Author Topic: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer  (Read 7072 times)

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kklee6

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #15 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 02:17 »
Thanks, Siara.

Just got the P242 at HK$55 (=4.9 Euro), not cheap but affordable.

Will experiment the filter and "hair-spray" technique on a piece of plastic.
Hopefully, I can post some photos of my "experiment" tomorrow.

One more question about model paints.
A local dealer has recently imported the "LifeColor" acrylic paints.  They have those U-boot colors Hellgrau 50 and Schiffsbodenfarbe III Grau on the list.  Are those colors good to use and "reasonably accurate" ?

Thanks.
KK


Offline Greif

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #16 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 03:05 »
Hi KK, I use Lifecolor paints almost exclusively and can confirm their uboot colors are very very accurate, as are their Luftwaffe colors.  If I may, I recommend not getting too wrapped up in trying to absolutely match historical colors.  In real life, the shading of colors varied a good deal based mainly on weathering and partly on application.  The only time any ship, vehicle or plane looked like the one next to it was right after they were painted in the factory.  And come to think of it, I don't think that even applies to uboots as most were not built in factory like conditions.  After operating at sea for any period of time exceeding a week or so, the shade each uboot's paint job was altered by the elements, some more then other depending on a variety of factors.  So in the modelling world, close is good enough, IMHO that is.

Ernest 

Thanks, Siara.

Just got the P242 at HK$55 (=4.9 Euro), not cheap but affordable.

Will experiment the filter and "hair-spray" technique on a piece of plastic.
Hopefully, I can post some photos of my "experiment" tomorrow.

One more question about model paints.
A local dealer has recently imported the "LifeColor" acrylic paints.  They have those U-boot colors Hellgrau 50 and Schiffsbodenfarbe III Grau on the list.  Are those colors good to use and "reasonably accurate" ?

Thanks.
KK



kklee6

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #17 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 03:44 »
Thank you, Ernest.

Your answer is good enough for me to get hold of some LifeColor paints.

Here in Hong Kong, most modelers use Gunze Lacquer paints (maybe most of them build Japanese kits, esp. Gundam's) but they are very toxic.  The thinner smells very badly.

Tamiya acrylic is the next popular paint, however the varieties of color are quite limited.
The newly imported LifeColor caught my attention because of the Kreigsmarine WWII sets.

KK

Offline Greif

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #18 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 05:29 »
You welcome KK,

here are a couple of pointers about using Lifecolors paints.  Make sure you stir the paint well before use.  I prime my models before painting as I have found Lifecolor paints adhere better to a primed surface.  I use the white Tamiya primer decanted for use in my airbrush.  The paints brush well; like most acrylics, it is better to build thin coats rather then trying to cover everything with one thick caot of paint.  I have found two to three coats do the job depending on the underlying color.  Small parts can be covered with one coat of paint.

When airbrushing I use the Lifecolor thinner to thin the paint, you can also use distilled or plain water.  However, the thinner has a small amount of retarder in it which prevents the paint from drying too fast and makes airbrushing easier.  As with brush painting, it is better to spray several thin coats; I normally spray 4 to 5 coats.  You can do this quickly as the paint drys very rapidly.  It is very important to use lower air pressure when airbrushing Lifecolor paints.  I have found 10-15 psi gives the best results.  To clean up I use Windex window cleaner followed by distilled water.  About every 5th cleaning I use Lifecolor Cleaner; this stuff really gets any dryed paint off!  I follow that by spraying distilled water through my airbrush as normal.  By the way, once dry the paint is dry Lifecolor thinner will not remove it.  It takes the paint about 12-24 hours to cure, depending on humidty.  Thats pretty normal for all acrylics.

Hope you enjoy the paint and if you have any other questions feel free to ask.

Ernest

kklee6

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #19 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 06:09 »
Ernest.

The information really helps new Lifecolor user like me a lot.

Just one quick question:

When airbrushing, what is the ratio of thinner to paint?

KK



Offline Greif

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #20 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 07:22 »
Hi KK, I thin mine 60:40 paint to thinner.

Ernest

Offline Rokket

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #21 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 17:19 »
Anyone ever use Mr Surfacer as a prime coat? My mate has with good results, but always interested in more info.

Hairspray - OK, just how does the chip effect work?

Thanks
AMP - Accurate Model Parts - http://amp.rokket.biz

kklee6

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #22 on: 08 Jan , 2010, 22:52 »
Anyone ever use Mr Surfacer as a prime coat? My mate has with good results, but always interested in more info.

Hairspray - OK, just how does the chip effect work?

Thanks


Most modeler, including me, here uses Mr. Surface, both the spray can and bottle, but again it's lacquer-based, and therefore very toxic.
Many says it's finer than Tamiya's primer but I have never tried Tamiya's and can't comment on it.

Regards,
KK



Offline Greif

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #23 on: 09 Jan , 2010, 03:01 »
Hi Wink, I have used Mr. Surfacer 1200 as a primer.  As KK points out it has to be thinned with lacquer thinner which makes for quite the stink as you know.  It is very fine and adheres very well to plastic that has been prepped by cleaning, in common with all primers.  I like the Tamiya primer as I think it is just as fine and does not have quite the same level of fumes.

Ernest

Anyone ever use Mr Surfacer as a prime coat? My mate has with good results, but always interested in more info.

Hairspray - OK, just how does the chip effect work?

Thanks

kklee6

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #24 on: 09 Jan , 2010, 04:03 »
Tried my first use of filter.
Interesting product and I believe I have gotten the effect I want.


Offline Pat

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Re: Question about lower hull weathering from a newcomer
« Reply #25 on: 09 Jan , 2010, 10:10 »
I have my own boat and hang around boatyards a lot, even travelling to places like Portsmouth Naval Yard, Philadelphia Naval Yard, etc. to look at ships and there's a couple of things I rarely, if ever see on models.

The first one is that almost ALL ships develop a scum of algae at the waterline and for the first 1/2 meter or so below the waterline.  This is usually a dark green in colour, with hints of brown and perhaps a little tint of ochre.  It's thickest right at the water edge and thins out as it goes down.  It's also almost absent on parts that are not accesible to sunlight, such as underneath the transom at the stern.  Sometimes, if a boat has been tied up to the dock for a long time (say more than a couple of months), you actually start to get long streamers of algae, almost like grass, wafting in the current.

Another thing is that there's almost always streaks of lighter colour going veritcally downwards.  I don't know what causes it, it looks almost like bird poop but it can't be under water.  Don't overdo it, it's a very faint colouring but it's almost always present and noticeable.

Finally, in salt water boats, especially those based in warmer water, there are barnacles.  They're random and usually rough in texture. They're almost always white but sometimes have a grass green sort of colour on top where a different kind of algae has grown on them.  Often they leave raised rings where the creature has been rubbed off.