers for officers have teak coating.
The second one is taken from stern ratings quarters.
The table of Vesikko still exists.
Timo
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Here is one image more from Vesikko stern ratings quarters.
This is the same locker but door closed.
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Thank you for the kind comments. I am sure your work will be just as nice!
Ernest
Hi all!
This is my first post in this forum. I
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Thanks for the photos Timo. They will come in handy when I build the Forward Torpedo Room.
Ernest
Here is one image more from Vesikko stern ratings quarters.
This is the same locker but door closed.
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Interesting stuff
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Greif, amazing work. I love it ! I'm staying tuned ;)
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Admiring your work Grief. Hope you are well.