AMP - Accurate Model Parts
SEA => SUBS: Uboats => TYPE VII => Topic started by: Katuna on 06 Jun , 2019, 13:47
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It was suggested that I start a build page so here it is. Please be patient as my availability of spare time is somewhat limited. I'm hardly a master modeler (not even close) and I'm coming off of a roughly 35 year hiatus of building, other than a stint of model railroading for about 5 years. For some unknown reason I thought it would be a wise idea to jump into this kit with only a 1/35 Polish TKS tankette as a warm up. It proved to be about as challenging as the U-boat kit. So tiny!
A little history on U-371 and why I picked it as my focus. I always like doing something unique (hence the tankette) and I didn't just want to build another U-559. I had watched a couple builds online and they looked great but I wanted something different so, I started researching U-boats and came across Uboat.net. Not having any idea what patrol area I wanted, I picked U-371 simply because I liked the number. After that scientific approach, I began researching the boat. I love researching a project and while finding information on a somewhat unknown boat was a challenge, I found its story intriguing. It had a fairly long career as U-boats go, consisting of 18 patrols, most of them in the Med. Most were under the command of Waldemar Mehl. He and most of his crew left U-371 after the 17th patrol. It was sunk on the next patrol.
The boat was an early war Type VIIC and had been retrofitted with a Turm IV tower after its 14th patrol. Refitted with twin 20mm on the upper platform and initially a quad 20mm on the lower (there is conflicting info in the interrogation report as to whether it had the quad 20 or single 37mm at the time of the sinking). I am choosing to model the boat during its 15th patrol.
There are only two photos of U-371 that can positively be connected to that particular boat. The insignia of Waldemar Mehl, a dragonfly riding a torpedo on the front of the original Turm and a screenshot from a forum thread on Uboat.net of the insignia on the side of the Turm IV which also had armor boxes added. This was exciting to find as I would have not known there were armor boxes and adding that to the model only increases its uniqueness. Unfortunately, I've never been able to find the video that this picture was pulled from. The post is about 10 years old and the YouTube link is dead.
So, hopefully I don't embarrass myself too much with my build skills. My hearts in the right place anyway.
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Hi Katuna
Welcome. You have an ambitious challenge ahead of you.
The Trumpeter kit is woefully inaccurate. However it slightly makes up for that by being the only 1/48 interior and also the parts although inaccurate fit together beautifully.
In regards being another U552.
I considered that too as there are hundreds of wonderful (and some not) U552 mainly exterior builds out there in all scales.
But in regards to the Trumpeter U552 most are built out of the box with all the Trumpeter inaccuracies.
I cant understand some very skilled builders who build it OOB showing wonderful finishes and skills but the model looks rubbish due to inaccuracies.
One builder had a beautiful finished kit OOB on Ebay trying to sell it for $2000 Euros!!!.
Any true UBoat fan or expert wouldn't want it .
I estimate from looking at over 2000 pictures and videos that the Trumpeter kit is about 10% accurate.
The only builds I have come across so far that are at least trying to improve the kit are mine and Biancos Fillipo.
In regards to my build I have taken the stance that because I am not an exert builder and due to the fact that some parts of the Trump kit are beyond my repair skills that I'm trying to make a more detailed model that although not always 100 percent accurate to experts will give me some personal satisfaction.
If I get from Trumpeters 10% to maybe 70% accurate Ill be happy.
I'm also using "artistic licence" to improve the kit but not always achieve 100 % accuracy.
An example is adding all the underfloor pipes and valves. It is beyond me to build and add everything but adding some detail for effect will enhance.
It frustrates me that I'm not quite skills wise up to the task. Maybe one day someone will do a 100 percent accurate build.
That would be great to see.
Good luck.
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Raymic - You and I are on the same page. I know I'm not at the skill level I would like, I like a good challenge. 35 years ago I was a mediocre builder and I was fine with that. However, what was available then compared to now is a day and night comparison. I watched several different builders on YouTube doing things I never imagined all those years ago. I took several of the techniques I saw and incorporated them into my little tankette and was pleasantly surprised at how well I picked up on those techniques.
There was a build on a forum by a guy from England and he was doing a fabulous job but he got fed up by all the inaccuracies that he just gave up on it. He has a YouTube channel now and he's a great modeler. I really wish he would go back to the some day. I rib him about it but he won't budge. Here's the site if you're interested.
http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=264400&page=1&ord=0
I will never be able to replicate every pipe, nut and bolt on this boat but I'll give it a good try.
Here's a pic of my tiny little tank in 1/35 scale. I added an interior kit which was very basic. I designed the engine and had a friend 3D print it for me. The spent shells are just bits of brass wire.
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Jeez, again with the upside down pics!
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Ok, I've got this figured out now. Note to self: Hold the camera right side up, idiot.
So, I decided to start with the Engine Room first. For me it seemed like a good place to start (oh, you silly fool). A lot of detail needs to be added to make it a reasonable representation of the actual boat. The first thing is to create another set of ribs. As described by Raymic, this kit is woefully inaccurate, henceforth referred to a WI where appropriate. As I'm a bit rusty in my scratch building skills, I decided to put the home made ribs in the rear and bring the kit pieces out front. This addition alone will make any build of this kit better as it fills a huge void in an otherwise densely crowded section of the boat.
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Initially I intended to recreate the lower half of the Stbd. engine. However, SOMEONE stole my idea ;D (most likely before I ever thought of it). So, I had intended to render some of the tanks and piping but now I think I will try and get as close to the actual layout as possible. Using NZSnowman's and others 3D drawings, original line drawings and wonderful help from Tore, I'm now getting ready to start. I ordered several sizes of both lead and brass wire and picked up different styrene shapes. Hopefully it will come out reasonably well.
Here are the center and Stbd. tanks. The Port tank is only the first cell as that is all you can see. I need to do a little more mock up and back light it to see if I need to create the top of the Port tank. The brass wire was just some I had on hand and it represents some 1" (.5mm) piping to the center tank.
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Oh yeah, since I figured out how to solve my upside down issue...
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Here's a small sample of the drawings I'm working with. I'm in the process of color coding the black & white versions as it's much easier to follow. The overhead is much easier to decipher but the elevation is brain-twisting. As there is no scale on the drawings, the pipe sizes are estimated using actual photos and working backwards to call out the different sizes. At 1/48 scale, it's pretty hard to differentiate between 1/2" and 3/4" pipe (.25 and .38mm).
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Awesome Katuna
What drawings are u using?
They look like Snowmans cads?
Do u have better shots to share?
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Hmm, I may be persuaded to post them. I'm not sure where I found all of them but I believe they are all NZSnowman's. I scrounged and scavenged everywhere for these. I have sent some messages to him on related topics but have yet to hear back from him. It's been a while now. Hopefully he won't mind. If it's a problem Mods, please take them down.
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Only a little time to work on things this weekend. Making up the engine dry sump drain back valves on the center tank. The valves themselves didn't come out too bad. Used a build up of Mr. Surfacer to get the curvature on the bottom of the valve. I still need to work on the valve stem towers a little but they're getting close. Need to make flanges too. Lots and lots of flanges (gulp!). Put a coat of paint on the access covers so I can scribe a line to layout the bolt pattern.
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Hi Katuna,
do you know the model of my friend David, a German modeler ?
I think there is not a better modeler than him...
Look at his masterpiece...
P.S. : David, I hope you will not angry because I posted some photos of your model without your permission...
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Filippo - Please tell me he is modeling in 1/18 scale. If that is 1/48 then I'm just going to put mine back in the box and go back to 1/35 scale tanks. ;D
Seriously, that is simply amazing. Would it be possible to get larger size images as it looks like several of my questions have been solved as to where certain pipes go. Thank you for posting those images. There are some incredibly talented modelers out there.
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Hi Katuna, as you can see from the eighth image, where you can see David's fingers, the model is in 1/48 scale, like ours, is the Hachette model, widely detailed ....
However you are right, I too am stunned by David's ability ...
However I too try to defend myself, with my U-552 ... :) :) :)
I asked to David if he can send to me high resolution images....
Stay tuned...
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I am humbled. Thank you for checking on the images.
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Hi Katuna and Fillipo
That's a stunning super detail.
I would love to see some high res too.
Does he have a build online?
Cheers
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Hi Katuna and Raymic,
the link to the site of U-96 Hachette building is this:
[size=78%]http://www.mmodell.de/forum/index.php/Thread/12223-Hachette-U-96-Gemeinschaftsbaubericht/?pageNo=1 (http://www.mmodell.de/forum/index.php/Thread/12223-Hachette-U-96-Gemeinschaftsbaubericht/?pageNo=1)[/size]
but first a tip: if you are weak of heart do not look, because the skill of David and the beauty of his model could make you want to leave your building ...
Cheers
Filippo
P.S. : to see the images you have to register to the site before...
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Hi Fillipo
I hope all is OK with your wife?
Is this build David Geister's?
It is frustrating as the Site hasn't approved me yet so I cant see his great pics.
Do you have high res ones or can you download them from the site for us and share?
CORRECTION JUST BEEN APPROVED
cheers
Raymic
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Hi Raymic, yes, David Geister is the masterpiece author...
The resolution of the site’s photos is that one of the photos that I posted...
I hope that David will send to me other photos in higher resolution...if so I will share them with you...
Cheers
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Thanks Fillipo. High res would be great.
Ps Its a shame David only built the Hacette one as its only the Engine room and the Control room.
It would be great to see him build all 7 zones with his great detailing.
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Filippo - I just went through al of the picture of David's build. I think I need a shovel to pick my jaw up off of the floor! Unbelievable detail. Too bad he isn't applying that to the Trumpeter model, although we don't need the competition. Absolutely brilliant.
I need to find a way to model those valve handle housings. I tried but I need to come up with something different.
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Hi Katuna
David said he molded his.
I made my valve to see how it would go. Very time consuming.
Im going to look at molding and maybe even by a 3d printer to give it a go
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Hi Katuna and Raymic,
it isn't too much difficult to build the valves by scratch using plasticard: it's only takes a long time and patience...
Raymic's first attempt seems very good to me...
Keep it up...
:) :) :)
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Raymic - That valve assembly is fantastic! Can I subcontract you to build all my valves ;D ?
I found these on Shapeways. Not a bad price, especially for Shapeways ($8.89 USD for 20). Unfortunately they are only in 6". Would love some in 2",3" and 4".
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Well, it's been several weeks since I've been able to get back to the bench. Life runs you over when you're not looking sometimes. Anyway, I finally feel like I've gotten a proper start to this build. I sat down and put the engine together. I was surprised that there was considerably less profanity than I had anticipated. I only broke one piece of the delicate piping (which was easily repaired) and somehow I only dropped one part. I was a larger piece of piping so the carpet monster didn't have a chance to haul it back to his lair before I could find it.
It actually goes together reasonably well. The one thing I was really disappointed in however were the injectors. I can't understand why manufactures insist on including photo etch where there doesn't need to be PE. It would have gone together so much nicer if the top of the injector would have just had the flange detail cast in. As it is, the sprue connection is right where the PE goes and getting a square surface is nearly impossible (for my wonky eyes anyway). Oh well, a little Mr. Surfacer and it will look fine I'm sure.
I made a neat little stand for it too since it doesn't sit flat on the bench. Tried a few new weathering products while I was at it. Yeah, I'm going to need to practice my technique a bit more before I put any on the model.
Now it's time to get a little more detail on there. Hopefully I can get a couple hours this weekend.
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Got a few minutes to sneak away last night. This came out better than I had hoped.
I guess I have low expectations. It wasn't exactly rocket surgery. :P
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A little (and I mean LITTLE!) more detail. My eyes aren't what they used to be and my fingers are even worse. It was loads of fun trying to clean the sprue connection points. Thank goodness they were on the bottom.
Hey, I hit 100 posts! A milestone.
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Looks great Katuna.
Ref Nuts. I have tried them all
Best are
1. Meng. Plastic so easy to attach
2. Verlinden Contactless. No longer around unfortunately
3. AM-Works contactless. 3 types. 1 is LW35027. No filing......
All 3 are awesome
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Those are great. Why is it when you try and search something like that, you just get the same 3 or 4 manufactures. I've never seen the PE nut/bolt sets. The ones I used are Tichy Train Group. I wanted the 3 dimensional effect in such a prominent area. Thanks for the heads up on those.
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Well, the engine is basically finished. With the exception of a few little details it's ready for paint (Note the two broken off pipes). Making the missing arm for the lubricator just about put me over the edge. I had drilled a piece of 0.5mm plastic rod for the rocker arm connection and inserted a piece of brass wire. When cutting the wire to length, I cupped it in my hand and snip, somehow it found an opening and went supersonic. A simple piece of bent brass wire replaced it but it proved even more of a challenge. An hour of frustration for one little piece that only a handful of people would ever notice if it were missing. Such is the game we play.
And while I'm grumbling, why is it that whenever you search everywhere for a photo of something you need to scratch build, you can't find anything other than partial, obstructed views? Then, when you build it to your best guess, you immediately find a perfectly clear image and find you did it wrong? Such was the flywheel/vibration dampener. Another Trumpeter omission. Found afterwards it should have 12 stiffening gussets like a clock, not six. Hells bells! >:(
I think rather than the usual green, I'm going to go with a light gray with a greenish tone. I looked at several paint charts before going to the hobby shop and I settled on Tamiya IJN gray. However, upon getting it home and under different light, it's too much of a neutral gray. I could mix it with some green I suppose but I may go back and get one of the other colors I looked at and thought was too green.
Now onto mounting the oil coolers (need to cast a copy) and making the deckplate supports. I'm never going to finish this thing...
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Wanted to get started on the piping details but I thought first, it might be a good idea to get the deck plates at least roughed in so that I would know my workable space.
I had found this decking from Eduard a while back as I was completely dissatisfied with Trumpeters attempt. I think it scales out around a foot thick. Plus, it has the tread pattern of the museum decking, not the original (thanks for doing all that in depth research Trumpeter).
I have found differing information but one source I found said that the engine room and I believe the E-Motor section had the diamond tread pattern deck. I believe (I don't have it in front of me) the areas in front of the torpedo tubes and the Control room have the dimpled type tread pattern. In fact, if you look at photos of U-995's control room, in the aft Stbd. corner, over the bilge valves there is an original section of plating that was used as a step. I guess it was to be able to reach some valves. It has that square dimple pattern. Eduard also had that pattern available.
I trimmed it out with Evergreen angle. came out ok I think.
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Very Nice work and Thanks for sharing.
Later Tim
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Good work Katuna...
unfortunately my wife died, brain cancer did not give her a chance ... it will take some time before I want to take up the model again ... in the meantime I follow you all and greet you ...
Filippo
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My condolences to you and your family.
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Filippo
OMG Sorry to hear this. Thoughts and Prayers to you and your Family.
Later Tim
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Filppo - So very, very sorry for your loss. All of our prayers and thoughts go to you. We will be here when you are ready.
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Just a little progress last night. I narrowed the aft end of the forward decking so that I could add in a taper to the main walkway. Of course Trumpeter did not angle the engines like they should have so I will fake it a bit. This material is so hard to work with given how thin it is. It is so easy to accidently bend it. It's paper thin. Still need to add the joint lines.
Somehow my crew have already managed to spill something on the deck.
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Hello Filippo,
My sincere condolences to you and your family.
Best regards,
Dougie
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After almost a month of no activity, I was finally able to sit down for a few hours and make a little progress. I've been thrashing on my father in laws hot rod to get it finished (my top priority) as well as a paint job on a 1/8 scale RC Corsair for a buddy of mine. No rest for the wicked.
You know, some days I question why I started down the path I chose to take with this kit! My eyes and fingers don't work like they used to. Back in the 90's I was very heavy into model railroading in HO scale. I could pull all-nighters if I got wrapped up in something, and that was at 1/87 scale. Now, I have magnifying glasses, magnifying lights, bright overhead lighting...I STILL can't see what I'm doing. When I can see, my fingers won't do what I tell them to. But I digress...
Made up some frame ribs for the forward part on the compartment. I also made up the upright supports for the deck plates. In designing them I took a little from here, a little from there. are they accurate? Maybe, maybe not but, they're a damn sight better than what 'ol Trumpy provided so I'm happy.
There are additional supports that go in the middle of the main walkway but I just have everything dry fitted at the moment and they wouldn't all cooperate for the camera. I just need to make one more for the aftmost support. I also need to add in some cross bracing, especially on the forward uprights. The decking is just sitting on top for the pics. Still need to square up some things. I need to remake the main walkway as well. I don't like the extreme taper I put on it. Much to dramatic. I need to trim it down to nearly parallel.
Then it's on to piping! >:( Why oh why?!?
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Wow, its been a while. I finally had a few minutes to sit down on Sun. and continue with the deckplates. I had made up the majority of the upright supports and I secured the pieces located over the waste oil tank into place. It's my best guess as to the layout of the supports given the limited literature. It seems as though there should be a support in the center but there are 2 pairs of valves on top of the tank with stem risers and another support would interfere with that.
I think that I may be overthinking a lot of this build.
I also remade the central part of the walkway. I had tapered it to try and give the image of the engines angled inward aft. This didn't work as I had hoped. Also, while studying some drawings, I found that there is a dogleg in the walkway on either side just aft of the main engine block. I had extra material fortunately so I made a new walkway. I'm much happier with this configuration.
That's all I managed to get done for now. I'm trying to make a decent copy of the oil sump as Trumpeter only has one. My attempts with Miliput in a Blue Stuff mold are iffy at best. Out of three I have one that is salvageable. Core shift is the main problem. I think I may try a silicone mold with liquid resin for future attempts. I need a bunch of compressed air tanks!
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Hi Katuna,
I am not yet ready to resume modeling, the loss of my wife is still a too recent wound ... it will take some time to reorganize my life.
However I follow with great interest the building reports on the Trumpeter's U552, especially your one... a question: can you put the Eduard's deck plating link: I would like to buy it too ...
Best wishes.
Filippo
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Hi Katuna
I am not yet ready to resume modeling, the loss of my wife is still too recent a wound ... it will take some time to reorganize my life.
However I follow with great interest the construction reports on the Trumpeter U552, especially your ... a question: you can put the Eduard deck plating link: I would like to buy it too ...
Best wishes.
Filippo
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Hi Katuna,
I am not yet ready to resume modeling, the loss of my wife is still too recent a wound ... it will take some time to reorganize my life.
However I follow with great interest the construction reports on the Trumpeter U552, especially your ... a question: you can put the Eduard deck plating link: I would like to buy it too ...
Best wishes.
Filippo
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Filippo - Only time can heal your wounds. I'm happy that you are interested in my build. I'm quite honored by that, given your great skill level.
Here is the link for the Eduard Big Ed set. You can also get each fret separately.
https://www.eduard.com/ships-and-submarines/other/dkm-u-boat-viic-u-552-1-48.html?cur=2
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Well it's been awhile since I've had anything to post. This kit will take it out of you, especially if you're superdetailing. Our nephew got me an old Monogram Patton tank for Christmas so I thought I'd knock it together over a weekend for a change of scenery. Wrong!! This thing was very toy-like and, after a while I realized it was originally designed to go along with your little green army men when you were a kid. I've learned a lot of new techniques in the last few weeks.
Here's a couple pics for giggles. I'm fairly happy with it. Now it's back to the salt mines of U-371
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Just a small update on the boat. I was never happy with the oil cooler I cast using Blue Stuff and epoxy putty. It was too large (not sure how it grew in the mold, but it did) and it wasn't shaped very well. I went with a different approach using a silicone caulk mold and 2 part liquid resin. I'm much happier now ;D ! I can finally start progressing on the under-deck piping and details. I also now have a reliable way to cast all the compressed air tanks that are missing from the model.
Honest, I didn't cough that up.