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Author Topic: U-3 - 1938 Configuration  (Read 16131 times)

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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #15 on: 02 Mar , 2009, 04:49 »
Quote from: Mr.Mox on 02 Mar , 2009, 04:30
heres a approach that might be usefull for the calm waters of a harbour:

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2267

This might allso be useable, but im a bit in doubt if it works on large scale http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2527

aside from that, you can buy glass that has a rippeled surface on one side that migth be usefull.

Cheers/Jan

Hi Jan, I am definitely leaning towards technique 1 above, modified slightly.  I will use the heat resistance cork? board shown in the second picture of my latest post to bring the hull to the correct depth.  After I have that setup I plan to use Pete's technique with the artist's paper to simulate the water, then I'll place the hull into it's location.  Any gaps around the hull will be filled with motolfil from the tube, blended into the surrounding area and painted. 

I'm still deciding whether to use acrylic gel for a top coat to provide sheen or use future floor wax.  I plan to test both methods to see which works the best.

Sincerely,
Ernest
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #16 on: 04 Mar , 2009, 00:26 »
Hi guys, I'll have a modeling slowdown for the next few days while a repaint and refloor our hobby room.  One must keep the spouse happy in the pursuit of wedded bless after all! ;D

Ernest
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #17 on: 13 Mar , 2009, 01:32 »
Well I have finally completed the big "honey do" project of renovating one of the rooms in our house.  I plan to continue work on my Type II diorama this weekend so I should have something to offer the group.

Ernest
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #18 on: 26 Oct , 2009, 07:37 »
Well guys, the road cycling racing season ended this past Saturday; so it is back to model building for the next several months.  I have had my U-3 project in storage while the racing, and general cycling, season was open.  I will be pulling it out tonight and start up work on it.  Look for some new updates over the coming weeks.  It is good to be back!

Greif
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Offline NZSnowman

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #19 on: 26 Oct , 2009, 11:53 »
Hi Greif. I know how you feel about coming back to a project after a long time from it :) I have just started again on my project after the winter down here in New Zealand. I work as an avalanche forecast on a ski area and can only work on my project in the summer months.
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Offline Rokket

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #20 on: 27 Oct , 2009, 05:13 »
Sometimes the pause helps, really! (I remember a few computer games that were nothing but torture, but ater a 30 day pause were conquered! And contact eneses and a couple model solutions...)

And SO right about wedded bliss. Maybe its not so much about BLIS, but about not being tortured... ;D
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #21 on: 27 Oct , 2009, 12:10 »
First update of the new modelling season for me.

I have attached, at least I hope they work, two shots of U3 after the hull has been cut down and set on a base I made.  This was done a few days ago.  My plan is to use plaster to set the model in, paint the plaster a bluish/greyish/greenish hue to simulate harbor water, use Vallejo Still Water Effects to give the water depth and then finish it off with artist's gel to give the water a bit of life. 

This is the first time I have tried this so keep your fingers crossed for me. :)

Ernest     
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #22 on: 27 Oct , 2009, 12:14 »
And the motofil has been poured, actually did this Sunday, and painted.  Overall I like how the color turned out.  Next step, pour about one mm of Vallejo Still Water and let it sit overnight to dry.  I am holding my breath.

Ernest
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #23 on: 28 Oct , 2009, 12:57 »
Well the Vallejo Still Water did not work out so well to say the least.  As it dryed it shrank - alot, and pulled some paint away from the seawork and the model also.  Yikes!!!

I pulled it up sanded down the seawork and areas on the uboat that needed it.  I just finished re-airbrushing the model, just portions that needed it, and I am continuing to prep the seawork.

The new plan is to paint the sea again. After it is dry, I'll use artist's gel to give the "water" sheen and texture.  Hopefully round 2 will go better the round 1!

Ernest   
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Offline Rokket

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #24 on: 29 Oct , 2009, 01:13 »
Looking good tho, should be a really nice display. Sorry to hear about the setback, but at least you are pushing on!
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #25 on: 29 Oct , 2009, 06:22 »
Quote from: rokket on 29 Oct , 2009, 01:13
Looking good tho, should be a really nice display. Sorry to hear about the setback, but at least you are pushing on!

Thanks Wink!  Actually, the problems were/are pretty correctable.  The uboot looks as good as before, and I intend to do a better job blending the paint to add some depth preception.  That will get done after work today.  Right now I am thinking through how to construct a torpedo loading system using the eduard set and some evergreen tubing.  From the few pictures I have, the loading system was much different then that used on the Type VIIs and IXs.  It should be an interesting challenge!

Ernest 
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Offline Rokket

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #26 on: 30 Oct , 2009, 16:12 »
Hmmmm, if only we had more photos!Post your pix of loading if you don't mind, love to see.

Keep us posted!
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #27 on: 31 Oct , 2009, 08:11 »
Quote from: rokket on 30 Oct , 2009, 16:12
Hmmmm, if only we had more photos!Post your pix of loading if you don't mind, love to see.

Keep us posted!


Wink, no pictures of the torpedo loading setup yet; I am still thinking through how best to do it.  However, I do have some pictures of my "water"!  The first two were taken right after I applied the artists gel.  I then sweated out the night while it dryed.

The remaining photos show the finished water.  Overall I am pleased with the result.  I would have liked a more "3D' look to better give the impression of depth, but it looks pretty good as is. 
« Last Edit: 31 Oct , 2009, 08:16 by Greif »
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Offline Rokket

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #28 on: 31 Oct , 2009, 18:46 »
It looks very realistic, excellent job!
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Offline Greif

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Re: U-3 - 1938 Configuration
« Reply #29 on: 01 Nov , 2009, 07:18 »
Quote from: rokket on 31 Oct , 2009, 18:46
It looks very realistic, excellent job!

Thanks Wink, to tell the truth, I was surprised it came out as well as it did.

Below are 4 photos of the latest progress:

Photo 1 shows the Reichsadler mounted and painted RLM 71 blackgreen.  I think the color matches weathered bronze fairly well.  I plan to put a very thin coat of metalizer exhaust to give it a bit of sheen.

Photo 2 is the starboard side of the conning tower.  Nothing special.

Photo 3 shows a bit of scratchbuilding/kitbashing on my part.  One of the scenes I plan for the diorama is crewmembers loading supplies.  So, I opened up the wood hatch cover, scratch built a piece of pressure hull and hatch.  It came out ok.

Photo 4 is an overall shot of the starboard side.

Ernest 
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