Author Topic: New Member SS223 build  (Read 9770 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Grossekatz

  • Guest
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #15 on: 26 Jul , 2010, 22:45 »
the tbt's started life as the kit part I chopped off the ugly block around it then built the stands out of some spare photo etch bits I had laying around. I also added the cables and bases to them. The lenses are from the eduard set  the sunshades are small bits of stretched sprue and the handles are thin brass wire bent around what's left of the kit part. The rear tbt got its frame stand and wiring as well as some spare parts to represent the comms gear that seems to be in all the pics.  The paint work it all started off as a dark grey primer base, it also ends up being the color for the decking and roof. Then I masked and sprayed the whole thing in tamiya insignia white, its a light coat letting the dark primer through in places to add depth. The whole thing then got a dark blue/grey oil wash. once that set up I added a filter of yellow ocre, white, black  and a burnt sienna. once that was blended I gave the rivit and other small details a pin wash of black. Next I faded it to the final color with a light grey and whit paint scrub. this same scrub is also used on the decking to give that sun faded look. Then I added stains and scuffs  to the deck with a burnt umber oils. The chipping is done with a fine brush and the model masters metalizer gunmetal. This stuff is supposed to be airbrushed on but I brush it on and I relly like the affect. I focus on areas of heavy traffic first and edges where the paint would be worn easily. Then I add the small chips the the large areas. After that I pick out the spots for the large chips. I try to use as few of  the big ones as posible, a little goes a long way. The rust tones are burnt and raw sienna placed with a fine brush and then blended into streaks and stains with a large flat brush I try and accentuate  high wear areas and the larger paint chips as well as areas that water spray hits or  would run down the plating. lastly the whole thing is blended with a little bit of off white to even out the finish and give it some uniformity and add one more level of depth to the finish.   

I took some more pics today out in the sun it just needs the final touches. you can see all the pics I have here http://img413.imageshack.us/g/dsc01411e.jpg/

here are just a few





Grossekatz

  • Guest
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #16 on: 26 Jul , 2010, 22:59 »
Quote
WHOA!!! I just realized that I made a serious screw-up. There ARE several major, exterior difference between EB/ Manitowoc and Portsmouth/Mare Island boats.
First, the anchor is on the starboard side, on PNSY boats and Port on The EB boats. And the companion way, on the forward deck, is offset in the same way. But beware. On some boats, the companion way, was centerline. I was on one. But it had been Guppied, and I don't know if that was the reason. Check pictures of the boat, you're building, and see what they show.
As a side note; Silversides was built with port and starboard anchors. But the port anchors were removed, and the wells plated over, before completion.

 Yea, I have a good pic of the deck and it shows the companion way offset to the right. I actually picked the boat I was going to do off Rocketts metal deck  list, it was there as a metal deck EBCO boat. So I did some reading up on it liked the history of the boat and thought it would be an easy enough conversion because the hulls were laid out vey similar. As it turns out  the details of the fairwater are very different from a late boat to a mid war one and I spent 10+ hours adding rivits to the fairwater after I chopped off all the lockers to back date the thing. I now have a very serious love/hate relationship with Archers waterslide rivits.

Offline Siara

  • Admiral2
  • *
  • Posts: 888
  • Gender: Male
    • Master Models
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #17 on: 28 Jul , 2010, 01:30 »
Nice color mapping Grossecatz. Looking really good.

Offline Rokket

  • Administrator
  • *
  • Posts: 2,362
  • Gender: Male
  • Submarine Enthusiast
    • AMP - Accurate Model Parts
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #18 on: 28 Jul , 2010, 03:37 »
Wow, thanks for the details, love the info -and the build!
AMP - Accurate Model Parts - http://amp.rokket.biz

Offline TAS

  • Midshipman Cadet
  • *
  • Posts: 17
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #19 on: 28 Jul , 2010, 06:22 »
Great work on the Conning Tower. How about elaborating on that "love/hate" relationship with those Archer rivets.

Grossekatz

  • Guest
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #20 on: 28 Jul , 2010, 13:33 »

Quote
Great work on the Conning Tower. How about elaborating on that "love/hate" relationship with those Archer rivets.

I ended up using about half a sheet of the smallest rivits avaliable and while the affect is great it took forever to get them on right. The backer is super thin so they tend to wander all over the place especially once a coat of solvaset is on. I ended up scraping and re-doing quite allot of them much to my frustration. But they look great and are nearly the same size and have the same spacing of the kit rivits.


Offline Sniperonzolo

  • Lieutenant (jg)
  • *
  • Posts: 73
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #21 on: 10 Aug , 2010, 09:29 »
meow!
i love it!!! specially the TBT!
What about lateral navigation lights on conning tower?

great wark

Grossekatz

  • Guest
Re: New Member SS223 build
« Reply #22 on: 12 Aug , 2010, 02:50 »
Thanks, the lights are the kit part. I used them seeing as I could not find a pic that showed them relocated to the tower sides. I have been filling allot of blanks in with launch pics of Cero.
The hull is nearly ready for primer I will post some more shots once I get a coat on her.