I finally took the time to write my own personal review of the new Archer 1/72 U-boat Super Detail Set on my
U-673 build site:
Review of Archer 1:72 U-boat Super Detail Set (AR88023)by Glenn Cauley (Canada)IntroductionThe
Archer 1/72 U-boat Super Detail Set (AR88023) (referred to as the “Archer set” in this review) was designed for use with Revell of Germany’s popular 1/72 scale VIIC and VIIC/41 U-boat models (kits 05015 and 05045, respectively). The 3-sheet set contains 3-dimensional resin rivets and weld beads on clear decal film to replace details lost to sanding or to correct the kit details.
While building my model of the
U-673 Type VIIC “Flak-trap” U-boat, I used the WEM 1/72 Type VII U-boat Flood, Drain and Vent Hole Set (PE7232) to correct kit mistakes. This necessitated grafting some very large PE pieces to the kit hull. As such, I ended up wiping out a large amount of rivets from the tip of the bow back to about ½” behind the rearward edge of the bow torpedo doors. With that large amount of rivets gone, I needed an easy way to replace them. So, my primary use of the Archer set was to replace the large amounts of rivets I lost on my U-673 model due to cutting, scraping, puttying, and sanding.
As such, my review focuses on the replacement of rivets on the U-boat model. Other aspects of the Archer set include the replacement or addition of realistic hull weld beads, as the weld beads on the kit hull more resemble overscale raised panel lines rather than weld beads.
While some may read this review and say that my opinion is more than a little biased — seeing as the Archer set was created from collaboration between Archer Fine Transfers and me — U-boat modelers have only to use the Archer set to see how it provides an elegant & intelligent solution for enhancing their U-boat models.
DescriptionIncluded in the Archer set are three decal sheets containing various amounts of straight rivet rows for each of the 10 rivet groups, special bow rivet patterns, special weld bead patterns, and one sheet full of straight weld beads. All of the items are clearly identified on the sheets. While there are not enough rivets to completely replace ALL rivets, there is certainly a goodly amount of each rivet group to replace many rivets in areas of the hull where large modifications may be done.
The
full-colour, highly-detailed placement instructions provide colour-coded information that let you know where to apply welds & rivets. The first two profile images show where to apply standard & additional weld beads on the hull. The third final profile image shows how different “rivet groups” are distributed throughout the hull and conning tower. A rivet group is a group of rivets that have unique size and spacing; there are 10 rivet groups in the model kit and a matching 10 rivet groups in the Archer set. When replacing rivets in a particular area of the U-boat, it is important to apply the correct rivet group so the new rivet rows you apply have the same size and spacing as other rivets in the same area.
Using the SetAfter priming the hull, I used a new kit hull as reference to lay out the locations of the rivet rows on the bow. I used thin pencil lines for the layout lines, which will be covered when I paint the hull. Departing from the Archer instructions slightly, I airbrushed on a thin layer of Future Floor Wax to the area I would be applying the rivets to… which was pretty much the entire bow!
For my first rivet application, I chose to add a short row of “group C” rivets — small, closely-spaced rivets ahead of the bow torpedo doors. The rivet row I would add first was, say, 10mm long.
After finding “group C” rivets on the appropriate decal sheet, I cut out a 10mm-long rivet row — cutting close to the rivets to minimize the amount of decal film. The Archer set uses thin Microscale decal film which is very easy to cut through with a sharp hobby knife. Carefully handling the decal with tweezers, I dipped it into warm water for 5-10 seconds, and then set it onto tissue to absorb the excess water. After another 10sec the adhesive had softened enough to release the decal from the backing paper. I carefully slid the decal off the sheet a bit to ensure it wasn’t sticking too much, and to avoid ripping the thin decal film. Since the decal film is so thin and the section I cut was so narrow, I had to be careful that the decal did not fold over onto itself when it was hanging off the edge of the backing paper. When that did happen, I just had to dip the decal back into water to allow it to unfold… then I repositioned the decal on the backing sheet again.
As per my usual decaling process, I brushed a heavy amount of Micro Set (not Micro Sol) decal solution onto the hull where the decal would go; Micro Set acts as a wetting agent to prevent the decal from sticking to the model too quickly. If the decal stuck in the wrong place, I simply applied more Micro Set and the decal became unstuck so I could move it into the proper position on the model. A few prods with my brush (used to apply the Micro Set) and tweezers and voila! the new rivet row was in place. I used tissue to wick away the excess Micro Set, and then I applied Micro Sol to the entire rivet row to soften the decal film completely. Considering that the surface of the model was smooth with no crevasses or uneven surfaces, I could have probably gotten away with using only Micro Set to apply the rivet decals, but it was a personal choice to use Micro Sol as the final step.
Lo and behold, I had just added my first replacement rivet row in a very quick & easy manner! The process is pretty much the same for the rest of the rivet rows I had to apply: mark guidelines on the model, identify the proper rivets, measure, cut, apply… next.
Applying longer rivet rows has its unique issues I had to watch out for: tearing of the decal film, bunching during application, folding over onto itself. Not to mention it is more difficult to make long rivet rows perfectly straight. Though these issues were not insurmountable, it takes time and patience like any delicate decaling operation. When one of the decals (inevitably) tore along its length, I simply had to apply the decal sections one at a time and ensure they were aligned properly. Micro Set became my close ally; using it allowed me to loosen partially-adhered, improperly-placed decals and try again. In the case where long rivet rows had a curve to them (such as rivet group “K” along the upper side edges of the hull at the stern) the thin decal film and narrowly-cut decals make it fairly easy to make gentle curves of straight rivet row decals.
I did not need to use the weld beads on this particular model, but it is nice to have them for later models. In fact, they are so nice it is very tempting to sand off my own weld beads and use the Archer ones!
ConclusionsDue to the nature of what you are trying to accomplish with this “decal set” a bit more work is needed to lay out where you want the rivet row decals to go.
The quality of the Archer set is superb, the instructions are informative and intuitive to use, and applying the rivet “decals” is no more difficult than applying any other waterslide decals.
All-in-all I am very happy with the Archer 1/72 U-boat Super Detail Set as it allows me to quickly and easily (remember: everything is relative) replace all of the lost rivets on my U-boat model. In my opinion, this set is well worth the money. Some may say it’s overpriced but I would rather pay a bit more for a product that does exactly what I want, and which also saves me time and frustration in the otherwise tedious task of rivet replacement by other means.
For additional pictures and more details, see my U-673 build site at
www.travel-net.com/~gcauley/U673
