AMP - Accurate Model Parts
SEA => SUBS: Uboats => TYPE VII => Topic started by: bracco_n on 27 Jan , 2009, 14:18
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Hello everybody! Some weeks ago I started workin on my model. I've already drilled all the holes in the hull and in the conning tower, I've also started to make the new welds. I'll post pictures later. I started work on the Schnorkel modification we've been discussing in other thread.
I assembled the conning tower, Schnorkel and its housing, and the middle section of the upperdeck using tape. I took a little bar of plastic taken from the sprue, and heating it with a match I could give it the shape I need. Here are some pictures
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/7413/dsc07048eq1.jpg)
CG, snort and it's housing, and the upperdeck assembled with tape.
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/5452/dsc07049hi4.jpg)
My first attemp to make the outter pipe. I'll improve it with some putty and sanding
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9964/dsc07052rb0.jpg)
(not a great pic) the pipe shown where it will be placed.
(http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/6368/snorckeltipo701cr6.jpg)
What I'm trying to recreate
that's what I've got untill now. Will post pictures of the welds and open holes later.
I hope you like what I'm doing!
Nicolas
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Hi Nicolas, pretty nice job with the sprue. I am interested in seeing more of your build. Have you decided which u-boat you are going to do yet?
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I appreciate your comments. I haven't decided which boat will it be, I've got some ideas but I'm not fully decided. I want to build U-300 returning from one of her succesful patrols but couldn't find any photos of that particular boat.
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I finished the pipe! It's not that detailed but that's all I can do, I tried to make some smaller details but I'm not that skilled. It's my first attempt at building something from scratch and I'm pretty happy with it! (I know it's small but it's a big step for me)
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5339/dsc07053xt7.jpg)
The forward end of the pipe (the one that connects to the snort mast) was made out a nut. I sanded the edges (it's a pentagon as you know) so that it's (almost) circular. I tried to add some more detail but I just can't, I'll leave it as it is.
(http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1253/dsc07054pi7.jpg)
Now I'll leave that and will switch to other thing. I have to finish the welds, build the piping inside the CG and start thinking what am I going to do with the P-hull (i'm not buying YMW one for sure!)
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First it looks like a small conversion, but it changes the look of the boat a lot!!
I like it!
:)
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Nice to go the extra and add the detail!
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Thanks for your comments guys!
Work has begun on the welds:
(http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1954/dsc07055mm0.jpg)
(http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/490/dsc07056hp0.jpg)
You can also see the drilled holes.
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Bracco_n what are you using as reference for the weld lines. I have feeling you are putting the welds in the wrong places. The pressure hull was made from prefabricated sections, welded together. These sections were basicaly the sheet of steel wraped on the circular ribs.
Apart from welds joining the sections, there were no more vertical welds inbetween.
The book by R.C.Stern "Type VII U-Boats" page 30-32.
(http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/2952/typevii001sq0.jpg)
(http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/4810/typevii002xq0.jpg)
(http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5683/typevii003iv1.jpg)
(http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/6494/typevii004ey1.jpg)
Seems to me you have followed the pattern of the weld lines on the sadle tanks, which has nothing to do with the weld lines on the pressure hull.
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Bracco_n what are you using as reference for the weld lines. I have feeling you are putting the welds in the wrong places. The pressure hull was made from prefabricated sections, welded together. These sections were basicaly the sheet of steel wraped on the circular ribs.
Apart from welds joining the sections, there were no more vertical welds inbetween.
The book by R.C.Stern "Type VII U-Boats" page 30-32.
Seems to me you have followed the pattern of the weld lines on the sadle tanks, which has nothing to do with the weld lines on the pressure hull.
Hi Siara. Do you have any picture of the pressure hull of the stern section? I have seen that great picture of the 88 gun mounting on the bow, do you have any thing like that for the stern?
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Siara, as a reference I've used Rokket's model and U-673 been build by Glenn. I think that I am more or less putting the welds were they put it on their models.
These are some pictures from Glenn's build:
(http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7687/u673224pg9.jpg)
(http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/2100/u673226gy2.jpg)
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I dont wonna sound like know it all, or criticise fellow modeller, but i think the only weld lines should be the welds between the sections (vertical ) , and horizontal- between the sheets of steel used for wraping around the ribs.
(http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/4404/u673224pg9cb9.jpg)
(http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/7320/u673226gy2rv5.jpg)
My personal opinion based on observation of the pictures. ;)
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Once again Siara has bet me to a reply while I was typing my reply ;)
Here this the weld lines for U-995. Look like the horizontal lines are correct (2 step down), however, seem a few extra vertical line compare to U-995.
(http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4751/hullvu3.th.jpg) (http://img401.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hullvu3.jpg)
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Heres another one showing some of the welds on the saddeltanks (http://gallery.kitmaker.net/data/22547/laboefeature_006.jpg)
Additional images here: http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2243 (http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2243)
I would seem that some relatively large sheets of steel has been used, propably rolled in shape before welding.
I use stretched sprue to simulate weldseams - soak in liquid glue, attach and texture with the blunt side of a blade.
Cheers/Jan
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Jan ;D We are talking about the welds on the pressure hull.
Simons picture proves me right.
The only vertical lines, are these between the segments, with horizontal lines being the welds between sheets of steel. Look at the red lines on the pictures i posted earlier, and at Simons picture.
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Jan ;D We are talking about the welds on the pressure hull.
I know, the lower part on my picture is the pressure hull, unless im completely in need of my bed ? ;)
I mentioned the saddeltanks, because on the Kiel sub, the saddeltanks are more or less smooth - generally its a difficult task doing 1:72 weldseams without overdoing them - allso notice how little "oilcanning" is present on the pressurehull and the saddletanks, even on a boat that was sailing in active service until mid. 60.ties or so.
Cheers/Jan
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What about this two pictures?
(http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5631/tank1ma9.jpg)
(http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7070/tank2qu0.jpg)
It's clear that here the weld lines on the saddletanks continue on the p-hull. Seems like some boats had it and some others didn't.
Should I keep on doing the welds or remove them completely?
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I think that the lines you are talking about are the shadows ;D
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100% sure? I'm not completely convinced that they're shadows but I'll take your word.
So, do I remove the welds I've made?
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200% that these lines are shadows mate.
(http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/873/tank1ma9mq8.jpg)
Id remove the extra welds if i were you.
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Very clever of yours Mr Siara. I'll start sanding them out straight away!
Could you please post some photos of those little three holes in the bow? I remember that something was wrong with them and I want to correct it.
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Could you please post some photos of those little three holes in the bow? I remember that something was wrong with them and I want to correct it.
Hi bracco_n
Have you downloaded 'U-BOATS: Type VIIC Free-Flooding Vent Patterns (new updated version)' from the AMP library?
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Not Yet, will do inmediately!
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I decided I'm mgoing to do U-1023 previously or during it's only patrol. These are the only pictures I could find and will base my model on thses two:
(http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/1175/typev11cu1023wm3.jpg)
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9990/u1023zp0.jpg)
I'll have to build another pipe (the one on the starboard bow of the CG), a water-tight container for spare barrels, water tight containers on the back of the Wintergarten (for life rafts), some modifications to the free flooding holes and will have to eliminate on of the four water tight containers on the upperdeciking.
Today I'll finish the removal of welds and will start modifying the flood holes
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It
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Hi Nicolas,
Here are some photos of your chosen boat U 1023. U 1023 is on the outside, U 249 on the inside. Date is 26 May 1945.
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc118/dougie47/U249l_U1023r_26may45_9.jpg)
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc118/dougie47/U249l_U1023r_26may45_10.jpg)
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc118/dougie47/U249r_U1023l_26may45.jpg)
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc118/dougie47/U1023_26may45.jpg)
Note there are no deck railings.
Hope these help.
Cheers,
Dougie
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Your U-boat is coming along nicely bracco! Keep up the good work!
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GREAT!! Those pictures will be of help. May I ask where did you find them?
I thought about using a dark gray for the upper decking but now will have to rethink it.
Today I've been filling holes on the stb side and a part of the long opening over the saddle tanks. I've also cut one of the water tight containers from the upper decking. Will post pictures later.
The only thing I think I won't be able to do is the modified compass housing.
Thanks for the help!
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Hi Nicolas,
You're welcome. I've only just remembered where I got them from, otherwise earlier I would have posted the link rather than the photos. They are from here -
http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-249PhotosLondonderry.htm
There are some other U-boat images at that site. Worth hunting around there. For example, for U 402 and U 570 -
http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-402PhotosBibliothek.htm
http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-402PhotosMcCarthy.htm
http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-570Photographs.htm
http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-570GeneralPlan.htm
Cheers,
Dougie
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Thanks Dougie, indeed, U-402 is the boat I want to replicate after I finish this one (using the type VIIC 1/144)
I've noted that in the pictures you provided (after it was captured), U-1023 didn't carry the emblem of the crossed hammers as in the pictures I posted. Perhaps they were added by the british.
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...Nicolas...U-1023 did carry the embem of crossed hammers..Check out u-boat.net
Bill
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Hi Nicolas and Bill,
The hammer and mallet was added on 03/01/45 and was made of sheet brass (source: Georg Hoegel). This was added on either side of the tower, directly above the navigation light. If you look at this exact location on the top image I posted, you can see a dark shape. I suspect this is the hammer and mallet sheet.
Note the pipe on the deck at the foot of the tower (on the starboard side).
Cheers,
Dougie
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Dougie thanks for your replies. I'll get to the emblema topic once I'm done with the building.
Now I'm interested in the pipe you're mentioning. Can you get a more detailed picture of it? There's a strange device close to the middle of the pipe and I don't know what it is (and how to build it!)
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Nicolas...What i have used in the past to fabricate piping is "O" ring material. Long straight runs
come out very well because it has some "stretch"...Making bends, especially sharp ones, can be achieved by slitting it lenghtwise and glueing in a ridged wire (coat hanger?) When you make your bend it stays there. Take a look at my "beer can" p-hull and you can see an example.."O" Ring material comes in many diameters..I think, myself, the results are rewarding..
Regards/ Cheers....Bill
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Hi Nicolas,
I can't recall of seeing better photos of this pipe than on U 1023. But if I come across a photo I'll let you know.
Cheers,
Dougie
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Bill and Dougie, many thanks for your replies!
Small update, I've been working on the free flooding holes. This is what I've got so far on the starboard side:
(http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/7677/dsc07058et7.jpg)
(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6946/dsc07059sb8.jpg)
(http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1492/dsc07060ur8.jpg)
I have some doubts as there are no pictures of the port side. Should I fill the holes as I did on the stb side? What do I have to do with the long horizontal gap?
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Hi Nicolas,
On the long horizontal slot on the port side, drill away 11mm at the front. I don't have photos of the port side of U 1203. My best guess for the port side holes would be 21 on the top row and 16 on the bottom row.
For more details of hole patterns see -
http://amp.rokket.biz/documents/vent_patterns_031208.pdf
Cheers,
Dougie
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Very well Dougie I'll get to works right away.
Today I built the top side for the torpedo doors and some minor modification on the CG of which I'll post pictures later.
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Hello everybody. My computer is out of order so I can
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Coming along nicely Bracco!
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I'm back from Rio. Will get back to work inbmediately!
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Work has been resumed. Some Eduard detail has been added to the hull. The torpedo doors have been done. The limber holes have been corrected according to U-1023 photos. Work has started on the P-hull. I made the central par using a tube I found at home and the tubes that come with toilet paper. I found that this material is very useful as it has the correct curvature and it's shape can be changed by applying some pressure. I used the bulkheads that Revell provides to hold my p-hull. I'm pretty happy with the results. Now I'll get to build the extensions of the saddle tanks. What are your opinions?
(http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/730/dsc07088rz4.jpg)
(http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/84/dsc07089bj7.jpg)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1037/dsc07090tt6.jpg)
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1460/dsc07091ma2.jpg)
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Hi bracco, the pressure hull is looking very good. Though I'll bet the bikinis looked pretty good on the Rio beaches too! ;)
Ernest
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I'm about to place the ribs above the saddle tanks. Could any of you tell me how much space should I leave between ribs and how thick should they be?
And yes Ernest, brazilian girls are amaaazing!!
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In RL it was 0,6m, but in the model be guided by the rivets on outside of the thin strip above the tanks. ;)
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Hi bracco_n
Here is a unfinish plans that I am doing for my working drawing http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=124.0 (http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=124.0)
Drawing http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ye0tz3zngoj (http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ye0tz3zngoj)
The orange lines are the full frame count and distances in real world. However, the average spacing is 500 mm or 6.9 mm at 1:72. The green lines are the ribbing.
Siara, the ribbing was 600 mm and frames are 500 mm ;)
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I started placing the ribs above the saddle tanks. This is the part of the project in which I want to throw everything through the window. Placing this little bastards is so tiring that I only placed 5 today. I believe it will be many days before I finish this most tedious task
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(5 - 132 frames) x 2 sides = lots :(
Keep up the good work. I am sure it will look great when its finish ;D
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...You'll find that just when you start having fun ...You'll be all done! Like some other things in life?
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All the ribs are in place! it took me some time but I finally did it. Here are some pictures. I know it looks messy but once everythings closed and painted it'll look good.
(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/8310/dsc07114.jpg)
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/6683/dsc07116.jpg)
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/9409/dsc07117p.jpg)
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3882/dsc07118.jpg)
Now I'll build the ribs for the holes behind the torpedo doors and after those are in place I will glue the two halves together. Then I'll detail the p-hull and will place the ribs for the limber holes.
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Well done Bracco! The ribs look great!
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Small update. All the ribs are in place. Today I started detailing the P-hull. Using part from different sprues I built the piping, I think it came out nicely. It's a pitty that most of it won't be seen but I'll know it is there! Some little extra things will be added to the p-hull, then it'll be ready to paint! The pipes aren't glued yet, just "dry fit"
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2885/dsc07119.jpg)
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5467/dsc07120.jpg)
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2898/dsc07121.jpg)
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8589/dsc07122.jpg)
I hope you like it!
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Wow, going all out!
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Both Hull halves were glued together. It looks nice. When I dry fitted the deck, the central part was wrong. The ribs above the saddletanks were placed to far out so I had to remove them all and glue them farther back. Silly mistake. My nice-looking ribs are thing of the past, now they look awefull, damn. I'll try to make them look as better as I can.
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They only have to look like thin little things partially visible in the long slot, so don't knock yourself out! In fact, as lovely as your piping is (and it is), other than a vague darkness, it won't show...(unless you use a torch/flashlight!). I put in the gun mounts, and continued the Tower p-hull below, but really a simple blob would do, they just slightly block the light.
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I wouldn't worry too much bracco. As Wink said, once the uboat is finished there won't be much of the ribs visible. The piping looks great by the way!
Ernest
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Work has continued on U-1023. I focused on the deck and conning tower, later will get back to those bloody ribs. This is what has been done:
-both hull halves have been glued together.
-pressure hull in place and painted (nothing visible when the deck is fitted)
-Eduard PE applied to foward and aft parts of the deck.
-Little tube added to the Schnorkel mast so that it fits the pipe on the CG once raised
-Pipe that goes on the stb. bow of the CG built and in place.
-CG prepared to apply PE for the outer surfaces.
-holes for the steps on both sides of the CG have been filled. U-1023 had 3 steps instead of 4.
As you can see I have been working on my boat but didn't have time to take pictures, hope to do so tomorrow. It looks incredibly messy but I'm confident it'll look nice in the end.
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Pictures arrived.
(http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/8038/dsc07820.jpg)
Schnorkel
(http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4029/dsc07823v.jpg)
PE parts applied to the stern section
(http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6132/dsc07824.jpg)
PE parts applied to the bow section. I removed the stermonst of 4 watertight containers as U-1023 only carried 3.
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/3426/dsc07825.jpg)
Painted P-hull. I didn't put much effort on the painting as nothing of it is visible.
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/7029/dsc07826.jpg)
PE parts
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2761/dsc07827.jpg)
The bow. I didn't say anything about the torpedo doors. Look down.
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/5004/dsc07830.jpg)
I hope you like how it's coming out. Remember it looks messy now.
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Question for Greif: did you paint the Schonrkel housing and the Schnorkel itself before fitting it to the deck?
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Torp doors look great!
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Thanks for your comments Wink!
Hello everybody, small update. I've built the stb water tight container for the life rafts on the back of the conning tower. I used a spare water tight hatch as I only needed 3 on the bow. It looks pretty nice but I still have to sand it smoothly. The problem is that I have no spare hatches to make the port one. Can anybody share a spare hatch with me? Please send me a PM if you can. Now I'll concentrate on the outer CG, then I'll get to the bridge which is the part I fear most!
(http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4260/dsc07832.jpg)
(http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4129/dsc07834.jpg)
(http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/7023/dsc07835.jpg)
(http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4661/dsc07836.jpg)
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looks good!
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Thats what I wanted to see! I like it!
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Thanks everybody, I'm glad you liked my work! Untill I get the other hatch I'll be working on the bridge, I'm still not sure about what I'm going to do with the periscope housing and the UZO, I think it'll be the hardest part of the project.
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Question for Greif: did you paint the Schonrkel housing and the Schnorkel itself before fitting it to the deck?
Hi bracco, your boat is looking very nice! I did paint the snort housing and snort before fitting it to the deck.
By the way, did you get the periscopes yet?
Ernest
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Hello Everybody! Thanks for the nice comments! I'm actually working on the deck and conning tower details. Nothing out of the ordinary has been done so that's why I din't upload any photos. Were the gadgets found on a Type VIIC41' bridge similar to those on the VIICs?
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Yes and no...Let me know that gadgets you want to know about..and I should be able to help with the deck & bridge layout ;D
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The BBC box, voicepipe, the compass above the BBC box, speed dial, that kind of gadgets.
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I afraid I
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Thanks to the collaboration of Jan, I've almost finished the second water tight container that goes on the conning tower. Now I'm about to build the canister for spare barrels. The canister held barrels for the 37mm or the 20mm guns? Any suggestions about how long should I build it? Any photos of canister of this type are very much appreciated.
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Hi everybody, my computer is back in working order so I'll re activate my post. I've been working a lot since my last post. Most of the bridge gadgets have been built except the BBC box. Both periscope housings are done, only the UZO is missing. the outer CG is done and some other things that I'm missing now. Pictures coming soon!
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standing by for pix!
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Photos have arrived! First two photos, the attack periscope housing. I've got to say that I'm very proud of this piece, even if I'm not a 100% satisfied with it, it's the best I could do and I think it looks good. One or two little things will be added
(http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3518/dsc08975.jpg)
(http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/4452/dsc08976z.jpg)
Next photo: air periscope housing, voice pipe and speed dial. The BBC box is being built. I'm really glad with how I did this section.
(http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/2088/dsc08977.jpg)
General view of port side with the Schnorkel pipe.
(http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4231/dsc08979.jpg)
I got a bit bored of building so I tried something on the deck. Tell me what you think
(http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/4419/dsc08978.jpg)
I hope you like what I'm doing!
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hope you like what I'm doing!
Sure we do, but remember - its more important that you are happy !
It looks great and hugely improves the kit apperance!
Cheers/Jan
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ATTRACTIVE JOB ON THE SCHNORKEL, BRACCO..NICELY DONE..BILL
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Thanks guys! I'm glad you liked it. What do you think about the deck painting?
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Very cool!
I especially like the schnorkel pipe.
Concernig the deck, can`t really see if the spaces between the laths are black...
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I can't tell from the pictures I have, if U-1023 had Naxos. In one of the photos I think I can see it but not quite sure. Should I build it?
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9430/u249ru1023l26may45.jpg)
Another thing: I decided I'm going to use Schlikgrau 58 for the upperhull and conning tower. For that effect I have Revell 47 as stated in dougie's article. Got a question here: the bridge, should I paint it also in Schlikgrau 58 or a lighter colour?
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Both U-249 & U-1023 had FuMB-7 Naxos. U-249 (Right) also had FuMB-35 Athos
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very nice work on the deck very nice indeed!
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Great, I'll get to build it straight away! What do you think about the colour I selected?
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lighter color all the way .it will add contrast . :) :) :) :) :)
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Yeah.. but I've already have a bot painted in that scheme and there aren't many dark grey boats around. Also, take into account that this will be a late war boat.
But thanks for your opinion!
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Hi Nicolas,
There weren't many light grey U-boats late in the war. So I'd definitely agree with you about going with Schlickgrau 58.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers,
Dougie
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correct . ;D
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I'll go get Revell 47 straight away.
Here's some very nice information which I would have liked to discover at the time when I was working on my schnorchel
http://uboatnet.de/Technik/Der_Schnorchel.htm
If anybody wants to build this modification, this info is mandatory!
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UZO finished.
(http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/874/dsc08994.jpg)
(http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/1158/dsc08996.jpg)
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good site brocco ' great uzo by the way! ;)
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Small update (without photos): Schnorkle and it's housing are painted and glued in place, pretty satisfied with the result. Bridge: only BBC box remains unbuilt, Naxos device is giving some trouble to be glued in place. Photos coming soon.
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Hello everybody, it's been long since my last update. I've been working a lot on the boat and I'm nearing it's completion. Now I'm working on the AA guns. Should I paint them Schlickgrau 58 like the rest of the boat or instead, a lighter grey?
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Hi Bracco,
Looking forward to seeing photos. I'd go for Schlickgrau 58 for your AA guns.
Cheers,
Dougie
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Dougie, my camera is out of order. As soon as we buy a new one I'll post some pictures.
At the time I'm painting the CG deck and converting the railings. I have a question about those little hatches from the Eduard set. What colour should I paint them? I thought maybe black or grey but I'm not sure.
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Can anybody tell me what colour should I paint those little Eduard Hatches on the deck please?
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Same as the deck, from what I can gather. The deck was wood treated with carblinoulieoumbumdum (spell), and tho there seem to have been 2 types, a common was a charcoal col that matched the hull paint and the anti-fouling paint. The difference would be slight, between the deck an the metal, you might make the metal more solid charcoal, and the deck more thin and washy. The deck grates were wood, but there are some metal hatches. Dogie's Uboat colours article (AMP website, Library) will have more indepth info.
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I agree with Rokket on that.
I would paint the hatches same as the deck, but the only difference would be the weathering.
The deck with the usual worn to the wood paint, and some staining, while hatches with element of rusting, and metal shining through. The other aspect worth considering is the difference in finish. Wood surface should be sealed with satin, or dull coat, while hatches in gloss- i think.
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Siara and Rokket, thanks for your help!
I took some pictures finally. Here's the progress on the deck, still some work to do there:
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/6835/dsc09982t.jpg)
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/2863/dsc09983l.jpg)
(http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4932/dsc09984.jpg)
(http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4932/dsc09984.jpg)
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8999/dsc09985i.jpg)
Some weather has to be done and cover some mistakes here and there. The metal parts, do I paint them black or dark grey? The deck would originally be black so I think they should go in black, plus the weathering.
I've also been working on the CG, made a little conversion for the railing that is not finished yet. hope you like it!
(http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9321/dsc09986p.jpg)
(http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/8039/dsc09987.jpg)
(http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4258/dsc09989.jpg)
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Nice to see pix! good stuff
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Thank you Rokket! what else should I do to my deck? (apart from painting the metal parts)
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Yeeeaaaah! That looks cool! Makes me look forward to continue my own build...
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yes Jan I can't wait to see some progress on your boat!!
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Wow deck really looks great. Nice subtle tones to it to give it that scale variation! I like the way you have some areas faded. Keep it comin'. - Harvey
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Looks good, maybe just make the metal bits a slightly darker shade, with some bare metal chipping, but looking good
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Hey fellas! I've been out of the dockyard for some time. I had to finish school and sit four acceptance exams to enter ITBA, the most pretigious engeneering university here in Argentina. got 6s and 7s in all of them (passing mark was 4) so I'm really happy. Summer holidays are in full swing here in the southern hemisphere so I'll be taking of for the seaside tomorrow.
While studying I had some time to work on U-1023 and I'm glad to say that she is nearing completion. The hull is 90% painted, deck is all done, CG has some minor things to be done here and there, the only thing not done yet is the AA armament. Then comes weathering of course. I'll be out for the most part of january so work will restart on february.
I haven't lost track from the projects here, I'd like to see more of U-711, U-45, U-552. Greif's new project is looking great (also his Type II).
I hope you are having a nice 2010 and I'll see you in february!
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Have a great summer break :) Summer is also in full mode in New Zealand now. Its been nice and warm so far this summer, However, it been very windly for the few days. Where I work on the ski area, we record a wind gust of 210 km/h two days ago ;D
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Hi bracco, congrats on passing your exams, with excellent score no less! You build is coming along nicely; it looks great. I look forward to seeing more pictures.
Ernest
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Ditto on the cingrats, well done, hard work and now hard play!
We'll be here when you get back.
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Hello fellas! I'm back from the seaside and work resumend in the shipyard. We have to lament the loss of the Naxos head when my mother arbitrarily decided to relocate the shipyard while I was away. As you can see in the pics, the hulls is painted except at the waterline which still has to be done. An interesting note: I painted the whole ship using a brush, no airbrush for me. I'm really satisfied with the deck and the metal parts on it. The railing modification on the upper flak platform is also finished. In two pics you can see an attempt I made at weathering, please leave comments on it.
Things to be done: AA armament, waterline, anchor, weathering, correct some painting mistakes all over the hull.
What do you think?
(http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/891/dsc04825v.jpg)
(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/3595/dsc04826u.jpg)
(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/3595/dsc04826u.jpg)
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5923/dsc04828q.jpg)
(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/9475/dsc04829h.jpg)
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9506/dsc04830od.jpg)
(http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2698/dsc04831.jpg)
(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/3358/dsc04832l.jpg)
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/665/dsc04833k.jpg)
(http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/4152/dsc04834w.jpg)
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Glad to see you back bracco. Your build is looking very fine! Great job brush painting, it looks outstanding. The deck is coming along quite well also.
Ernest
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bracco, nice build. And I think the weathering on the deck, especially around the metal hatch covers, looks great. It's going to be a great model when finished.
I too like to use a brush, rather than an airbrush, for military models (except of course where you need a fuzzy blend of colours for specific camo patterns) because it helps with the weathering process.
Specifically, on painting my U-boat, I made all the brush strokes on the topsides in a vertical direction. While the first stroke might have been any direction to get into corners, before it can dry I always brush it in the direction that rain and any other elements would cause streaking.
Even if you can't see the brush strokes yourself, when you do overcoats for weathering, the next colour will tend to pick up slight differences in the brush marks and enhance the weathering effect.
The other comment I can make is not to dispair on your waterline. In fact, USE it!! The white markings I see (from tape pulling off?) can be used to increase the weathering, it's almost exactly where some rust would show up and where algae would build up on the hull. But the way it's happened on your boat looks entirely natural, just not the correct colours.
So when you get around to doing the weathering, try and get the rust/algae colours that you're using to cover the white parts, rather than trying to paint more grey there. You could even build up layers because in real life, the algae is on top of the paint. Also keep in mind that the anti-fouling paint below the waterline keeps the algae and rust away longer than the topsides paint, which is for camo and therefore doesn't have the antifouling ingredients mixed in.
Also, don't worry about the Naxos too much. If you're patient enough to wait for 203 months, you can get a replacement part sent from the kit manufacturer. Just email them.
OR, you can scratch build a Naxos that will look more realistic than the kit one anyway if you have the skills. Your local hobby shop will have brass rod/wire of the right thickness, or you can use efine electrical wirer without the plastic insulation. (I always save any scrapes from a telephone repair for instance, those thin wires are VERY useful). You can make the mesh to go around it from fine screens, like what comes with gasoline can filters, or some kitchen sieves. For the two little antenna on the Naxos I'm using whiskers from my cats. (No, I didn't pull them off, they fall off every once in a while and I always save them) The cat's whiskers are thin enough but unlike wire, they don't take a permanent bend when bumped and they will stay in place if you predrill a hole in the wire and/or CA them in place.
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I think Pat says it all. I airbrushed the fairwater/superstructure, but vertical hand brushed my hull for metal grain and weathering, seemed to work.
Pat's other advice sounds excellent!
Oh, and yes, deck looks great!
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I like the color of the deck.
Looking real good.
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Hey Nicolas, hope you had a good recreation time! :D
I think my "previous speaker" said it all...besides that I
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Looks really nice, especially the deck!
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Nicolas...I plan on using brush strokes on my hull as well. ( I liked the effect on Winks 557). Hopefully it will look as nice as yours..
Bill
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Same as the deck, from what I can gather. The deck was wood treated with carblinoulieoumbumdum (spell), and tho there seem to have been 2 types, a common was a charcoal col that matched the hull paint and the anti-fouling paint. The difference would be slight, between the deck an the metal, you might make the metal more solid charcoal, and the deck more thin and washy. The deck grates were wood, but there are some metal hatches. Dogie's Uboat colours article (AMP website, Library) will have more indepth info.
Re hatch colors:
Same as the deck seems to look best.
I've found that a little powdered graphite (from an art store or sanded from a soft pencil (4B) applied lightly with a fingertip gives the hatch a metallic look which is pretty subtle. It looks especially good over painted rust as it tones the rust down a bit. You might want to try some tests off the model first. I think you'll like the result.
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Nice suggestion about the graphite Don-i-C. Definitely worth a try.
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Same as the deck, from what I can gather. The deck was wood treated with carblinoulieoumbumdum (spell), and tho there seem to have been 2 types, a common was a charcoal col that matched the hull paint and the anti-fouling paint. The difference would be slight, between the deck an the metal, you might make the metal more solid charcoal, and the deck more thin and washy. The deck grates were wood, but there are some metal hatches. Dogie's Uboat colours article (AMP website, Library) will have more indepth info.
Re hatch colors:
Same as the deck seems to look best.
I've found that a little powdered graphite (from an art store or sanded from a soft pencil (4B) applied lightly with a fingertip gives the hatch a metallic look which is pretty subtle. It looks especially good over painted rust as it tones the rust down a bit. You might want to try some tests off the model first. I think you'll like the result.
This is a nice finishing touch to any metal surface, particularly edges of the tank huls.
I use the range of pencils from Derwent, from 2B- 6B. Check the art store for led pencil- it works best.
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Same as the deck, from what I can gather. The deck was wood treated with carblinoulieoumbumdum (spell), and tho there seem to have been 2 types, a common was a charcoal col that matched the hull paint and the anti-fouling paint. The difference would be slight, between the deck an the metal, you might make the metal more solid charcoal, and the deck more thin and washy. The deck grates were wood, but there are some metal hatches. Dogie's Uboat colours article (AMP website, Library) will have more indepth info.
Re hatch colors:
Same as the deck seems to look best.
I've found that a little powdered graphite (from an art store or sanded from a soft pencil (4B) applied lightly with a fingertip gives the hatch a metallic look which is pretty subtle. It looks especially good over painted rust as it tones the rust down a bit. You might want to try some tests off the model first. I think you'll like the result.
This is a nice finishing touch to any metal surface, particularly edges of the tank huls.
I use the range of pencils from Derwent, from 2B- 6B. Check the art store for led pencil- it works best.
I bought a small container of powdered graphite at an art store years ago (About the size of a can of catfood) and still have plenty left. It also looks good when applied lightly on an edge where two metal surfaces come together at an angle, on weld seams, tread plates, bolt heads and the edges of dive planes and rudders. For those who have used metallic steel -or other metallic paints to create raw metal edges you might want to give the graphite a try.
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You can also by it as a lubricant in a squeeze bottle, at hardware stores and if not in yurs, then an industrial supply place. Be careful if you get the squeeze bottle, it comes out in a cloud!
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Hey mates, I'm back! University really gave me a hard time this last cuatrimester (my first in fact) so I didn't have much time for modelling. But I'm in winter holidays now and work on my boat was resumed. I'll give you a brief update:
-CG is weathered and glued to the deck, the decals are placed, only Flak and lifebelts missing
-Deck is pretty much done, weathering on the big bow and stern PE parts is yet to be done, I still have to add the graphite to the metal parts
-The hull is weathered and ready only a few little details missing
If we have sun tomorrow I'll take the boat out and do some photos so you can see and comment. I must warn you: my weathering is extremely basic!
'till tomorrow!
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Hey Nicolas, good to see you back on board! Can`t wait to see the pics!
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Photos!
(http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/6682/dsc06019b.jpg)
(http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/1071/dsc06018.jpg)
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/1950/dsc06017.jpg)
(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/2271/dsc06016o.jpg)
(http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/8312/dsc06015p.jpg)
(http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/2755/dsc06014r.jpg)
(http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9011/dsc06013.jpg)
(http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/1105/dsc06012.jpg)
Don't be to hard with me, painting is my worst aspect!
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Great Job Bracco....I like it.
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very nice, thanks for posting
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I'm glad you like it! I'll get back to work once I return from my vacations.
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I like it too! Whats the next step?
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Jan! I'm glad you like it! how's U711 coming along?
Next step is correcting little painting mistakes all along the model, finishing the AA armament, doing the anchor and the rigging.
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I`m curious about it!
Event though I don`t post my boats progress that often, work continues. Right now, i`m busy with the piping on the ph and combining the nautilus deck with the modellbrass deck... Can`t see the finishing line yet! :P
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like to see that piping
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Hi Nicolas, your uboot looks really great. It must be a challenge juggling school and model building. You have done yourself proud with this build my friend.
Cheers,
Ernest
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Hi Ernest! Glad to have you back.
At the time I'm in my first year at university and I have to say that it is a very time consuming hobby, ha-ha! U-1023 is not finished yet, I still have to add some minor detail, the flak armament and the rigging. I'll get back to it once the quatrimester is over.
I'm very glad you like my work!
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hello Nicolas
Very nice works that you made on the 1023!!It is the one that I wanted to make in1/72 ,before choosing to make the 826
On the other hand and it is not of your fault,the kiosk supplied by revell is not good , he does not correspond for the 1023, nothing that the shelter for the magnetic compass is not the good . He(revell) gives the decoration, But details are not good!!!.It is similar for the model to the 72em,what my to decide to make parts in resin!!!
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk167/lebosco/1023.jpg)
On the foredeck ,he three lids there(1,2,3 red)And apparently a helm?? is between both supports of cable (A red)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk167/lebosco/10234-2.jpg)
But your model not less very beautiful and very convincing !!!
best regards
Nicolas
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"A" is the (are the) aft antenna cable supports...aft had a set of 2 wires:
(http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/final/fin_tower_rear.jpg)
(http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/u557/images/fin_rope.jpg)
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"A" is the (are the) aft antenna cable supports...aft had a set of 2 wires:
Hi rockket
I wanted to speak about the crossbar (between marks)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk167/lebosco/a-3.jpg)
regards
le bosco Nicolas
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Nicolas,
The three "lids" on the foredeck are the tops of watertight compartments that are normally used as far as I know to keep inflatable rafts. (Zodiacs(US) or Avon(UK) only I'm sure the Germans must have had their own brand name for them).
Most U-boats had 4 of these containers although obviously from your picture some had three. When you don't see them on the foredeck, it usually means that they compartments are just a bit smaller and the 'lids' are under hatches on the deck. Some boats also had such compartments at the back end of the turmumbau (conning tower) sticking horizontally towards the aft of the boat.
I'm sure that depending onthe mission, they didn't always carry inflatables but would have whatever inside them that was needed but would be too bulky to put inside the pressure hull. Things like extra ammunition, clothing for spies or perhaps even small arms for raiding parties or extra food for a longer mission.
As for the crossbar between the jumpwire supports at the stern, that's exactly what it looks like to me too. I've never seen it before, but it looks like something meant to strengthen the supports for some reason.
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Great work Nicolas, i like it a lot... Great painting ! :)
Cheers,
Laurent.
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Weird, yes, I agree must be a cross bar, tho very strange. here's a shot of the antenna rig, side-on, from Dougie:
(http://amp.rokket.biz/waterlinebig.shtml)
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Twin 20mm flak guns are done and glued in place:
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6818/dsc063810.jpg)
(http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8955/dsc063830.jpg)
(http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9012/dsc06384f.jpg)
(http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8769/dsc06385k.jpg)
Working on the 37mm now... Hope you like it!
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Looking good Bracco.
Ernest
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37mm is done:
(http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/9827/dsc06386i.jpg)
(http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9284/dsc063870.jpg)
(http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/7424/dsc06389z.jpg)
(http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8485/dsc06390u.jpg)
hope you like it!
Nicolas
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Nicolas,
Very Nice! Crisp lines. Shields look excellent!
Cheers!
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Great job on the 37mm Bracco. I like the deck to.
Ernest
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Hello everybody, motivated by Karel's masterpice I took U-1023 out of the shelve and gathered strenght to work on it. I added a scum line and some seaweed trying to emulate Karel's technique. I'm also reworking the painting to make it look more weather-beaten, like the late war boat she was. initial plans for the rigging have been drawn and I'm looking forward to finish the model.
Tomorrow I'll post some pictures since the sun has already gone down.
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Hello everybody. The light outside was nice so I did some photos of U-1023 where you can see the seaweed I added, I've also darkened the upper hull a bit since it was too light. Should I add anything to the lower hull or is it ok the way it is? I'm open to all comments, opinions, recommendations, etc.
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3125/dsc06948ql.jpg)
(http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/3008/dsc06947c.jpg)
(http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7227/dsc06949qv.jpg)
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/7510/dsc06950ev.jpg)
(http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/2596/dsc06951.jpg)
(http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/1209/dsc06952q.jpg)
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/3725/dsc06953q.jpg)
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Bracco,
the seeweed looks good but there is one point:
be carefull with rust below the waterline, there wasn`t much rust there because the lack of oxigen.
Of course there was rust on some places even under water, but this rust should be dark, almost black.
By airbrushing some different shades of grey on the hull, you can give the hull a bit more `depth`.
On this pic you can see the variety of shades (and stains) on the hull:
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2h7nrqa.jpg)
Karel
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Bracco, i'd love to see your pics but there is something wrong with imageshack... Or is it my laptop ?
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Karel, thanks for your observation. The weathering was done almost half a year ago and at that time I didn't have that knoweledge. Right now I'm working on adding some grey shading as you told me but removing the rust seems very hard at this stage, so I'll have to live with it. Once I'm done with the shading I'll post some photos of it.
Pepper: I'm not sure what the problem could be, is anybody else unable to see the photos?
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She looks amazing bracco! I think in some respects there would be rust below the waterline once she was removed from the water and dry docked. It certainly would not take long for the oxidization process to begin. I suppose it would all depend on your depiction of her. Either way she looks great!
Regards,
T
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Hello everybody, I've been working on U-1023 weathering below the water line trying to do what Karel suggested. I added some light grey streaks as you can see in the photos. Tell me what you think of it!
(http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/5017/dsc06968.jpg)
(http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1130/dsc06971dt.jpg)
(http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/3780/dsc06970g.jpg)
(http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/6923/dsc06969a.jpg)
(http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/6052/dsc06966z.jpg)
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Bracco,
Can you see what a big effect this shadowing gives ;) In my opinion it looks much more realistic now, well done :)
Karel
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Indeed it does look much better Karel. Should I give a touch of black to the rusted areas below the waterline? What do you think about the weathering of the upper hull?
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Hi gents,
Nicolas, great job of U 1023, I like the weathering. Weathering below the waterline is really difficult, primarily because we don't have colour shots showing exactly what the real boats looked like down there.
One thing that should be considered on weathering of U-boats. There's a big difference between early war boats and late war boats. Before the snort was fitted the boats spent 90+% on the surface so they weathered pretty much like a surface vessel.
But when the snort was fitted this changed. Yes, when in port the late boats would weather like a surface vessel. But on patrol, by necessity they would spend most of the time underwater. During this time period on patrol the upper hull would weather just like the lower hull (ie. underwater weathering).
Cheers,
Dougie
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Work has begun on the rigging, I've already built the fore turnbuckles for the CG. They are a bit too thick but they're the best I could do. Will post some photos when I've got time.
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News from the dockyard: U-1023 is 99% completed! The only thing that remains to be done is the Naxos antenae wich was damaged long time ago, along with some minor areas that have to be re-brushed. The base is also unpainted. Rigging turned out better than what I expected but it's not high level.
Photos will be uploaded tomorrow or someday this week!
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standing by...and almost congrats (saving for when 100% complete!)
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Can`t wait to see the pictures ;)
Karel
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I took some quick shots today, their quality is very poor in my opinion. From up close the rigging doesn't look good but if you take a few steps back it creates the illusion pretty well. Check it yourselves:
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07870.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07869.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07868.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07866.jpg)
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The best photo looks distorted when I load it through here so if you want to check it here's the link:
http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/?action=view¤t=DSC07872.jpg
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Some nice work there. I especially like the line of barnacles (?) just below the painted waterline, about where the boat would sit when fully surfaced. That adds a lot of realism. Maybe if you could get a bit of greenish/brownish scum/algae in the same area? However, a northern boat wouldn't have as much there as a southern boat because of the colder water.
The rust is well done too. It's there, and obvious that the boat has been out, but not much that it looks neglected.
Another thing I like is the attachment points on the deck for the aft jump-wire supports. I don't think I've seen that on any other builds, but it looks right.
The deck colour is good too.
You're right that the rigging of the jump-wires isn't all that great. Since you know, I won't belabour it. One notable point is that the turnbuckles are wayyyyy too big.
I'd also suggest a bit more wear and rust on and around the anchor. If used even once, it would have scraped the paint off the reinforcing roll at the bottom of the 'well', and the anchor itself would have lost most of its paint quickly when used too.
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Pat, thanks for your comments. I'm dissapointed with the rigging but I couldn't think of anything better with my current skills, anyway I think it's better than having used the stock parts.
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Congrats for the lovely boat. Thw wooden deck rendering is amazing.
keep up the excellent work!
SG
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I think youve done a great job mate. Lovely boat, and if mine comes out near as good, I`ll be dead chuffed ;)
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Indeed very nice so far, the deck looks perfect ;)
Karel
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Very nice. The chipped paint and rust, yes, Pat says it well! And the deck, a real miniature! Everyone, click on the link tot he pic that distorts, it's worth it.
Well Done!
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Naxos antenna is in place and so two years of work come to and as U-1023 is completed. It's been a long and hard journey, filled with moments of satisfaction and others during which I wanted to throw the boat through the window. I learned a lot with this build, the first one in which I tried advanced techniques both of painting and building. Though I'm not wholly satisfied with the rigging and the finishing touches I'm glad happy with the final result, now I can look forward to achiving better results with future boats.
I have to thank Jan, Raul Gonzalez Melian and Ariel Pelayo without whom this build couldn't have been possible, and thanks go to all of you who commented, criticized, and helped me during this process.
Photos:
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07873.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07874.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07876.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07877.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07880.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07884.jpg)
U-1023 next to it's little brother U-410:
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07893.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/DSC07894.jpg)
You can check more photos here:
http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/n_bracco/
The base remains to be done, and when the oportunity presents itself I'll take the boat to my aunt's house (big garden with pool, great for taking photos, and Nikon D90 too) and take the final photos which will be presented here.
As for the future, I'm already working on a VIIC 1/144 with the Griffon PE attempting to represent U94. There's also an age of the sail vessel in the yard: the sloop Independence from Artesania Latina (yep, I'm taking my first steps in wooden sailing ships too) so you'll still be hearing from me.
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Bracco, if you start building wooden sailing ships, you're going to learn a LOT about rigging LOL. I built such wooden ship models for years before coming back to plastic kits since I was always interested in U-boats.
If you ever need help/suggestions with the wooden boats, don't be afraid to send me a PM. I've got a library of perhaps 40 books on sailing ships and ship models.
One thing that really adds to realism is to get the butt planking pattern right. It's called a 5-step pattern, and I think I've mentioned it in one of the threads here about Bismark. Rigging of course is what everybody notices in sailing ship models, and there's lots of techniques to learn with that too.
Keep up the good work. You've built an excellent model. And now that I see more of the hull in your recent pic, the barnacles and wear at and below the waterline look even better.
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Pat I'm glad you like my boat, and thanks for your comments! I'll definitely ask you as soon as questions arise regarding wooden boats, and I'd really like to see some photos of your models!