U-673

[GlennCauley]

Here's where I ordered mine from:

http://www.techgsm.com/Solder_paste_for_SMD_KOKI_40g,3937.html


Many thanks to Siara for this. 

[GlennCauley]

Well, I am finally starting to prime my U-673 hull... and of course finding out all the tiny things I need to refill & putty!    I found Tamiya Surface Primer or Mr. Surfacer 500 are great pre-thinned putties that are SO easy to use. 

Thank you to everyone on their advice for primer.  I am currently using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer out of a spraycan... turns out I had a few new cans!  So far it is working fairly well, though I find it does not really bite into some of the PE pieces (esp. the lower bow vent pieces).  I may try using the Alclad II Grey Primer/Microfiller  or  Mr. Surfacer 1000.

I must say that I am relieved that all the puttying & sanding work on the bow section has resulted in a fairly smooth surface.  Once I'm happy with the finish, I'll be putting a gloss on it and then adding my Archer rivets.  I'm VERY excited about that!!!   It's very odd to see a smooth, rivet-free bow section. 

[Jeff Douglas]

Hey Glenn-as usual your work is top drawer- You Wink and Siara set the standards. My 1/72 Corvette project goes well. The Hull Plate rivet detail work very time consuming,but the overall effect looking good.I hope to have that stage done over the summer.
Type VII-C Sub will be next and as per our past E-mails,I am purchasing the aftermarket details for that portion of the total diorama.
P.S. Those Archer decals look great. Woody was very helpful.
Take care and stay well.
Jeff

[Siara]

Glenn- if you need the primer that covers anything from resin to PE, and does not chip- use the Citadel Chaos Black Primer.
It is the stuff thet they use in the Games Workshop dioramas to prime their figures, and tanks. Top stuff!!

[GlennCauley]

Glenn- if you need the primer that covers anything from resin to PE, and does not chip- use the Citadel Chaos Black Primer.
It is the stuff thet they use in the Games Workshop dioramas to prime their figures, and tanks. Top stuff!!

Oooooohhh okay!   I'll check with my LHS on the way home to see if they have any.

Thanks! 

[Rokket]

Mr Surfacer - I use for touchups and light puttying, but a mate has used very successfully for priming, he's happy, airbrushes smooth and thin and bites. Pretty smely and laquer thinner/acetone are best for cleanup, but...

[GlennCauley]

I started to replace the lost rivets on the bow yesterday.

I can honestly say that all the time & effort spent on creating the Archer Surface Detail Set for the U-boat was well worth it!
Wow... so easy to replace the rivets.   

1. Determine the area where you are going to put the new row of rivets.
2. Look on the layout diagram to determine which "rivet group" to apply.
3. Measure the length of the rivet row that you need.
4. Cut out the appropriate length of rivets from the appropriate "rivet group" on the decal sheet.
5. Apply the rivet row like a regular waterslide decal.

[Siara]

Fantastic rivets Glenn. More pictures please.

[NZSnowman]

Great picture & the rivets do look fantastic

[vonbulowfla]

glen ' great job with the transfers .they work !

[GlennCauley]

I have updated my build site at:
http://www.travel-net.com/~gcauley/U673

Go to the "Rivets" page.

Probably one of the coolest "special patterns" included in the set is the 1-piece pattern for the forward edge of the bow... check it out!
 

[vonbulowfla]

glen ' i just checked out the pattern you were talking about with the new transfers .niceeeeeeeeeeeeeeee. how do those little rascals come off the sheet with the micro sol as opposed to regular water ? they look great!

[GlennCauley]

It was fun trying to apply that bow pattern, given the size and curvature.  You have to cut the decals very close to the rivets to minimize the amount of decal film.

I dip the decal in lukewarm water for about 5-8sec to loosen the glue, then put it on piece of tissue to absorb excess water.  After that, I apply a fairly heavy amount of Micro-Set to the area where the decal will go.  It acts as a wetting agent so the decal will not stick right away... I don't use Micro-Set to further loosen the decal on the backing paper but rather it is fairly loose by then just from the water. I'll use a paintbrush or tweezer tip to move the decal onto the model.  With the Micro-Set on the model, I have several minutes to move the decal into place. When the decal is in place, I use a tissue to wick away the excess Micro-Set.  If I find that I can see excess decal film, I'll wet the decal with Micro-Sol to dissolve it more.

Not sure if this rant answered your question?   

[GlennCauley]

Call me stupid, but I tore apart the bullnose out of my U-673. (The forward upper tip of the bow.)  This after the nose was all completed, filled, and primed.  I had a piece of brass tubing CA'd through the plastic hull, so removing it was... fun.  I ended up cracking the top part of the deck at the nose.  Arrggghhhh!  Of well, a quick application of epoxy putty gave me a fresh surface to start again.

I just wasn't happy with the bullnose I made... the inlet is still too small.


After looking at my Type VIIC "Warship Pictorial" book again, I found a few *excellent* pictures of the bullnose inlets (esp. on page 34).  I'll be reconstructing the bullnose this week, using a much larger inlet depicted in the photos. 

The bullnose inlet on the stock VIIC kit is about 1/4 the size it should be, and is too far back from the tip of the nose.

[vonbulowfla]

yes it did glen thanks for the info.i also know about cracking that revell plastic but with a litte work it comes out ok.