U-3 - 1938 Configuration

[Greif]

I have started my next build.  It will be displayed in a prewar harbor setting, loading supplies and torpedos.

I have taken a few photos and posted them in the "On the Bench" section of the gallery.

The Hull:The only change to the hull is the use of the Nautilus deck.  You can see that I have cut out areas for the torpedo loading bay and the rear hatch.  Due to the size of the Type II's, torpedos were loaded tail first in the opposite direction that other u-boats loaded.  The part is from the CMK Torpedo Loading Kit.  The "pressure hull" beneath the rear hatch is a piece of Evergreen sheet, with a hole cut out and topped by a piece of circular plastic.

The Conning Tower:  I added a bit of detail to the Conning Tower.  Most of the PE Parts are left overs from an Eduard Type VII Detail set.  The copper wire replaces the kit railing which was either plastic or flat PE.  The small 1/4 round pieces of copper wire on each side of the read conning tower floor were added.  I also scratch-built a foghorn and installed it to the front of the Conning Tower.

Hope you enjoy the pictures!

Ernest   

[Siara]

Lovely job Ernest. Conning tower railings look superb.

[Mr.Mox]

Very nice work so far, the rail looks super and is much better than the kit parts. Your hull work is allso spot on, good idea doing a loading scene!

Keep em comming

Cheers/Jan

[Greif]

Thank you for the kind comments guys!

Well after much consideration I have decided to cut the hull down to waterline level.  I'll be doing that tonight after work (i'm already getting sweat on the forehead thinking about the job!).  I think I'll use artist's paper, painted with acrylic paints attached to a hardwood base to simulate the water surface.  The texture of the paper looks like it will replicate the rippled nature of calm harbor water nicely.

I plan to pour 1mm layers of thinned acrylic gel to a depth of 3mm to give the water sheen and depth.  I'm still debating whether to tint the first and second layers. 

The base dimensions will be 55cm by 20cm, which should give the diorama a nice compact appearence without being cramped.  I'm using Artmaster's Kaimauer sets for the pier. I hope the other half of my order arrives soon! 

This being my first attempt at simulating water I am open to ideas and/or tips.  If you guys have any suggestions please feel free to give them, I'm all ears!

Ernest   

[Mr.Mox]

Good luck buddy - you are gonna need it 

Anyway, remember that acryllic gel shrinks while drying up - so it can leave a clear film on the lower part of the hull if the layers ain

[Greif]

Well guys, I just finished cutting the hull down to the waterline level.  Whew!!!!  It turned out pretty well, I'll post pictures later.  I'm going to have to modify my plans for the base however.  The hull does not sit perfectly flat; there is a small gap for a few cms on either side of the hull center.  Therefore the artist's paper idea is out.

Plan B is to still use a hardwood base; and after measuring some more the base will be 60cm by 10cm.  I will make a .5cm high frame using basewood and fill the inner area with moltofil and slightly sink the hull into it.  I then plan to hand paint the base the same colors as Plan A.  Jan you are right about the depth of the acrylic gel needing to be only 1mm.

As an aside, if you thought the Type II was small as a full hull model, it looks really small as a waterline model!

Ernest

[Greif]

Well I have made a bit of progress.  I spent yesterday cleaning up flash and seams on several small parts.  Not the most exciting thing in the world as all of you know, so I'll spare you the boring details about that.

I made a wooden base and have started planning the layout of the diorama.  On the attached pictures you can see that I plan to offset the framing somewhat.  This will serve two purposes.  First it will give a (hopefully) neat asymetric look to the diorama.  Second it allows me to put the brass name plate where everyone can see it! 

I put some of the pier sections behind the model to test the height.  Though the model will be elevated a few mm's when it is set into the motolfil the pier is still too high.  I'll have to cut it down a couple of cm's.

I'm still deciding whether to put a basewood strip on the rear of the base adjunct to the pier, which will be attached to the back of the base.  I'm leaning towards not putting a strip in as the uboat will then be nearer the pier as it would in real life.

As always, comments, suggestions and critisims are welcome.

Ernest


By greif8, shot with DSC-H7 at 2009-02-25

By greif8, shot with DSC-H7 at 2009-02-25
IMG]http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1408/baselayout1.jpg[/IMG]
By greif8, shot with DSC-H7 at 2009-02-25

[bracco_n]

Wonderful! this build is going to be really nice. Are you basing your diorama on a specific photo?

[Siara]

Good start on this one. Would you consider bringing the wall forward a bit, and perhaps making some of the bank showing, with maybe some tracks, and possibly the wooden crane- im sure it would look smashing. I know its lot of work, and expence, but the final result will be worth it in my opinion. Just the thought.

[Greif]

Wonderful! this build is going to be really nice. Are you basing your diorama on a specific photo?

Thank you Bracco!  The diorama is not based on any particuliar photo.  It is based on several different photos I have looked at in both the "Uboot im Focus" magazines and "Vom Original zum Modell".

Ernest

[Greif]

Good start on this one. Would you consider bringing the wall forward a bit, and perhaps making some of the bank showing, with maybe some tracks, and possibly the wooden crane- im sure it would look smashing. I know its lot of work, and expence, but the final result will be worth it in my opinion. Just the thought.

Hi Siara, hopefully further construction will go as well as the start.  I had my heart in my throat the entire time I was cutting the hull in half!  Good suggestions on your part.  I had considered doing the very thing you recommend.  Unfortunately, cabinet space is getting very tight in the room where my models are displayed.  Until a remodel the room - which is my next project once this one is finished - and buy some new glass cabinets there is no place to put a larger diorama.

As an aside, I learned from the "near-death" experience of U228.  Now all my models are under lock and key at all times, even those on display.

Of course there is always another diorama to be built in the future!

Ernest

[Greif]

Short update, I have primed all parts and painted the conning tower, hull, and various other parts Hellgrau 50.  I am using Lifecolor paints.  I also did a tinz bit of scratchbuilding, in the second photo on the railing I constructed two seats.

Overall the build is preceeding slowly.  I am trying out a few ideas for the water.  In the first photo I have placed the hull into a cutout I made from a piece of heat resistent board.  Don't know if I will go this route, but it is worth looking at.

The final two photos show the conning tower and the hull with the conning tower and a couple of other parts placed on the deck.

Enjoy!

[Mr.Mox]

Great work so far - you will be finished soon with that speed

Considering the work you put into it, I would consider Siara

[Siara]

Good progress Ernest!
Type II is great looking sub. Especially waterline conversion like yours. In the future i will make similar dio. Keep it up Ernest!

[Mr.Mox]

heres a approach that might be usefull for the calm waters of a harbour:

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2267

This might allso be useable, but im a bit in doubt if it works on large scale http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2527

aside from that, you can buy glass that has a rippeled surface on one side that migth be usefull.

Cheers/Jan