AMP - Accurate Model Parts
SEA => SUBS: Uboats => TYPE II => Topic started by: Greif on 22 Feb , 2009, 10:16
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I have started my next build. It will be displayed in a prewar harbor setting, loading supplies and torpedos.
I have taken a few photos and posted them in the "On the Bench" section of the gallery.
The Hull:The only change to the hull is the use of the Nautilus deck. You can see that I have cut out areas for the torpedo loading bay and the rear hatch. Due to the size of the Type II's, torpedos were loaded tail first in the opposite direction that other u-boats loaded. The part is from the CMK Torpedo Loading Kit. The "pressure hull" beneath the rear hatch is a piece of Evergreen sheet, with a hole cut out and topped by a piece of circular plastic.
The Conning Tower: I added a bit of detail to the Conning Tower. Most of the PE Parts are left overs from an Eduard Type VII Detail set. The copper wire replaces the kit railing which was either plastic or flat PE. The small 1/4 round pieces of copper wire on each side of the read conning tower floor were added. I also scratch-built a foghorn and installed it to the front of the Conning Tower.
Hope you enjoy the pictures!
Ernest
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Lovely job Ernest. Conning tower railings look superb. :o
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Very nice work so far, the rail looks super and is much better than the kit parts. Your hull work is allso spot on, good idea doing a loading scene!
Keep em comming :D
Cheers/Jan
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Thank you for the kind comments guys!
Well after much consideration I have decided to cut the hull down to waterline level. I'll be doing that tonight after work (i'm already getting sweat on the forehead thinking about the job!). I think I'll use artist's paper, painted with acrylic paints attached to a hardwood base to simulate the water surface. The texture of the paper looks like it will replicate the rippled nature of calm harbor water nicely.
I plan to pour 1mm layers of thinned acrylic gel to a depth of 3mm to give the water sheen and depth. I'm still debating whether to tint the first and second layers.
The base dimensions will be 55cm by 20cm, which should give the diorama a nice compact appearence without being cramped. I'm using Artmaster's Kaimauer sets for the pier. I hope the other half of my order arrives soon!
This being my first attempt at simulating water I am open to ideas and/or tips. If you guys have any suggestions please feel free to give them, I'm all ears!
Ernest
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Good luck buddy - you are gonna need it ;D
Anyway, remember that acryllic gel shrinks while drying up - so it can leave a clear film on the lower part of the hull if the layers ain
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Well guys, I just finished cutting the hull down to the waterline level. Whew!!!! It turned out pretty well, I'll post pictures later. I'm going to have to modify my plans for the base however. The hull does not sit perfectly flat; there is a small gap for a few cms on either side of the hull center. Therefore the artist's paper idea is out.
Plan B is to still use a hardwood base; and after measuring some more the base will be 60cm by 10cm. I will make a .5cm high frame using basewood and fill the inner area with moltofil and slightly sink the hull into it. I then plan to hand paint the base the same colors as Plan A. Jan you are right about the depth of the acrylic gel needing to be only 1mm.
As an aside, if you thought the Type II was small as a full hull model, it looks really small as a waterline model!
Ernest
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Well I have made a bit of progress. I spent yesterday cleaning up flash and seams on several small parts. Not the most exciting thing in the world as all of you know, so I'll spare you the boring details about that.
I made a wooden base and have started planning the layout of the diorama. On the attached pictures you can see that I plan to offset the framing somewhat. This will serve two purposes. First it will give a (hopefully) neat asymetric look to the diorama. Second it allows me to put the brass name plate where everyone can see it! ;D
I put some of the pier sections behind the model to test the height. Though the model will be elevated a few mm's when it is set into the motolfil the pier is still too high. I'll have to cut it down a couple of cm's.
I'm still deciding whether to put a basewood strip on the rear of the base adjunct to the pier, which will be attached to the back of the base. I'm leaning towards not putting a strip in as the uboat will then be nearer the pier as it would in real life.
As always, comments, suggestions and critisims are welcome.
Ernest
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1408/baselayout1.jpg)
By greif8 (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/greif8), shot with DSC-H7 (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerabuy.php?model=DSC-H7&make=SONY) at 2009-02-25
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/4963/baselayout2.jpg)
By greif8 (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/greif8), shot with DSC-H7 (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerabuy.php?model=DSC-H7&make=SONY) at 2009-02-25
IMG]http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1408/baselayout1.jpg[/IMG]
By greif8 (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/greif8), shot with DSC-H7 (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerabuy.php?model=DSC-H7&make=SONY) at 2009-02-25
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Wonderful! this build is going to be really nice. Are you basing your diorama on a specific photo?
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Good start on this one. Would you consider bringing the wall forward a bit, and perhaps making some of the bank showing, with maybe some tracks, and possibly the wooden crane- im sure it would look smashing. I know its lot of work, and expence, but the final result will be worth it in my opinion. ;) Just the thought.
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Wonderful! this build is going to be really nice. Are you basing your diorama on a specific photo?
Thank you Bracco! The diorama is not based on any particuliar photo. It is based on several different photos I have looked at in both the "Uboot im Focus" magazines and "Vom Original zum Modell".
Ernest
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Good start on this one. Would you consider bringing the wall forward a bit, and perhaps making some of the bank showing, with maybe some tracks, and possibly the wooden crane- im sure it would look smashing. I know its lot of work, and expence, but the final result will be worth it in my opinion. ;) Just the thought.
Hi Siara, hopefully further construction will go as well as the start. I had my heart in my throat the entire time I was cutting the hull in half! Good suggestions on your part. I had considered doing the very thing you recommend. Unfortunately, cabinet space is getting very tight in the room where my models are displayed. Until a remodel the room - which is my next project once this one is finished - and buy some new glass cabinets there is no place to put a larger diorama.
As an aside, I learned from the "near-death" experience of U228. Now all my models are under lock and key at all times, even those on display.
Of course there is always another diorama to be built in the future!
Ernest
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Short update, I have primed all parts and painted the conning tower, hull, and various other parts Hellgrau 50. I am using Lifecolor paints. I also did a tinz bit of scratchbuilding, in the second photo on the railing I constructed two seats.
Overall the build is preceeding slowly. I am trying out a few ideas for the water. In the first photo I have placed the hull into a cutout I made from a piece of heat resistent board. Don't know if I will go this route, but it is worth looking at.
The final two photos show the conning tower and the hull with the conning tower and a couple of other parts placed on the deck.
Enjoy!
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4858/railingseats.th.jpg) (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=railingseats.jpg)
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/3949/overalldioy.th.jpg) (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=overalldioy.jpg)
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/8317/ctkm50.th.jpg) (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ctkm50.jpg)
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6895/waterline.th.jpg) (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=waterline.jpg)
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Great work so far - you will be finished soon with that speed :D
Considering the work you put into it, I would consider Siara
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Good progress Ernest!
Type II is great looking sub. Especially waterline conversion like yours. In the future i will make similar dio. Keep it up Ernest! ;)
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heres a approach that might be usefull for the calm waters of a harbour:
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2267 (http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2267)
This might allso be useable, but im a bit in doubt if it works on large scale http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2527 (http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2527)
aside from that, you can buy glass that has a rippeled surface on one side that migth be usefull.
Cheers/Jan
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heres a approach that might be usefull for the calm waters of a harbour:
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2267 (http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2267)
This might allso be useable, but im a bit in doubt if it works on large scale http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2527 (http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2527)
aside from that, you can buy glass that has a rippeled surface on one side that migth be usefull.
Cheers/Jan
Hi Jan, I am definitely leaning towards technique 1 above, modified slightly. I will use the heat resistance cork? board shown in the second picture of my latest post to bring the hull to the correct depth. After I have that setup I plan to use Pete's technique with the artist's paper to simulate the water, then I'll place the hull into it's location. Any gaps around the hull will be filled with motolfil from the tube, blended into the surrounding area and painted.
I'm still deciding whether to use acrylic gel for a top coat to provide sheen or use future floor wax. I plan to test both methods to see which works the best.
Sincerely,
Ernest
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Hi guys, I'll have a modeling slowdown for the next few days while a repaint and refloor our hobby room. One must keep the spouse happy in the pursuit of wedded bless after all! ;D
Ernest
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Well I have finally completed the big "honey do" project of renovating one of the rooms in our house. I plan to continue work on my Type II diorama this weekend so I should have something to offer the group.
Ernest
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Well guys, the road cycling racing season ended this past Saturday; so it is back to model building for the next several months. I have had my U-3 project in storage while the racing, and general cycling, season was open. I will be pulling it out tonight and start up work on it. Look for some new updates over the coming weeks. It is good to be back!
Greif
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Hi Greif. I know how you feel about coming back to a project after a long time from it :) I have just started again on my project after the winter down here in New Zealand. I work as an avalanche forecast on a ski area and can only work on my project in the summer months.
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Sometimes the pause helps, really! (I remember a few computer games that were nothing but torture, but ater a 30 day pause were conquered! And contact eneses and a couple model solutions...)
And SO right about wedded bliss. Maybe its not so much about BLIS, but about not being tortured... ;D
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First update of the new modelling season for me.
I have attached, at least I hope they work, two shots of U3 after the hull has been cut down and set on a base I made. This was done a few days ago. My plan is to use plaster to set the model in, paint the plaster a bluish/greyish/greenish hue to simulate harbor water, use Vallejo Still Water Effects to give the water depth and then finish it off with artist's gel to give the water a bit of life.
This is the first time I have tried this so keep your fingers crossed for me. :)
Ernest
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And the motofil has been poured, actually did this Sunday, and painted. Overall I like how the color turned out. Next step, pour about one mm of Vallejo Still Water and let it sit overnight to dry. I am holding my breath.
Ernest
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Well the Vallejo Still Water did not work out so well to say the least. As it dryed it shrank - alot, and pulled some paint away from the seawork and the model also. Yikes!!!
I pulled it up sanded down the seawork and areas on the uboat that needed it. I just finished re-airbrushing the model, just portions that needed it, and I am continuing to prep the seawork.
The new plan is to paint the sea again. After it is dry, I'll use artist's gel to give the "water" sheen and texture. Hopefully round 2 will go better the round 1!
Ernest
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Looking good tho, should be a really nice display. Sorry to hear about the setback, but at least you are pushing on!
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Looking good tho, should be a really nice display. Sorry to hear about the setback, but at least you are pushing on!
Thanks Wink! Actually, the problems were/are pretty correctable. The uboot looks as good as before, and I intend to do a better job blending the paint to add some depth preception. That will get done after work today. Right now I am thinking through how to construct a torpedo loading system using the eduard set and some evergreen tubing. From the few pictures I have, the loading system was much different then that used on the Type VIIs and IXs. It should be an interesting challenge!
Ernest
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Hmmmm, if only we had more photos!Post your pix of loading if you don't mind, love to see.
Keep us posted!
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Hmmmm, if only we had more photos!Post your pix of loading if you don't mind, love to see.
Keep us posted!
Wink, no pictures of the torpedo loading setup yet; I am still thinking through how best to do it. However, I do have some pictures of my "water"! The first two were taken right after I applied the artists gel. I then sweated out the night while it dryed.
The remaining photos show the finished water. Overall I am pleased with the result. I would have liked a more "3D' look to better give the impression of depth, but it looks pretty good as is.
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It looks very realistic, excellent job!
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It looks very realistic, excellent job!
Thanks Wink, to tell the truth, I was surprised it came out as well as it did.
Below are 4 photos of the latest progress:
Photo 1 shows the Reichsadler mounted and painted RLM 71 blackgreen. I think the color matches weathered bronze fairly well. I plan to put a very thin coat of metalizer exhaust to give it a bit of sheen.
Photo 2 is the starboard side of the conning tower. Nothing special.
Photo 3 shows a bit of scratchbuilding/kitbashing on my part. One of the scenes I plan for the diorama is crewmembers loading supplies. So, I opened up the wood hatch cover, scratch built a piece of pressure hull and hatch. It came out ok.
Photo 4 is an overall shot of the starboard side.
Ernest
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Mmmm, very nice. Love the hatch and railing work too, it came out waaay OK! The overall shot looks mighty fine, too.
Oh, that's a very nice storage system and actualy unit for your paint - you're much too neat and organized, but it's still nice ;D
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Mmmm, very nice. Love the hatch and railing work too, it came out waaay OK! The overall shot looks mighty fine, too.
Oh, that's a very nice storage system and actualy unit for your paint - you're much too neat and organized, but it's still nice ;D
You know Rokket, so far this build is turning out ok. The only real setback thus far was my first attempt at water, which thankfully turned out to be easily correctable.
The last two days I built 8 figures and have prepped them for priming and painting. Not worth any pictures yet. I have also been doing a bit of scratchbuilding/kitbashing on the torpedo loading system. Another couple of days and I should be ready to assemble and paint it.
Also, thanks for the compliment on my paint storage. I guess the quest for orderliness is my german side coming out. ;D
Ernest
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Tell us how you're doing the figures,always interested. I painted mine black, then painted over that, heard it was a fast and dirty way to get some good shading. It seemed to work, but would like to better on the Gato crew. Also very interested in your kitbashing for the torp loading!
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Tell us how you're doing the figures,always interested. I painted mine black, then painted over that, heard it was a fast and dirty way to get some good shading. It seemed to work, but would like to better on the Gato crew. Also very interested in your kitbashing for the torp loading!
Hi Wink, to answer your questions, the technique I use for 1:72 figure painting is an old one from the late 70's called "stain Painting" a short discription follows:
1) I paint the head and body of figures seperately if possible.
2) Using and airbrush, prime with a light color (generally I use vallejo light grey). This brings out any imperfections that can then be corrected.
3) Again, using and airbrush spray a flat black base coat, I use Lifecolor paints, they have a very fine pigmentation that is important when painting 1:72 scale. Let dry overnight. Vallejo paints also work well.
4) Using flat white, drybrush the entire figure. When finished with this step the raised surfaces will be colored white, while the recesses will still be black.
5) Using acrylics of the chosen color, thinned to the consistency of milk "stain" the figure. Do this until satisfied with the effect, usually no more then two passes. This technique causes a nice blending effect between highlights and shadows.
6) Use a very thin 1:9 wash of medium brown laid in to the recesses using a 000 brush to take a bit of the "harshness" out of the contrast.
7) Finally, drybrush light highlights onto raised surfaces.
8) Seal by airbrushing a matt varnish. (I use Vallejo Matt)
I use a different technique for the faces.
a. Airbrush a flesh colored base coat. This gives a smooth surface to work with. (I use Vallejo flesh)
b. Paint eyebrows, beards if wanted, using an acrylic color of your choice. Let everything dry overnight.
c. Use an oil based wash of Burnt Umber to lay in the deep shadows and eyes. At 1:72 scale you can't see the "whites of the eyes" or iris color so this is as far as one needs to go for the eyes.
d. Using artists oils, Yellow Ochre and Raw Umber mix light and very light highlights and dark shadows. Using a drybrush technique lay these onto the correct locations, a tiny bit is all that is needed for this. Next take a soft brush and working from top to bottom lightly stroke the bruch a few times. This will blend the paint nicely.
e. Finally, after everything is dry and again using a airbrush, spray a tiny bit of semi-gloss coat from directly above the head. This will give the upper surfaces of the face a bit of sheen and add "life" to it.
It all sounds more complex than it is and the results are quite nice.
The kitbashing/scratchbuilding of the torpedo loading equipment is nearly complete and was pretty straightforward. I used several of the parts from the CMK torpedo loading set, a "block" made out of resin, and some small parts to scratch built a block and tackle arrangment (still waiting for the blocks to arrive).
I have three photos of type IIs loading torpedos. The vertical post and block and tackle appear to be the same as those used in other uboot types. The loading tray and its supports look much different. In fact, they look slightly different in each of the three photos. This leads me to believe that crews may have used what was on hand to give the tray the proper angle. In two of the photos, the loading tray appears to be supported on a piece of knee height wood.
I will post a couple of photos tonight when I get home. Again, it is pretty straightforward.
Ernest
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The following pictures show the figures after priming. Overall, I got it right the first time with construction, filling and sanding. With the exception of the left head in the "Heads 2" photo there were no noticable seams. They will cure over night and I will start paining tomorrow.
Enjoy,
Ernest
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And the updates keep on coming. ;D
The following pictures are of the supplies I will be using with painting being complete; and a few of the torpedo loading parts.
Ernest
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Latest update:
I have been working on the figures and misc. other stuff. The figures are nearly done; I only need to attach the heads. The first three pictures show the almost finished figures.
Photo three is the torpedo.
Enjoy!
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Today's update: Things are starting to come together. I completed the supply loading scene, which turned out fairly well. I also installed the torpedo cradle, and the safety railing. Finally, I made some progress on the torpedo loading gear. Enjoy the photos.
Ernest
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No pictures today. I have been working on weathering and installing the dockside walls. There are some minor fit issues to be corrected and I have to fill the spaces between the water and wood/concrete. That is a task for tomorrow.
I am still waiting on the parts I ordered from England to arrive. Hopefully they will be here tomorrow or Wednesday. Once they are here I can press on with consruction of both the torpedo loading scene and the shortning wires.
Ernest
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Completed general construction of the insulators. Building them was not too hard and they turned out ok. Critiques are welcome. :)
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Newest update: As you can see by the pictures, I have been working on the shorting lines. They required alot of measuring and picture scanning to ensure I got the distances right. I scratchbuilt the line splitter out of evergreen stock (more measuring and pictur scanning!). The brass tightners are some leftovers from the AMP PE Set. Overall they turned out ok.
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Thanks for the detailed info, and the pix. ll look great. And nice rigging, too!
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Thanks for the detailed info, and the pix. ll look great. And nice rigging, too!
Hi Rokket, I'm coming down to the wire on the build. It should be finshed late this coming week. Glad you like the insulators; they are a bit over scale, but not by much and they look pretty good once painted.
Everything is ready to rig the uboot up, which I will do once I have completed doing the "water" around the dock pilings, a rather long and nerve racking job I must say. I should have changed the contruction sequence a bit to make it easier. Live and learn as they say!
Ernest
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good pix